Well... I've just glanced at my wheel. Apparently, the adapting screws,etc, are at the back, and are only 3. Were there any compatiable aftermarkets available for the Driving Force Pro? They may be compatiable?

Yes... This has been mentioned a few thousand times now. It is fun to be able to upgrade an engine, or have better cosmetic effects... that may be why people like playing Drift City, and PT, but that is not the case here. It is about having the same specifications towards racing here. We depend on skills, and luck here and there. This suggestion may probably top the list... In fact, if you take a look at the list of suggestions (Je m'excuse, I don't have the link)... you'll see that beyond the conventional suggestion of engine tuning, a car with a V8, and the typical mountain passes, that there are more *important* things to be addressed such as Scirroco (that has been on since mid - 08 [now being 2010]), and the physics that will bring on Scirocco.

Trust me, new maps, new cars, and customization have been discussed many times now, and you can probably find a thread with the same information. If you want to become faster by using a higher performance engine, you can always learn to drive more efficiently to push the engine and the car to the limit. Now that is FUN! I mean, what is the fun with racing a UF1 with the LX6 :Wink:... Cosmetic effects, ehhh, skins? Suffice?

I don't think this LFS is about drifting, but about realism. You manipulate your car to drift. Thus drifting is a by-product, as I'd like to call it, and it probably shouldn't addressed to an improvement as a sole - entity by itself. Nothing actually made by devs will directly address the drifting community, while passively, or by third party maybe. That's how I'd think of it...

Well, I hope you enjoy your stay here!
Bienvenu, Spok23! Enjoy!

Regards,
GenesisX

EDIT: Stupid me. The list is the first sticky! Check it out there... You can see that it has been proposed and that this suggestion is useless...

Last edited by GenesisX, Sat, 26 Dec 2009 02:54.

I don't believe you need to have a PB to make sets that suit other people's needs, though that is what I look for in SetupGrid...

I've personally made sets that I just love... and I can't take sets that other people have made. They either oversteer like crazy (maybe because I suck with throttle modulation), or the tyres don't warm up fast enough (I am not pushing it hard enough). In any case, sets as I have known, are made to suit yourself. ----- On a side note, working with a PB set may help you work towards driving like him/her. The XFG sets for example don't work for me because I may just suck at driving! :sigh: I may need to learn to gradually open up the throttle, or adjust to the amount of understeer at corner exit.

I remember making a drift set for XRG (AND I SUCK AT DRIFTING IN ALL LFS (ACTUALLY EVERY SINGLE IN THE WORLD!) CARS when I was still driving DEMO. It doesn't drift and get you 50k pts, but I still like it! I remember hearing from this DEMO driver after posting it that he liked it also.

LOL!!! Has this been uploaded to LFSW yet!? ME want...

=D... LOL, I'll stay with my stock RX7 / S15 skins =)

Generally, people buy the DFGT because it harnesses sufficient amount of buttons. I for one, hate the buttons on the DFGT, and would rather have a MOMO - styled wheel, SPARCO, etc (like the G25). Are there wheels that I can replace the stock DFGT one with? Kits? Or would I hate to improvise?

I remember when I was developing my own sets for XRG (drifting on VHP), that there was an optimal shifting point (lets say 5600 RPM) which would be displayed on the dashboard with a shifting indicator light. Nowadays, this shift light is no longer here (on road going cars anyways). So, as a general rule, where would I shift? Before the rev - limiter, on the rev - limiter? How much?

I'm talking in regards to the XFG, where I am trying to get as much outta the thing. I see people shifting on 8k, where myself, I shift at around 7500 - ish. Will dynocharts help? I've lost my share of the S2 car dynocharts...

Anyways, TYIA

Thank you, Halo. I'll take a further look into that. To clarify "slow - in", I mean that the car feels rather sluggish, and doesn't react stimutaneous like other sets that I've tried (and may have not exactly fitted what I had in mind) to my inputs. I'll re - read the Setup Guides.

TYIA.

To be honest, all the 5770s out there are overpriced like hell. For heck, I can buy a 4890 for like the same or a lower price... However, I do like them. Go ahead, but make sure you buy a less expensive one...

It really does depend. First off, WHICH GTX2 are you getting!? A GTX295 will wipe the floor, where as even the GTX275 will destroy a HD5770. A GTX260 is on par with both the 5770 and 4870 which are both of almost equal ground. The 5770 though, being more new, may get better driver support in the future, and supports DX11 and tesselation. DX11 will probably run better than 10. I may doubt that the card though fine now, will have the firepower to run tesselation. Get 2 however, and you will have the power to last sometime. Get a 5850 =D

nVidia, you have CUDA, and all the general processing through C, and stuff... PhysX? interested? No? lol...
_______________

********* EDIT: I just read that you have a 8800GTS 512. What is the point of getting a 9800GTX+ if you are alrdy have a 8800GTS 512. All you get is the same f'king card with the same core but a different stepping, thus higher clocks. Seriously, unless you are getting a bombing card, no point of upgrade. Damn dude, many of us are still running cards with multiple pipelines! - Pre - DX10 cards! You are wasting your money! Save the money, and/or sell the card, and boast to everyone with a 5870! You can probably sell that card for $120 (70 Euros?) ********* --- upgrading to a 5770 may only yield 10 % more performance... Overclock those original G92s that I envy. All these new rebranded G92s are pissing me off, though I still love the original 8800GT / GTS =D

For me however, upgrading to even a 5750 will give me like 4x the performance! 7600GT sucks ass ~~~ though it runs LFS @ 1080p all high no hiccups =D

Last edited by GenesisX, Tue, 22 Dec 2009 04:07.

Hellow everyone!

I have some questions regarding XFG in BL1. I have custom made mine utilizing the Setup Creator, as I'd like to call it around 2-3 months ago; I've just returned to LFS just sometime ago... =)

I'll upload my current set for regards later. My current lap in BL1 is 1:34:64, in sequential. My regular lap goes around 1:35:50, usually more, on a good race, in the 1:35:35-ish range.

- I find it that if I use run a 5 lap race, that on the last lap, my car starts to oversteer a bit; in the sense that the tail gets really loose after loosening the gas for example.

* How can I make my tyres last longer? In general, what tyre pressure and camber settings would be good here. Tyre compound? Does suspension affect this?

- I find that my car is rather slow in the turn - ins. If I was to make it more nervous (so to say), I believe it was to add more toe in? How much should I 'toe in?'


GenesisX - TYIA

E5200 not able to run MW2? Kidding me right? These CPUs can run like E8400 with moderate overclocks. You can easily get 3.5 on stock air. Regarding the 3.2 Ghz P4? The P4s architectures were built to push out more clocks, but in sacrificing instructions per clock.

So you can easily run a 1.8 ghz E6300 and still run MW2, at which the E6300 would still murder, rape and whatever the P4. E5200 may have the name Pentium on it, but it is actually a Core 2 Duo (Conroe). The older Pentium Ds were the ones that you'd need to pump out 10000 Thz to run some old game . 1.8 ghz Athlon 3200+ = Pentium 4 @ 3.2 ghz. It is NOT all about clocks, but what you can do it the clocks.

DON't sweat it. Get more RAM, overclock the good CPU, and run the 4850 as if you knew that the E5200 @ 2.6 ghz is better than a Pentium 4 @ 6 ghz!

Nothing much about the PSU's wattage rating, but the amperage rating. You should get a good PSU with moderate amperage on the 12V rails, etc. My friend ran his quad Phenom and GTX260 and loads of RAM on a 450W PSU. No problem there. He upgraded to a TX750 though.

Utilizing dual channel isn't as good as it is hyped to be. It may only give up to 5 - 10% more performance, which really sucks. Get some good old memory, and get a new video card =)

In regards towards SLI and CF. You are absolutely right as one powerful card is better than 2 mediocre cards. However, these cards so good and such well priced at the consumer level, that SLI'ing or CF'ing them makes (sometimes) more sense than buying the whole card. Why? Get a 5770 now, and in a few months, pump it up and get another one. Whereas, you may have to wait the few months for the 5850 which now has gone up, and may cost as much as 2 x 5770s, but the CF setup will outperform the single card.

In addition to that, the games that you play will dictate the amount of performance gain you get in a multi graphics card setup. Some games may be morely optimized towards a SLI or Crossfire setup.

ATi drivers suck, and rarely utilize the maximum power of card, whereas the nVidia cards are loads better. -/-... This, however, means that a 5770 may get better and better and kill a 4870s @$$ ...

How good is Crossfire, and SLI? They are getting a lot better. Scaling has improved over the years, where it is actually possible of getting 2x the performance .

