The online racing simulator
Kunos Simulazioni - Assetto Corsa
(8873 posts, started )
Quote from sinbad :
Yes, same question here. I know it is supposed to prevent signals being sent to the wheel which are less than the wheel is capable of translating into feel. It should tighten up the feel around the center if set correctly.

However, I don't know what the numbers/scale represents, so I don't know what it is I'm setting, and I couldn't get it to feel radically different with high or low values.

Try to wind up the minimum force into a value where your wheel starts to oscillate a bit, when you're standing still. Then decrease it until your wheel comes to a standstill. That should be your sweetspot, this method worked atleast on setting up minimum steering torque on rF2 and it feels to work somewhat here too.
Oscillations of ffb can be an ffb filter issue. If your ffb filter is too high it basically starts cutting low frequency ffb signals which means you get these huge left right oscillations when going through turns. Too low and you get random oscillations, vibrations all the time. The filter is basically a low pass filter. The higher you set it the less ffb signals get through. Basically higher setting = low pass filter cutoff is at lower frequency and only signals with lower frequency get through.

First you lose small pebbles on the road and random shaking. Then you lose bumps. And after a while you lose the body movement too. So it is basically like a zombie virus. At 0% filter you basically get a car that feels like a zombie from the movie 28 days later. Super aggressive, outruns an average family sedan, straight to the jugular. At high filter you get more of the resident evil type slow lumbering ffb. After you go past certain limit you are into the blob territory. Big mushy movements of the wheel only responding to the sun and moon gravity.
Quote from Hyperactive :Oscillations of ffb can be an ffb filter issue. If your ffb filter is too high it basically starts cutting low frequency ffb signals which means you get these huge left right oscillations when going through turns. Too low and you get random oscillations, vibrations all the time. The filter is basically a low pass filter. The higher you set it the less ffb signals get through. Basically higher setting = low pass filter cutoff is at lower frequency and only signals with lower frequency get through.

First you lose small pebbles on the road and random shaking. Then you lose bumps. And after a while you lose the body movement too. So it is basically like a zombie virus. At 0% filter you basically get a car that feels like a zombie from the movie 28 days later. Super aggressive, outruns an average family sedan, straight to the jugular. At high filter you get more of the resident evil type slow lumbering ffb. After you go past certain limit you are into the blob territory. Big mushy movements of the wheel only responding to the sun and moon gravity.

This description acutally made me laugh Big grin
That Jag is good, thank you for it. Smile
Anyone here had to deal with microstuttering on an Nvidia card?

I just switched to GTX 970 from a HD7790...Why is it that I need at least 180 fps for the game to feel smooth now??

40 fps on the 7790 was smoother than 120 fps on the 970.
Quote from PhilS13 :Anyone here had to deal with microstuttering on an Nvidia card?

I just switched to GTX 970 from a HD7790...Why is it that I need at least 180 fps for the game to feel smooth now??

40 fps on the 7790 was smoother than 120 fps on the 970.

try to limite fps's to 60.
Quote from lfsrm :
Quote from PhilS13 :Anyone here had to deal with microstuttering on an Nvidia card?

I just switched to GTX 970 from a HD7790...Why is it that I need at least 180 fps for the game to feel smooth now??

40 fps on the 7790 was smoother than 120 fps on the 970.

try to limite fps's to 60.

Yes it makes everything much more fluid but since it's not pure vsync I always get a huge tear which will stick at the same height for a very long time or move slowly up/down. Right now I'm resigned to use Vsync and deal with the input lag that comes with it.

Somehow with the AMD card I didn't need vsync and the GPU was able to smooth things out to the eye even with much poorer FPS.
Can you run something like 83 fps or 57? At least that should make the screen tearing go away.
Try 54 if your monitor is 60 hz. Have no idea why 54, but i saw that mentioned somewhere, and it works.
I use Vsync, only works if u drive with the virtual wheel turned off
Btw, don't know how i ever drove any other way. Turned off the virtual wheel, set up the FOV and monitor position so the gauges are behind my real wheel, it's like i'm in the damn car.. Immersion over 9000.
Use a FPS limiter that's higher than the refresh rate of your physical panel. Avoid small integer ratios. 60fps on 60fps panel is a bad idea, as Hyperactive pointed out. And 100(5:3) or 80(4:3) is better than 90(3:2).

If you set it below physical refresh rate you would be wasting your frames.
83 fps isn't smooth enough. Trees in the background jerking in their left-right motion in long sweeping corners. Three 60hz panels. I'm not very sensitive to tearing.

Hiding the steering wheel won't change input lag with V-sync on. I wanna be able to catch slides..

I will try to cap FPS at a lower rate than 60Hz. I dont mind wasting some frames. I just want things to move at a constant rate.
go look at the screen option in LFS, and see the minimum hz your monitor can support ( for me it's 56hz at 800*600 ) and try to lock fps at, that work well for me even if i didn't see much difference compared to 60fps lock.
also why in lfs there is no accurate fps limiter ?
How do one lower brakes power? I tried Formula Abarath at Blackwood and was locking my wheels like after 3 meters pressing the brakes. It is so painful to drive that way..
You can only alter the pedal curve, afaik. So you can change where the sensitivity is, and have a pedal that won't lock the wheels so easily at the top of its travel, but it ultimately has the same braking force when pressed all the way so the bottom of the travel becomes much harder to use.
It's not the only adjustment that can be made. Drag the small white boxes next to 0% and 100% to change the minimum and maximum range of any axis.

Example:
- Assume that your braking curve is linear (1% pedal travel = 1% of maximum braking force).
- If you drag the range box from 100% to 80%, your maximum braking force is 80%.
So, reduce the maximum braking force until you no longed lock up "too often". Obviously the actual maximum braking force won't be equal to the maximum range if your braking curve isn't linear.

Example 2:
- Your pedals are old and they spike badly when fully pressed down and when not pressed at all.
- Reduce maximum axis range and increase minimum axis range until spiking isn't noticeable in the pedals app.
Attached images
ac-axis-range.png
That is not really a good idea, as you are wasting pedal travel, which reduces the precision on braking, nor is it a solution as it just messes up with the Axis settings and you will actually reach 100% brake force at 80% pedal movement, which will be even worse. Not to mention load-cell pedals, which goes mad when touching those. Easier way is learning some pedal control and practice until getting it right. It comes handy in every simulator.
Quote from PhilS13 :Hiding the steering wheel won't change input lag with V-sync on. I wanna be able to catch slides..

I am catching slides easily with the Vsync on. I can't feel the difference, yes there is a tiny lag, but the only way I can notice it, is when the virtual wheel is on, when I switch it off my brain just adapts, because there is no visual reference.
Quote from Boris Lozac :Btw, don't know how i ever drove any other way. Turned off the virtual wheel, set up the FOV and monitor position so the gauges are behind my real wheel, it's like i'm in the damn car.. Immersion over 9000.

I drive the exact same way, only my immersion is just 3000, because of the single 24' monitor Frown waiting for the CV1
I'm on a single 23" monitor. Thought i would not get used to the fact that i don't quite see the whole right side of the car, but it's not an issue at all, i just feel the car and where it ends.

I also upped the game with my onboard camera videos, with lens distortion and all that Smile (i have no idea why i enjoy posting them to YT though :/ )

Yes!
Not a huge race car guy, but that 787b thing is just toooo awesome
physics 10/10
interior sound 11/10
exterior sound 8/10 - I want it to be louder, IRL you can hear it miles away

epic pic by snickz

*Also the Jag is great, really digging it.
Quote from kars19 :
Quote from PhilS13 :Hiding the steering wheel won't change input lag with V-sync on. I wanna be able to catch slides..

I am catching slides easily with the Vsync on. I can't feel the difference, yes there is a tiny lag, but the only way I can notice it, is when the virtual wheel is on, when I switch it off my brain just adapts, because there is no visual reference.

I'll drive for a while with the lag and see how it goes. What do you do when you have shift LEDs on the steering wheel ? The 458 GT2 for example has very low rpm optimal shift points and the in-game apps are useless in telling you when to shift in that car.

Setting FPS cap below panel refresh rate didn't help in getting things to move smoothly.

I still don't know why the AMD card was better at hiding the stuttering. Maybe it had an inherent blurriness that covered things up a bit.

Thanks everyone for the help

Kunos Simulazioni - Assetto Corsa
(8873 posts, started )
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