This?

that looks good
The BMW wheels however don't on the MG

cleaned her a bit after beeing on vacation..

big like

Damn it looks so clean and those black rims fit it so well.

Black on black

best colour combo for a car. All it needs is darker tint imo

Quote from Klutch :

How is it dangerous?

You call that stupid, i call that nothing

Blown engines, blown parts, blown bank statement.

My buddy was boosted in a 3 sedan 2.0, that turbo ran him about 12k in debt.
Fortunately his engine still works.

Minus some blown gaskets, a warped to shit header, a broken 3rd gear, a destroyed ECU, and miscellaneous other things.

Quote from XCNuse :

Blown engines, blown parts, blown bank statement.

My buddy was boosted in a 3 sedan 2.0, that turbo ran him about 12k in debt.
Fortunately his engine still works.

Minus some blown gaskets, a warped to shit header, a broken 3rd gear, a destroyed ECU, and miscellaneous other things.

why not go the other route and put in a cosmo lump and destroy sh*t the n/a route...


inb4 Anti-washing machine rants

Quote from theirishnoob :

why not go the other route and put in a cosmo lump and destroy sh*t the n/a route...


inb4 Anti-washing machine rants

why is it that you constantly post
yet still have nothing to say

Quote from XCNuse :

Blown engines, blown parts, blown bank statement.

My buddy was boosted in a 3 sedan 2.0, that turbo ran him about 12k in debt.
Fortunately his engine still works.

Minus some blown gaskets, a warped to shit header, a broken 3rd gear, a destroyed ECU, and miscellaneous other things.

Blown engine = Multiple reasons, you can't put it down to "It blew up because it had a turbo"
Blown parts = Shit/China parts
Blown bank statement = Dont buy shit you can't afford.
Yeah, turbo'ing N\A cars properly are expensive. Who'd have thunk?

Blown gaskets = Depends what type of gasket we're talking...
Warped manifold = Stop buying china parts
A broken 3rd gear = treat the car nicely or get an aftermarket gearset



If you do it properly, all of that shit can be avoided. if you cheap out and don't do it properly, those issues will arise.

Those were all the OEM Mazda engine block parts that got destroyed.

blown piston rings too.


Yes I blame the transmission on him lol, but it goes out on Speed 3s too, it's the weak link.


He did everything the right way, he just pushed it way to hard.. way to often. And none of the parts he used were cheap, I promise you that.

@theirishnoob; I'm staying N/A route but it's insanely more expensive. But.. all good things will take time. Honestly after a long time when I can afford it and have a house and a second car and the engine goes to shits I want to rebuild an MZR full of cossy parts. The guy I bought the roll bar from is up in PA and he's doing a full N/A build. I haven't asked how much money (I know it's a lot) but he's going to start doing hill climb races in his car. But yeah, he's got things I don't even know of. It is putting down over 300hp or so, it will keep up / slightly in front of a Speed 3 until the Speed tops out.

Quote from Klutch :

Blown engine = Multiple reasons, you can't put it down to "It blew up because it had a turbo"
Blown parts = Shit/China parts
Blown bank statement = Dont buy shit you can't afford.
Yeah, turbo'ing N\A cars properly are expensive. Who'd have thunk?

Blown gaskets = Depends what type of gasket we're talking...
Warped manifold = Stop buying china parts
A broken 3rd gear = treat the car nicely or get an aftermarket gearset



If you do it properly, all of that shit can be avoided. if you cheap out and don't do it properly, those issues will arise.

You talk a lot of BS when the day is long...

Blown parts on a boosted engine often means blown OEM parts that couldn't handle the additional power. This applies to 99% of people who install an aftermarket turbo setup to their cars, since most people just buy bolt on kits and have no idea what they are doing.

To properly tune a car with a turbo setup means more than bolting on a few parts (even if they are not cheap parts made in china as you say). If you do it properly, you look at an almost new engine compared to the stock engine it once was... the average joe doesn't do this, hence why so many are on their 2nd, 3rd, etc. engine.

Even if you go all the way and update your engine with expensive parts to handle the additional power, you would usually end up with a high-maintenance engine which will inevitably be more expensive to maintain compared to a stock engine from the factory.

There's a few exceptions like the 944 turbo which was built for more power than it had when it left the factory (built for cup races where they ran over 300hp, but the street version was detuned to 250hp... engine internals could easily handle a little more boost when chipped later), but generally speaking, stock engines are not built to handle much more power than they already have.

Just because everybody tells you it's fine, doesn't mean it'll still be fine 20'000km or 50'000km later.

Take an S2000 for example, forged internals and all that jazz from the factory... people will tell you it can handle up to 600hp when boosted... most people run around 350-400hp. Nobody is talking about problems.
But if you dig a little deeper, you'll find that many people have to replace their engine about 40'000km after they boosted the car. Stock engines hold up 200'000km and more easily.

XCNuse is right, boosted cars are expensive and "dangerous" (if you want to call it like that, personally i wouldn't say dangerous, but they'll break down earlier compared to when you leave the engines stock). Which is of course no issue if you have enough money to blow on a new engine every 50'000km.

A boosted engine always will go sooner than N/A. especially when u just put bolt on turbos without a proper headgasket or no gasket at all. but a turboed engine is always more fun.i want one too,but the cheapest proper kit is 5 grand $

Im very experienced in turbo cars man..and i never said turbo cars wouldn't break down more, theres more parts to go wrong so of course things will happen.

But if you're tinkering with cars in the first place turbo's really aren't that much more expensive if properly maintained, and as for dangerous...? not at all lol


and all your comments just re-inforced everything i said, which is why i said do a turbo setup PROPERLY. upgrade EVERYTHING, not just jump to a new turbo, wind up the boost and leave it like that

yeah but n/a cars that get boosted will blow more often,coz the engine is not meant to be boosted.i see it a lot in the shop.all this will only happen tho when your an idiot,maxing out all teh time.driving carefully will not cause anything. well there will be lots of oil leaks all the time

i know a guy thats running a 2jzge thats been converted to big single making 440rwhp.
been like that way for a couple years now, and its by no means treated nicely, its often says the track+drifting along with hard street driving.

as long as you do it properly, it'll last

Quote from Fuse5 :

why is it that you constantly post
yet still have nothing to say

u mad


I always thought a 3 rotor conversion for the 3 would be fun, namely a light tuned lump would give most honda's a go for their money. If he states that its in the 12k ballpark to safely turbo, wouldn't it just be best to swap in a totally new lump ?

And yes, i know the work required, Is the end result not worth it ?

Quote from Dmt :

big like

Quote from Bose321 :

Damn it looks so clean and those black rims fit it so well.

Thanks i wish i had the M-Package it would look much better with it :/

Quote from Klutch :

Black on black

best colour combo for a car. All it needs is darker tint imo

Thanks. I thought about Tint, too but in Germany your not allowed to tint the drivers and passenger window so the only one i could tint would be the one in the back and the small ones. Wouldn´t look so good imo.

Quote from Klutch :

i know a guy thats running a 2jzge thats been converted to big single making 440rwhp.
been like that way for a couple years now, and its by no means treated nicely, its often says the track+drifting along with hard street driving.

as long as you do it properly, it'll last

that

A few shots of my "fleet", as it's changed a bit since I moved to Ireland.

The daily driver. 1998 Lexus GS300 2JZ (non-turbo). Love wafting around in this. Despite it being a big comfortable cruiser, it is surprisingly capable in the corners, especially since having £400's worth of Bridgestone Potenzas' fitted. It does weigh two tonne or so though, so it's no Lotus Elise.





My baby. 2000 Honda Accord SE Sport fitted with an F20B. I love this car. I mean like REALLY love it. This is a completely different animal to drive compared to the Lexus. Where as the Lexus is an Automatic barge, the Honda is a 8650rpm, D.O.H.C VTEC screaming monster. Most people see it and think it's a typical family saloon with a lip kit. The jokes on them when I leave them eating my dust.

One place this car really shines though, is in the corners. Adaptive suspension, Limited Slip Diff and a low kerbweight all mean that it is rarely caught in the twistys. Unfortunately, I'm having some issues registering it here in Ireland which I won't go into, so it's stuck on the drive at the moment.





I love both of them dearly. They are not the best cars in the world, but they are both in great condition (Honda needs paint...) and are reliable, and also cheap to insure for a 19 year old, so I can't moan.

Hope you enjoyed my longer than expected post. Haha!

P.S that PlastiDip is amazing! Might have to try it out.

Quote from Nathan_French_14 :

P.S that PlastiDip is amazing! Might have to try it out.

Just a shame it's not that cheap... 1 can = £15 delivered

Quote from Jakg :

Just a shame it's not that cheap... 1 can = £15 delivered

Oh right. I watched a video of some American fella who done it to his Civic. He said that he used 4-5 cans at $4 a can. The Accords wheels need a refurb, so I was going to try it out for a laugh....not at £15 a can though!

Will have to have a chat with my local supplier here in Ireland and see if he can get it cheaper, but I doubt it.

$6 a can in the US - £9 a can over here + delivery + VAT

Well that's that idea out the window then! Will get them refurbed.

Thanks for the info Jack! Saved me searching for it.

Mine: