Now the road cars are realy fine… and the GTR cars are boring… I honestly think that GTR and formula cars had already fine redlines… race prepared engines supposed to rev that high and have a bit more spare room for revving 1000rpm above the peak power…

eg now the XFR with a 2lt engine race engine has a rev limiter on 7900 something rpm.
FOX tops @ 7500 !!!
There are every day driven road cars that have higher rev limiters than that

Engine sounds needed to be more exiting and now they are less
I “hate” all of you suggesting that to Scawen…


lol@ me taking advantage of that bump....

Last edited by kaynd, Wed, 12 Dec 2007 18:51.

Here is a BL setup I made.
I wanted to stay with as less DF as possible (4/5), and still keep it easy. My main focus was to maintain an easy turn in with not much steering movement (i am using 450deg for the Formula cars) and also minimize that mid corner under steer when you gently apply throttle.

I haven’t done enough laps to attach a good hotlap. I managed a poor 1.14.52 but with many mistakes caused by me as i don't really know when to brake yet

Try Bob's VHPA

I think that it is not working with the test patch X30 (upcoming patch Y) set files, but the mane difference is the filename and allso some car specs so you could find a way round if you want

Last edited by kaynd, Wed, 12 Dec 2007 06:25.

This car had a maybe badly modified engine with a clutch with unknown previews wear state…
And it still got 30 seconds to completely cook it… (00:40)
And I repeat for 4th time… now in LFS you can do that in an XFG with a brand new clutch in 3seconds …

Most of us didn’t say that we have problems in normal shifting, but that in general the clutch overheats excessively fast… and you can understand that after you repeat some slow starts with mid high revs…

Username: kaynd
Realname:
Car: FZR
Why that car: Raced it recently on WE and I liked it.
But in case the grid don’t fill with all cars, I am free to drive whatever you want to make the differences in comparison more pronounced.

Last edited by kaynd, Wed, 12 Dec 2007 22:50.

Flying after a full speed crash with a flipped ,in the middle of the track, mrt


Yeah also AI does nothing to avoid obstacles like this but this can't be easily fixed.

In some cars (eg XFG) the clutch is useless after 3 sec of sliping… it just isn’t right, even though I don’t have problems in racing…

AI doesn’t try to remove the flipped or stuck to the wall car from the track and if there is no other way (luck of reverse gear @ MRT) they will stay stuck in the middle of the track for the entire race.

They could shift+s if reset is not allowed.

Last edited by kaynd, Tue, 11 Dec 2007 17:42.

The clutch indeed stays cool in normal racing, but I still think that it gets cooked really soon.

In a test with the XFG I managed to overheat it in 3sec. when it just reaches the ¼ of the clutch temperature bar and becomes red, it slips like hell… almost unusable.

Is it normal that I feel the feedback less informative, a bit softer and lighter?
Also it is great that there are now realistic redlines to the road cars… but why it got changed also on the GTR and formyla cars?
F3000 with rev limiter @ 7500 rpm?
XF GTR @ 8000rpm??? Oh come on! There are even factory road cars that have higher rev limiters for the same engine layout.

Clutch scared me a bit after some rough gear changes but then I realized that it is not that difficult to keep it cool.
But anyway I find it a bit excessive that it can be completely destroyed in less than 5se sec of slipping.

I was joking didn't you see the emoticon?
nice to point out the difference though

Check out 2:45 and 3:10 squidhead is arabdrifting
http://ie.youtube.com/watch?v=27AAUepxMHg


Seriously now, you can have fun going sideways anyware (in a controlled environment)… it is just that absolute ignorance of corners and the obsession with the straight road with non drifting car/s pretenting the “traffic” that upsets…

Nice editing though

I found your set difficult to control at corner exits. It turns in easily using the full amount of the rear grip but when it is time to add more force by accelerating, the rear brakes easily.


As for your driving, I totally agree with Jouman even if I have 0% experience in LX6 @ BL but I have some in LX4 @BL and the lines are not much different.

Quote from Jouman :

T1 braking too late, T2(after the long straight) turning in a bit too early -> turn becomes a bit too sharp try to make it smoother and maybe T5(second to last corner, downhill braking) i think in this one too you might be turning in a bit too early. Other then these seemed fine.

Anyway, if you want a fast setup, then you need the one from inferno posted above.
Otherwise you could try the set I made with yours as baseline. I did it mainly experimenting with LX6 settings, it is not really the kind of set I would use… For my sets i usually prefer a bit more understeer at corner entry and higher locking at the power side of the diff (oversteer at corner exit but not that much loss of grip by the spinning inside tire).
As for the set I have attached here, I tried to maintain the fast turn in characteristic and also reduce the rear tire grip loss at corner exit with throttle, while maintaining the same front/rear stiffness “distribution” (overall it has a bit less roll resistance).
Not sure if I made it or just got used to my set… but anyway I still find yours more oversteery at corner exits so there must be a difference.

Last edited by kaynd, Sun, 9 Dec 2007 07:24.

If there are no other files wrote on the space where the old one appeared, Then it is easy to recover the deleted files from the HDD using a program like Get Data Back http://www.get-data-back.com/

Hell yeahhhhh

Quote from shorty943 :

If there was something wrong with my inhouse configuration, I would not be posting here. I think.

Actually when I said about ISP problems I didn’t mean no connection at all…
I have seen cases where temporary the user’s ISP for some reason wasn’t able to connect with the servers on another ISP.
But anyway I guess that lfs forum is at the same master server so that’s not the case now
Especially after you did the last check that angry said.


can you check if LFS tries to send packets o it just does nothing?
Or anyway if these packets are blocked?

They made them worst looking than ever and about 1 and a half seconds slower... great job… I actually did like the Subarus before 2004 and the all the evos but now they ruined them both

You said that you did disable the windows firewall in your first post.
Just for experimenting. Not as a solution...
You could try to disable your rooter firewall and whatever software firewall you have. And keep it in that way till you figure out what is happening.
Also try to calm down… this doesn’t help you or anyone who want to help.
You have enough theoretical knowledge and you will find the solution just stay focused that this is your operating system settings – rooter NAT – firewall – ISP problem.
There is nothing wrong with the LFS’s master server.

Thanks for clarifying it

Quote from Bob Smith :

Quote from kaynd :

But in my opinion hardening the antiroll bar in one end of the car, not only decreases traction at that end but also increases traction at the other end.

I'd agree, although the effect is identical in any case, it's just the magnitudes that differ.
Plus one minor correction - the term is roll stiffness, not rolling resistance (that's for tyres).

I am ok with that and thanks for correcting me about the rolling resistance term, this mistake has to do mainly with my bad English

Quote from Bob Smith :

Quote from kaynd :

We did replase the GSi’s antiroll with the GTi’s and the roll did decrease dramatically. Isn't that normal?

Yes, as their name implies, anti-roll bars reduce roll. Not weight transfer. It's just the force gets to the outer tyre using the anti-roll bars, rather than using the springs, hence less roll.

I already agree with that but about what I have experienced irl, yes it is normal or yes it isn’t?

Quote from Bob Smith :

Quote from kaynd :

Not using numbers, just hypotheticaly a clear example. If we put a proper rear antiroll bar so as a result we have same rolling resistance at the back as in the front.
That won’t effect the total rolling resistance?

No.

And I completely loose you here.
I can’t figure out how hardening the ARB in one end of the car, doesn’t effect total roll resistance.
Unless you got what I was saying wrong cause of my wrong usage of the term “rolling resistance” so its all my fault.

Anyway I am not asking you to explain it further because it is off the main topic and it may be better to spend your time in something more interesting.
I will figure it out myself. There is plenty of info to search.

Quote from Bob Smith :

but didn't think the total weight transfer was affected.

But doesn’t it effect the total rolling resistance? (in benefit of total camber control)
e.g we have a typical understeery setup with higher rolling resistance at the front than at the back.
Not using numbers, just hypotheticaly a clear example. If we put a proper rear antiroll bar so as a result we have same rolling resistance at the back as in the front.
That won’t effect the total rolling resistance?

I think that it would and that’s what I have seen irl… In a friend’s Rover 416GSi model 90’s it’s stock rear antiroll bar was silly soft and the car rolled quite a lot in the corners. We knew that the “better” vertion of the same car, the 416 GTi had nothing more than a harder rear antiroll bar…
We did replase the GSi’s antiroll with the GTi’s and the roll did decrease dramatically. Isn't that normal?

Quote from Bob Smith :

stiffening the rear anti-roll bar will cause more weight transfer at that end (and thus less grip and less understeer/more oversteer),

Yes a stiffer rear antiroll bar decreases the grip at the rear but it doesn’t simultaneously increases the front grip? At a turn, because of the increased total roll resistance without hardening the front ARB, the front inside suspention arm, more independently, pushes the inside tire against the road instead of transferring thru the ARB more force to the outside tire. At least that’s the way I understand it.

Anyway in an already netural setup I agree that hardening ARB in both ends gives more roll resistance - better camber control, for the less weight transfer than in any other unbalanced situation.
But in my opinion hardening the antiroll bar in one end of the car, not only decreases traction at that end but also increases traction at the other end.


At the thread's main topic now, too soft springs with too hard dampers, sound to me like a description of an overdamped suspension. I doubt that this could benefit grip in comparison with a normaly damped suspention... unless we are talking about a glass-like flat road with no bumps whatsoever.
But anyway i don't think that any selfrespected damper manufacturer will provide you a product like that.

Last edited by kaynd, Tue, 4 Dec 2007 04:53.

Try using less FOV

High FOV may look cool to you on your high ress 3d rendered image that the LFS creates on your screen but when you have to make your viewers pay attention to what you want to show them, if it is something specific and not generally a view, you have to get rid of any unnecessary scenery by narrowing the Field of view.

It could be a nice promo video.
It has some nice racing shots but also some not really interesting. e.g the hotlap shots.
Also there were some scenes with low fps, maybe these should be recorded at a lower speed?
I think you could do it a lot better if you had spent a bit more time to it.

Nice short videos.
The first makes you feel the fun out there.
I have to say that there are some inspired skins there