Haha, I think I was maybe 6 - 70 km away from that. In any case, it was still bad. I just wouldn't have thought it'd be international news

First off, I want you to know that graphic dedicated memory has less of a increase in performance (w/ increase of vRam), to the performance of the GPU, namely the # of shader units, SPs, the width of the memory bus, and the speed of the ram, and ofc OTHERs Many parts of the GPU dictate its performance, like a PC. Not only does the CPU dictate its speed, but the HD, the RAM, the GPU, and the NB, SB where applicable. GDDR3 and GDDR5 make a whole big of a difference for example; and we see this in the 4850s and the 4870s. The difference is 24%, with the rest of the GPU the same.

Here is something for you to think about. Where 2 256 mb 7300GS in SLI can theoretically run 512 mb of textures, and etc, one 8800GT with 256 mb can destroy the 7300GS to the point where it doesn't know if it is a nVidia card, and ATi card, or a 3dFX card .

It is not about memory. Where a weak 256mb video card can theoretically handle 256mb of textures, if the core is too weak, it won't be able to handle the textures at the frame rate. Rather than spending more money on a crappy card, you may add maybe 10$ (maybe a card you are talking about is a low - end 6200, as such (OEM cards :shy), you may spend the same money (as finding these cards may cost you $50 anyways), you can just go and buy yourself an 8800GS, which I find rather cheap these days. They perform at a 8800GTS level, which isn't that good, but still kills current day entry - card and low - mid end card. THis is given that you are still running a PCIe card currently. Given that your PC is an HP Factory Built PC, chances are you won't have a second PCIe port, unless you bought one of the highest end ones. But if you were, you probably won't need a new GPU anyways.

If you did have 2 PCIe Ports, you'd need to check if the mobo was SLI compliant. If it is, then you'd need to check you PSU. There are loads of things to check.

Best thing to do, is to just get a single powerful GPU solution. They beat out multi - GPU solutions (in the mainstream, budget, and low enthusiast level) , and are a lot simpler to handle, usually (mostly) more power efficient, and depending on lifestyle level, more powerful too.

If you are on the AGP port, or even still on PCI, there are still many good GPUs to choose from. But at this point, if you had such, your best bet would be to simply get a new PC.

EDIT: It would be way easier if you gave us a bit more information such as a detailed spec of your current PC.

The whole story of PSUs. Again, many factors come into play. Crappy 500 Watt PSUs cannot handle much, where a quality built 350 Watt PSU can do a lot. If you are SLI'ing, then you might as well buy a new PSU, possibly a quality 500 Watt, or even 600 to be on the safe - side (depending on what GPUs you want to SLI).

Last edited by GenesisX, Sun, 23 Aug 2009 16:24.

I don't know if bumping is allowed here. If it is not, I will edit my previous post... but mainly, I just want to post my changes that I have done so far. The setup that I posted, had changes made to the suspension, namely the stiffness, without real testing. The method that I used, I had just thought of, and the F/R Stiffness ratio was based off Keiichi's 86 which was 8 - 6.5 kg (1.23 : 1), thus 90 : 111.5 or w/e. I've done not much real - world testing, mostly theoretical.

However, because not everything is the same between or cars I had to make minor changes. I am planning to increase front anti - roll bar, and raise rear damping (I think my suspension is bottoming out, (orange in rear - right [f12]).

Also, I am thinking of increasing the preload setting or locking setting for the clutch based LSD. I am noticing that the engine would rev up dominantly when I drive over a bump. Signification of such a problem, feels rather close to the open - diff.

- LSD settings currently are: 30% locking - 70 NM preload.
- Change to : 50% locking - 70 NM preload [remain the same as I do not know the differences)

-Suspension: (f/r) -Damping: 9 / 10.5
- Anti - Roll: 18 / 22

-Drivetrain - either decrease gear 2 ratio, or decrease final drive ratio; I am at redline when I prepare to brake after straight - away (~200 km/h).

EDIT: I found a dyno chart for the XRG. Apparently, I get a bit more power @ 7000 revs than at 4500 revs. Thus I will put my rev down points (ex. from 1st gear 7000 to 2nd gear) @ 5000 rpm, to maximize the power, unless torque is what is valued. \\

What anti - roll and damping settings do you normally use? Since my springs are rather stiff, compared to, let's say Hard Track, do you think the Anti - Roll Bars are stiff enough?

One question to add... I've noticed that my rear tyres are heating up to the point where my tread temps are ~ 70 - 80 degrees where my front tyres are just near 40 degrees (left one - dominant one ~ 45 - 49 degrees or so). Well, actually this is not a new problem. I've noticed this since I began here, which was with a joystick.

However, I noticed a few months ago, that if I installed Knobs in the front, that the problem would go away, or the temps would be more even through the 4 tyres. Is there a method of doing something similar, (the temps don't need to be perfectly distributed, but something close would be great)?

Would giving the front tyres less grip ease the problem. I noticed if I gave the rear springs some more 'NM', hence introducing understeer (front tyres less? grip) my front tyres would heat up a bit more.

EDIT: What does Ns stand for? Newton per sec? Really haven't learned such a unit before =D.

Thanks... - Can we double post, in my situation?

Last edited by GenesisX, Sun, 23 Aug 2009 05:37. Reason : New Info...

Are you getting this information from the 'Control' tabs or from the in - game steering wheel?

Could it be that you set the wrong settings from the car that you are using? Is there a 30 degree setting for LFS cars? Have you checked steer - compensation?

Check everything... Driver settings, Control Settings, Car Settings, Driver (Profiler) Settings and etc. Basically all I can say, with the given information right now.

I wish you good luck!

I think this is a wonderful idea. But this may change the views of many hardcore racing sim enthusiasts who might think LFS has become some sort of drifting touge thing.

However, I'd like something like this. Sounds wonderful. This with the addition of some best in class physics - engine, would make my day, and ofc keep me from going to school. I'd stick with my PC 24/7.

@brandons48: Thanks. I totally forgot =D

@mike864: May I plz modify your skin to create what I think I would want my XFG to look like? It'd be a hell lot easier for me not to go through adding a black bonnet, etc.

Thanks, GenesisX

Ok. Rather new to this anyways. I'll stick with SoftTH then. =D Thanks for the reply though!

Well, before I start, I want to thank the developers for creating such a wonderful game. It is not that I haven't known that for the last year or so, but it's good to know that the development of such a potential - full game is still on.

Anyways, recently, I am reading the Advanced Setup Guide by Bob Smith. I am to re- read it until I am sure I know each point for sure. So this is the question (edit: QuestionS).

I'm trying to tune the XRG for drifting BL1, and later when I get S2, the other maps (yes, with the XRG). Before I continue, I want to get the laughs out of your system...
>
>
There we go. Ok. I am trying to tune the XRG to Keiichi's TRD AE86 specs, as drifting is what I am trying to achieve here, and the specs are similar, or so we speak. Anyways, I've gotten mostly what I wanted. I have fitted Normals on the front and back, as opposed to Knobs on the front, which I've done before I lost my previous setups.

I like a slippier drifty feel, rather than an understeery setup which I liked before, where I could accomplish higher speed drifts.

I've got -.9 and -1.2 camber (live) front and rear respectively, with pressure at stock in the front, and raised at the tad, maybe 10 PSI in the back. I am going to fine tune the camber figures.

* I am currently using a Clutch - Based LSD. Here is a problem. I'm using the hard track's LSD setting. There is a locking setting, and a preload setting. I'm presuming the preload is the amount of force that pushes the clutch plates together, but I can't exactly make out the locking setting; the percentage of lock? It seems like I am working with two variables here; rather hard.

Suspension. Here, I chose to utilize the suspension stiffness to tune my handling, and rather use the others to achieve neutral handing.

I have thought of a formula; rather a method that should help me here. I use information from the f-r weight distribution, and see how much weight is applied respectively to the front and rear tyres.
Thus, with my settings, I have 629.65 Kg F, and 595.35 Kg R (with driver, and ~10% fuel), thus I have 90N (72mm)R 111.5N (55mm) F.

The others settings are set stock for the hard track settings. I played around with my damper settings a bit. But, here I hope to achieve neutral handing, as stated before.

* Dampers vs. Stiffness. I know that dampers provide "resistance", but in the same sense, stiffness provides stiffness. What is the difference, or are they applied to a different part of the 'strut'? How am I supposed to tune them. Again, I feel like I am working with two very close variables. Without a thing I can rely on, I don't know which one, or how to tune them correctly.

I have not installed VHPA yet; well rather I have, but it is currently running horribly with my computer. There must be certain components with my OS missing. I am planning to install a fixed version of it tonight, and install VHPA tmr. I know it provides a lot of useful information.

Another question:
* Drivetrain - I am again, using stock Hard Track Gear Ratios with the exception of final and fifth gear. This is a bit less technical, but rather, I am trying to get maximum performance out of my engine in a drift, and maximum acceleration. (BL1)

I have read that torque is used in the midst of a drift which is makes sense, because there is that 'momentum' as I'd like to call it, for the wheels to continue spinning. However, I have noticed that if I drift at ~ 5000 RPM, I lost the 'power' which is essential to drifting. I can however feel the power for which I can drift, and I like to drift for @ 6000RPM which is rated the HP Peak point where I receive all the 140 Horses. Is it just me or should I tune my drivetrain such that I am @ ~6000 RPM @ ~90-km/h (speed at which I normally drift at for BL1).

Acceleration. I accelerate the fastest with more horsepower right? So is it logical to bring my RPMs down (such that I shift up and end up @ ~ 5000 RPM to better use my horses in 2nd gear, 4th gear, and 5th gear). I've read that these figures drop a lot faster after the peak, where as there is a steady increase before the peak, such I get 120 HP @ 4500, 130 HP @ 5500, 140 @ 6000, and maybe 125 @ 6500). Is it possible for someone to provide me with a chart with such figures?

Brakes. 1000NM with 65 % Front brake dist. I still need to work on this. Further tuning when I get the respective programs. What do you guys use *for your respective drift machines*.

Toe - in and out figures, I will fine tune after all this is sorted out. I will also deal with maximum lock and parallel steering.

EDIT: Last question - what is this maximum lock degree figure anyways? I am rather confused by this. Can someone enlighten me with this?

Any suggestions, or articles that can help me, explanations, ideas, exact procedures that I can apply by myself to help myself (such as using VHPA), or do you guys just want to laugh and flame me for using a boring car for drifting.

Last thoughts; I don't think an XRG lacks power to drift. It is rather fun, and in my thought easier to drift with an XRG than XRT etc, at my level (Stop, I went to my friends house and did that). I guess its a personal thought. Such an S2 member once stated that he used a BMW E?? w/ 75HP to drift. People also drift with AE86, and low powered Silvias, old ones ofc. I think there is also a RX-7 with such specs also!

To Be S2 Driver - GenesisX - Hope this isn't too much to read; who am I kidding?

Last edited by GenesisX, Sun, 23 Aug 2009 03:20.

You know what; I might actually use it. I need a black bonnet for my XFG. I'll then use the color red for the rest of it. While I am at it, I might also put a Honda logo in the front.

Thanks, I was about to do something like this.

@Watson02, cmon man. If you don't like it, at least tell him what he can add and stuff. If you don't have something that can help him improve his skin, plz don't give him shit. ****, ppl like you are starting to piss me off.

Why do you need XRT Skins anyways? XRG owns, and every DEMO knows that, right guys?

BTW, this thread is like a year old

Welcome to LFS!! I hope you enjoy your stay here, as everyone here has! S2, here I come! Anyone got any news on Scirocco, or is that dead?

Generally, it should never be a problem. But if you are actually running high resolutions, basically anything as high as 1920 * 1080 , or multi- monitors, having a stronger card with sufficient dedic. ram, and SPs, pipelines, etc, would be good. This comes in handy especially when running in high player servers. Could be a CPU thing, but when it comes to something like 12 - 13 players, I drop to maybe a 20 - 30 frames. If you plan to run stuff like, F@H, or torrenting, or playing music, you'd better have a bit more than posted.

Other thing, if you are running Vista, don't expect to pull it off with something like a 4200Ti, or what not. I doubt it really. Current IGP or low - end GPUs should always be able to pull it off. Even an EEE PC should do the trick; but then agian, you are running at like 800 x 480 or 1024 x 600.

Never a problem with current computers though, and if anything, you can lower detail, or resolution. It becomes a problem with games using current - day shaders, such as FSX, if you are into flight sims. In such, you may need something like a current or last gen king to do the job.

Graphic cards come in cheap nowadays anyways. I remember when I first built my PC which was only 3 - 4 years ago, where a mid - end GPU like a 6600GT would cost like $200 where, nowadays, an mid - high to even the near top models cost that much. I can buy myself a 4850 for merely $100!

Good Idea. I should do that =D

I feel just in place when I looked at this thread! I've been always jummping from setup to setup usiing the XRG for drifting, and I would always get the wrong line.

Consistency. I guess it would help you (me myself too =D), if you stayed with one setup, and hold the urge of trying to improve it. I don't know about you, but me, I can't improve setups, cause my driving just isn't consistent enough. I don't know if the car is understeering because I was pushing the car too much at T- blah blah blah, or if it was because I stiffened the rear spring.

I am in the same league as you. I've been drifting since last year with my joystick and currently a wheel just 4 -5 months ago. I've been taking this seriously just when I got back from camp, which was 4 days ago. When I get my S2s in a matter of days, (plus a week of processing), lets race together =D.

My BL1 times with the XFG is ~1:35+ 1:36- with the nominal setup I get online (sites, and fellow drivers). Remember, I am using a wheel. I am 100% sure you will beat my time, which sucks donkey balls, with like 30 minutes of practise.

BTW, get a Fanatec wheel. For the same price of a DFGT, you get something near the G25 level. (right?)

One tip, I'm sorry if I am repeating someone; I'm not read the previous posts, but try driving with the driving line ON -. Some people may think that is noob-ish, but I am doing that, where I can learn the lines a bit better. After a while of getting that second, I am going to turn it OFF. Try it. For the understeer, are you braking and steering at the same time. I could turn at ~80km/h in T1 for BL1, but I can't with brakes @ ~50-60km/h.

I am running:

2 1024 x 768 Monitors with left one set as primary, and right set as the secondary right monitor using SoftTH.

In order for SoftTH to work, I need its own D3D8.dll file in the root folder of LFS. However, I also want the drift gauge to work, which requires its own dll file. I've tried using either, but SoftTH won't work if I use the DG's DLL, and vice-versa.

Thus, is there a way where I can compile both the dll files onto one, thus allowing me to use both at the same time?

GenesisX

That isn't 100% true. You could generally do fine with something better than a 7900GT which is around the 8600GTS region (ATi HD2600, X1900) with high resolutions. Generally, anything with 8800 in front of it will work, given you are at high resolution. I for one, am pulling of 3072 x 768 (I am rendering 3 1024 x 768 monitors, but running on two) where I pull off 40 -50 FPS at highest detail (stock LFS, no add-ons) with a 7600GT (stock) and a E2180 @ 3 ghz.

So as long as your CPU isn't crap, anything like (in respective series)

- 8600GT +
- 2600xxxx +
- 9500GT +
- 3650 +
- 4550+

should do fine. If I am correct, LFS is still using DX8 shaders. Thus a 4870 is just overkill. A 7600GT is around the power of a 8600GT / 9500GT with nominal shaders, which is 1/4 the power of a full fledge 8800GTX, which is 20% less powerful than a 4870 (I Think). Thus, even if you are doing, lets say 5040 * 1050 or whatever, you should be fine with a semi - last or last generation graphic card king, or a current day mid - high - end card.

All in all, you don't need like 2 4870s in cFx, or 3 GTX285s in SLI.

- Depends on your settings...

EDIT: Yes, a card in the 6 Series should do fine too. 6600GT, 6800 xxx for single monitors or old multiple monitors.

This actually amazes me. Engine tweaking and Damage is fine. But everyone should be able to start on the same level. Things that increase performance directly should not be implemented, but things that help suit you style may be.

What I am thinking is like increasing the redline to better use the power curves, etc. In actuality, you can already lower the power of your engine, (car in general) in current versions of LFS by cutting down on the air intake (in %) in the 'general' section of the car after the car selection menu.

Engine damage, and stuff like that actually interest me. It sounds like a wonderful idea. It makes us better drivers in general. I remember how I over revved my XRG in I think T1, is it called, to second gear like 40 km/h over the 7k rev limit, where there after, I had no power at all. - Shut Up - It has lots of power, right =D.

In fact, what I've been thinking of (which maybe a good idea, I know some S2erz may think it is a dumbass idea, cause they have S2 already) , is to set up a program in a variety of servers for demo-ers, where everytime you pit and get new tyres, refuel, you pay maybe 5 cents, which goes towards an S2 license, for demo people of course. This may help many of us towards and S2 License slowly, and it will help us learn better driving styles, to preserve tyres, not to be too agressive on our turns thus not crashing, not to over rev our engines all in all, driving our cars like how we would in real life. And what would be good, as many people have said, is where we would need to keep our cars in their current shape and damage. Again, this would serve difficult as the games are run on independent servers.

Yes actually, if you make your own DIY Shifter, buy an aftermarket, or try rewiring the whole thing, placing the shifter on the left. Try at own discretion.

Or, I know, buy a G25, or the Fanatec Wheels. - There you go, the shifter is on the left!

There are many wheels that you can use for the 360. In some, the intended MS wheels will definitely work. Others include the Fanatec mid - high end wheels like the Turbo S for example, work with the 360 and PS3, and PC. You can check the comparison list for the 5 Fanatec Wheels. I'm quite sure they tell compatiability between consoles, and what not.

EDIT: I knew I read it here somewhere. In the 'Is it worth buying the [blah blah blah] wheel?

In the third post or something, someone posted this http://www.fanatec.de/html/pw_overview.htm

Check it out. I states it there.

Ok. Ummm, can you recommend something that I can use that is magnetic? I've got like stupid summatives to do. I'll upload designs hopefully by Thursday/Friday!

GenesisX

There aren't much better cards there right now on the AGP port (if that is what you have). Ultimately, any true card would be bottlenecked by such P4 like CPU - that you have. Prescott?

If you are keen on getting a new card without upgrades, i believe the best that you can do is 3850. Besides that, nothing else. At that price, you can get a 4870/90 at the range in a regular 16x / 2.0 flavour. I doubt that you need a new card though. Personally I'm still running on a 7600GT, playing LFS, CS:S. Again, the games I play aren't demanding, and quite old in specs. You might have a different case.

A new computer should be thought of. A decent quad core intel with a decent dedic. GPU costs merely $4-5-600 prebuilt. (L775). I believe it was a 9600GSO (not sure if the 768 / 384 or 512 variant). Any case, the card will destroy the 7800GTX anywhere, with old 8800GTS performance, or sub - par 8800GT performance.

Any how, most of us recommend you to get a new PC. Or at least wait until newer 40 / 32nm come out (have they yet) such as the new (not really anticipated) Core i5s, the newer AMD Fusion and whatever whatever.

Good Luck. I'd think that the good old 7800GTX would still have some good gas in it. Maybe you are running on a 150hp engine, but you know what, you know how to race.

GenesisX, Good Luck to you~ it's up to you to decide

EDIT: Just read your last post - ahaha - anyways, anything between the 47-- - 48 -- series, or any GTX 27- 28-m variant will do just fine. You will be better off with a decent 775 CPU as the newer 1366 suck at gaming - no really.

mobo - P35/45 or some older 680i etc. - will do you $100
CPU - e7400 - ~$120 - ish or so
RAM - 4GB - can probably get for ~$30
PSU / Case - may choose to use old one or buy a new one ~ lets say $100 for both =D
HD - $50
Others $50
GPU - 4770 - I've seen for around $120, 4850 - $150 4870 - $180 or so. They are your best bet for now =D

Last edited by GenesisX, Tue, 2 Jun 2009 15:47.

I made a similar topic back in January or so about making a clutch pedal using the material I had. I thought it would be easier to just start a new thread to start up new again.

So what I have is:

1x Attack 3 Joystick (Dismantled)
1x Generic Joystick (joypad)
1x Generic Gamepad (no analog, just plain buttons - joypad)
1x V3 Interact wheel (on joypad port)
1x Driving Force GT

Limited building material (machines), limited experience (first time basically), no electronic knowledge, and limited computer knowledge (-built one pc 1 half years ago).

I've been constantly thinking about building a handbrake; I used my current joystick (with half travel) as my joystick (ie. from centre to all the way up). But I wasn't able to re - make the enable calibrated axis on the joystick.

Yesterday, I removed the casing of my Attack 3 joystick, and studied it (where each 'potentio-meter?' (what are they callled) is connected to a central PCB which mantles the connection to USB, which therefore goes to the computer). There are 2 designs I have thought of for my handbrake.

I'll give pictures of my designs (sucky, but ought to do).
i. Using the original joystick internals. I'm thinking of keeping the buttons so that I don't need to use my wheel buttons when it'd be more convenient to push certain buttons on the handbrake.

I'm going to put everything on a new casing, remove the central spring, and use a rubber band to give it resistance. In such a case, the everything would be put on a 45 degree angle to give it the normal handbrake slant (10-20 deg). I'm also thinking of using 2 sticks on the 'joystick holder' to restrict the joystick to only y- axis movements.

- Here I'm thinking of using a broom or an actual metal rod, or even a real handbrake lever as my ebrake handle.

ii. Here, I'm going to use the 'potentiometer' (the things that measure x- y- z- axis on the joystick (x is throt.). I'm going to use one of those measuring instruments, stick it on a vertical rod. From there, I might get a spring (maybe I might use one from a mousetrap that I have remaining from my mousetrap car project at school), and connect that end to my handbrake handle (lever, rod, whatever). The measuring instrument will be connected to the central PCB which in turn will have connections to the button PCBs (6 buttons in total).

Casing, I don't know what to use. All I have is wood right now. I don't know I can get. I might get my father to help me out here. I'm wanting to use some type of metal, and a shitload of spray paint *.*!!!!

H- Shifter (x1 design)
i. Use ff-shifter (ffjoy.). Remove external casing, remove original joystick handle, install on new improved casing.

ii. Joystick (Attack 3) Make a 6 gear metal plate. (Someone gimme some tips on how to make it?) . Make a cube casing. Use the joystick holder w/ joystick. (Attack 3). Remove central spring. At each corner of the shifter (top left -r, mid top/bot, bot lef. right) put magnets. Cover the contact points of the handle (which touches these corners) which shitload of aluminum foil. Redesign the button connections. BUttons may be found here instead if necessary. Buy a metal rod, or buy a gear shift knob. Might buy a gear shift boot also!

Pedals:

i. I might find a way to convert my V3 to USB. The pedal connections look like an s- video plug. SOme advice here? (seems like everything that involves axis need 3 so -called wires) (6 prongs?, and one central slit prong - and 2 pedals)
I'll take pictures of this.

ii. Use the axis measuring instrument thingies, and connect it to the pedals base (where the pedal is connected to the bottom casing). I saw something like this somewhere which inspired me. I'll show where I got them here.

Sorry, this is a lot to read. Hopefully someone can help me out. Simple though =D. I haven't any knowledge in a lot of it.!!!

GenesisX

Sorry!!! Ummm, sure...

In fact, it doesn't really matter. I just want some of those skins!

Sorry for slow reply, I'm having my first few exams in a few days =D.

Oh sry! :ashamed:

Totally forgot...

Those skins for XR GT would be fantastic!!!

Okay, I'll post one up. BTW, whats the best LSD to use for drifting?

I'm looking for a RX-7 (FC/FD3S), and Silvia (S13/14/15) Skins.

Thank you!!!!

Looking for some time =D