I remind you all of the mythical...
Skid Vicious!
Major kudos to who know from where that is!
Skid Vicious!
Major kudos to who know from where that is!
Last edited by Stigpt, .
Reason : Doh typo!
not really sure why, but I cant seem to get CTRA servers to show up at all. And those in my favorites list always have 9999 ping, and dont show any players.
However, if I hit "Server Details", I can see who is in there"
However, if I hit "Server Details", I can see who is in there"
I parked my Smart right behind a big mercedes, nose first into a wall. When I returned, my rear left bumper/wheel well was broken (its plastic) And right at the spot there was dark blue paint.
One week later, same spot, same dark blue merc. As revenge, I emptied both righhand tires. When I returned, there were a couple of pretty deep ruts in the asphalt right after the sidewalk (we were both on top of a 10cm sidewalk). Revenge, it is sweet, ja?
Also at college - There was one dude that ALWAYS parked sideways. He got 2 A4 papers on the front and rear window saying "I always park sideways - I'm a moron" - THAT one never again parked like that.
And the best thing about a Smart Fortwo? when someone parks on the white line, hes not occupying 2 places, hes CREATING 2 more - for Smarts. I gotta post a pic from my phone of a small peugeot 106 positively surrounded by Smarts
One week later, same spot, same dark blue merc. As revenge, I emptied both righhand tires. When I returned, there were a couple of pretty deep ruts in the asphalt right after the sidewalk (we were both on top of a 10cm sidewalk). Revenge, it is sweet, ja?
Also at college - There was one dude that ALWAYS parked sideways. He got 2 A4 papers on the front and rear window saying "I always park sideways - I'm a moron" - THAT one never again parked like that.
And the best thing about a Smart Fortwo? when someone parks on the white line, hes not occupying 2 places, hes CREATING 2 more - for Smarts. I gotta post a pic from my phone of a small peugeot 106 positively surrounded by Smarts
Last edited by Stigpt, .
try all of the following (1 or 2 clicks only)
Stiffer rear ARB
stiffer rear bump damping
softer rear springs
less camber on inside rear wheel
all trying to give the inside rear a tad more weight. methinks that is caused by the rear inside lifting off the ground.
Stiffer rear ARB
stiffer rear bump damping
softer rear springs
less camber on inside rear wheel
all trying to give the inside rear a tad more weight. methinks that is caused by the rear inside lifting off the ground.
I very recently had the oportunity to drive round a international racing circuit (Estoril), and I must say that LFS is very much on the nose. From driving alone, it already felt very close. But from driving in a real circuit - just about perfect. Damn near perfect, really.
The car was a 70-ishhp XFG (Seat Ibiza), road specced. If you put one very soft (with zero ARB) setup on the XFG, it drives exactly the same. The vageness of the steering, the sense of weightlessness at high speed its all there. Also included was the heavy braking stress of having to control a very light rear. And it was as chuckable and as possible to just throw around as in LFS - stomp on the gas pedal at the apex, and off you went... with the feeling you could have gone even faster.
It feels spot on when your driving in your motorway, but feels exactly spot on when your on a ultra-flat circuit with lightly banked corners, rumblestrips, and a very very wide road.
EDIT:
Actually, thats the exact problem I get with rFactor - drove the demo, and couldt quite figure out if I was driving a FWD or a RWD car.
Me thinks that since rFactor has the same engine as GTR (simbin) the result is that its prepared for wide slick tyres, huge engines, and rwd. The rest is an adaptation. Thing is, adpating doesnt work. Slicks are VERY different from road normals - slicks have huge amounts of grip, but when they let go - your off for good. They start sliding a tad, but if grip goes - so do you (gtr-style). BUT on normal tyres, or at lower speeds, it just doesnt happen, the tire can slide quite a lot and you can still control the car. The rFactor demo car feels like a AWD(with strong rear bias) sedan with thin slick tires, low HP and huge torque. And it isnt. Understeer on entry, oversteer on exit, and the change is about instantaneous in between. gah.
The car was a 70-ishhp XFG (Seat Ibiza), road specced. If you put one very soft (with zero ARB) setup on the XFG, it drives exactly the same. The vageness of the steering, the sense of weightlessness at high speed its all there. Also included was the heavy braking stress of having to control a very light rear. And it was as chuckable and as possible to just throw around as in LFS - stomp on the gas pedal at the apex, and off you went... with the feeling you could have gone even faster.
It feels spot on when your driving in your motorway, but feels exactly spot on when your on a ultra-flat circuit with lightly banked corners, rumblestrips, and a very very wide road.
EDIT:
Actually, thats the exact problem I get with rFactor - drove the demo, and couldt quite figure out if I was driving a FWD or a RWD car.
Me thinks that since rFactor has the same engine as GTR (simbin) the result is that its prepared for wide slick tyres, huge engines, and rwd. The rest is an adaptation. Thing is, adpating doesnt work. Slicks are VERY different from road normals - slicks have huge amounts of grip, but when they let go - your off for good. They start sliding a tad, but if grip goes - so do you (gtr-style). BUT on normal tyres, or at lower speeds, it just doesnt happen, the tire can slide quite a lot and you can still control the car. The rFactor demo car feels like a AWD(with strong rear bias) sedan with thin slick tires, low HP and huge torque. And it isnt. Understeer on entry, oversteer on exit, and the change is about instantaneous in between. gah.
Last edited by Stigpt, .
TY - KADA. your page is down - says 403 forbidden.
The stuff there is invaluable, really. SO was nick's PDF.
You two should also make more clear to connect the wiring to the correct pins - 1,9,14,16,17 - and NOT any others.
The stuff there is invaluable, really. SO was nick's PDF.
You two should also make more clear to connect the wiring to the correct pins - 1,9,14,16,17 - and NOT any others.
http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=685795#post685795
sift through this thread. It has links to everything you need.
Original credits go to kada, I used Nick_A's version (I used a 3 light rev meter, and a fuel light and rpm limiter light).
If I could do it, anyone can. Trust me.
(I got a splitting headache from inhaling a lungfull of soldering "smoke", yet I somehow managed to build it)
sift through this thread. It has links to everything you need.
Original credits go to kada, I used Nick_A's version (I used a 3 light rev meter, and a fuel light and rpm limiter light).
If I could do it, anyone can. Trust me.
(I got a splitting headache from inhaling a lungfull of soldering "smoke", yet I somehow managed to build it)
woot!
I just managed to build a working one, and if _I_, with my thick fingers, and ZERO experience can build one, ANYONE can.
By zero experience I mean before I started I couldnt tell the difference between a soldering iron and a self-sealing stembolt.
I just managed to build a working one, and if _I_, with my thick fingers, and ZERO experience can build one, ANYONE can.
By zero experience I mean before I started I couldnt tell the difference between a soldering iron and a self-sealing stembolt.
jeezus christ - dont you ppl believe in... MOVIES????
Fraps + WindowsMovieMaker + youtube (aka iutubí) are you friends....
Fraps + WindowsMovieMaker + youtube (aka iutubí) are you friends....
not quite - I know trhee or four drivers which have a race later tonight
Victor, if you werent' so feathery and didnt have a beak, Id kiss you!
Victor: Some suggestions:
Remember spectators dont need to view the race in real-time.
Having a "frame buffer" can be usefull for smoother movement - theres no problem in having spectators have a 500ms delay or something. So you could keep inserting stuff into the buffer so it has time to receive all data from all cars. In the beggining, give 500ms of lag, so the buffer is "filled", and as soon as half the buffer's frames have full data, start playing. If the connection is 100% perfect, thats only a 250ms delay.
If the buffer is full, start playing so that there's no "loss" of frames. With a bit of luck, the frames being played are already full, and when it comes to the first non-complete frames in the buffer, they could have been completed.
Frame: A set of data of all cars, given a X point in time. I.E. for each X point in time, collect all data from all cars, then display it.
You problably already implemente this, OR it cant be implemented due to how LFS's netcode works, or any other billion reasons.
Remember spectators dont need to view the race in real-time.
Having a "frame buffer" can be usefull for smoother movement - theres no problem in having spectators have a 500ms delay or something. So you could keep inserting stuff into the buffer so it has time to receive all data from all cars. In the beggining, give 500ms of lag, so the buffer is "filled", and as soon as half the buffer's frames have full data, start playing. If the connection is 100% perfect, thats only a 250ms delay.
If the buffer is full, start playing so that there's no "loss" of frames. With a bit of luck, the frames being played are already full, and when it comes to the first non-complete frames in the buffer, they could have been completed.
Frame: A set of data of all cars, given a X point in time. I.E. for each X point in time, collect all data from all cars, then display it.
You problably already implemente this, OR it cant be implemented due to how LFS's netcode works, or any other billion reasons.
Oh my, Oh my, oh my! This is great it is actually so great my brain imploded and now i cant type properly and have to type like a moronic script kiddie cause i cant think of anything else than being able to watch races from anywhere anytime and spectating big league races like owrl and the 24h league and omg ty victor i dunno wat to sai kkthxs me lyek bannnnas hmmdonuuuutzzzzz
To pine-fin: Good piece of driving, you held your line, on the inside and very efficiently defended. The other driver could have overtaken you if he had gone wide, and did the normal line, but he insisted on trying for the inside and lost.
to kurent:
If you do that and the opponent is too close, what will happen is you shimmy left, he keeps his line, gets his nose side-by-side with your rear bumper, then when you return right, you slam into him. Zig-zagging is always a bad idea. What you CAN do is turn to the side he went to (trying to overtake), squeeze him hard. If hes got nothing on the side of you car, you can squeeze him all the way to the grass. THEN you can return to your line, for the next corner - but this is NOT turning back abruptly to your original line - its a more slow, predictable return. This is cause if you swerve left to block an overtaking manouvre, the opponent will, if he has time, turn back to the right side. If you then decide to return to the racing line quickly... bang.
As a general rule, if someone begins to overtake you on the beggining of a straight, dont bother to block - you wont be able to prevent it, and are risking a crash. Nearer a corner, though... you are preventing a side-by-side situation on the corner.
and never do that on the exit to a corner - most people will be coming of the corner as passengers, not drivers, so if you block the exit line, they cannot stop or swerve.
to kurent:
If you do that and the opponent is too close, what will happen is you shimmy left, he keeps his line, gets his nose side-by-side with your rear bumper, then when you return right, you slam into him. Zig-zagging is always a bad idea. What you CAN do is turn to the side he went to (trying to overtake), squeeze him hard. If hes got nothing on the side of you car, you can squeeze him all the way to the grass. THEN you can return to your line, for the next corner - but this is NOT turning back abruptly to your original line - its a more slow, predictable return. This is cause if you swerve left to block an overtaking manouvre, the opponent will, if he has time, turn back to the right side. If you then decide to return to the racing line quickly... bang.
As a general rule, if someone begins to overtake you on the beggining of a straight, dont bother to block - you wont be able to prevent it, and are risking a crash. Nearer a corner, though... you are preventing a side-by-side situation on the corner.
and never do that on the exit to a corner - most people will be coming of the corner as passengers, not drivers, so if you block the exit line, they cannot stop or swerve.
This is theory. in LFS reality, locked diffs work like this:
No throttle to neutral throttle: (car is decelerating) --> MAJOR understeer.
More than neutral throttle: (Car is accelerating) --> High Oversteer.
(on both FWD and RWD cars)
This is cause the outside wheel starts slipping, while the inside one is gripping. The slipping outside wheel tries to make the axis rotate on itself, towards the inside. Thus the outside wheel is burning rubber to help you turn.
It ISNT supposed to work like this - I've driven a car with a broken diff (dont ask me how, but the driver managed to make the diff become a solid ball of metal), and it was completely locked. Besides making slow-speed manouvering (like parking) a nightmare of stalling the car, the car just wouldnt turn at all if I took any bend at a more brisk pace. Even with full throttle down. Full throttle just made the outside wheel start slipping, and slipping and slipping loosing all grip and the car would just slide forwards. For some reason (dunno why), the steering was also quite heavier.
Scawen, pls pls PLS correct the locked diff in lfs,
well, IRL usually small GTI- type cars DONT have a rear antiroll bar, which causes the inner rear wheel to lift from the ground (going into tripod mode), which causes massive oversteer. me thinks that if you put a stiff front anti-roll bar, you can forego the rear hybird tyres.
BUT the main reason is that hybrid tyres give you MORE grip than normals. why? cause they heat up faster, and at the end of a short 5 lap sprint race, the normal rear tires are JUST coming up to temp, while the hybrids have been at optimum temp since lap2...
BUT the main reason is that hybrid tyres give you MORE grip than normals. why? cause they heat up faster, and at the end of a short 5 lap sprint race, the normal rear tires are JUST coming up to temp, while the hybrids have been at optimum temp since lap2...
New tintop class?
Should LFS have a third tin-top class - a kind of super-GTR, on the molds of GT2 (600+hp tintops, rearwheel drive) - I find the GTRs realy nice, but even bigger engines would be great - just 490hp, 3liter engines... I want the huge v10s with 700, 800 hp!
well - now everyone has their accoutnames
And yes, STOP and HERE
And yes, STOP and HERE
2jokers ruining races, beware:
They have been reported, but Ill post here so other drivers and server admins can be warned:
2 players in CTRA1 just blocked the first chicane in FE2, waiting for the leaders to crash into them.
(replay attached -> watch from player named "STOP")
They started with the rest of the pack, and immediatly stopped in the chicane 1 and manouvered so they covered the whole track. Luckily, one was spectated for idle before leaders arrived, but the other one didnt.
To know theyr account names, hit CTRL+Shift while viewing the replay.
I dunno the "name and shame" policy of these forums, but this is a serious offense - unless we want s2 servers to turn into demo servers...
cant attach, so heres a link:
http://www.raceauthority.com/r ... _FE2_12_Jan_2008_0100.mpr
2 players in CTRA1 just blocked the first chicane in FE2, waiting for the leaders to crash into them.
(replay attached -> watch from player named "STOP")
They started with the rest of the pack, and immediatly stopped in the chicane 1 and manouvered so they covered the whole track. Luckily, one was spectated for idle before leaders arrived, but the other one didnt.
To know theyr account names, hit CTRL+Shift while viewing the replay.
I dunno the "name and shame" policy of these forums, but this is a serious offense - unless we want s2 servers to turn into demo servers...
cant attach, so heres a link:
http://www.raceauthority.com/r ... _FE2_12_Jan_2008_0100.mpr
Last edited by Stigpt, .
Reason : forgot the replay, heh
same as yeager - on straights = squeeze, on bends with no overlap= shutoff quite aggressivly, his nose near the edge of my door = space at apex.
How often should we report people?
I've been wondering - should I report anyone for misconduct or just gross cases?
This is because, for example in CTRA race1 you can hardly defend your position (i.e. use defensive driving by braking in the middle of the track, "closing the door", etc) when your opponent doenst have overlap simply because most drivers dont understand that if they havent got the nose to the door of the other car, they must back down even on straights. This results in crashes and the lead car being spun any time you try to close the door on someone. Granted, closing the door all the way to the wall in a straight isnt exactly nice to do, but at the very least on the corners...
Should we be lenient of these crashes and only report the real wreckers, or is there no problem in flooding the report system with reports of non-overlap crashes, drivers recovering with no care of incoming traffic, blue-flag ignorers, etc?
I'd tend to report eveyrone, but I'd guess a flooded report system is also no good.
EDIT:
Nice would be to when reviewing a replay, check the reportee for the whole race, and also penalize him for any misconduct on the replay he sent - would make people think twice before going on a revenge run in the same race as they got taken out
This is because, for example in CTRA race1 you can hardly defend your position (i.e. use defensive driving by braking in the middle of the track, "closing the door", etc) when your opponent doenst have overlap simply because most drivers dont understand that if they havent got the nose to the door of the other car, they must back down even on straights. This results in crashes and the lead car being spun any time you try to close the door on someone. Granted, closing the door all the way to the wall in a straight isnt exactly nice to do, but at the very least on the corners...
Should we be lenient of these crashes and only report the real wreckers, or is there no problem in flooding the report system with reports of non-overlap crashes, drivers recovering with no care of incoming traffic, blue-flag ignorers, etc?
I'd tend to report eveyrone, but I'd guess a flooded report system is also no good.
EDIT:
Nice would be to when reviewing a replay, check the reportee for the whole race, and also penalize him for any misconduct on the replay he sent - would make people think twice before going on a revenge run in the same race as they got taken out
I second the above. Even between new drivers, respect IS there, specially since the most popular servers are very strict about behaviour (CTRA pops to mind). Wreckers can kiss their license bye-bye and their reputation precedes them. EVERYONE sees who you are when you login: "XYZSupahRacer has connected (IwreckFoLife)"
- first is the driver name, but in parenthesis you see the account NAME. Wreckers can change their driver's names, but they DO get recognized.
Plus, I have had loads of door-to-door (or wheel to wheel) races, with little or no contact in S2. And we werent exactly friends, either. Just 2 total strangers doing blackwood 1 in XFGs side by side for FOUR laps. neither ate grass, though a bit of bumpin did occur, but thats racing aye?
Trust me, you wont regret it.
- first is the driver name, but in parenthesis you see the account NAME. Wreckers can change their driver's names, but they DO get recognized.
Plus, I have had loads of door-to-door (or wheel to wheel) races, with little or no contact in S2. And we werent exactly friends, either. Just 2 total strangers doing blackwood 1 in XFGs side by side for FOUR laps. neither ate grass, though a bit of bumpin did occur, but thats racing aye?
Trust me, you wont regret it.
answer is VERY simple, as I suffer from the same: if you watch your replays, you'll see your front right locks up on braking into t1. Then, in the last turn, it heats up quite a bit again, so both effects accumulate quite a bit of temp. the 2 other long left turns (in the first and second chicane) dont heat up, but prevent cooling down. End result is that tyre overheating. You can either raise temp a tad, lower brake power, push brakes to rear, stiffen front bump damper, stiffen rear rebound damper, or softe, front rebound+rear bump dampers. I'd suggest all of the above, but just 1 click each. Then choose one and add a tad more, and more till it is under control.
I dont recall reading THAT in the forum constitution... Since when is a forum a democracy?
its VERY good. solid and feels like it will last.
HOWEVER - it is also quite complex, so very little things DO crop up.
For example, on mine, right out of the box, the place where you put your thumbs (over the horizontal metal bit on the wheel), the leather there was loose - the last bit of leather after the last stich was flapping. It was only like .3cms, but it drove me crazy - superglue fixed THAT.
And my accelerator pedal, if I push it slowly, has a slight "ping" to it. I feel through my foot as if it ran over a little bit of metal as I push it down. Though its very hard to detect, Im a perfectionist
The pedals also move sideways a bit, but I think its a feature, not a defect - if you make things give a bit, they last longer than if they were completely stiff.
BUT its a great wheel, feels great, solid, smooth on FFB, and the clutch is pure driving heaven. you can choose to NOT use it, and THAT is invaluable. Being able to choose if you want to push the clutch or not. OR how to shift (paddles/shifter/sequential shifter).
Worth every penny I spent for it (318€)
HOWEVER - it is also quite complex, so very little things DO crop up.
For example, on mine, right out of the box, the place where you put your thumbs (over the horizontal metal bit on the wheel), the leather there was loose - the last bit of leather after the last stich was flapping. It was only like .3cms, but it drove me crazy - superglue fixed THAT.
And my accelerator pedal, if I push it slowly, has a slight "ping" to it. I feel through my foot as if it ran over a little bit of metal as I push it down. Though its very hard to detect, Im a perfectionist
The pedals also move sideways a bit, but I think its a feature, not a defect - if you make things give a bit, they last longer than if they were completely stiff.
BUT its a great wheel, feels great, solid, smooth on FFB, and the clutch is pure driving heaven. you can choose to NOT use it, and THAT is invaluable. Being able to choose if you want to push the clutch or not. OR how to shift (paddles/shifter/sequential shifter).
Worth every penny I spent for it (318€)
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG