I don't understand what you mean... What's wrong with current gamepad support? And why you need to throw that much money for a wheel? Good drivers can spend the same ~100€ for Logitech DFGT and still be very competitive,not so good driver won't be competitive with G27,G28 or whatever else is better and costs half k€.
Any DFGT users here, have you figured out the best wheel setings for AC? I just can't seem to find a sweet spot, after a while it feels like a completely different game for no apparent reason, without me chaning anything.
Today i saw some guy recommeding 0 minimum force (for G27 in his case)..
Subjective is fine because force feedback is personal preference. It's just that I don't have my wheel or rig on campus :P I've always liked to take a car out for a spin and see if I'm able to hold a drift and that's always been a fine indicator.
Perhaps, comment on the below.
Is the driver able to "feel" the weight transfer of the vehicle?
Are the forces on the wheel feel dynamic or do they feel like they are just pre-recorded effects?
Setting both EXCLUSIVE and BACKGROUND flags for keyboard or mouse is invalid and DInput will throw an error when you try that. You might therefore want to check that you're trying to modify the cooperative level only on the device you want to use. The handling of these invalid flags is perhaps different on WinXP which is why LFS crashed for you. If it's any help, I did it like this when I wanted to check for a Logitech G27 in my proxied dinput8.dll. BTW, I found out that calling Beep() from a proxy DLL is a crude but effective way to check that the code reaches a certain place
1) An application has to enumerate the devices first so let's take advantage of that and enumerate them along with it
/* Here is where we store the GUIDs of devices that we want to manipulate with later */ extern std::vector<GUID> gl_myG27Instance;
/* Check the device's identity */ if ((inst->guidProduct.Data1 == G27ID) /* || (inst->guidProduct.Data1 == DFPID) */) { /* Check if we already have this device added */ if (gl_myG27Instance.size() > 20) return DIENUM_CONTINUE;
for (std::vector<GUID>::const_iterator cit = gl_myG27Instance.begin(); cit != gl_myG27Instance.end(); cit++) { if (IsEqualCLSID(inst->guidProduct, *cit)) return DIENUM_CONTINUE; }
gl_myG27Instance.push_back(inst->guidInstance); }
return DIENUM_CONTINUE; }
3) OK, now we know the GUIDs that reference the devices we're interested in so let's intercept only those devices */
HRESULT myIDirectInput8::CreateDevice(REFGUID a, LPDIRECTINPUTDEVICE8W *b, LPUNKNOWN c) { extern std::vector<GUID> gl_myG27Instance; std::vector<GUID>::const_iterator cit; for (cit = gl_myG27Instance.begin(); cit < gl_myG27Instance.end(); cit++) { if (IsEqualCLSID(a, *cit)) { /* A G27 (or DFP) found, take control over this device */ // global var extern myIDirectInputDevice8* gl_pmyIDirectInputDevice8Array[];
// we intercept this call and provide our own "fake" Device Object HRESULT hres = m_pIDirectInput8->CreateDevice(a,b,c);
/* * Check for error */
// find free Device slot int i; for (i=0; i<MAXNUMBER_DEVICES; i++) if (gl_pmyIDirectInputDevice8Array[i] == NULL) break;
/* * Should return an error if i == MAXNUMBER_DEVICES */
// Create our own Device object and store it in global pointer // note: the object will delete itself once Ref count is zero (similar to COM objects) gl_pmyIDirectInputDevice8Array[i] = new myIDirectInputDevice8(*b, i, *cit);
// store our pointer (the fake one) for returning it to the calling progam *b = gl_pmyIDirectInputDevice8Array[i];
if (hres == S_OK) LogMessage(L"DI::CreateDevice> Device sucessfully created."); else LogMessage(L"(WARN)DI::CreateDevice> Unable to create device.");
return(hres); } }
/* Not a G27 (or DFP), don't touch this device */ LogMessage(L"DI::CreateDevice> Not a G27, ignoring."); return m_pIDirectInput8->CreateDevice(a, b, c); }
The code above is far from brilliant but it seems to have solved the problem in my G27 LEDs hack.
Last edited by MadCatX, .
Reason : Pointed out two obvious issues in the code of step 3
Hey, I loved to hear this story. You put a smile on my face. Please, be the dad I always dreamed with .
Well, the wheel you are looking for will depend of what you want to use it for (obviously simracing I guess... huh). It's always good to consider that G27 never felt bad, it's good enough for a really good price, and it's decent enough for starting at simracing. Though, Fanatec wheels will feel much better, there's a reason why they are more expensive. I highly recommend them for your use at least, an adult hungry of simracing. They make the big difference with the rest in my opinion. Now, considering your kids, I'd go for something cheap for them, like a G27, or even cheaper, like a Driving Force GT. Comes with a sequential shifter, shift paddles and no clutch. It feels very similar to the G27.
Definitely go for the T300RS, walks all over a G27, I run a T500RS myself and it is great, fast, wheel feels great, it's quiet and the force is way way more accurate and sharp.
You won't find any better wheels for that money. And if you just want to have some fun with public driving on cargame or doing some fun leagues like the Rony's tuesday races or AWD Winter Series it's the best option for you.
And if you will get more into serious Simracing at some point, you will always buy a Thrustmaster T500 or some Fanatec wheel base with different rims etc, a rig and so on.....
But for now the G27 should suit you perfectly (Don't forget there's also the possibility to mod the G27, watch a few youtube vids for that...although I would only do this if it runs out of warranty).
I have been planning to try out drifting in real life, like on a track in like 1-2 years and I wonder if there is big different from LFS? I drifting with G27 with force feedback and things like that. And as I can see on YouTube, the wheel is pretty much the same.
Of course there is more difficult in real life then the game, but it's pretty much the same basics, isn't it?
The kernel in stock Ubuntu 14.04 is 3.13 which is unfortunately one version too old to detect your revision of the G27 correctly. You can use LTWC just to switch the wheel to its native mode and set the range via sysfs. All "smarter" Logitech wheels show themselves as "Logitech Driving Force" (046D:C294) at first and have to be switched to their "native" modes by the driver. The driver in kernel 3.13 doesn't recognize your G27 correctly and leaves it in the compatibility mode, therefore you cannot change the range.
Dell OptiPlex 760 Desktop
Intel Pentium Dual Core E5200 2.5GHz Processor (not great I know)
8GB DDR3 RAM
Nvidia GTX 750 ti (2GB DDR5)
My GPU is a lot better than my CPU.
One thing I've noticed is that I get significantly higher frame rates at 1400x1050 resolution than I get at a LOWER resolution of 1024x768. I'm hoping that the oculus rift DK2 is more reliant of the GPU and that my GPU will do most of the work and not rely on my less than stellar CPU.
I'm not sure if it's relevant but I use a logitech G27 wheel.
What kind of team are you looking for? Drift
Age: 16
Country: Sweden
Preferred Car/Track: XRT
Average Laptime on Your Preferred Car/Track: I'm not racing m8, drifting only. So no laptime.
How Active Are You? Playing at least 1 time per day
What Kind of Control do you use? Logitech G27
Time Zone: GMT +1
What kernel version are you running? Support for this revision of G27 has been available since 3.14. It won't explain the other issues but I can't think of anything that would except that you might be using /dev/input/js instead of /dev/input/event device in games which might give you some unwanted deadzones.
It works almost well : resulting range is not 540 degrees, but something like 810 degrees. Moreover I get about 200 degrees of dead zone, whatever the configuration I set in games.
So I have to play with the driver default range of 270 degrees. Except the range, everything is working well.
Hi LFS world! I just finished building my computer, picked up a G27, and started playing this. It's my first racing sim and so far I love it! It's so addicting!!!
I'll upgrade through the licenses after I play more and get better.
Wow this post is old. But hey I got the game not too long ago, maybe about a week ago. I didn't do the demo, I just jumped right in on the S2 license. Uhm, I mainly have just drifted with my G27. It was the main reason I got the game. However, after reading a writeup on the wiki about tuning basics, I had a bunch of fun and I would like to further better myself in racing. Plus the AI pisses me off so much, so I practice alone.
I have a logitech g27 and I got the game a couple of hours ago and just tried it now, tried the second car with 140hp, tried it around the first track and every time I tried to go side ways I would spin out and crash.
Does anyone have any car mods I can add for more HP.
What tune should I use and how can i properly setup my g27 to go with it, thanks.
Yes, gas/brake would be with the gamepad. Either via the analog-sticks (the little joystick things) or via the shoulderbuttons at the back. If I hold a gamepad in front of my wheel it looks like it might work, but no idea how useful it really is or how comfortable. If one is willing to take the gamepad apart then I could see it working...
The problem with your wheel seems like the problems that can happen to any wheel:
potis/encoders coming loose or breaking in some way.
Here it is explained for logitech pedals but similiar principle in all controllers: http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_e5.html
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I searched a bit through internet and found some things, so a random unsorted list follows:
Basically it seemed to me that the only wheels with analog paddles are eiter:
a) old ones, like your RGT-Force and not sold anymore
b) very expensive high-end stuff
c) something self-made
So maybe an idea to look at other ways instead of analog paddles.
Here someone steers basically with one arm. Maybe that is worth a try? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zczdaGbyTUw
Means you could use the non-steering hand to controll gas/brake in some other way...maybe with a joystick? Or again with a gamepad that you somehow fix to the table, because joystick has both gas/brake on same axis...
A similar problem on G25/G27 is that the 'optical encoder' within the wheel becomes loose and rotates on the shaft instead of remaining fixed as the wheel turns.
There are a lot of videos showing the fix for this. You could open up your wheel and see if it seems to work in the same way.
Also, there is a used RGT on ebay for only £20 here.
Check out NewEgg - I just picked up a G27 for $199 today. They go in and out of stock so check regularly. I have been sitting on the sidelines for a while now using an old Logitech Rumble game pad and decided to take the plunge on a wheel.
It's funny you mention the G27... I recall someone actually mounting the simraceway wheel to the G27, using the G27 for the steering rotaiton and FFB, but the SimRaceway for the rest of the buttons. An expensive solution though unless you could find a G25/G27 that was just the wheel, no pedals + shifter
I will definitely not buy all the content, I just figured out that the max. amount of content (tracks and cars) I'd purchase will be around 110-120 dollars, so that's really ok for me. Also ordered the G27 today, looking forward to do some first races in the Skip to increase my iRating, which is currently at 1557. For MoE I will need 1900 as one guy told me in the iR forums.
Yeah will be difficult to find any team for the upcoming 24 hours at Spa, so if somebody knows a team which needs drivers don't hesitate to contact me
You're right and I already had a G27 so a DFGT would be a big step backwards IMO.
Well honestly at the moment I'm doing a shitty sidejob in the discotheque while getting my A levels. So I don't have a lot of money but I want to get back to racing