Just to clarify, not only DFGT uses that driver, G25 and G27 uses the same old driver, 5.10.127. Logitech does not discriminate by price, they just don't bother at all xD

The driver is pretty much fine, as always, though it sometimes messes up and recognise G27 as DFP and you have to tinker around until it somehow fixes itself. But I insist that this hardly ever happens, and when it does is a global issue, so it is related to Windows Updates or something that Logitech does remotely.

Well, more expensive thrustmaster stuff has a reputation for being really good quality, cheaper stuff, meh quality. This one looks to have a better wheel but rubbish pedals (if you get the T150 try getting better pedals). I used my old £50, crappy 90 degree thrustmaster wheel loads (each month saw about 30 hours of use) for a year, until the clamp broke, that is an easy fix but a few weeks later the pedals packed in... Then i got a G27 . These pedals look the same (might not be), they are really quite bad quality (plasticy, light weight and barely stayed still even on carpet), but, the wheel should be good quality as it is part of the 'txxx' range. Having said all of that, the DFGT pedals probably aren't that much better, i am sure you could ask someone that has owned/owns a DFGT to get their opinions.

Last edited by k_badam, Tue 25 Oct 2016, 22:17.

Quote from k_badam :

if you are gonna buy a wheel for around £100 buy a thrustmaster t150, it will be new so you get that and it is better than the DFGT

Well, i have to say you inspired me to do some research, and im seriously thinking about changing my DFGT for T150 from what i've read it's smoother and quieter than g27 and g29, not even talking about that screaming DFGT . Also paddles are real paddles, not just buttons, shame it doesn't have shifter, since im mostly using it. But how about pedals compared to DFGT? Did you use T150, or anyone else can tell something?

@johneysvk i think you should rly think about T150, it might be better than DFGT

I have DFGT and in lfs i was always using shifter instead of "paddles", for me it's much more comfortable. Beside that my paddles are dead, since i was raping them hard while playing F1 from codemaster . I can repair them, have new buttons already, they are cheap, just few cents. They're same buttons like in your mouse for right/left button.
Huge advantage for DFGT is that it has a lot of buttons, and most of them are really comfortable to use while driving. I had up to 7 or 8 binded msgs set on it, which i could use while driving easly + gears on shifter + handrake on "x" + ignition, restart race, return to pit, horn, cluch on up arrow (left side of wheel), change camera, f9 menu (tyres), and probably few more which i don't remember. All of them binded to wheel and easy to press while driving. I think it beats most of other wheels possibilities while comes to buttons, and how easy they are to find/press while driving. And i forgot to mention that it's rare situation that you have to change gear in the middle of a corner, and even if that happens, then for me it's not a big deal to drive using one hand for 1 or 2 secs. It even gives extra satisfaction and reality feeling

Some time ago i was searching for new wheel and i was confused, because g25 for me don't have enough buttons, and g27 have only h-shifter or paddles, not sequential shifter which i want to use. And i still don't know what to do sice my DFGT is slowly dying (that wheel is like 6 years with me already, and i bought used one ) But you can be sure DFGT is great wheel, and it gives you a lot of possibilities to configure in the way you like, with all that buttons it has. Paddles are small, and it may look like they're hard to use, but it isn't that bad. Ofc big paddles are better, but the ones that DFGT have are also good. And driving with shifter isn't hard too, it's just matter of getting used to it.

PS. If you will decide to buy it, it has like one well known issue. The pedals, they're good until they'll break And they usually break pretty fast, but you will find a lot of tutorials, on how to deal with it, on the web. Also suprisingly my pedals have over 6 years (maybe 6.5y or maybe 7.5y, dunno), and they work. Sure they have some glitter and other issues, and it's getting worse and worse, but im still able to race normally, and im not even noticing that something is wrong, sometimes cleaning the inside of them helps.

Cheers, Anici<3

Last edited by Razor1373, Wed 19 Oct 2016, 17:58.

i'm looking at second hand market, they usually go for round 80 euros here, ideally i'd like to get a G27 i think, but can't justify paying 2 times more

Yes, mine did too - and it reset my G27 to a DFGT again...

Quote from Postman Pat :

Indeed. And a lot of us won't use a monitor for sims now we've experienced it. Apart from the 'being in the car' aspect rather than watching, the sense of speed on a monitor is so distorted as you slow down it jars.

My dad, who is new to racing sims and gaming in general, went instantly quicker in VR than he could 'driving the TV'. In trying to set up a multiplayer LAN game using two PC's and two nearly identical wheels G25/G27, he was over a second per lap quicker in the identical car and setup when in the Oculus, to the point it meant we couldn't really fairly race each other. More than that though, it was far more consistent in VR, where as in 2D, he could sometimes luck into an equally fast lap almost from muscle memory.

I could have eventually gotten the exact same laptime out of the 2D setup that I could from 3D, but it would have been from a lot of circulating and getting a feel for car placement from pure repetitive experience. In VR you're just 'there' and turning points and car placement is obvious from the first lap. You can literally look further up the track at where you want to be and just drive that line, rather than having to learn through repetition where to turn in and what line to drive for the best exit. I find being able to look far ahead crucial for finding the line, even with DK2's poor resolution it helps me. The view turn with wheel turn 2D compromise makes it harder for me to feel which way the car is going. Using the buttons to look is clunky as you don't get to chose which part of the side window you're looking through.

I don't want to go back to a monitor after using VR, just like I don't want to go back to my original LFS joystick throttle and mouse steering setup after using a FF wheel!

You can learn to be fast on any equipment, a mouse and keyboard with a 12" CRT monitor, in a game with weird feedback etc. But I think a decent force-feedback wheel is more intuitive to someone used to driving a car, and a decent VR setup is more intuitive for someone used to having two eyes and a neck.

Scawen, I think you need to point out (somewhere that everyone will see) that starting from this version, we no longer need to change wheel steering limit anymore in drivers, but should rather set it to maximum, and then set up LFS properly, so it will automatically match steering degrees for every car.

Wheel turn = same as in drivers (which should be set to maximum, 900 for G27 wheel for example)
Wheel turn compensation = 1

Because a lot of people used to have turn compensation 0 and had to change steering angle in drivers to match the car's steering, otherwise real steering wheel would turn freely past the limits.

Now the life is much simplier, but not everyone might know it

Quote from Rascar13 :

Although i've got an issue that started in P3. With my G27, the shifter mapping keeps resetting every time i join the track, and it's in some weird config where 1st shifter position is 2nd gear and two of the shifter positions are 4th gear and so on. I try to change this but it keeps going back every time, which gets annoying.

I've tried the G27 now and it seems to be working as normal.

Ah... I've just thought of one thing that might be causing your problem. The button numbers have been changed (in P2). They did start at zero before but now they start at 1. So that means if you have any scripts (data\scripts) that use the /axis or /button commands, you need to increase the axis or button numbers.

e.g. /button 8 gear_1 should now be /button 9 gear_1

In the polish translation I observed a small grammar issue related to the mirrors. The "left" and "right" text for the mirror adjustment are actually under the same code as the other menu options like fps counter placement, virtual startlights and minimap (3a_smalleft/3a_smalrght in the language file). In the PL translation, those are translated to "po lewej" and "po prawej" (literally "ON THE left" and "ON THE right"), which are correct for those settings, but seems kinda weird when it's related to the mirrors, as the more natural and commonly used translation would be just "lewe" and "prawe" ("left" or "right" literally). I'm not saying this is incorrect, and I'm not also sure if this issue is just in polish translation or in other languages as well, but it just seems a bit weird for me as it is right now, so if mirror adjustment text would be under different code in the language file, it would solve the issue, as it would make it possible to translate it separately. Attatched screenshots for reference.

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BTW, about the G27 issue, I've played the entire day today without any problems, both offline and online.

Quote from Degats :

IRL all car mirrors are convex; the wing mirrors moreso than the centre.

From my research, the interior mirror fitted to road cars by default is always flat, so that the distance perception is unchanged and you can see a long way behind. In the USA, the driver side exterior mirror must also be flat, though this is not the case in Europe. In the USA, the passenger side mirror (which must be convex because otherwise it is useless) has text on it saying "objects in mirror are closer than they appear". My understanding is this is the only mirror allowed to be convex on a car for the US market.

I agree the shape of the interior mirror is often tailored to suit the shape and size of the rear window.

I have seen the wide angle curved ones that are often fitted in racing cars, but up to now I have avoided the additional work of coding for a convex mirror option for interior mirrors. Instead, we just put some wider flat mirrors in the GTR cars.

Quote from Rascar13 :

Although i've got an issue that started in P3. With my G27, the shifter mapping keeps resetting every time i join the track, and it's in some weird config where 1st shifter position is 2nd gear and two of the shifter positions are 4th gear and so on. I try to change this but it keeps going back every time, which gets annoying.

That is strange. I'll plug in the G27 tomorrow and see if it happens to me. Does anyone else have any controller problems?

Liking the new features so far.

Although i've got an issue that started in P3. With my G27, the shifter mapping keeps resetting every time i join the track, and it's in some weird config where 1st shifter position is 2nd gear and two of the shifter positions are 4th gear and so on. I try to change this but it keeps going back every time, which gets annoying.

Quote from adammcbomb :

I've only ever had a G25. Bought the day it came out and still using it. And if I'm reading you right, I think you may be incorrect. The G25 has and always has had a "soft locking position" to help denote where the rotation in-game ends. So for instance, if I set the ingame rotation to 600, I will notice a VERY STRONG force (simulating a lock) once I hit that 600 degree mark on either side. Perhaps it doesnt work as well as the newer wheels (I dont know) but it does exist as a feature on the G25.

We were speaking of a soft limit when turning the full 900 degrees. On the G25 you just hit the plastic on the end, on the G27 the force feedback actually slows you quite a bit a few degrees earlier, so you don't knock so hard.

It is the same limit as you say, but on the G25 it is only done when the wheel is limited to less than 900 degrees, on the G27 it also appears at about 890~895 no matter what you set.

I am having a seriously bad time here, I finally bought a g27 after playing with a buddy on his for years. And my luck I plug up everything and get profiler and I'm having like half a second of lag for any input. Steering, pedals, and shifter all have like a half a second lag. I'm seriously about to hang myself.

so after replacing my logitech g27 rotary encoder with the brass one because the plastic one snapped after playing like 8hrs straight my wheel decided that nothing on it wanted to work anymore, so my wheel was just sitting there for about 5 months or so and when the part arrived i replaced it and the wheel would not respond and i relised i hadn't installed it correctly so away i went to fix it properly and now the wheel wont stay centered and also i have no H-shifter or clutch on anything not just LFS if i move my wheel to the left then quick go to the right it would just lose the center alignment also there is a picture of the g27 in the profiler but theres no axis for a clutch and none of the buttons respond to any test in the shifter at all and i have tried to calibrate it but nothing happens, i hope someone can help me.

Ps. i hope you can understand it

EDIT: i managed to fix the calibrating problem by moving the encoder wheel closer to the infrared lights just the shifter will no work or anything just shows led.

Last edited by scarychipmunk, Wed 17 Aug 2016, 14:45.

I have posted this in Test Patch as well, but it might be a general issue.

I had to contact Logitech about my G27 because of calibration issues and they "upgraded" me to a G29. However when I try using it in LFS I can't get FFB to work. LFS reports:

"CreateEffect failed (0 axes)"
"Could not setup FF steer device"

I've tried using both device 1 and 2 for the FF device and the G29 is listed first on the controller list so I'd expect 1 to be the proper device, but doesn't work.

The FFB of the G29 works as expected in iRacing.

I'm going to post this in issues as well, since I am actually NOT on the test patch but am using 0.6P so it might be unrelated to test patch.

I had to contact Logitech about my G27 because of calibration issues and they "upgraded" me to a G29. However when I try using it in LFS I can't get FFB to work. LFS reports:

"CreateEffect failed (0 axes)"
"Could not setup FF steer device"

I've tried using both device 1 and 2 for the FF device and the G29 is listed first on the controller list so I'd expect 1 to be the proper device, but doesn't work.

-----------------------

Also, I came back after running LFS for a very long time and everything was running just fine on the track. Rendering as expected. I then ended the race, (or went to pits?), and got to see the attached view. Again this was 0.6P and unfortunately I don't have any information on how/why it happened, just fyi. I'll keep an eye out.


----

EDIT: If possible I have a few feature requests:
- A command to add an AI car of set difficulty, might be tricky now that there is /ai name, but I'd really like the ability to: "/ai easy /ai hard" or even use a number.
- In the back of my head I was digging into making a realtime telemetry tool, it sure would be nice if OutGaugePack had included steering wheel angle, but I suspect that is a PAIN to change since it would effect others using it by changing size.
- Any chance of an InSim message, or a command to print the locally used setup? I know you can see it on F12, but that doesn't help my AIRS driver safety check that it used the correct setup. To be fair I understand if that would be a waste of your time since I'm probably the only one to find this useful. I had hoped that it was in Display2[] on OutGuagePack but no such luck.

Last edited by blackbird04217, Sun 14 Aug 2016, 11:42.

I had a problem similar to this when, for some unknown reason, my wheel's drivers thought my G27 was a Driving Force. Same thing with the combined throttle/brake. I had to deinstall and reinstall the drivers for it, but it did fix the problem in the end.

Not sure if this'll help - I've never heard of Drift Oz, so not sure what their driver support is like...

i think this one maximises the tires more. it chirps sometimes but still needs work of course. a little bit of understeer to dial out still but gets to the apex pretty well

using G27 with 773 degrees of rotation
725 in-game degrees
compensation 0
force strength 12

i can upload the replay later. internet sux right now

in-game username:wy-always-me
County: The Netherlands
Prev Teams: N/A
Current team: N/A
Accomplishments: slow drifts, drifting without handbrake, making decent tunes,with my old wheel really good reverse entry's (practicing it with my new wheel), pretty good XRG drifter, good XRT drifter
Years drifting: +-5 years, few months on G27 now

Last edited by wy-always-me, Wed 6 Jul 2016, 19:31.

Select audio device is a very welcome addition for those with multiple soundcards . The soft lock is nice. I think the g27 uses the spring to limit lock, so it feels harder than the motors.

As far as the shifting issue, (not related to patch) I've only encountered problems in FBM and FJR and only upshifts. I think shifting 2 gears at a time could be a controller issue.

Quote from UnknownMaster21 :

Noticed that my F710 does not always shift up or shift down, when pressing buttons.
There is 2 reasons for that:

1. Buttons are worn out, and not function properly.
2. it is LFS-sided issue.

I've noticed something truly weird on several occasions with my G27, but it's intermittent and so I've never been able to work out a cause and have therefore never reported it. However, this post makes me wonder if it's connected...

Now and then when I pull the paddle to shift, mostly (always?) up-shifts, I get a brief raise in the revs but no up-shift - rather like a botched manual shift where the clutch wasn't down fully and the driver couldn't mechanically pull the gear lever across. The revs clearly respond so the program has noticed a button press...

It has probably happened maybe 20 times in total, spread over many months.

My previous wheel had a switch bounce problem (fixed by replacing a faulty switch) on down-shifts (lethal to engine) but I was able to mitigate that somewhat by using the debounce delay option. Very clearly a wheel issue, unlike the weirdness on my current wheel.

This problem is weird and I have no clue about what could be causing it other than a bug...? Surely the game doesn't produce bad shifts if the button isn't down for long enough?

I am not sure it has ever happened in single player or the SPR would perhaps be enlightening. Not certain I ever checked an MPR for it but I guess it would be useless anyway.

G27 is out of production, instead look for G29(PS4) or G920(Xbox).

I wouldn't touch Fanatec's cheaper wheels. They aren't that good value.

T300 and T500 are both much better than G27 but T300 has worse pedals and they don't have H-shifter included.

it can also be an alternative wheel, but must be atleast as good as the g27

Is fanatec a good producer? if yes could you prefer me something?