jeezus christ - dont you ppl believe in... MOVIES????
Fraps + WindowsMovieMaker + youtube (aka iutubí) are you friends....
Fraps + WindowsMovieMaker + youtube (aka iutubí) are you friends....
Victor, if you werent' so feathery and didnt have a beak, Id kiss you!
Victor: Some suggestions:
Remember spectators dont need to view the race in real-time.
Having a "frame buffer" can be usefull for smoother movement - theres no problem in having spectators have a 500ms delay or something. So you could keep inserting stuff into the buffer so it has time to receive all data from all cars. In the beggining, give 500ms of lag, so the buffer is "filled", and as soon as half the buffer's frames have full data, start playing. If the connection is 100% perfect, thats only a 250ms delay.
If the buffer is full, start playing so that there's no "loss" of frames. With a bit of luck, the frames being played are already full, and when it comes to the first non-complete frames in the buffer, they could have been completed.
Frame: A set of data of all cars, given a X point in time. I.E. for each X point in time, collect all data from all cars, then display it.
You problably already implemente this, OR it cant be implemented due to how LFS's netcode works, or any other billion reasons.
Remember spectators dont need to view the race in real-time.
Having a "frame buffer" can be usefull for smoother movement - theres no problem in having spectators have a 500ms delay or something. So you could keep inserting stuff into the buffer so it has time to receive all data from all cars. In the beggining, give 500ms of lag, so the buffer is "filled", and as soon as half the buffer's frames have full data, start playing. If the connection is 100% perfect, thats only a 250ms delay.
If the buffer is full, start playing so that there's no "loss" of frames. With a bit of luck, the frames being played are already full, and when it comes to the first non-complete frames in the buffer, they could have been completed.
Frame: A set of data of all cars, given a X point in time. I.E. for each X point in time, collect all data from all cars, then display it.
You problably already implemente this, OR it cant be implemented due to how LFS's netcode works, or any other billion reasons.
Oh my, Oh my, oh my! This is great it is actually so great my brain imploded and now i cant type properly and have to type like a moronic script kiddie cause i cant think of anything else than being able to watch races from anywhere anytime and spectating big league races like owrl and the 24h league and omg ty victor i dunno wat to sai kkthxs me lyek bannnnas hmmdonuuuutzzzzz
To pine-fin: Good piece of driving, you held your line, on the inside and very efficiently defended. The other driver could have overtaken you if he had gone wide, and did the normal line, but he insisted on trying for the inside and lost.
to kurent:
If you do that and the opponent is too close, what will happen is you shimmy left, he keeps his line, gets his nose side-by-side with your rear bumper, then when you return right, you slam into him. Zig-zagging is always a bad idea. What you CAN do is turn to the side he went to (trying to overtake), squeeze him hard. If hes got nothing on the side of you car, you can squeeze him all the way to the grass. THEN you can return to your line, for the next corner - but this is NOT turning back abruptly to your original line - its a more slow, predictable return. This is cause if you swerve left to block an overtaking manouvre, the opponent will, if he has time, turn back to the right side. If you then decide to return to the racing line quickly... bang.
As a general rule, if someone begins to overtake you on the beggining of a straight, dont bother to block - you wont be able to prevent it, and are risking a crash. Nearer a corner, though... you are preventing a side-by-side situation on the corner.
and never do that on the exit to a corner - most people will be coming of the corner as passengers, not drivers, so if you block the exit line, they cannot stop or swerve.
to kurent:
If you do that and the opponent is too close, what will happen is you shimmy left, he keeps his line, gets his nose side-by-side with your rear bumper, then when you return right, you slam into him. Zig-zagging is always a bad idea. What you CAN do is turn to the side he went to (trying to overtake), squeeze him hard. If hes got nothing on the side of you car, you can squeeze him all the way to the grass. THEN you can return to your line, for the next corner - but this is NOT turning back abruptly to your original line - its a more slow, predictable return. This is cause if you swerve left to block an overtaking manouvre, the opponent will, if he has time, turn back to the right side. If you then decide to return to the racing line quickly... bang.
