nah, no prob at all. I went for a company-only Kart race a few years back, and I spent the weekend before the race (t'was to be done on a monday - work day heheheh) driving around with GrandPrix 2 (remember that game?). Come race day, As soon as I had my butt in the kart, all the "turn wheel X to turn Y radius" went out the window and I qualified 3rd, having arrived late and missed the 30mins practice session and half the qualifying. Then on the race, I ended a very respectfull 2nd place, gaining around .3 seconds per lap to a guy that raced those karts in a championship, every week. (he came with his helmet, race suit, back harness, gloves, race shoes, the works. I was with a t-shirt and jeans. Boy was I COLD.)
Sim racing WILL improve your karting - no worries. Youll learn lines (a lot more than on the track), and will improve VASTLY on your gut-feeling of the car - youll know just how fast you can do a bend after doing it 3 times, and will catch the kart attempting to slide out on you much MUCH faster.
Sim racing WILL improve your karting - no worries. Youll learn lines (a lot more than on the track), and will improve VASTLY on your gut-feeling of the car - youll know just how fast you can do a bend after doing it 3 times, and will catch the kart attempting to slide out on you much MUCH faster.
on straights tyres HEAT UP, not cool down. The rotation is fast enought that the centrifugal force streches the tires and generates heat. Thats why driving on motorways then gently coasting to a stop makes the tires warm. If you cook a tyre, it will STAY cooked. to lower temp you have to accelerate more slowly, brake a LOT easier and turn a hell of a lot slower.
The thing that usually cooks tires tho0ugh, is oversteering. Try to lower the steering angle (say, from 30º down to 18º), turn the wheel as you usually do, and youll find you should be able to go around the corners as fast as before, but with less temp.
To check for this, save a replay of a fast (and tire-wise hot) lap, then view the replay from a custom camera near the front wheels, looking back, with the body of the car not drawn. Youll notice that in most corners you are turning the wheels too much - much MUCH more than needed.
The thing that usually cooks tires tho0ugh, is oversteering. Try to lower the steering angle (say, from 30º down to 18º), turn the wheel as you usually do, and youll find you should be able to go around the corners as fast as before, but with less temp.
To check for this, save a replay of a fast (and tire-wise hot) lap, then view the replay from a custom camera near the front wheels, looking back, with the body of the car not drawn. Youll notice that in most corners you are turning the wheels too much - much MUCH more than needed.
I like the blue flaggers that try to race me. One warning of my blue-flag bind (move, or Ill MAKE you move), then I subtly take them out. Long hours of practice with the AI does wonders for automotive war, I tell you!
my XRT
This my new XRT skin. Private, ofc - it has my name on teh side! 
I tried to read your post, but could only look at your avatar. Sorry.
me IN!
Flatshifting and specially Loked Diffs are the SPAWN OF SATAN!!!
Flatshifting and specially Loked Diffs are the SPAWN OF SATAN!!!
WHOOOOA Uber render!!!! My new Wallpaper!
But.. What I wanted was something along these lines (decent render, pls...)
With a white background, just to show off the skin:
I also include the skinfile again, just so any charitable soul would render it in 1600*1200 goodness
But.. What I wanted was something along these lines (decent render, pls...
)With a white background, just to show off the skin:
I also include the skinfile again, just so any charitable soul would render it in 1600*1200 goodness
I'd like a request: pls pls pls render my beautifull, 2560*2048 megaskin!
I'd like it like one of those that shows the frontleft and the rearright of the car in one picture, since the car is assymetrical... and in 1600*1200 gorgeous! pretty pls?
I'd like it like one of those that shows the frontleft and the rearright of the car in one picture, since the car is assymetrical... and in 1600*1200 gorgeous! pretty pls?
Last edited by Stigpt, .
Reason : forgot the link - DUH
simple - LOW.
Lots
Of
Work
Basically, have a pic of what the car looks like from all angles, get all the sponsor logos, and put them on the equivalent place in the car.
Lots
Of
Work
Basically, have a pic of what the car looks like from all angles, get all the sponsor logos, and put them on the equivalent place in the car.
I usually do FZ5 with a easy to drive setup in SO long. Lots of speed, lots of controlled, fun driftage.
The comment of one of my friends was "now I know why some people spend 250.000€ on a car. If its anything like this, I WANT one!"
The comment of one of my friends was "now I know why some people spend 250.000€ on a car. If its anything like this, I WANT one!"
Oh no,.. LFS is a RELIGION, and the holy triad are our gods.
God Scawen and his left and right-hand Gods.
Pray to them daily, as you would the FPS Gods.
And on the first corner of the first race of the first hour of the day, let one of your opponents go past as a worthy sacrifice to our Gods.
www.churchofgaming.com
FXO is still the fastest, even with thinner tires. (round BL1), Followed by the RB4 (can take corners faster) and then, finally the XRT.
RB4 should remain is previous wieght, FXO should gain some 10kgs in front, and the XRT should be 10kgs lighter, in the rear for better balance and greater power to weight.
To have all cars do similar laps, the power-to-wieght should be XRT -> FXO -> RB4.
RB4 should remain is previous wieght, FXO should gain some 10kgs in front, and the XRT should be 10kgs lighter, in the rear for better balance and greater power to weight.
To have all cars do similar laps, the power-to-wieght should be XRT -> FXO -> RB4.
AAAND - if you put the fox with 7Kgs penalty and 16% (I think its 17 cant recall right now)
restriction, it has the same power-to-weight as the FBMW, but slower acceleration and higher cornering speed. This means you can put foxes vs Fbemers!
restriction, it has the same power-to-weight as the FBMW, but slower acceleration and higher cornering speed. This means you can put foxes vs Fbemers!
in this next patch, theres 2 kinds of sequentials:
the FBMW (henceforth, Formula beemer->FeeBeemer) has a non throttle cut sequential, meaning you either lift of the gas to shift up, OR use the clutch and lift (though you can choose not to lift, but will eat up the clutch).
The others (FOX, FB8, FXR, XRR) have a throttle-cut sequential - very much like the current roadcar semi-automatic gearboxes found in the newer cars (like the flappy-paddle citroen c4 picasso, the smart fortwo, and on the other end of the spectrum, the flappy paddles of the maserati, F430 and astons.). These work via a "robot" that engages the clutch, and then changes gears for you. It can range from downright retarded (like in the Smart) or uber highspeed (like in the F430)
In these robotic semi-autos there is no clutch pedal. I believe LFS simulates this kind of tranny, as a regular full auto (torque-converter auto) would be ripped apart by the most powerfull engines. Additionally, these trannys ALSO cut your throttle, so you can keep your foot on the gas to shift up. They do NOT blip on downshift (as in regular driving it would be needed all the time, and "wastes" fuel) but they DO cut. Infact, in most, if you lift off the throttle on upshift it gets confused and leads to quite a jerky shift. (basically, a computer reads how much throttle your putting, and decides to shift quickly or more slowly depending on how much you are throttling (is that a word?). If you lift mid-way through the shift it tries to slow down the shift to match a less sporty driving style.
I have no idea if the Febemer has a clutch pedal IRL, but since you can put in LFS settings "shifter" type transmission and manual clutch and STILL shift without using the clutch pedal, methinks it doesnt, and has a robotic-style semi-auto that has no upshiftcut (and for safety doesnt change up if your on the throttle).
the FBMW (henceforth, Formula beemer->FeeBeemer) has a non throttle cut sequential, meaning you either lift of the gas to shift up, OR use the clutch and lift (though you can choose not to lift, but will eat up the clutch).
The others (FOX, FB8, FXR, XRR) have a throttle-cut sequential - very much like the current roadcar semi-automatic gearboxes found in the newer cars (like the flappy-paddle citroen c4 picasso, the smart fortwo, and on the other end of the spectrum, the flappy paddles of the maserati, F430 and astons.). These work via a "robot" that engages the clutch, and then changes gears for you. It can range from downright retarded (like in the Smart) or uber highspeed (like in the F430)
In these robotic semi-autos there is no clutch pedal. I believe LFS simulates this kind of tranny, as a regular full auto (torque-converter auto) would be ripped apart by the most powerfull engines. Additionally, these trannys ALSO cut your throttle, so you can keep your foot on the gas to shift up. They do NOT blip on downshift (as in regular driving it would be needed all the time, and "wastes" fuel) but they DO cut. Infact, in most, if you lift off the throttle on upshift it gets confused and leads to quite a jerky shift. (basically, a computer reads how much throttle your putting, and decides to shift quickly or more slowly depending on how much you are throttling (is that a word?). If you lift mid-way through the shift it tries to slow down the shift to match a less sporty driving style.
I have no idea if the Febemer has a clutch pedal IRL, but since you can put in LFS settings "shifter" type transmission and manual clutch and STILL shift without using the clutch pedal, methinks it doesnt, and has a robotic-style semi-auto that has no upshiftcut (and for safety doesnt change up if your on the throttle).
No its not. I dunno what kind of car you have, but when I get it going without touching the accelerator (which I regularly do), my ACCELERATOR PEDAL does NOT strat depressing by itself...
Go try to start a car by lifting off the clutch slowly, do NOT touch the accelerator, and the car will start moving (as expected) BUT the green bar starts going up, trying to prevent a stall (as it shoudlnt be)
If you put in a gear with manual gear and clutch, then lift the clutch veeeeeeeery slooooooooowly, the car starts accelerating by itself (as in, it presses the accelerator pedal by itself).
Basically, the THROTTLE is still exibiting the same behaviour as in patch X - just the clutch isnt.
Basically, the THROTTLE is still exibiting the same behaviour as in patch X - just the clutch isnt.
Apparently the new BMW is very close to the fox- cant wait to try both cars in the same track to get a feeling for it. But I can already envision Foxes vs Beemers..... instead of Foxes vs F*cking Oversteering 8's....
instead of Foxes vs F*cking Oversteering 8's....do NOT buy a vibrating FFB seat - or else your girlfriend will never seave that seat. Unless you like to live with the constant backgroundnoise of an engine revving and your girlfriend having a lot of fun in a stationary car....
HUGE thanxs - its now working properly. Everything reconfigures automatically as I load the cars up.
Same old adage - when in doubt, READ THE ****ING MANUAL.
Sorry for being dumb.
NOW - to attone for my idiocy, here are my files:
What do they do?
They reconfigure your G25 (only tested with this wheel, use other wheels at your own risk) to automatically use sequential, roadcar, or flappy-paddle gearboxes (f1style), in the following manner:
FOX, UFR, XFR, FXR, XRR, FZR, MRT all use SEQUENTIAL
(basically, all the GTR's - big and small, plus fox and mrt)
FO8, BF1 - Flappy paddle
All others - Road Cars.
How to install?
Unzip contents into /lfs/data/scripts
BACKUP YOUR OWN SCRIPTS DIRECTORY BEFORE IN CASE IT GOES HORRIBLY WRONG
How to use
Do nothing - when you exit the pits with the car, theres a small message on the top notifying you what gearbox you got, and a reminder to set the g25's degrees of rotation in the profiler. It automatically sets the "controller wheel rotates Xºs" slider for you - to equal the car's wheel rotation.
How to edit? / Dont like your choices / Your brake pedal change is TEH SUCK!!111!!!ELEVEN!!
Go into /lfs/data/scripts, open either paddle.lfs or sequential.lfs or road.lfs (whichever you wanna edit) with a moronic, barely-usable, barely-worth-the-name text editor called notepad, and edit away. Everything is commented and easy to understand. If you have an IQ higher than notepad, you can edit it with no problems.
Same old adage - when in doubt, READ THE ****ING MANUAL.
Sorry for being dumb.
NOW - to attone for my idiocy, here are my files:
What do they do?
They reconfigure your G25 (only tested with this wheel, use other wheels at your own risk) to automatically use sequential, roadcar, or flappy-paddle gearboxes (f1style), in the following manner:
- Road Cars:
- Manual Clutch, H-Gate shifter, no Downshift blip, no upshift cut. YOU do everything.
- Wheel paddles on the LEFT is for lights, wheel paddle on the right is the horn.
- Manual Clutch, H-Gate shifter, no Downshift blip, no upshift cut. YOU do everything.
- Sequential Gearboxes:
- Leftmost pedal is BRAKE, rightmost is throttle, middle is clutch (for a more confortable position for leftfoot braking)
- Auto Clutch, Shifter in "Back and forth" mode. you MUST put the shifter in back n' forth mode for this to work.
- no Downshift blip, no upshift cut.
- Wheel paddle on the LEFT is lights, rightside is horn.
- Flappy-Paddle Gearbox:
- Leftmost pedal is BRAKE, rightmost is throttle, middle is clutch (for a more confortable position for leftfoot braking)
- Shifter NOT used, wheel paddles used in "left to downshift, right to upshift" standard configuration.
- Auto Clutch, no Upshift cut, YES downshift blip (Formula 1s automatically downshift blip for the driver).
FOX, UFR, XFR, FXR, XRR, FZR, MRT all use SEQUENTIAL
(basically, all the GTR's - big and small, plus fox and mrt)
FO8, BF1 - Flappy paddle
All others - Road Cars.
How to install?
Unzip contents into /lfs/data/scripts
BACKUP YOUR OWN SCRIPTS DIRECTORY BEFORE IN CASE IT GOES HORRIBLY WRONG
How to use
Do nothing - when you exit the pits with the car, theres a small message on the top notifying you what gearbox you got, and a reminder to set the g25's degrees of rotation in the profiler. It automatically sets the "controller wheel rotates Xºs" slider for you - to equal the car's wheel rotation.
How to edit? / Dont like your choices / Your brake pedal change is TEH SUCK!!111!!!ELEVEN!!
Go into /lfs/data/scripts, open either paddle.lfs or sequential.lfs or road.lfs (whichever you wanna edit) with a moronic, barely-usable, barely-worth-the-name text editor called notepad, and edit away. Everything is commented and easy to understand. If you have an IQ higher than notepad, you can edit it with no problems.
big thanxs - how do you do the reconfig in the case of seq gears? I change the shifter from H to seq (the hardware bit), but then LFS recognises it as 3rd and 4th gear only. If I do alt+G to change it to "sequencial gears" - it disables the shifter altogether. So I gotta remap the 3rd and 4th position to be "Shift up and Shift down". way too much fuss - any simpler way to do this (btw, gonna check teh script linky now, thxs)
G25 config (NOT the usual "Halp me plaz!" Thread)
Ok, here goes. New G25. I know how to config it.
My questions (and statments) are as follows:
GTRs - (FXR, XRR, FZR) - do you drive with the shifter+clutch or paddles and auto-clutch? And in both, throttle blip on downshift on or of?
In what cars do you lot use the shifter? I find myself only using the shifter for TBO and Standard road cars .
The statement - whenever I drive with the paddles (with auto-clutch), I reconfigure the pedals so I use the CLUTCH as a brake pedal. I change the brake pedal to be the clutch, since Ill only use it for getting off the line. I find I have a much more confortable position using the acelerator and clutch for left foot braking.
And anyone got a way to quickly reconfigure this back to the standard - some way to make "single-seater" profile with clutch as brake, and a "road car" profile to make the pedals be normal again?
My questions (and statments) are as follows:
GTRs - (FXR, XRR, FZR) - do you drive with the shifter+clutch or paddles and auto-clutch? And in both, throttle blip on downshift on or of?
In what cars do you lot use the shifter? I find myself only using the shifter for TBO and Standard road cars .
The statement - whenever I drive with the paddles (with auto-clutch), I reconfigure the pedals so I use the CLUTCH as a brake pedal. I change the brake pedal to be the clutch, since Ill only use it for getting off the line. I find I have a much more confortable position using the acelerator and clutch for left foot braking.
And anyone got a way to quickly reconfigure this back to the standard - some way to make "single-seater" profile with clutch as brake, and a "road car" profile to make the pedals be normal again?
I usually meditate a bit before a race. Dont laugh - its an old habit I picked up from my Quake TF days. It helps. Sit somewhere confortable (For me, the bare floor in a lotus position - legs crossed, wrists on knees). Then breathe in slowloy and out slowly. Image all the tension exiting your body when you exhale. After 1-2 mins, you are very relaxed and youll notice that youll stay focused a lot longer. Its great to prevent nervousness from ruining your race.
And yes, the fastest/best laps your ever gonna do are the ones you wont even remember about - like "new PB: XX:XX:XXX" and you go like "whaaa? what did I do different?"
Youll go a lot faster the more relaxed you are. Look at f1 drivers. They spend 3 HOURS driving within the same SECOND. and they arent exactly going slow. They COULD go faster - usually much faster, but they brake just a tad earlier, accelarate just a tad after and more softly, for 2 reasons: Tyre wear AND consistency. Better to loose .1 secs every lap than going off every 10 laps and loosing a couple seconds.
And yes, the fastest/best laps your ever gonna do are the ones you wont even remember about - like "new PB: XX:XX:XXX" and you go like "whaaa? what did I do different?"
Youll go a lot faster the more relaxed you are. Look at f1 drivers. They spend 3 HOURS driving within the same SECOND. and they arent exactly going slow. They COULD go faster - usually much faster, but they brake just a tad earlier, accelarate just a tad after and more softly, for 2 reasons: Tyre wear AND consistency. Better to loose .1 secs every lap than going off every 10 laps and loosing a couple seconds.
nearly getting decapitated while karting - goin on main straight, flat out, 2 guys in front of me bump, one goes off track and hits a pile of tires. One of those tires came flying at me and hit me right in the noggin. Hurt like HELL (saw stars, even), and damned nearly threw me off the kart. Had to pull over and stop racing. Luckily nothing other than a nasty purple bruise on my neck.
Its amazing how FAST adrenaline shoots up. and how long it can STAY up - I think I only got calmer some 5 hours later in the hospital when they told me everything was fine.
EDIT: a friend of mine that was behind me swears he saw my helmet visor hit near my SHOULDER.
Its amazing how FAST adrenaline shoots up. and how long it can STAY up - I think I only got calmer some 5 hours later in the hospital when they told me everything was fine.
EDIT: a friend of mine that was behind me swears he saw my helmet visor hit near my SHOULDER.
Über leage promo GF - very nice idd.
I like the way you bring the various drivers to life via nicknames. Makes me wanna join and see if I can find recognition for next season
I like the way you bring the various drivers to life via nicknames. Makes me wanna join and see if I can find recognition for next season
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG