If the feedback you receive is not a product of your own inputs on the car’s behavior, then what you get is meaningless… Just random rumbles and jerking forces or whatever.
It won't work. you need an analog to digital controller in order to feed it with analog signals. keyboard's controller is not able to do this.
btw this test is in the BMI vol 18 Enduro challenge.
http://www.bestmotoringvideo.com/package/vol18.html
It is old enough to be really cheep at various online stores… or just not be a big sin to find it by other means (e.g borowing it
)and that if you care about seeing how the cars where driven, helping your judgment.
Congratulations for the 5 years of top notch racing to all Mercury guys. The closure of model teams like Mercury is indeed sad but it didn’t come as a surprise for me and for many others, simply because more or less anyone can feel this lack of motivation from time to time. As the time passes this happens more often till a point when it becomes terminal. Real word changing conditions and priorities is one part and the almost stationary state of LFS the past 3 years is the other part of this problem’s source.
Anyway this is normal. We shall only hope for better things to come and spend as much energy as we can in activities that are most satisfactory.
Anyway this is normal. We shall only hope for better things to come and spend as much energy as we can in activities that are most satisfactory.
If you can spend close to 300euros then I think that Dell 2209WA is a secure choice. (be careful 2209WA has a eIPS panel, 2209W has a TN panel)
Have a look at digital versus. Its a really nice site for reviews in general. Their monitor tests are short on words but produce some clear- "easy to understand and judge by your own" results.
eg http://www.digitalversus.com/article-358-4862-88.html
on the other hand I am going for the Iiyama prolite B2206WS.
http://www.digitalversus.com/article-358-5093-50.html
It is as good as a TN panel can get and close to my ~200 euros budget.
Spend some time in the "Products Face-Offs" -> screens section. You will find even more detailed info there about many tft's
And trust me... monitors have almost nothing to do with brands... any brand produces from time to time some bad and some good monitors. You have to look for specific models and types.
Have a look at digital versus. Its a really nice site for reviews in general. Their monitor tests are short on words but produce some clear- "easy to understand and judge by your own" results.
eg http://www.digitalversus.com/article-358-4862-88.html
on the other hand I am going for the Iiyama prolite B2206WS.
http://www.digitalversus.com/article-358-5093-50.html
It is as good as a TN panel can get and close to my ~200 euros budget.
Spend some time in the "Products Face-Offs" -> screens section. You will find even more detailed info there about many tft's
And trust me... monitors have almost nothing to do with brands... any brand produces from time to time some bad and some good monitors. You have to look for specific models and types.
Last edited by kaynd, .
There are not only 2 groups of people. Everyone has his own preferances.
Don’t fall in the same mistake categorizing peoples in the same way others do for drifters.
You seem to “screen” anyone who plays LFS only and just for the sake of racing as the type of person who could do anything in order to gain an unrealistic advantage.
One can be satisfied, in a way, by the current physics as far as racing is concerned, (actualy nearly all real world driving-racing-general car controll principles still apply in LFS regardless the flaws) never get bored as long as there is healthy racing competition out there, still be aware of the physics flaws and looking forward for improvements, (tyres in LFS need improovements in many other aspects than just heating) and after all respect that this is a project of 3 peoples who have chosen to work that way.
Yeah class balancing issues and the inaccurate tire load sensitivity model bothers me a lot. But that’s all. It just bothers me and puts me off. If I am tired I just go and play something else. It’s a better thing to do than just trying to categorize people and basically insult anyone who believes something different than me.
This depends on the suspension design of each car.
I used to aim for perfectly horizontal sitting cars, judging by the damping graphs but I found out this is meaningless if the suspension kinematics are not exactly the same in both front and rear axle.
Now I alter it mainly by feel or trying to approximately bring both front and rear roll centres to close levels.
I used to aim for perfectly horizontal sitting cars, judging by the damping graphs but I found out this is meaningless if the suspension kinematics are not exactly the same in both front and rear axle.
Now I alter it mainly by feel or trying to approximately bring both front and rear roll centres to close levels.
Yes this makes sense
I don't realy understand what you mean by "rake angle".
But anyway I have seen that usualy the graphs showing the remaining suspention travel, reach the bottom a bit earlyer than what happens in LFS, espesialy if we talk about the remaining travel afected by roll angles. This might have to do with some suspention kinematics that as Bob has said, he hasn't modeld yet.
I don't realy understand what you mean by "rake angle".
But anyway I have seen that usualy the graphs showing the remaining suspention travel, reach the bottom a bit earlyer than what happens in LFS, espesialy if we talk about the remaining travel afected by roll angles. This might have to do with some suspention kinematics that as Bob has said, he hasn't modeld yet.
I don’t quite get how exactly stiffen and soften buttons work ether, except from the obvious.
As for the level ride optimized frequency differences between fron and rear, usually they are far from being ideal for handling especially if they are tuned for low speeds. (Try increasing the 108km/h or 30m/s vehicle speed from the “live settings” and recalculate the level ride frequencies.) But this level ride optimization might help you if you have to tune your setup in order to be as stable as possible hitting a bump in a certain-narrow speed range. (Also damping affects spring frequencies so you have to keep this in mind while tuning)
You always have to compromise things anyway.
As for the level ride optimized frequency differences between fron and rear, usually they are far from being ideal for handling especially if they are tuned for low speeds. (Try increasing the 108km/h or 30m/s vehicle speed from the “live settings” and recalculate the level ride frequencies.) But this level ride optimization might help you if you have to tune your setup in order to be as stable as possible hitting a bump in a certain-narrow speed range. (Also damping affects spring frequencies so you have to keep this in mind while tuning)
You always have to compromise things anyway.
Have a look here.
http://www.optimumg.com/OptimumGWebSite/Others/TechTips.html
It is mentioned in Springs & Dampers I
http://www.optimumg.com/OptimumGWebSite/Others/TechTips.html
It is mentioned in Springs & Dampers I
Thanks for bringing back this feature
keep up the great work. Also optimized frequencies for level ride, depending on vehicle speed is really useful (it was for me anyway, now I deal with that mainly by damping espesialy if I don't want to alter greatly the spring frequencies). For a long time I did this calculations by hand. thank you thank you thank you . . .
(the known flash)
Last edited by kaynd, .
Actually trailing arms prevent the reward pitching so I would say that they produce mainly an anti squat effect.
But hmm
yeah guessing from the oposit effect that happens when you activate the rear brakes, it will help reduce dive while braking.
In McPherson struts, doesn't caster also produce some antidive characteristics?
But hmm
yeah guessing from the oposit effect that happens when you activate the rear brakes, it will help reduce dive while braking.In McPherson struts, doesn't caster also produce some antidive characteristics?
Check your fps. I had the same problem when fps did drop below 30.
If that’s the case, try a 16bit resolution before the dropping of any other setting.
If that’s the case, try a 16bit resolution before the dropping of any other setting.
The only insane thing I see is the car washing… Apart from that I notice only minor modifications… nothing really sophisticated apart from the esthetical part. And really when I saw the subwoofer it lost me there. The Nurburgring badges and heavy sound systems is just “no go”…
I also guess that the real car has more sophisticated kinematics on both front and rear suspension to compensate with the luck of rear ARB. Don’t forget that LFS’s wishbones are still 2D. Also the current LFS’s minor tire model inaccuracies really bring the worst results in cars like RAC where you can’t do anything else than having much grater roll resistance at the front cause of the luck of rear ARB, as many mentioned. (considering also that the rear end is much heavier)
That’s how he called early versions of VHPA
Id prefer a well payed job.With enough money you can do as many interesting things you can...
Whatever becomes a routine gets boring so there is no point looking for a job which is going to keep you always interested... this isn't going to happen.
But anyway it’s a choice that depends... it depends on how reachable are these further opportunities the more interesting job offers...
Whatever becomes a routine gets boring so there is no point looking for a job which is going to keep you always interested... this isn't going to happen.
But anyway it’s a choice that depends... it depends on how reachable are these further opportunities the more interesting job offers...
Last edited by kaynd, .
#36 Greek Virtual Racing team
GT2 FXR
Varwnos, Andy Perrs, Greece
CBR929, George Alamaras, Greece
kaynd, Kritolaos Daskalopoulos, Greece
GT2 FXR
Varwnos, Andy Perrs, Greece
CBR929, George Alamaras, Greece
kaynd, Kritolaos Daskalopoulos, Greece
#36 Greek Virtual Racing team's skin for 6h of kyoto.
Short instructions are impossible to be written about each setting.
That’s because almost no setting value has always a given affect on handling.
Even setup guides that suggest how to alter damping settings in order to affect the car’s handling at certain states (corner entry – mid corner – corner exit) x (increasing – decreasing – throttle – braking) are too simplified and inaccurate in many circumstances… and this is about multi-page setup guides… go figure. It’s impossible to give a worthy tip about any setting in a few words.
If you don’t want to spend time experimenting with these settings, then do not bother changing them.