As a general rule, if someone begins to overtake you on the beggining of a straight, dont bother to block - you wont be able to prevent it, and are risking a crash. Nearer a corner, though... you are preventing a side-by-side situation on the corner.
and never do that on the exit to a corner - most people will be coming of the corner as passengers, not drivers, so if you block the exit line, they cannot stop or swerve.
This is theory. in LFS reality, locked diffs work like this:
No throttle to neutral throttle: (car is decelerating) --> MAJOR understeer.
More than neutral throttle: (Car is accelerating) --> High Oversteer.
(on both FWD and RWD cars)
This is cause the outside wheel starts slipping, while the inside one is gripping. The slipping outside wheel tries to make the axis rotate on itself, towards the inside. Thus the outside wheel is burning rubber to help you turn.
It ISNT supposed to work like this - I've driven a car with a broken diff (dont ask me how, but the driver managed to make the diff become a solid ball of metal), and it was completely locked. Besides making slow-speed manouvering (like parking) a nightmare of stalling the car, the car just wouldnt turn at all if I took any bend at a more brisk pace. Even with full throttle down. Full throttle just made the outside wheel start slipping, and slipping and slipping loosing all grip and the car would just slide forwards. For some reason (dunno why), the steering was also quite heavier.
Scawen, pls pls PLS correct the locked diff in lfs,
well, IRL usually small GTI- type cars DONT have a rear antiroll bar, which causes the inner rear wheel to lift from the ground (going into tripod mode), which causes massive oversteer. me thinks that if you put a stiff front anti-roll bar, you can forego the rear hybird tyres.
BUT the main reason is that hybrid tyres give you MORE grip than normals. why? cause they heat up faster, and at the end of a short 5 lap sprint race, the normal rear tires are JUST coming up to temp, while the hybrids have been at optimum temp since lap2...
BUT the main reason is that hybrid tyres give you MORE grip than normals. why? cause they heat up faster, and at the end of a short 5 lap sprint race, the normal rear tires are JUST coming up to temp, while the hybrids have been at optimum temp since lap2...
New tintop class?
Should LFS have a third tin-top class - a kind of super-GTR, on the molds of GT2 (600+hp tintops, rearwheel drive) - I find the GTRs realy nice, but even bigger engines would be great - just 490hp, 3liter engines... I want the huge v10s with 700, 800 hp!
I second the above. Even between new drivers, respect IS there, specially since the most popular servers are very strict about behaviour (CTRA pops to mind). Wreckers can kiss their license bye-bye and their reputation precedes them. EVERYONE sees who you are when you login: "XYZSupahRacer has connected (IwreckFoLife)"
- first is the driver name, but in parenthesis you see the account NAME. Wreckers can change their driver's names, but they DO get recognized.
Plus, I have had loads of door-to-door (or wheel to wheel) races, with little or no contact in S2. And we werent exactly friends, either. Just 2 total strangers doing blackwood 1 in XFGs side by side for FOUR laps. neither ate grass, though a bit of bumpin did occur, but thats racing aye?
Trust me, you wont regret it.
- first is the driver name, but in parenthesis you see the account NAME. Wreckers can change their driver's names, but they DO get recognized.
Plus, I have had loads of door-to-door (or wheel to wheel) races, with little or no contact in S2. And we werent exactly friends, either. Just 2 total strangers doing blackwood 1 in XFGs side by side for FOUR laps. neither ate grass, though a bit of bumpin did occur, but thats racing aye?
Trust me, you wont regret it.
answer is VERY simple, as I suffer from the same: if you watch your replays, you'll see your front right locks up on braking into t1. Then, in the last turn, it heats up quite a bit again, so both effects accumulate quite a bit of temp. the 2 other long left turns (in the first and second chicane) dont heat up, but prevent cooling down. End result is that tyre overheating. You can either raise temp a tad, lower brake power, push brakes to rear, stiffen front bump damper, stiffen rear rebound damper, or softe, front rebound+rear bump dampers. I'd suggest all of the above, but just 1 click each. Then choose one and add a tad more, and more till it is under control.
I dont recall reading THAT in the forum constitution... Since when is a forum a democracy?
its VERY good. solid and feels like it will last.
HOWEVER - it is also quite complex, so very little things DO crop up.
For example, on mine, right out of the box, the place where you put your thumbs (over the horizontal metal bit on the wheel), the leather there was loose - the last bit of leather after the last stich was flapping. It was only like .3cms, but it drove me crazy - superglue fixed THAT.
And my accelerator pedal, if I push it slowly, has a slight "ping" to it. I feel through my foot as if it ran over a little bit of metal as I push it down. Though its very hard to detect, Im a perfectionist
The pedals also move sideways a bit, but I think its a feature, not a defect - if you make things give a bit, they last longer than if they were completely stiff.
BUT its a great wheel, feels great, solid, smooth on FFB, and the clutch is pure driving heaven. you can choose to NOT use it, and THAT is invaluable. Being able to choose if you want to push the clutch or not. OR how to shift (paddles/shifter/sequential shifter).
Worth every penny I spent for it (318€)
HOWEVER - it is also quite complex, so very little things DO crop up.
For example, on mine, right out of the box, the place where you put your thumbs (over the horizontal metal bit on the wheel), the leather there was loose - the last bit of leather after the last stich was flapping. It was only like .3cms, but it drove me crazy - superglue fixed THAT.
And my accelerator pedal, if I push it slowly, has a slight "ping" to it. I feel through my foot as if it ran over a little bit of metal as I push it down. Though its very hard to detect, Im a perfectionist
The pedals also move sideways a bit, but I think its a feature, not a defect - if you make things give a bit, they last longer than if they were completely stiff.
BUT its a great wheel, feels great, solid, smooth on FFB, and the clutch is pure driving heaven. you can choose to NOT use it, and THAT is invaluable. Being able to choose if you want to push the clutch or not. OR how to shift (paddles/shifter/sequential shifter).
Worth every penny I spent for it (318€)
nah, no prob at all. I went for a company-only Kart race a few years back, and I spent the weekend before the race (t'was to be done on a monday - work day heheheh) driving around with GrandPrix 2 (remember that game?). Come race day, As soon as I had my butt in the kart, all the "turn wheel X to turn Y radius" went out the window and I qualified 3rd, having arrived late and missed the 30mins practice session and half the qualifying. Then on the race, I ended a very respectfull 2nd place, gaining around .3 seconds per lap to a guy that raced those karts in a championship, every week. (he came with his helmet, race suit, back harness, gloves, race shoes, the works. I was with a t-shirt and jeans. Boy was I COLD.)
Sim racing WILL improve your karting - no worries. Youll learn lines (a lot more than on the track), and will improve VASTLY on your gut-feeling of the car - youll know just how fast you can do a bend after doing it 3 times, and will catch the kart attempting to slide out on you much MUCH faster.
Sim racing WILL improve your karting - no worries. Youll learn lines (a lot more than on the track), and will improve VASTLY on your gut-feeling of the car - youll know just how fast you can do a bend after doing it 3 times, and will catch the kart attempting to slide out on you much MUCH faster.
on straights tyres HEAT UP, not cool down. The rotation is fast enought that the centrifugal force streches the tires and generates heat. Thats why driving on motorways then gently coasting to a stop makes the tires warm. If you cook a tyre, it will STAY cooked. to lower temp you have to accelerate more slowly, brake a LOT easier and turn a hell of a lot slower.
The thing that usually cooks tires tho0ugh, is oversteering. Try to lower the steering angle (say, from 30º down to 18º), turn the wheel as you usually do, and youll find you should be able to go around the corners as fast as before, but with less temp.
To check for this, save a replay of a fast (and tire-wise hot) lap, then view the replay from a custom camera near the front wheels, looking back, with the body of the car not drawn. Youll notice that in most corners you are turning the wheels too much - much MUCH more than needed.
The thing that usually cooks tires tho0ugh, is oversteering. Try to lower the steering angle (say, from 30º down to 18º), turn the wheel as you usually do, and youll find you should be able to go around the corners as fast as before, but with less temp.
To check for this, save a replay of a fast (and tire-wise hot) lap, then view the replay from a custom camera near the front wheels, looking back, with the body of the car not drawn. Youll notice that in most corners you are turning the wheels too much - much MUCH more than needed.
I like the blue flaggers that try to race me. One warning of my blue-flag bind (move, or Ill MAKE you move), then I subtly take them out. Long hours of practice with the AI does wonders for automotive war, I tell you!
my XRT
This my new XRT skin. Private, ofc - it has my name on teh side!
I tried to read your post, but could only look at your avatar. Sorry.
me IN!
Flatshifting and specially Loked Diffs are the SPAWN OF SATAN!!!
Flatshifting and specially Loked Diffs are the SPAWN OF SATAN!!!
WHOOOOA Uber render!!!! My new Wallpaper!
But.. What I wanted was something along these lines (decent render, pls...)
With a white background, just to show off the skin:
I also include the skinfile again, just so any charitable soul would render it in 1600*1200 goodness
But.. What I wanted was something along these lines (decent render, pls...
)With a white background, just to show off the skin:
I also include the skinfile again, just so any charitable soul would render it in 1600*1200 goodness
I'd like a request: pls pls pls render my beautifull, 2560*2048 megaskin!
I'd like it like one of those that shows the frontleft and the rearright of the car in one picture, since the car is assymetrical... and in 1600*1200 gorgeous! pretty pls?
I'd like it like one of those that shows the frontleft and the rearright of the car in one picture, since the car is assymetrical... and in 1600*1200 gorgeous! pretty pls?
Last edited by Stigpt, .
Reason : forgot the link - DUH
simple - LOW.
Lots
Of
Work
Basically, have a pic of what the car looks like from all angles, get all the sponsor logos, and put them on the equivalent place in the car.
Lots
Of
Work
Basically, have a pic of what the car looks like from all angles, get all the sponsor logos, and put them on the equivalent place in the car.
I usually do FZ5 with a easy to drive setup in SO long. Lots of speed, lots of controlled, fun driftage.
The comment of one of my friends was "now I know why some people spend 250.000€ on a car. If its anything like this, I WANT one!"
The comment of one of my friends was "now I know why some people spend 250.000€ on a car. If its anything like this, I WANT one!"
Oh no,.. LFS is a RELIGION, and the holy triad are our gods.
God Scawen and his left and right-hand Gods.
Pray to them daily, as you would the FPS Gods.
And on the first corner of the first race of the first hour of the day, let one of your opponents go past as a worthy sacrifice to our Gods.
www.churchofgaming.com
FXO is still the fastest, even with thinner tires. (round BL1), Followed by the RB4 (can take corners faster) and then, finally the XRT.
RB4 should remain is previous wieght, FXO should gain some 10kgs in front, and the XRT should be 10kgs lighter, in the rear for better balance and greater power to weight.
To have all cars do similar laps, the power-to-wieght should be XRT -> FXO -> RB4.
RB4 should remain is previous wieght, FXO should gain some 10kgs in front, and the XRT should be 10kgs lighter, in the rear for better balance and greater power to weight.
To have all cars do similar laps, the power-to-wieght should be XRT -> FXO -> RB4.
AAAND - if you put the fox with 7Kgs penalty and 16% (I think its 17 cant recall right now)
restriction, it has the same power-to-weight as the FBMW, but slower acceleration and higher cornering speed. This means you can put foxes vs Fbemers!
restriction, it has the same power-to-weight as the FBMW, but slower acceleration and higher cornering speed. This means you can put foxes vs Fbemers!
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG