Quote from TheAdmiester :

As a reply to this conversation, I've noticed that the first screen of my BIOS mentions 447MHz, so I suppose that'll be the RAM. It's certainly not the CPU

Lol... nvm... 447 running DDR would be 894 mhz effective... I think that is what it means...

Last edited by GenesisX, Wed, 3 Feb 2010 22:50.

Mhmm... I'd say that the processor is now the crappiest component (an E84 would do me good..) along with the HD (meh... i'll get some money and do some RAID0 =D) and the optical drive (I barely touch that thing now with LFS and CS all I play =D), and the case =P. Meh, it looks like crap, that it is giving me -25% driving performance HAHAH) I want a CM690 or a HAF 922 or something. My RAM is also a bit of a let down. Next upgrade?

TOTAL RIG OVERHAUL. ---> SSD RAID0 , and some 1366 system... and ofc, a sexy case with neon lights taking 25 amps on the 5V rail =DDDDDD

Oooh... Okay, that is good to know that that will be taken into account.

Thanks =D

=D. I think this will be a bit more beneficial now that you started a new thread and people can read right off the bat from the title what your question is. Please don't take my previous post personally. I don't really know what I am doing =P

Is there a 'digital/analog' button on the wheel? If so, try toggling with it. What exactly is the model of the wheel? Also, are you using the latest version of LFS (Z28?)? How about the adapter?

GenesisX

Welcome to LFS =D

People usually exagerate the effects of bottlenecking. In fact, it isn't that 'devastating'. I'm not particularly sure of the performance of the FX5200, but the X800 can be as fast and even faster than a 7600GT. I for one, was able to get LFS running @ 1080p maxed out with filters all on running ~90 FPS. X800 - Flash to a X850 XT =D. The FX5200 on the other hand is probably way inferior. My guestimate is around 2x. You will get more performance (maybe even 100% more) out of the FX5200. Couple that with a CPU that isn't like pre - millenium era, and you should be running LFS or any games in the last few years (DX9 era) at nominal resolutions (~1440 x 900) basically all on max.

It's a good card, but at what cost. Can you get something better for that price? A newer card for a newer technology, quiet, cool? Ofc, if you alrdy own the X800, then that isn't the problem. In such a case, kick that case open, remove the FX5200, and replace it with the X800. Damn! Those cards cost like a 5970 right now, when it was released!!!!

Jakg is right.

You can't upgrade the 8200 in the sense that you are removing the GPU and replacing a new one into the PCIe slot. You can, however, insert a dedicated GPU into the PCIe 16 / 8x slot. If you look http://www.nvidia.co.uk/object/geforce_8200mgpu_uk.html, there are indeed PCIe slots. Anything that has dedicated ram to the processor will probably be better than that in your board. $50 can get you a 9600GSO which is probably 10x better than that. (not sure about in UK, etc).

Turbocharge the performance of your GeForce GPU. Plug it into a GeForce 8200 motherboard to enjoy GeForce Boost and enhanced graphics performance.

I believe that is talking about another card in works of Hybrid SLI. In advertising the 8200 motherboard of its graphic capabilities, it is selling the fact that a dedicated card is not needed, and really just a marketing plot. These IGPs can't run Crysis without looking like Doom 1, or Virtual Tennis without looking like Pong, or Virtua Fighter 5 without looking like VF1 running on the Saturn =D. It is anyhow better than a P35 without a graphics processor embedded in the motherboard (especially if you can't soup up one to start doing some homework) or Intel GMAs.

What I've noticed people destroying their tyres are by using excessive camber. I'm not sure. If you observe closely, sets for burn outs that need excessive grip loss and the get -go use this trick. Excessive negative? camber on the back to induce oversteer. What happens as I observe in other people's driving (when I go spectate) is in the first lap, they have the outer spectrum red, inner blue, and outer green for example. If the whole tyre was used it'd be green - green - green, (etc). Tune the camber, and compensate with tyre compounds on the front and back respectively and again with anti roll bar tweaking for detail.

That's is what I do. Example: people put extreme camber on an XRG to drift. Me? Knobs on the back, Norms on the front, pump up rear anti - roll bar, and off I go. Ofc, this is in reference to my normal drift set. It may be different for others. It is mostly relative to the specific setup.

FXO... I'm not sure about that though. If you're racing that is as different story. However, drifting happily in FE Gold Rev for 15 laps without a blown tyre is better than some which blow in lap 3 =P. or even KV GP Long Rev for 4, 5 laps (haven't blown a tyre there yet.)

GenesisX

My suggestion: Retractable Headlights (for XR cars etc)

It really is just eyecandy, but it again, adds to the feeling of having my lights go on. It feels really betrayed to have 'foglights?' replace the real lights to flash when I press 3.

Note: I've read the suggestion page. It states 3D headlights. Does that mean this, or something else?

Regards,
GenesisX

Quote from bbman :

I'm puzzled by your suggestion... You want one pretty pointless feature that really adds no value, two that are already in the game, and one good - the engine overheating in point 4 brought forward with a really bad example... Please tell me how it would enrich your experience if you could wipe your always dry, always clean and completely transparent windscreen? Do you feel that it needs to be prioritized over better physics, better damage, better aerodynamics, weather (which is the only thing that would validate your first suggestion) and/or many other smaller shortcomings LfS is plagued by for quite some time? Lastly, how would LfS be perfect without aforementioned improvements?

I disagree. Sometimes small eye candy makes a hell lot of difference. Why? It gives more control to the driver and thus a higher degree of presence in the simulation. That's what I think. I may get flamed for saying this; (rethink :shrug I WILL get flamed for saying this, but hey... how long have we been waiting for Scirocco, and new physics? A long long time. If it is going to take that long, then we might as well get some newer small improvements; the multi monitor stuff was good; update update update... here you go! That will at least give some of us (me) the feeling that LFS is moving forward, and not at a stand still. To tell you the truth, I truly doubt that the newer updates will come in the coming year... And no, don't tell me to play rFactor or iRacing if I don't appreciate the game or the developers because I spent money on S2, and can't afford to buy those other games. I love LFS... it is just that S2 has been out for a few years now, and not much has been moving on, like the first few years it came out or what I observed when I first noticed LFS (Y, and Z).

I believe this is a good idea. However, I think that there should be a filter. Mandatory. There are too many 12 year old noobs whining about how they get hs, I mean not hitting the apex =D

You know what. This is a great idea. I believe that if that comes with the new physic updates (with upgraded setups), that'd feel like a new model. Small suspension tweaks, and a facelift. We're talking about a 1989 RX7 here =DDDDD...

Haha... Upgraded my video card, and PSU around boxing day

CPU remains same: E2180 @ 3.2 ghz
P5K - SE (P35)
2 GBs of Ram
160GB Generic (WD)
DVD Drive Generic (Samsung)
HD5770 @ Stock (Crap cooler)*
TX750 (Overkill =D)*
ASUS 244 (24" @ 1080p)
X540 Speakers (SUCK AS$!)

Logitech DFGT
Crappy FFB Joystick @ FFShifter
Modded non cased Logitech Atk 3 as hdbrake

It doesn't matter if it is DVI - I or A or whatever. Analog or Digital?

There is a thing on the video card called a RAMDAC which converts it for you. The adapter is just there to send the signal; this is called passive. If the cables fit, I doubt it is the cables fault. The conventional DVI cables that came with your video card, and the adapter that also comes with the card onto your TV and video card should pump it up no problem. The cables that come with your card (like my 7600GT) were DVI-Is I believe.

Please don't take this personally but please post properly in English. god setup? hmm? you mean bots =P. Take this a tip. I don't think that there are sets that are made specifically for dfgt drifting. In terms of simulation, you should be able to drift a well fitted car. Just what I think.

In most terms, the DFGT reacts similarly to a G25 (source: myself and reality =D) which is rather like a G27. A big bulk of the wheel drifters drift with these few wheels, a DFP, Fanatec, and the odd $20 one here and there. You can probably find any of them working. I think it is more the originator of the skin which is most important. If he drifts like you even with KB or mouse, that may be your setup =D.

I stand mistaken... Oooh, yeah... Sorry. But actually, I just checked Intel's website. It's not 2 threads (2 cores) vs 8 threads (4cores) as in the i5 vs i7, but in fact it is 4 threads (2 cores) vs 8 threads (4 cores). Yes; the cache is split in half. The difference isn't small, but isn't detrimental.

Regardless, the impact of a GPU in gaming is usually higher (depends on game) than a CPU. At this level though, it is usually GPU. All the games that can't be played right now are all because GPUs don't have the firepower to pump out the picture on your monitor. Hey, you can FOLD better on a nVidia card anyways =P

You may get 2x at most performance gain in getting a 5750. You might as well get a 4870. It will probably cost less, and you get easily 30% more. A 4890 will do you even more good! In your scenario, it isn't your GPU that can't render the picture; it is the crappy CPU that can't calculate everything. If I were you, I would get a better CPU, and keep that GPU for now. the 4670 is a good card, IMO. Getting the 5750, meh. Get a better card for the money. A 4850 may be good; they give a higher bang for the buck!

EDIT: You may not get as much performance out of an i3 as you think. Depends on price, but those things may even perform worse than an E72. W/e, you should check some benchies.

Last edited by GenesisX, Mon, 25 Jan 2010 01:18.

We want to look primarily at GPU. The 360M will prevail over the 5730. By how much? Well, you get probably double the memory bandwidth (both on 128 bits, the former on GDDR5 and the latter on GDD3 - clocks are probably similar), and you get around 17% more theoretical SPs on the 360M. You'd therefore get a similar increase in processing output. In addition, the 360M with nVidia has better drivers, and you have CUDA, PhysX, and all that sweet candy.

To be honest, I doubt the CPUs will affect you that much in terms of gaming. I run a E2180 @ 3GHz with a 5770. This setup will kill a E8400 @ 4 GHz or even a Ci7 with a 8600GT. You can play games with a subpar CPU but you will be more limited with a subpar GPU. Anyways, the Ci7 and i5s don't have that much difference. The lack of cache here or there, but you can easily make that up with overclocking. That is harder to be said with a GPU. If you want high resolution, the GPU is a definite advantage. That extra bandwidth will be the world. You may be in the 768, 1050, 1080 area... should be fine... =)

GenesisX

EDIT: You can compare it to a GTX360M being a 8800GT and a 5730 being a 4670. I believe its a difference of about 10 - 20ish% with a similar setup. You however will have a crappier CPU on the 360... so... you can look at other stuff. Monitor size/res, keyboard size, HD size, HD speed, aesthetics, external connections (HDMI, VGA? #USB?), prepacked OS, RAM, ventilation, warranties, brand names, are all good things to look at.

Last edited by GenesisX, Tue, 19 Jan 2010 22:56.

Hmmm... A GTX260. Go online and check the dimensions for it. I'd think that unless you were in a miniATX form case that you might run into problems. Regardless, it should be remeddied in the case of removing a HD cage, etc. I have a generic "ULTRA" case, and I was able to fit my 5770 into it.

As they say, you should use the amperage on the 12V rail as a good indication for PSUs. Brand dominance helps too. For instance, Corsair is known for their PSUs. 5 Year warranties! A 550W Corsair should have > ~ 40 Amps on the 12V, which is more than sufficient for the mobo and the 260. Buy 3 120mm fans! You want ventilation, even though you aren't running 3 8800Ultras in Tri SLI

GenesisX

Looks sexy... Keep up the good work. I am looking into building a small table, not necessarily a cockpit too. This is surely good inspiration. Sadly, I won't be able to afford any type of Sparco Seat, or get a set alone shifter or clutch... All I settle for is a cheap FFB joystick that is the size of a CRT monitor, and a set of black DFGT pedals =S...

50 Euro to buy an HX450? I spent 70 dollars (35 Euro?) to buy a TX750! LOL... but it was on sale =). Regardless, Corsair makes quality PSUs, and you can trust them to get the job done. As long as you are not running 3 8800 Ultras in Tri SLI on that PSU, you should be fine

No... I don't think that is possible. If it is, it is not worth the time, and workings. I saw a BFG 550 Watt for $22 Canadian. That should have more than enough amps on the 12V to run any single card GPU... These 350W that you are looking at may not have the amperage to outrun good modular 500 watts like an HX500... These things are rather efficient. No names just don't get the job done; if they do, they are a hazard for hundred dollar cards, motherboards, CPUs etc...

Hey Logitek!
Please do not take this personally...

As a mild drifter myself; not particularly good but I know how to spell SIDEWAYS. As a personal note, I do actually notice that sets cannot be made out of thin air. Generally there is a universal set; a setup that is not extreme in anycase. As a noob, I used to think that the style - jibberish was just bs. No. Style especially for drifting is crucial, and the setup has to be built accordingly. Yes, grip setups are good for drifting a single corner and getting back on the throttle (I loved doing this when I was on DEMO on XRG! GOOD TIMES) , but slippery setups or near neutrals should be used for drifting corner TO corner. How delicate you are on your throttle may dictate how much rear antiroll you need, front antiroll. What you use to initiate the drift may dictate how you set up your dampers. In addition, what car you like to use may also tell you what camber you may use too; mainly to get the tyres to that temperature. Said as a guideline; how you are a drifter as an entity will tell you what everything should be like. Unless you are actually working with drivers who are aware of their driving/drifting problems, and merits, it is hard to develop a setup. On a sidenote, possibly you should make a VERY GOOD universal setup that every amateur can start up with and tweak at own initiative. I was able to get into this scene because people put neutral drift sets that I was able to "tweak" my driving style to; actually no, I crashed a few dozen of times =)

Style is important. Possibly you can ask the people to send in a short replay of their drifting, and you can analyze it, and think how you can resolve it on your part with the setup. Meh... I suck at making sets... I shouldn't be giving so much input when I suck myself =S...

Good luck,

GenesisX

EDIT: Sorry, I had the impression that you were doing this on solely drifting. However, it still applies. WR BL1 XFGs making low 1:33, I can't drive. They 'drift' or oversteer at corner entry, understeer at exit. I leave the corner and start to accelerate from 100 km/h when I am supposed to brake for the next apex... They may be able to use it if they are good on the brakes; squeezing it to ease weight transfer... That may the thing that make them the better driver; their driving habits... not the setup =)

Last edited by GenesisX, Thu, 14 Jan 2010 20:46. Reason : Misread of postings...

Yes, I guess. It'd be great if there was a spot as an option to run in a server for LFSTweak. I mean, I'd love to have an XRG with 160 hp revving 9000 RPM with 900 KG curb weight. But this would just lead to problems. You'd have DEMOs screwing up the place, and trying to tweak the XRG to XRT and stuff. There'd be problems, trying to get the LFSTweak online available only to S1s and S2s.

I do need to start utilizing more of the tools such as F1PerView and etc for improving my driving style =D

Good... I'm looking for a set too... Shitty DFP/GT pedals can go in the trash where they belong =P

If you are going to buy a DFGT/DFP priced wheel, you might as well go with the Fanatec wheel in the respective market segment. I do not exactly remember the name of that wheel, but it costs the same, and comes with 5 shifter, and clutch, if I'm not mistaken. I believe it is a gear driven, rather than the belt or whatever in the higher end ones...

EDIT: Disregard this if people say this is wrong. This is from the top of my head!