Hi, on the G27 the shift lights does not work on LFS. There was a software made to make it work on LFS, more info can be found on this thread.

Although I'm not sure if the G29 LEDs are supported by LFS or if the software on the above thread works with your wheel (but I think it would).

I have a G27 Shifter connected via a USB adapter, rather than a Logitech wheel. LFS does show it as one of my controllers, but when I go to assign shifter gears, it only has "Keyboard" and "Wheel Buttons" and if i click on a gear slot to assign a wheel button, it does not register the shifter going into any gears.

Are there any config tweaks for letting me assign the gears outside the game, via files or something, since LFS does seem to recognize the device?

So, not much is different between the G29 and G920, apart from console and buttons. Have you set up the G Hub? like downloaded it, installed it, setup the wheel to it, etc.

If you have, then have you checked your controls ingame to see if your paddles and shifter are setup correctly?

I run a G27, so Im not that fluent in the 29 series, but I know my FFB deactivstes when I enter the menu while driving.

I know this is not the reply you are waiting for, but...

F1 Challenge 99-02 (for PC) works like a charm with G27. 900º degrees and 3 pedal support out of the box. A newer version of the game you have with more seasons available to play through.

Do this ones abit strange.
So I bought f1 2001 for PS2 so I could drive old tracks, but it doesn't register that my Logitech G27 is connected, iv tried a few other games and it works fine.
Please weight something if anyone knows how to fix this.
Thanks.

LFS Name: philipfridstrom ingame nickname Kalibern
Country: sweden
Preferred Number: any but if i have to chose 69
License: s3
Drift Experience: about 2-4 years
Controller: Logitech g27
Availability: Everyday
TimeZone: GMT+2

LFS Name: philipfridstrom Ingame Nickname Kalibern
Country: Sweden
Preferred Number: any but if i have to chose 69
License: s3
Drift Experience: abot 2-3-4 years almost
Controller: g27
Availability: everyday
TimeZone: GMT+2

Last edited by philipfridstrom, Mon 14 Oct 2019, 09:08.

I sent the gearbox for warranty in the day after I picked it up, the store had no more stock... However they totally said even if Logitech doesn't want to give other or fix, as soon as they get new stock they will instantly give me a new one and I won't even need to wait for the warranty one (that is if they get them sooner in stock)...

Hope when I get the 2nd gearbox replacement all works well...

And about the noise, I see on youtube ppl claiming they are already on like the 2nd or 3rd logitech G29 replacement and they all start to make that noise almost in no time.

But I mailed logitech and they said its not normal and to send my G29 to warranty, but I won't since I just see everyone having the same exact problem...

I want is to BE able to get full 100% brake pedal range using my G25 pedals on G29, after like 50% pressed the brake value is already at 100%, probably G29 just crapped down on the brake pedal values . (I WOULD BE HAPPY IF ANYONE COULD TELL ME HOW TO ACTUALLY GET THE FULL BRAKE PEDAL RANGE TO BE READ ON THE G29).


ps : I'm already starting to wish I would have waited for a Thrustmaster promotion instead, because G29 have only been a big downgrade for me compared to my old G25 (better FFB, simpler and better PC software, actually fully working H-shifter with sequential option, no strange noises, just bigger noise when turning because of the direct gears instead of the helical ones that started with G27), also its a nightmare to use any button as Handbrake while I could use G25 central shifter buttons for handbrake way easier or use sequential shifter almost as a real handbrake and the biggest disappointment is really G25 had almost 100% brake pedal full range compared to around 50% pedal range read on the G29, ABS must be always on at 100% on any sim or its impossible...

Last edited by guily6669, Tue 13 Aug 2019, 03:40.

Quote :

But please do tell me if not, because it's hard to know and these default settings involve some guessing! It seemed fine on my G27 but I haven't tested on other wheels.

So G27 users don't need to change the (default) values, because you provide at least for this wheel the right settings, correct?

Thanks for that fix/improvment - Will try it this evening.

BTW: A (short) progress report would be nice. ;-) I hope everything goes as expected.

I think so, yes, and I think that should feel a bit more direct and immediate than previous versions. But please do tell me if not, because it's hard to know and these default settings involve some guessing! It seemed fine on my G27 but I haven't tested on other wheels.

I hear that the G27 H shifter at least works on G29, just not the extra buttons...

I also saw someone wiring the G25 H shifter to work on G27, just need to change a few cables, however I would really like is to know if that way would work on G29 too ...

About modding the H-shifter feeling I know about them for a long time since people have been doing it since the G25, but I don't really care that much to improve the feeling, just wished to make my G25 shifter to fully work on the G29 directly without being trough USB with expensive adapters.

Though the pots from my G25 shifter are already a bit bad for a damn long time and it skips gears some times or change to a different one, Logitech always use cheap garbage pots in it .

Hi again,

I have the G29 for a few days, but only tested yesterday for like 2 or 3 hours...

WHAT AN AWFUL wheel, FFB works much worse than G25, the software sucks, now it uses a generic all-in-one logitech crap of more than 300MB to install and brings crap for screens, keyboards, mouses (logitech is getting stupid, they could have made a wheel only software without the other garbageware that only uses more ram and space and more processes on my windows)...

Almost no settings at all for the wheel, nothing to test it like we used to have on G25\G27 (its read on windows devices just as a generic controller).

I'm using Logitech G25 pedals and the wheel only reads up to like ~75% of the pedal and the rest is always at 100% and can't calibrate it to use the full pedal, this is beyond bad, it only travel very little, now any slight brake it brakes a lot and just a bit more its already at full 100% braking power almost at half pedal...

And after like 1 hour of smooth Assetto Corsa with almost lifeless FFB and not even at 100%, now when turning to the left with or without power on the wheel its making a metallic whine sound (probably gonna send to the store to switch for other G29).

ps: From G25 the G29 feels quite cheap and lower quality FFS. Also does anyone know how to convert the G25 H shifter to work on G29???????????????????? (I don't want to buy Leo's adapter or anything via USB, I want to rewire the plug and solder it in a way that would work fine with G29 since G25 shifter at least allow to use it as semi-auto for handbrake or as H-shifter though the pots are already a bit bad, but maybe I can change them for others and glue them some way in place)...

Last edited by guily6669, Mon 8 Jul 2019, 18:58.

I did some practice at Rockingham lake with the mini (UF1) and 2 or 3 races against the ai. This is a very good laser scanned track and all the bumps, the kerbs are there.

With the standard FFB it's difficult to feel them. This simulation is a masterpiece but the track feels flat (perhaps it is my G27)

With the FFB enhancer that little mini come to live and the feel of the bumps and the road surface is great. All is there in a very positive way. It has his flaws and it is not parfect but I think it works.

Feeling the bumps, the tires on the road is a very realistic thing but as I said earlier, in real life, it's not through the wheel that it is communicated to the driver. We are compromising here.

Rockingham is reproduced phenominally in lfs. It is as if I was there. Thanks to Flotch again.

G27 user here too .

LFS lack detailed track surface, that's why you can't get much bumps feeling from your wheel, maybe you need to try rockingham as it's a laser scanned track and maybe it's more detailed than other fictional tracks.

I don't think FFB enhancers of whatever are of any help in this case, realistic FFB come from raw physical data from suspension, tyres and the track surface so any fake canned effect will ruine the realism IMO.

When I drive my real car (and this is true of any racing car, I imagine) I don't feel anything with my wheel. It's through my body that I sense all the bumps, the vibrations ant the road surface. So I think that the right thing for us sim racers in not the ffb in our wheels. It's something like buttkicker or bass shakers.

As the majority of us don't have these, we have to compensate this with our ffb wheels (I have a G27 by the way). With the ffb in lfs, almost all the time, I can't feel those bumps or road surfaces (blackwood).

But by using Juls FFB enhancer (dinput8.dll), I can feel everything in that track (with the xrg) and the driving is much more enjoyable.

So what do you think guys about this enhancer and can the developers integrate it in lfs. Thanks.

Last edited by adirany, Sat 8 Jun 2019, 14:56.

The g27 and g29's are very similar apart from the buttons. My g27 had taken an awful lot of use and abuse

The FFB is good in project cars when using jack spade ffb settings. I am constantly altering in LFS to find a sweet spot for myself

@racon The ferrari 458 italia wheel, if so i think the tension they put using the bungee cord was perfect, my 70 year old dad went back to using one from a g27.

i managed to revive my g27 which at first started to wobble which was an easy fix and a pin falling out and losing my ffb.

I must say my g27 has took some punishment to get to where it was which has persuaded me to go for another as the latter ones released do not look as strong

Sadly no luck

I bought a all metal encoder like the following:


I received it yesterday, tried fixing the wheel today with 0 luck.

I think the light sensors are simply misaligned, but I lost hours moving them to every kind of place and never picked up any wheel movement, even broke 1 leg of the IR emitter, soldered it, its emitting again, but really no way to make it work.

I also tried the encoder wheel on every kind of position, more to the middle, more to the emitter side, more to the receiver side and even at both edges, I also tried painting the encoder metal wheel with a black permanent ink marker and still nothing ...


Now I'm gonna have to wait for a promotion on a new wheel and spend a full year of savings .

Which should I buy, Logitech G29 or Thrustmaster T300?

Both are made to die fast as far as I know G29 still has problems with the hall sensor (just like G25 G27 with the encoder wheels), the motors wear out and get harder and harder to move very fast as they build up crap from the brushes inside, they are basically the same crap as the ones on my G25.

Thrustmaster has a way better motor since brushless which will probably last longer than the rest that will break up fast though the plstic on the motor usually also breaks leaving the good motor unusable, the haul sensor starts to get loose as Thrustmaster don't even know there are better glues on the market...

All I see is that both are still expensive and break very fast and I also still don't know why they keep using pots on the god damn pedals when there is so much more cheap and better technology that they could have used that would last 4 ever, yeah they really want is that they break so we have to keep buying expensive shitty stuff...

Last edited by guily6669, Fri 3 May 2019, 20:43.

Quote from nikopdr :

Is it the 60-slot encoder wheel? If so, they are quite affordable, here's a stainless steel one for 19€ as an example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/273714197286................

Yes I know that part and I already contacted a seller and that part is quite expensive...

19€ for like 10 cents worth of metal...

The problem is the 2 optic sensors got moved from their place a bit and I also don't know if they are working anymore and I need is a way to test them but don't know how to test the 2 sensors (can't test with my encoder wheel because it got all broken and warped all over the place)...

If they are good I would buy that decoder 60 hole wheel. G29 have been in a promotion for 200€ a few time ago, that 10 cent worth of metal part is like almost 1/10th of the price of the whole G29 in last promotion lool.

Sadly now the G29 is around 300€ locally so even if I can't fix my G25 I can't buy a new racing wheel for now as I don't have much money to spend on something that breaks after like 1000 hours or so .

The motors are both working, just the other without the encoder is a bit harder to turn, I fully cleaned it, but didnt fix the problem, I might need to fully open it or change the bearings, but they seem hard to open and I dont see anything while searching on how to open G25/G27 motors.

Last edited by guily6669, Tue 2 Apr 2019, 23:01.

Is it the 60-slot encoder wheel? If so, they are quite affordable, here's a stainless steel one for 19€ as an example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/273714197286

It's possible that the encoder wheel is so broken that the sensor can't decode any input from it, I had to recently help a friend out with his DF GT with similar issues. He ended up buying a G29 though. But problem was similar, after gluing the wheel back together the steering wheel gave no inputs, which is what i guess has happened to you too. It's also possible that the encoder board or its connection to the main circuit board above them are faulty if they have possibly become loose, from what I researched that can be possible too.

I would assume you could read the resistance out of the optical sensor, I am not really that into electronics so I can't give much advice on the subject more than that. there are also 2 versions of G27 and I don't know of the differences what they had apart from different encoder wheel/sensor system. I would consider opening up the motors as a last solution, too.

Last edited by nikopdr, Tue 2 Apr 2019, 20:09.

Hi there,

My encoder wheel is fully broken and warped, I had previously glued it and worked fine. Last week I opened the wheel again and was broken again, I re-glued it, but now it doesn't pick up anything...

The optical sensor also got misaligned and might went bad.

Does anyone know if its too hard to align the optical sensor and how can I check if its working with like a multimeter?

I don't want to spend a lot on a new wheel encoder to then find out the sensor is bad.


Also the other motor without the encoder is a bit harder to turn, I fully deep it in WD40 and used a 9V battery to turn it, the oil got full of black stuff very fast probably from the brushes wearing material inside, then I passed alcohol and used a de-greaser spray on the motor and oiled the bearings, but it still is a bit harder to turn.

Does anyone ever opened a G25/G27 motor, if yes, is it too hard?

Thank You
guily

So I bought a cheap non-hydro handbrake on eBay, and it works in Assetto Corsa, and in the LFS options menu (Sliders bar on the right changes when I move the handbrake) it just won't let me select it. It's slider 0, and when I select it, it says axis 5. I have a G27. Thank you all for the help, just want this to work with LFS!

I tested briefly before going back to work : 40ms forces me to wait a lot when having to switch from reverse to 1st gear or the opposite. At 20ms it is working just fine (for me).
With Logitech G27.

Hey guys! , i buy this wheel for to be able to control the car better in the game but it has not been easy, at the time had no big budget and I bought this because I thought it would be a good choice, I'm having difficulties in settings inside the game, because I think my steering wheel has no programs to configure as the g25 g27 etc ..., then follow my settings in the game (I want to try to do everything the game allows like running, drift, cruise) what configs should I try?

https://imgur.com/N5TTNKb «-- my wheel
https://imgur.com/zvgdTA9 «-- my lfs configs