There are plenty of good setups attached on setupgrids
http://setupfield.teaminferno.hu/
http://www.setupgrid.net/
There is also an in game feature that allows you to get a setup from anyone who is willing to give it.
And there is even a feature in www.lfsworld.net that allows you to analyze any uploaded hotlap, selecting an option that reveals all suspension settings, regardless if the driver actually wants to share that… You just have to do a bit guess work about tire pressures, camper and differential settings, probably taking some ideas about other similar setups. And voila you have almost any given worthy setup…
And don’t tell me that all given, in any way, setups are crap and doesn’t suit your driving style... this is bs.
On the other hand if you want to learn making your own setups, you have to do it the hard way… there are no easy "pills" for this procedure.
That’s because almost no setting value has always a given affect on handling.
Even setup guides that suggest how to alter damping settings in order to affect the car’s handling at certain states (corner entry – mid corner – corner exit) x (increasing – decreasing – throttle – braking) are too simplified and inaccurate in many circumstances… and this is about multi-page setup guides… go figure. It’s impossible to give a worthy tip about any setting in a few words.
If you don’t want to spend time experimenting with these settings, then do not bother changing them.
There are plenty of good setups attached on setupgrids
http://setupfield.teaminferno.hu/
http://www.setupgrid.net/
There is also an in game feature that allows you to get a setup from anyone who is willing to give it.
And there is even a feature in www.lfsworld.net that allows you to analyze any uploaded hotlap, selecting an option that reveals all suspension settings, regardless if the driver actually wants to share that… You just have to do a bit guess work about tire pressures, camper and differential settings, probably taking some ideas about other similar setups. And voila you have almost any given worthy setup…
And don’t tell me that all given, in any way, setups are crap and doesn’t suit your driving style... this is bs.
On the other hand if you want to learn making your own setups, you have to do it the hard way… there are no easy "pills" for this procedure.
Greek Virtual Racing team's (no28) 2048 new skin for 2009 with updated IGTC logo.
[edit] uploaded again with the correct IGTC number plate logo.
[edit] uploaded again with the correct IGTC number plate logo.
Last edited by kaynd, .
Indeed.
Also don’t bother going for the 1GB version… this is just a marketing trick. A card like this could never be able to render that “great amount” of graphics, to use more than 512ΜΒ of it’s onboard memory.
Go for the cheapest 9600GT 512ΜΒ… If you want to spend more money, consider buying a 9800GT or an ATI 4850. I already have a 4850 and I am really satisfied especially with its adaptive AA feature and the core’s performance capabilities.
Also don’t bother going for the 1GB version… this is just a marketing trick. A card like this could never be able to render that “great amount” of graphics, to use more than 512ΜΒ of it’s onboard memory.
Go for the cheapest 9600GT 512ΜΒ… If you want to spend more money, consider buying a 9800GT or an ATI 4850. I already have a 4850 and I am really satisfied especially with its adaptive AA feature and the core’s performance capabilities.
Well I didn’t make those changes to like them instantly, but just to demonstrate roughly how two of the exact changes I mentioned, affect the car (fixing the snap oversteer at braking). This is yours setup, not mine. 
Really disappointed regarding the driver behavior and not the league organization as it is.
I think that can be caused due to the form this league. Three really short races not giving room for patience.
I am going to stay to this.
I can’t think anything else…
I got really really disappointed about the behavior of drivers I respected.
I am not participating in this event. My teammate A.Perrs does. We just finished observing the race replays with him corner per corner… trying to figure out what he did wrong. I found some mistakes he made but nothing justifies what he faced from other drivers. Well I don’t think that protesting has any meaning in cases like this where the racetrack becomes a jungle and what prevails is the “get out of my way” attitude.
Anyway I am quite skeptical about this, as many seem to be. But after all I am not racing here so it’s not my decision if our racers will continue participating in ITCC.
I think that can be caused due to the form this league. Three really short races not giving room for patience.
I am going to stay to this.
I can’t think anything else…
I got really really disappointed about the behavior of drivers I respected.
I am not participating in this event. My teammate A.Perrs does. We just finished observing the race replays with him corner per corner… trying to figure out what he did wrong. I found some mistakes he made but nothing justifies what he faced from other drivers. Well I don’t think that protesting has any meaning in cases like this where the racetrack becomes a jungle and what prevails is the “get out of my way” attitude.
Anyway I am quite skeptical about this, as many seem to be. But after all I am not racing here so it’s not my decision if our racers will continue participating in ITCC.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG