Its been that long since iv been on LFS, iv had to make a new account. But I first joined around 2009 - my best memories where getting my logitech G25 wheel and H shifter, and doing my cop training to become a cop on multiplayer! Oh the good old days. Iv recently upgraded my PC, so Its only right I go ahead and by myself another wheel, which will have to be the logitech G27 this time I think. Can't wait to get back behind the wheel online. See you all there!

I have a old PC that can't be upgraded to Windows 11 and I am thinking of installing Linux on it.
I haven't decided on a distribution (distro) and I am open to any recommendation.
My main questions are about performance and compatibility with the Logitech G27 steering wheel.

Last edited by MorePain, Wed 7 May 2025, 11:52.

Hi everyone. First time I saw LFS (back in 2003?) it was a demo version from some magazine CD attached to it's cover. Two cars, one track and mouse control. Maybe that time I was hooked to simracing in general. The next was iRacing in about 10 years or something. This time with a steering wheel, H-shifter and pedals (Logitech G27). I learned heel-and-toe and other cool things. I even won a season in Mustangs once. Then it was another long break and now I'm getting back to simracing again. My G27 is still alive and works perfectly. I was looking for the mods for AC and found someone mentioned LFS. Memory unlocked, I'm here I'm about to buy S3 on the weekend and start driving. The car mods are really cool. I hope the track mods will be also a case someday.

I unplugged the G27 so only the MOZA R3 is plugged in, but still I don't get any bump stops.

I was looking at that and yes it raised an eyebrow....

Try disconnecting the pedals(which I am assuming is the G27) and have the wheel recognised as the only controller(wheel), then after confirming the end stops works, connect the pedals.

Somehow the wheel is being recognised as a first person controller...

Okay, then something must be wrongly configured on my end and it's probably not a bug. Thanks, I will have another look. I have connected both my G27 and the Moza right now, maybe that could cause the issue?

When I set the wheel rotation manually in Moza Pit House software, it works perfectly as you describe. But I want LFS to automatically set the rotation for each car so I don't have to jump into MPH and adjust the rotation manually every time I change the car.

The wheel turn compensation set to 1.00 (max) makes sure the physical wheel turn always matches the in-car steering wheel, provided that the max is set to at the actual max angle or more.

Here's an exaplantion from Scawen. Point 1) applies in my case:

Quote from Scawen :

It actually isn't very complicated. Wheel turn compensation (which is recommended to be set to max) does two different things depending on if the game controller wheel turns more or less than the in-game car wheel.

1) Game controller wheel can turn more than the simulated car steering wheel:

Perfect match is possible.
Game controller wheel stops turning (a 'stop force' is applied) when simulated car steering wheel reaches limits.

2) Game controller wheel can not turn as much as the simulated car steering wheel:

Perfect match is not possible.
Non-linear approach is implemented.
Steering wheel turn amount matches in the middle, but simulated car wheel turns more as you increase the steering angle.

NOTE: This relies on the "Wheel turn" setting in Options - Controls matching your controller wheel turn degrees. E.g. if your game controller turns 900 degrees, then "Wheel turn" must be set to 900.

This worked well with my G27 - I could feel a bump stop when I reached the maximum lock angle of the given car.

For demonstration, here's a comparison of me turning the G27 wheel past its full lock and then the same with the MOZA R3. Pay attention to the FFB graph at the bottom right:

Last edited by Flame CZE, Wed 19 Feb 2025, 12:37.

I've upgraded from a Logitech G27 to a MOZA R3 wheel base and I found that I don't get the FFB stop in LFS anymore.

My settings are still the same as recommended:
- Wheel turn set to 1080° in the wheel software as well as in LFS
- Wheel turn compensation: 1.00

When I turn the wheel past the car's natural wheel rotation, there's no FFB stop at all.

I don't know if it's a bug in LFS or somewhere in the MOZA wheel's software.

Last edited by Flame CZE, Wed 19 Feb 2025, 00:28.

Hello

Since I started driving with my new Moza steering wheel, I've noticed that I have to (should) adjust the force feedback strength depending on the vehicle in order to prevent clipping. And yes, that was actually the case with the Logitech G27 too.

I haven't found any information in the insim.txt that would allow me to read or even set the force feedback value. And yes, you can set an FF value using the /ff command, but first I want to know - from a program perspective - what is currently set/adjusted in order to be able to save this information.

My goal would be to be able to automatically set a previously used/saved value depending on the vehicle selected, without having to manually make this adjustment every time I change vehicles. I would also have to manually note down the current setting somewhere in order to set this setting again in the same way.

Are there already Insim packages for this that I just haven't discovered yet?

Quote from Gabkicks :

The turtle Beach is $399 in USA

In Switzerland it costs around 530 CHF!

For me, the Moza R12 is the better but also more expensive choice. The steering wheel should now last as long as the G27! (10+ years)

In the meantime, I was able to try out the Moza R5. Compared to the G27, it's in a different league (at least for my taste). The driving experience is much more intense than with the old G27! The many setting options compared to the G27 are challenging, but it's also fun to find out what effects they have.

It really depends on what you're looking for in a wheel to be fair. If you feel like you have an enjoyable and a fast experience with your G27 then it wouldn't probably atleast hurt to wait until the base level direct drives get around to the same price range. You can go fast with this wheel, but it lacks a lot of information in comparison to these direct drive sets which might even have load cell brake pedal bundled.

Logitech's stock brake pedal in 25/27 is basically linear which can be fixed by various assortment of mods such as stiffer springs or maybe even a foam bit to make it feel more like you are adjusting your braking with pressure instead of pedal travel. I personally have a separate USB adapter and a GT/rally brake pedal mod by 3Drap (https://www.3drap.it/product/brake-pedal-mod-formula-logitech-g25-g27/). It took about a month or two to get used to properly but it's a clear difference over the stock setup. The USB adapter for pedals make the axis more clear(better "resolution") over the original connection through the wheel.

Though if you can afford anything better and want to spend time simracing then it's definitely better to get a direct drive and a load cell brake over logitech. There is always a ~3-5° deadzone in the force feedback with this wheel at the dead center because Logitech argued the motors would be fighting each other if it's any less. And since load cells are pressure sensitive this seems the best choice for brakes in simulation environment.

I've been personally looking at Moza DD R9 wheel base, been hearing it's the most "budget/longevity" solution in terms of wheel base but i'm uncertain which pedals i would like to pair with them, and in the start i might be pairing my logitech pedals with it because i have too many other things i need to throw money at.

EDIT: i forgot to also add that the more force your wheel can produce, the less clipping it would have. at the forces i have with my G27 they would be clipping way before the peak forces, in every racing sim, so you might have more information just because the forces given by the sim aren't enough to cause said clipping.

Last edited by nikopdr, Fri 8 Nov 2024, 03:37.

Hello

Probably a stupid question, but what is the point of an expensive DirectDrive steering wheel and the load cell technology for the brakes?

I drive decent times with my old-fashioned G27. Does it make sense to switch to another product (apart from the fact that the available drivers are ancient). I am currently not using 100% of the available force feedback steering wheel strength (which should be around 3nm at most). So what do I get out of it if the future steering wheel is 2-3x as strong (nm)? I am not the youngest anymore and I don't want to put unnecessary strain on my wrists.

And yes, so far the best I can get is a G27! I haven't had the chance to try out another steering wheel yet. The price of the "better" steering wheels also puts me off. Because I don't see any added value (apart from the driver issue) in such an investment.

So far I have looked at the technical data of the following steering wheels:
- Logitech G Pro Wheel & Pedals
- Turtle Beach Veolocity One Race
- Moza R5 Set

To be honest, I am a bit overwhelmed by the selection of other products!

Now I'll probably be inundated with information and feedback...

Last edited by Pasci, Mon 4 Nov 2024, 13:53.

Hello

I'm working on a mod for the G27 steering wheel to make it easier to drive motorcycles in LFS (and of course other simulations) without having to make a big investment. Of course, this doesn't make driving motorcycles more realistic, but it does make it easier. Previous versions/attempts have been a lot of fun.

The only component that was purchased is the dark gray plastic tube that serves as the handlebar.

The following components are from the 3D printer:
- The mount on the steering wheel (2x including clips) (PLA)
- The handles (TPU)
- The gear extensions (PLA)

The 3D objects (STL) will probably be made available on thingiverse.com later. I'll keep you updated. In any case, I'm looking forward to your feedback.

By the way: The pictures no longer represent the current "development status". Adjustments/improvements have already been made.





A video demo of what it will actually look like will follow as soon as possible.

In the meantime: Have a nice weekend

Last edited by Pasci, Mon 7 Oct 2024, 15:09. Reason : images inserted in the text

Hello everyone, a problem that I did not have in version 0.6n from memory, I just installed LFS to test if I continue the adventure towards S2, but for the moment, problems: with the F1 problem changing gears sequential gearbox, from 1 to 3 they go well, for 4 and 5 I have to release the accelerator a little, and for 6 it is quite difficult to pass.
I play with a Logitech G27.
If anyone has an idea where this can come from...

t mit deiner Kamera übersetzen
Hi guys, I have a question about the S3 0.7E. I drive with a Fanatec DD1. Now the problem is when I want to initiate a drift. The steering wheel hurls with brutality from left to right. I also have the feeling that the FFB is laggy and it sets In the middle of steering, I only have the problem in LFS.
I last played the game 10 years ago with a G27 and everything worked without any problems. I hope you can help me...

The pictures are enough (atleast for me) to see the faulty part (pictures 11, 12), that usually is the culprit in any logitech shifter related issue. In most cases a cleaning and checking the wire connections to the pot should be enough, i had a wire broken off on my old G25 shifter which worked until i sold it (unfortunately though i bought mine for 210 euro and got 150 euro out of it ). From what i've heard these new shifters are somehow worse than G27, and from my experience G27 shifter is a lot sturdier than 25's due to less moving internal parts. Your shifter is still reading all the gears normally but disengaging one of them so maybe it might go away with a proper clean and checking/securing wiring.

It's not just less quality though but the shifter sold separately is probably one of the dumbest ideas Logitech came up with in my opinion, whilst keeping the wheel/pedal set at around the same prices as 27 were new. I dunno the idea behind it but the wheel sets should come with a shifter and perhaps could be sold separately alongside and maybe with a direct usb connection if people want a cheap shifter to accompany some better wheels. Oh well, can't do anything about it to be fair

I'm still rocking with the G27 as well. Funny thing is that the wheel unit failed on me so i bought another one as a spare but i've been using the pedals and shifter from the first one because they just work

Last edited by nikopdr, Tue 2 Apr 2024, 11:35.

Thanks for answering.

Quote from Gutholz :

I am not aware of any software to calibrate the shifter.
But here is a manual on how to open the G27 Shifter:
https://de.ifixit.com/Anleitung/Logitech+G27+Potentiometer+der+Schaltung+tauschen/42378
Check the potentiometer, whether is has become loose or dirty.

Will probably do this once I find leisure.

Quote :

The text is german but there are many pictures.

Das ist vielleicht gut so... also, dass da Bilder sind.

Quote :

Shifting into neutral does not strictly require clutch.

Yeah, as a matter of fact not at all. I (re-)found that out yesterday. I thought it'd only pop out without any load, but it does instantly when pulling the stick into neutral position. That's kind of suboptimal programming, I have to say. IRL you'd have to pull like an ass to get it out of gear under load.

As for DxTweak, got that. It only handles the axes.


A little Logitech G anecdote/rant:

I started out with a G25. Rock solid, no fancy shtuff on the wheel. Shifter was included and had a sequencial-mode. Sold it for - wait for it - more than I bought it new when I hardly ever used it anymore.

Then I bought another one. "Pre-owned". Rock solid, gave me no problems. Sold that again at no loss.
At one point, I bought a used G27 (because there was no 25 around). That one had been pre-owned by a kid, obviously. From a hygienic point of view it was in a questionable condition, and the shifter looked beaten up. But it worked.

Then the wheel started to stay away from work occasionally: You plugged it in and sometimes, nothing happened. I opened it up, saw nothing I could do, put it back together and - miracle - there was no further refusal of work... until one day it died after some spastic cramps.

So finally I bought a brandnew G923, which has no shifter. I could use the G27 shifter, that isn't really supported by the G923, with a tiny workaround and at the expense of the shifter's buttons, though. One day, however, I thought I shouldn't be such a cheapskate and ordered the driving force shifter... which is obviously prone to this faulty behavior, so I'm probably going back to the beaten up G27-shifter and the workaround.

Logitech gave us less and less quality for the same price. But maybe that's ok because we have more buttons now.

I am not aware of any software to calibrate the shifter.
But here is a manual on how to open the G27 Shifter:
https://de.ifixit.com/Anleitung/Logitech+G27+Potentiometer+der+Schaltung+tauschen/42378
Check the potentiometer, whether is has become loose or dirty.
The text is german but there are many pictures. I think the G923 shifter is similar.

Shifting into neutral does not strictly require clutch.

The only maybe relevant tool I know of is Dxtweak.
It is popular for tweaking game controllers, setting deadzones etc. No idea if it is useful for this particular problem.

Good afternoon everyone. I was about to play a little and my surprise was my g27 does not detect accelerator, brake and clutch on the game screen (I have the pedal view on).
Updated drivers, updated game, updated logitech profiler, I've tried everything and it still doesn't work. g27 has Good power when connecting usb it does the 2 turns and everything is ok. I leave some photos and I hope anyone can help?. the direction, shifter buttons, cams and the other buttons if I have an answer. .Here I leave some photos of my configuration.
https://ibb.co/0pNC6FK
https://ibb.co/m6JVTs6
https://ibb.co/n7HZNP8

I went from mouse to Logitech Momo (240°) to G27 and had similar problems to adjust. Always it seemed too slow to steer, at first.
With the G27 I used what degrees whatever numbers it showed in pit menu, it is different between cars.
I downloaded some "Figure 8" layout with cones from the forum and just slowly drove around that to get used to the feel. That seemed to help. Eventually I noticed that actually it was not necessary to turn the wheel quite as fast and much as I thought. Afterall in a real car one can not go lock-to-lock in one second either.

Also try with default cars first. Some mod cars have bit weird FFB because their suspensions are whacky.

Hi

I used an angle of 400° on the G27

No, it was not fanaleds, it's too complex for the lfs. I was something like G27 leds program, but I can check later.

Yes, the g25 and g27 comment that they are ultra durable, I have friends who have had the g29 last 2 days, they have changed it up to 2 times under warranty and in the end, fed up, they have returned it, that is my fear, it seems that the new steering wheels They are more delicate, like the t150, after 4 days they get some looseness that is not even half normal, yes, the ex is similar to the momo, but the momo has 270º and the ex has 180º

The bad thing is that finding units in good condition ask for 150 euros, it is not worth paying that for a steering wheel so old that it can break at any time, like the logitech driving force pro already with 900º but they ask between 75 to 100 euros, more Likewise, you don't deserve to pay 100 euros for something that can break at any moment because it is 20 years old.

The truth is that Logitech should bring to the market some steering wheel with 900º rotation, even if it is with the old technology but at a competitive price, it would take over the market for first-price steering wheels, a g29 costs around 300 euros, which is a g25 -27 updated.

The main advantage of better/newer wheels is in my opinion that they have more rotation. That feels much more realistic.
My first FFB wheel was a Logitech Momo (somewhat comperable to Driving Force EX?), then Logitech G27.
Both still work okay, never had to repair anything.
The G27 feels much more robust. Especially the pedals are much better, more travel range and just overall better quality.
The Fanatec wheel of a friend feels even better. I think with wheels it also depends a bit on luck, like with any hardware. One lose part can "break" it but sometimes it is a relatively easy fix. (like glue in a loose potiometer)

Quote from rane_nbg :

There is indeed the most time and organization involved for league and other events, however, those are at best on a 1 week basis. There you will see only the best and most dedicated LFS drivers and for a new racer, there is not much fun, even if one manages somehow to get passed the qualifying session.

I think it depends, often there are some slower and more casual drivers at the end of the grid.
Why would qualifying be a problem? Some events require minimum laptime (like 107% rule in F1) but that is rare. Just ask in chat or forum for a setup, practice a bit and be aware of cars around you. I would not overthink it.