Great editing and superb effects.
Now the only thing that you need to improve is your camerawork even if is at a really high level already.
Also you need to be less lazy because I spotted many scenes that you have already used at your previous videos



squid, check out the resolutions on both this and Lynce’s vids and you will find out that HD is not always the better looking. especially when we have 3D graphics with lots of rough edges.

Last edited by kaynd, Sat, 2 Feb 2008 13:13.

Quote from squidhead :

just look at the editing, not at the content... and you will see why I am so impressed
plus the shear effort put in it

Yeah the editing is realy impressive! thumbs up and as for the GT3 intro part, me<-console noob , Anyway great job

Impressive video.
Not the best though because it does not contain much in game directing of moving car scenes, showing e.g. racing, so I can’t really compare this video with Unocaeva’s vids or anything similar.

The engine internals rendered scenes are super uber … sexy! If it's you the one that made them, then sure you have got some talent and proper skills.

The messages especially close to end disappear way too fast and no, the solution is not a forum post because a promo video has to be easily understandable, not only by forum members.

Great work overall

Last edited by kaynd, Fri, 1 Feb 2008 16:06.

Nice nice
I Liked the cool music and the proper shots according to it

“Because skyscapers just sit there”
so they do not add any resistance to our system… hmm

“Maybe do a bit more research into solar panels”
I will sure do mainly because it is part of what I am studying…
There is nothing more I can argue about here.
I don’t know if you really know what you are talking about or you just have read some openminding articles.
You don’t know if I know what I am talking about. (and I am not willing to prove anything)

You have more posts than me -> you win

No it is not a fact and it depends on the working procedure to make a solar panel…

And as I said.. The procedure and the material usage to make a solar panel is extremely close to whatever silicon based electronic device we have around us.

tristancliffe you are exaggerateing here…

Yes Politicians mainly lie … but usually they use general truths to base their lies.
Renewable forms of energy such us solar or wind power are way less destructive than the usual burning thing we do with any other energy source. The fact that hypocrites "count" on them to pretend they care about environment doesn’t prove that these kinds of energy sources are useless and destructive…

I haven’t searched for info nor have I read in any researches that prove how the resistance caused by the wind generators can effect so badly the climet…
But if they could effect the wind so badly… so what about cities full of skyscrapers?? They don’t effect the environment resisting the winds?


Anyway I haven't any clue about that so I will just have it in mind for search...



But.

Quote from tristancliffe :

Solar - apart from the fact that the reflected light is less likely to escape (it's wavelength is altered so that, in effect, it's Greenhouse Light), solar panels have lots of nasty metals and chemicals in them, which do not degrade, and are not currently processable. In fact, I believe that 1 tonne of solar panels contains MORE nasty stuff than 1 tonne of spent nuclear rods!

You are completely wrong about that.
Solar panels are made with silicon, some plastic and some copper based metal mainly… and we already use plenty of these materials in many ways…
There is nothing nastier in solar panels than what we have in any electronic part in any device we use everyday.
As for the reflected light is way less than what we see on fashionable glass buildings.
The color and the matt glass you can see at solar panels prevent reflection for the simple reason that it reduces their effectiveness

Last edited by kaynd, Tue, 29 Jan 2008 16:24.

Quote from Bandit77 :

but as wrecking your car in LFS doesn't cost you anything but the race, it's the only way to force "cheaters" (or "exploiters") to drive in a manner close to what they would do in real life.

Thats why I said

Quote from kaynd :

with proper placed tire walls you can slow down anyone that wants to cut that much the track and still make it possible for him to retire because of the damage… but all this will happen outside the track and not in the middle.

In that way you punish the driver who doesn’t care but you don’t punish the rest of the field.

Quote from March Hare :

BTW this is a discussion about the features of the tracks not whining. So get back here!

I am always here

I just have nothing more to say about that

Well Aston doesn’t seem like a club track, nor that club tracks don’t have some basic safety rules.

And anyway with proper placed tire walls you can slow down anyone that wants to cut that much the track and still make it possible for him to retire because of the damage… but all this will happen outside the track and not in the middle.

Enough whining from me, I can live with the current track configuration. I just said my opinion

Last edited by kaynd, Tue, 29 Jan 2008 11:36.

http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=34784
In that thread you can see how you can use your old setups.

setups for road cars still work fine

Clean camerawork and great quality (i have downloaded the 130MB vertion). Nice action also.

The only problem imo is that the music is way more… nervous than the video.
I think that action in the way it’s captured, in such long scenes with these camera angles does not fit with that music and the flashes don’t help.

Anyway nice effort

Μy problem is not the corners.
They could stay as they are…

My problem is, what is near those corners… e.g. walls that are so dangerously placed near the exit of 150+km/h corners.
There could be just some properly placed sandtraps… so if someone got it wrong, is not forced to die instantly and kill some more racers that are following…

Jupiter FTW

Indeed… I was talking about specific setup changes in LFS. Not in general

Nice video (thumbs up kraniwani ) and great action!

Realy realy great action.


I hope I will find someday enaugh free time to take part in your league.:worried:

Apart from the fact that the track we barely see in that video has a green background like Fe… what other similarities can you find? It looks wider than FE, with reasonable corners and nearly no curbs…

Even though I feel the irony... because you have enough km of experience to already know them.

Just two examples.

A track you could see in real life…
Following some basic safety rules... not having concrete wall facing the exit of a chicane before which, is a straight that lets you reach 200+km/h…
Have some proper run off areas ffs.
That would help massively proper racing and one accident would not ruin the whole grid.

Quote from Motordirex :

BS! We only complain about tracks we arent fast at...I know cuz Im one of them. But Im in no position to point out faults of a track because Im not quick there - its my driving that needs to improve, not the circuit.

That maybe true for you and for many others but not for everyone...
For me my ability to go fast on an LFS track has strictly to do on how much laps I have done practising... nothing more nothing less.

I get really annoyed when races get ruined cause of some corners «traps» that are there just to bottleneck the track.

Indeed softer rear antiroll bar helps an fwd car with locked diff to turn in easier but also increasers the oversteer effect that the locked diff creates under power.
Using the locked diff, both wheels rotate at the same speed so imagine if we could keep the load equal at both wheels, the car would not turn at all… but that’s just impossible so the more weight transfer you have from the inside to the outside wheel, the more oversteer under power you have. (Taking in count LFS tires… a real tire doesn’t give you that high grip as the load increases)
Grater weight transfer, when turning, appears at the harder end of the car.

As for the antiroll bars don’t go at a lot higher stifress rate than the springs… that doesn’t help especially on bumpy surfaces and generally the weight transfer from side to side stops being linear… it moves rather suddenly.

Also don’t adjust the height only by what you see using drop in the garage… this is not the maximum force than the suspension will get while driving. Do a lap, save the replay and see where the car bottoms out using the “force” view (F)

[edit]

As for the laptime, it is your driving that you have to improve now, the setup is already nice.
I gave it a go… just to see some slow laptimes with no experience at that combo, but with some XFG experience.
In 8 laps I dropped to 1.34 flat with the setup you attached here.
You can see the beginning of my learning curve there… I dropped 3 sec in 8laps and I think I can easily drop another sec after 30 laps or so but I can’t be bothered to use my wheel now because I don’t have much time to spare for the following 3 weeks.

Last edited by kaynd, Mon, 28 Jan 2008 04:09.

Quote from Bandit77 :

I cured it by changing the track on the rear a bit. It's quite ok now.

kaynd: I don't think the answer really depends on the set.

now I am at this point again where the set feels nice, but i'm still slowish... must be the driving .

It depends on the set since thete are many ways you can eliminate the effect you described and in order to choose one of them you have to know most of the setup's values.

There is no way to change track, not even by camber changes since ufr has a trailing arm at the back so i assume you incleased the rear antiroll bar.

I think the setup is already fast... considering that you have 80hp at the baby UFR class.
If you are still slow it is just your driving.

Logitech is without a competitor for long… long time in the ff wheel market.
I don’t think that G25 was the best they could do… nor it is good in general… there is just nothing better to compare…

I know fanatek made pathetic wheels till now but it is not rocket science orsomething… if a company take it seriously, they can easily make a better product.

I am disappointed from the build quality of the internals of my G25…
After less than 6 months the cogwheels inside sound terrible especially turning to the right… and also I can see some deadzone growing up lately… (Less than 1degree but still noticeable)
Actually I feel the wear at the feedback mechanism grow faster than in my old DFP… and now there are less cogwheels and the motors get less stress cause they are not forced to spin that fast as the one motor did in the DFP.

I am not saying that fanatec’s 911 is a better wheel as I don’t have a clue really… I am saying that it could be.

Last edited by kaynd, Sun, 27 Jan 2008 14:20.

I have never watched that video so carefully to spot the fake sound… but that explains to me why the revs shown on the rev meter have nothing to do with the engine’s sound…

Quote from Stigpt :

try all of the following (1 or 2 clicks only)
Stiffer rear ARB

No reason for that in that given problem… in that way you just increase corner exit oversteer because you move weight to the back while keeping the rear roll resistance almost the same… if not increasing it because +- 1kN/m change on the antiroll bars effects way more the roll resistance than +- 1kN/m on the springs.

You want less weight transfer from the rear inside to the rear outside wheel and that means you need at least softer antiroll bar at the back or harder arb at the front.
To keep the suspension balanced you have to reduce the rear roll stiffness by both arb and springs… It has no sense to do changes when the one counteract the other as far as roll resistance is concerned… unless you need e.g. more corner exit overseer and that’s another story

As for reducing the negative camber value on the inside wheel, this is not easy on long tracks with both important left and right turns, but it will increase the inside tire traction indeed.

Quote from Vain :

That immediately leads to the fact that a high locking factor is the way to go.

It’s not about high or low. It’s about having just enough locking.
That’s why it is part of the setup… usually on a track with low speed corners (close to 90deg) you need a less locked diff to put the power down than what you need while exiting from a fast bend.
Axus set may work fine on Blackwood but not on Westhill

Also the proper diff’s locking factor is hugely affected by the roll stiffness relation of front and real suspension. With a softer rear end you could give a bit more traction to the rear inside wheel and that affects the needed locking factor.