heres the accelerator bug in video goodness:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhntrKVvU6A

in this next patch, theres 2 kinds of sequentials:
the FBMW (henceforth, Formula beemer->FeeBeemer) has a non throttle cut sequential, meaning you either lift of the gas to shift up, OR use the clutch and lift (though you can choose not to lift, but will eat up the clutch).
The others (FOX, FB8, FXR, XRR) have a throttle-cut sequential - very much like the current roadcar semi-automatic gearboxes found in the newer cars (like the flappy-paddle citroen c4 picasso, the smart fortwo, and on the other end of the spectrum, the flappy paddles of the maserati, F430 and astons.). These work via a "robot" that engages the clutch, and then changes gears for you. It can range from downright retarded (like in the Smart) or uber highspeed (like in the F430)
In these robotic semi-autos there is no clutch pedal. I believe LFS simulates this kind of tranny, as a regular full auto (torque-converter auto) would be ripped apart by the most powerfull engines. Additionally, these trannys ALSO cut your throttle, so you can keep your foot on the gas to shift up. They do NOT blip on downshift (as in regular driving it would be needed all the time, and "wastes" fuel) but they DO cut. Infact, in most, if you lift off the throttle on upshift it gets confused and leads to quite a jerky shift. (basically, a computer reads how much throttle your putting, and decides to shift quickly or more slowly depending on how much you are throttling (is that a word?). If you lift mid-way through the shift it tries to slow down the shift to match a less sporty driving style.
I have no idea if the Febemer has a clutch pedal IRL, but since you can put in LFS settings "shifter" type transmission and manual clutch and STILL shift without using the clutch pedal, methinks it doesnt, and has a robotic-style semi-auto that has no upshiftcut (and for safety doesnt change up if your on the throttle).

Quote from herki :

That's normal for a car. You don't need to push the accelerator to get going.

No its not. I dunno what kind of car you have, but when I get it going without touching the accelerator (which I regularly do), my ACCELERATOR PEDAL does NOT strat depressing by itself...

Go try to start a car by lifting off the clutch slowly, do NOT touch the accelerator, and the car will start moving (as expected) BUT the green bar starts going up, trying to prevent a stall (as it shoudlnt be)

If you put in a gear with manual gear and clutch, then lift the clutch veeeeeeeery slooooooooowly, the car starts accelerating by itself (as in, it presses the accelerator pedal by itself).
Basically, the THROTTLE is still exibiting the same behaviour as in patch X - just the clutch isnt.

Apparently the new BMW is very close to the fox- cant wait to try both cars in the same track to get a feeling for it. But I can already envision Foxes vs Beemers..... instead of Foxes vs F*cking Oversteering 8's....

do NOT buy a vibrating FFB seat - or else your girlfriend will never seave that seat. Unless you like to live with the constant backgroundnoise of an engine revving and your girlfriend having a lot of fun in a stationary car....

HUGE thanxs - its now working properly. Everything reconfigures automatically as I load the cars up.

Same old adage - when in doubt, READ THE ****ING MANUAL.
Sorry for being dumb.


NOW - to attone for my idiocy, here are my files:


What do they do?
They reconfigure your G25 (only tested with this wheel, use other wheels at your own risk) to automatically use sequential, roadcar, or flappy-paddle gearboxes (f1style), in the following manner:

• Road Cars:
  • Manual Clutch, H-Gate shifter, no Downshift blip, no upshift cut. YOU do everything.
    
  • Wheel paddles on the LEFT is for lights, wheel paddle on the right is the horn.
• Sequential Gearboxes:
  • Leftmost pedal is BRAKE, rightmost is throttle, middle is clutch (for a more confortable position for leftfoot braking)
  • Auto Clutch, Shifter in "Back and forth" mode. you MUST put the shifter in back n' forth mode for this to work.
    
  • no Downshift blip, no upshift cut.
    
  • Wheel paddle on the LEFT is lights, rightside is horn.
• Flappy-Paddle Gearbox:
  • Leftmost pedal is BRAKE, rightmost is throttle, middle is clutch (for a more confortable position for leftfoot braking)
  • Shifter NOT used, wheel paddles used in "left to downshift, right to upshift" standard configuration.
    
  • Auto Clutch, no Upshift cut, YES downshift blip (Formula 1s automatically downshift blip for the driver).

What car does what?
FOX, UFR, XFR, FXR, XRR, FZR, MRT all use SEQUENTIAL
(basically, all the GTR's - big and small, plus fox and mrt)
FO8, BF1 - Flappy paddle
All others - Road Cars.

How to install?
Unzip contents into /lfs/data/scripts

BACKUP YOUR OWN SCRIPTS DIRECTORY BEFORE IN CASE IT GOES HORRIBLY WRONG

How to use
Do nothing - when you exit the pits with the car, theres a small message on the top notifying you what gearbox you got, and a reminder to set the g25's degrees of rotation in the profiler. It automatically sets the "controller wheel rotates Xºs" slider for you - to equal the car's wheel rotation.

How to edit? / Dont like your choices / Your brake pedal change is TEH SUCK!!111!!!ELEVEN!!
Go into /lfs/data/scripts, open either paddle.lfs or sequential.lfs or road.lfs (whichever you wanna edit) with a moronic, barely-usable, barely-worth-the-name text editor called notepad, and edit away. Everything is commented and easy to understand. If you have an IQ higher than notepad, you can edit it with no problems.

big thanxs - how do you do the reconfig in the case of seq gears? I change the shifter from H to seq (the hardware bit), but then LFS recognises it as 3rd and 4th gear only. If I do alt+G to change it to "sequencial gears" - it disables the shifter altogether. So I gotta remap the 3rd and 4th position to be "Shift up and Shift down". way too much fuss - any simpler way to do this (btw, gonna check teh script linky now, thxs)

Ok, here goes. New G25. I know how to config it.
My questions (and statments) are as follows:

GTRs - (FXR, XRR, FZR) - do you drive with the shifter+clutch or paddles and auto-clutch? And in both, throttle blip on downshift on or of?

In what cars do you lot use the shifter? I find myself only using the shifter for TBO and Standard road cars .

The statement - whenever I drive with the paddles (with auto-clutch), I reconfigure the pedals so I use the CLUTCH as a brake pedal. I change the brake pedal to be the clutch, since Ill only use it for getting off the line. I find I have a much more confortable position using the acelerator and clutch for left foot braking.
And anyone got a way to quickly reconfigure this back to the standard - some way to make "single-seater" profile with clutch as brake, and a "road car" profile to make the pedals be normal again?

I usually meditate a bit before a race. Dont laugh - its an old habit I picked up from my Quake TF days. It helps. Sit somewhere confortable (For me, the bare floor in a lotus position - legs crossed, wrists on knees). Then breathe in slowloy and out slowly. Image all the tension exiting your body when you exhale. After 1-2 mins, you are very relaxed and youll notice that youll stay focused a lot longer. Its great to prevent nervousness from ruining your race.

And yes, the fastest/best laps your ever gonna do are the ones you wont even remember about - like "new PB: XX:XX:XXX" and you go like "whaaa? what did I do different?"

Youll go a lot faster the more relaxed you are. Look at f1 drivers. They spend 3 HOURS driving within the same SECOND. and they arent exactly going slow. They COULD go faster - usually much faster, but they brake just a tad earlier, accelarate just a tad after and more softly, for 2 reasons: Tyre wear AND consistency. Better to loose .1 secs every lap than going off every 10 laps and loosing a couple seconds.

nearly getting decapitated while karting - goin on main straight, flat out, 2 guys in front of me bump, one goes off track and hits a pile of tires. One of those tires came flying at me and hit me right in the noggin. Hurt like HELL (saw stars, even), and damned nearly threw me off the kart. Had to pull over and stop racing. Luckily nothing other than a nasty purple bruise on my neck.

Its amazing how FAST adrenaline shoots up. and how long it can STAY up - I think I only got calmer some 5 hours later in the hospital when they told me everything was fine.

EDIT: a friend of mine that was behind me swears he saw my helmet visor hit near my SHOULDER.

Über leage promo GF - very nice idd.
I like the way you bring the various drivers to life via nicknames. Makes me wanna join and see if I can find recognition for next season

Driver A for sure. I've overtaken there several times - if the driver being overtaken has some sense, two cars CAN pass there.
A should have left enough room at the apex. B then had to leave room in the next apex.

Its not a matter of whether its a good place to overtake - the problem was the resulting contact. the ONLY place that is bad to overtake is in pit entry/exit - the ONLY place where 2 cars just wont fit.

I've been overtaken (and overtaken) in SO1 infamous chicane, in AS1 fast chicane in the fox (t2 and T3). I've driven two LAPS of South City Long side-by-side with no contact. That includes the hairpin, the weird left-left-right chicane in the middle of the circuit. The only time in those 2 laps I wasn't side-by-side was in the main straight.
If both drivers observer clean driver rules, you can be side-by-side ANYWHERE.


When you are being overtaken, you ARE going to loose time. Be it by defending your position (taking a non-optimal line through corners to negate inside overtaking underbraking), or by leaving room to the other car (taking a non-optimal line).

This guy fails, but THIS guy: http://futuremark.yougamers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23914

Fails WAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more.

Lol...

That looks like something an AMERICAN would make:
Grab a car that cant corner _AT ALL_ , stick the biggest engine you can find in it, then proclaim it the best car of all time!

So this is my first go at a decent lfs movie. Did I hit the mark? Should I consider a career in fishing instead?


High qual (150megs)
http://files.filefront.com/Lfs ... i/;8839230;/fileinfo.html

Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABJMYRuP3po

I usuall either go very WIDE, on the outside, starting the turn-in later than usual (so Im on the outside of the big apex crashes), or go heavy throught the inside, brake a lot, and do the turn very slowly on the apex, putting the power down early. But in any case, be very very humble and carefull. The choice of going wide or inside is usually the amount of drivers doing the same. If I got anyone in front of me for the inside, I switch to the outside.

The problem with the outside aproach is that usually you get bumped into the grass by ppl exiting the turn that didnt see you/dont care.
My trick?

Do the turn wide, and as soon as you reach the place where the normal racing line hits the edge of the road, open your ears. They have to leave you room on the outside so as soon as you hear an engine sound coming from the inside be ready to turn HARD into the car thats about to hit you. If when he hits you you are turning into him, you dont move much. He will be worse for wear, but at least you didnt eat grass because he neglected to see if he could move onto the outside.


The normal racing line is Outside / Inside / Outside.

T1 racing line is 3 options:
Outside/Outside/Outside -> Clip the outside kerb on entry and exit, stay wide of the dark rubber marks of the turn racing line
Middle/Middle/Middle -> Stay exatcly on the middle of the road at all times, equidistant from boths sides.
Inside/Inside/Inside -> you move along the inside edge of the track and do NOT move outside when the turn is over.

Outside drivers will enter faster and exit faster of the turn, but travel more distance
Middle drivers will be generally the fastests, but will feel like they are in a bumper-car competition
Inside drivers will gain some positions, only to loose them all on turn exit.

Remeber the racing line you chose, and stick to it. For example, If your on the middle do NOT clip the apex or the outside kerb. People WILL be there.

Quote from the_angry_angel :

"free the mallocs" springs to mind Sorry, that's a terribly geeky and sad joke. It does demonstrate the importance of good practise though - make sure you always destroy, or mark as unused, what you no longer need to use. This goes for scripting and memory managed languages as well as non-memory managed programs.

Any good programmer should TATTOO this on their body. Preferably on the hands.

My custom FXR for the portuguese league:

(no skin files as I want this one for myself, besides, the skin clearly states "Skin by the Stig" on the doors, and you wouldnt want to drive around in that, would you?)

Sorry for being an ass, but.. I don't see the point of the Prius.

My dad's 8 year old Citroen Saxo Diesel averages 4.2l/100kms - and this over the last year.

My previous car (Peugeot 206 1.4Hdi) did a whopping 3.9l/100kms - when I was really paying attention (unfortunatly, the way I usually drive, it was more close to 5l/100 - but thats really pushing all the 75hp out of the engine at all times )

why do you think I asked for vendor url's ?

No spanish ppl wanna help?

Quote from UncleBenny :

shouldn't this be in the wheels/controllers forum

Heh.. silly me. :worried:
I never noticed that below "general disc", begginer forum tech support and programmer forms there were... other forums

As one spanish player quite accuretly put it, driving from portugal to spain, buying my wheel there, refuelling my car to the brim (and the 5 20liter jugs Ill bring along) and returning might actually be cheaper than buying one of those wheels in portugal.
Normal retail prices:
Momo: 152.99€
G25: 309€

Cheapest I found (off the main retailstores)
Momo: 125€
G25: 280€ (275€ for a g25 imported from.. spain )


So here's my question: Can any of you spanish people point me to a spanish retailer that has these wheels so I can compare prices? (Like portugals www.fnac.pt, www.worten.pt, www.chip7.pt).
AND (very important here) WHERE near the border can I find someplace selling these. I dont wanna go to madrid just to buy the friggin' wheel...

As editor goes, choose emacs! You can do just about anything with emacs!
provided you spend 28 years learning how to use it, ofc.

XRG = Porsche 944, Mitsubishi Starion.