Test - G27 LEDs mod

https://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=68510

The recent news in LFS development made me dust off my DFGT and I'm really enjoying it again (though I'm a mostly louzy driver), as many other old-days pilots do and express in other threads these days.

Coming to my question: DFGT is a cheap wheel, we all know, and mine shows (and it always did) a nasty center play which is a real PITA.
With the wheel centered and pointing ahead, while driving on a long straigth, every time I turn few degrees left or right, there's always that little delay in response as if the internal gears were kind of "loose", or whatever...
I can also "mechanically" feel it in my hands: there's that tiny little spot where the wheel turns (just very few degrees), but without generating any output. Then it "engages" again and the car turns. It's not a smooth way of changing direction.
I'm trying to explain the physical feeling. In the end it's just a friggin'center play issue.

With "soapy" cars, as the RAC, this makes things harder than they already are.

I already opened the wheel few years ago, but I couldn't understand where to look at to get rid of it, if at all possible.

So, is it possible to fix it DIY?

Otherwise which brand/model should I get for a decent upgrade?
Is a G27 "enough", or does it show strange issues like this?

Fanatec? Thrustmaster?

Thanks a lot.

Last edited by Ripley, Tue 12 Aug 2014, 11:17.

Quote from Vain :

How about a Road Sport Nostalgia Cup?

Nice to see you around still.

Vain

You too mate

Think I need to drag that FZ5 out of retirement, lots of cobwebs on it!!!!

Think I've still got a G27 somewhere in the loft..............

Quote from Vain :

Hello everyone.

With the recent announcements about the Westhill update my interest in LFS has picked up again. Last week, after 6 years of not playing LFS, I finally got my old G25 from the basement and plugged it in. If any of you readers are thinking about doing the same, here's my verdict:

It's awesome.

Somehow over the years I completely forgot that LFS is still 99% distilled fun. I got back into it within hours and am enjoying myself a lot. I signed up for the Torsdagsrace and had loads of fun at the event.

So again, if any of your are thinking about going back online, do it. It's the same fun it ever was.
Share your story if you decide(d) to come back, too.

Vain

Did the same 3 weeks ago. Its a blast. Unfortunately there was no G25 in the basement anymore so I had to get the G27

Quote from audimasta :

Its on the agenda Will hopefully get my seat and wheel up and running during the week.

Cool, thinking about this myself. Though I need to buy a new wheel first :eclipsee_
Guess it It`l be G27 unless theres something better at a similar price.

I try to use most of the time the right amount of degrees that belong to the car as well. Although your speed will most probably decrease a little.


I think there is some other aspect involved to which setting is right. I see you are using a DFGT which is the same as the DFP I believe just a little upgraded looks, but single engined.

I have driven with a G27 as well and imo it's much easier to drive a G27 on high degrees than a DFP or perhaps DFGT as well.

I use a DFp still which is pretty worn out. But I think the feedback that you get and the speed of which you get that through the wheel and FFB in the G27, is much more precise and allows you to respond quicker.

My wheel getting close to end of life though.. maybe its not comparable.. but i think the wheel does make a difference on this one.

I've tried LFS with DK1+G27 yesterday. 10 out of 10, nearly puked

No but seriously, before I got really sick, I've menaged do play for like 10 minutes. Scale seemed quite accurate, I was able to read most of the text despite DK1's low resolution and the floating HUD was nice.

I was driving FXR so I set my G27 to 540 degree in the profiler and in the game. It felt like I was looking at my own hands, it actually felt weird when I took my hands off of the stering wheel but in the game they stayed on the wheel. In VR having your virtual body really helps the immersion. I think that a proper steering wheel is mandatory, if you want to play LFS with the Rift.

I hope that the VR sickness will eventually go away. My brain just can't comprehend how can it be that I'm taking corners at 200km/h and yet I can't feel any G forces.

Some people report that DK1 was making them sick, but with DK2 they feel fine:
http://www.reddit.com/r/oculus ... ery_vr_sick_dk2_does_not/

LFS is back in the top 5 at Oculus Share. There is some people asking for DK2 implementation, maybe you should write a comment that you are working on it, Scawen.

A G27! finally!
cant wait for it to arrive

Thanks for the reply ACCAkut. I've always been a fan of your H-Shifter/DIY pedal posts and have also started a DIY H-shifter endeavour last year - pending completion. I also have a DFGT but would like to avoid plugging them into it if possible. It would be pretty simple to build an adapter to interface the different pinouts. The problem would be with the clutch which would still require some sort of interface itself. If only the rotary dial on the wheel was a pot...

I was wondering if there was a way of physically modifying the G27 pedal stops. That way, I could get 10% more pot travel and the remaining 10% of the axis remaining.

EDIT: Regarding the wiring diagram, I noticed that it says 10-100kOhm. Is that referring to the pot range? :S getting anywhere from 0.9 and 3.7 kOhms from pole to ground across the range. Weird enough, if I measure the resistance across the entire pot (between the +5V and ground), I get 3.4 kOhms. Huh?

Probably gonna go the DXTweak or DFGT route. I think it's just gonna be a lot easier.

Last edited by GenesisX, Tue 29 Jul 2014, 00:19.

DXTweak works for me (using Logitech G27)

Hi Scawen,

first of all thanks for the great updates coming, I dont care if its capitalist reasons behind it or not.

I also had an increase from 60fps to 80fps. But more importantly, I felt that higher ingame AA values are more easily achieved with less negative FPS impact. Might be illusion though.

With Red-Cyan 3D mode, frames drop to 35 per second. But thats expected, right?

I am on a i3 with HD4000 Intel graphics on windows 8.1 and 1920*1080.

Keep it up please. I think like for many other people, all this made me come back. I actually bought a G27 again and I am racing with my media PC in the living room !

There is no vibration as such on the G27, or LFS for that matter; it's all FFB.

And no, it's not possible to disable some sources of FFB in LFS, because it's all simulated based on forces in the steering rack.

The best way to stop what you describe is to not hit anything

Thanks Toki (for the promo code), i guess i just came back to iR.
And i just bought a cockpit for my G27, things gonna get fun...

I recently acquired a set of G27 pedals (without the G27) and am looking at wiring the pots to a joystick PCB. If possible, I want to avoid purchasing an interfacing board like Leo Bodnar.

The PCB I am looking at using will be pulled from a Logitech Atk 3. G27 pots are rated at 10K ohms, while the original Atk 3 pots were 100K Ohms. Would this cause a problem where I've depressed the brake pedal all the way down, and the Atk 3 only reporting only part of the brake pedal being pressed down?

Quote from Whiskey :

Maybe if someone provided him with the source code required to make them work he would put it into the game without hesitation, but I wouldn't expect him bodering with it other way.

There already is open source variant : G27 LEDs mod

Back when the G27 came out, Scawen contacted Logitech and they told him to go figure by himself how the LEDs worked. He told us that the SDK was awful and he didn't wanted to lose time decyphering it.

I guess that is still his opinion, mainly because having Fanaleds installed help a lot in many games so native support is not that important.

Maybe if someone provided him with the source code required to make them work he would put it into the game without hesitation, but I wouldn't expect him bodering with it other way.

Its a bug in LFS, not a hardware problem on H-shifters, infact it will never happen while using H-shifter. And THE WIZARD DK is keyboard driver and therefore cannot have any problems with that joystick G25/G27 shifter.

It is very easily reproducable in single player. Turn autogears on, and while autogears are shifting for example from 4th to 5th press PAUSE so that you catch neutral gear on dashboard. Hold shift up (or down), resume gameplay, it will shift to 1st.
Problem is that LFS should ignore user input while autoshifting gears, or it should shift directly 4th to 5th. Right now it shifts 4th->neutral->5th, so basically if you press either shift up or shift down during neutral it will end up in unwanted gear.

Hello. It has come to my attention that the only way to make your, for example, Logitech G27 RPM gauge LED lights to work, you have to install some extra plugins to make it work. I was wondering, is there any chance that you could implement this so it works by default to avoid installing any extra plugins?

I hope you understood my idea, thank you.

Quote from THE WIZARD DK :

so how about that gearbox issue aswell as it seems to get worse for me going from 5th or other to reverse by itself... im sure im not the only one having this issue. i spoke to a guy yesterday with wheel, who has that problem aswell..

can it be fixed soon?

Sounds like the infamous "Crap Logitech Hardware Bug" that's been causing problems with G25s and G27s for years now.


In all seriousness, what you describe sounds exactly like the problems the G25/G27 shifter has, caused by worn and/or dirty components (some parts are very poorly designed).
I personally have never heard of any shifting issues unique to LFS.

These are all Great Ideas! Im actually Probably going to get the Logitech G27 for my first wheel.

Thank you all, and Happy racing!

I might be able to get the wheel around Christmas.

Quote from legoflamb :

The logitech G27 is 299.99 USD so for $50 more you can afford that.

The Fanatec Forza motorsport CSR is 249.95 USD This one is compatible with xb 360, ps 3, and pc.

Also I recommend getting a wheel that at least has a clutch pedal. you'll want a clutch pedal soon after getting a wheel without one.

Another question is what platform are you primarily using PC, PS 3/4, xbox 360/one? The answer to that one will effect that wheels are available to you.

In my personal opinion, as somebody who's had a G27, a Fanatec GT3RS v2, a DFGT, a Ferrari Experience GT and started with a Saitek R220...

Go for the G27, the Fanatecs I've used never really worked properly with LFS or rFactor for some reason-The logitech system works a lot better, and the G27 is the best wheel for that kind of budget in my own opinion.

Save a bit more, get a G27-the $50 is worth it.

The logitech G27 is 299.99 USD so for $50 more you can afford that.

The Fanatec Forza motorsport CSR is 249.95 USD This one is compatible with xb 360, ps 3, and pc.

Also I recommend getting a wheel that at least has a clutch pedal. you'll want a clutch pedal soon after getting a wheel without one.

Another question is what platform are you primarily using PC, PS 3/4, xbox 360/one? The answer to that one will effect that wheels are available to you.

Last edited by legoflamb, Mon 21 Jul 2014, 04:45.

Im new at "true simulated racing" and ever since I've Played my first realistic racing game (Forza Motorsport 4). Ever since, I've always wanted to Get one of those Race wheels, like the Logitech G27. But, I don't have a lot of money.

What kinds of Racing wheels do you recommend to a semi-beginner like me?

Here's my FreePIE + vJoy script for mouse steering. It was initially made to mimic the LFS style of mouse steering in other racing games, and the axes are therefor mapped to the axes which the default G27 profile had in the games I tested.

It isn't very elegant because I ran into scoping problems as soon as I tried to solve this using functions and classes/objects.

The script features:

• Easy axis inversion controls
  
• LFS style sensitivity center reduction for mouse steering
  
• Timer based ignition cut so you don't manually cut the ignition for longer than necessary by holding down the shift up key
  
• Throttle blip that can be controlled by how long you hold down the shift down key
  
• Independent rate controls for increasing and decreasing throttle, brakes and clutch
  
• Addition rate controls for increasing and decreasing throttle and clutch during ignition cut and throttle blip events
  

Last edited by Skagen, Fri 18 Jul 2014, 18:47.

Quote from troy :

I'm also one of the 540° rotation users, Niels Heusinkveld did a very good video explaining why 900° rotation with the G25/27 FFB motors is not the preferred thing to do. I can't find it right now, just an earlier one without him commenting over the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XgQm_fITok If somebody still knows where the other one is post it!

But in a nutshell the FFB motor is just not fast enough to cope with what is expected from him at 900° or 720° he mentions (in the video I can't find anymore) that the first degree of rotation that does what it's supposed to do is 540°, thats why I went there back in the days.

Ohh interesting Troy, as I felt that when I upgraded from Momo to G27 it wasn't as responsive as the momo, and this would explain why.


So in your profile you have 540 set, and in game?


Fordie