8800GTs in SLI will always beat up a 9800GT, hands down. And all high / mid end GTX2s will destroy the older 8/9 Series. A mere GTX260 (192) will kill any older single GPUIseries card with one exception in some SLI favoured games.(dual GPU 9800GX2). A GTX260 (216) 275, 280, 285, 295 will probably do the job.

What should you buy? Dictated by your budget and what you do with them. LFS? Haha, you can probably get away with that using a GT220 or something.

CPU-wise, a Core i7 is so powerful that it is more powerful than any old single core CPU (Northwood, Willemettes, Netburst - based, etc) CPUs at any speed. Probably even at 1 ghz considering its cycle efficient designs. Single core conroes may be a different story =D.

"DDR3 i5 modules that go up to 6GB". 4 GBs probably will be enough. Buy now, upgrade later =D. Unless you are doing some ultra workstation stuff, 4 GBs is more than plenty.

To kind of explain this in simplest terms, there is no perfect setup. It depends subjectively on the driver, and his style of driving. Now, you may hear this possibly 20 times on various youtube videos. It is true, such that I have discovered after a short period of time. I'd used to like fast drifting with the XRG in BL1. I would therefore, drive using an understeering setup, and low angles. I'd get around 100 km/h throughout the corner and 95 on exit.

However, I cannot do that anymore. Through skill fluxes, I've given up race drifting (DO NOT LAUGH AT ME), and I do a very show life drift through connectiing drifts. Regardless, I need practise. I haven't been on LFS much these days, with the humble amount of homework I have. I can't wait for the new physic updates though!

There is however, reasonable and stupid setups, such that you would probably NOT put an open (no diff.) or a viscous based diff. in the car. You would use a justifiable clutch based setting or locked.

EDIT: I'm probably looking into different tyre compounds on the front and back respecively for different performance and endurance.

SoftTH, TH2GO, or set in expanded view or w/e, and use the adjustable FOV fix.

EDIT: DISREGARD THE PRECEDING....

Apparently, there is something new going on in Z16. Sorry for the misleading post.

I'd better get Z16 first, shouldn't i?

Quote from rc10racer :

Gimma some data to support that theory cause that is utter bollocks, there should be no difference in overclock if you have 2/4/6/8 gigs of ram.

Talking about utter 'bollocks'. I can be running some crappy Pentium 4 on a quality X48 board, or whatever, and run 8GBs of ram. However, I can run an E8400 and 2GBs of ram, and that would make a whole beetch of a difference. Are you trying to tell us that a high quantity of memory can make up for the bottlenecks caused by the CPU? If that is the case, case - closed. There is no point of having 32GBs of ram in a 486 based CPU, if it can't even be addressed

In fact, I saw a really high PCM2006 Score with an ultra high clocked E8400, 2 4870x2 and 2gbs of ram!

8GBs of RAM doesn't cost that much, provided that your motherboard has 4 so-dimms. 2GB RAM Modules come cheap, depending on what you are buying. I can easily get 2x2GBs of Ram for $40, so you can easily get away for $80!

Last edited by GenesisX, Fri, 4 Sep 2009 03:22.

Quote from Jyzzz :

Hi. Well i got the dashboard of audi 80.
i want know how to make it work on Pc
Meybe anybody got some ideas?

This hardware is inevitably going to utilize OutGauge, right? I simply searched these keywords: "LFS Dashboard Outgauge' and found a result. Try reading it. I haven't read it myself, but I hope it helps you. I've seen such demos in work on Youtube. Is that what you want?

http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=23508

Quote from shaun463 :

I could take out my Intel Celeron D356 and put it in. I could get an ATi HD4350 to go with it too.

I'd insist that if you can, stay with your 'current' motherboard with an AGP x8 slot. The x800 (w/ BIOS upgrades) can probably destroy the 4350... right?

Quote from Shadowww :

Firstly, you need some basic GFX card to render to side monitor(s).
Secondly, you need freeware app called SoftTH.

The card you might buy could be ZOTAC GeForce 8400 GS.

I thought only the main GPU does the rendering, and the outputting side GPUs just output the video

Quote from Jakg :

Use gParted to wipe it and then use nLite (with the SATA etc drivers integrated) to slap a new OS on there.

nLiting my project eee got the XP CD down to 113 MB...

Just a question about the nLite. How did you get your installation CD down to 113mb. I've seen various that I thought would pose errors. The furthest I got was 245mb with SP2. Would you mind posting an configuration file for it?

I had a Ctrl + V to some sites that should not be talked about around here... Anyways, I have this other one on the clipboard...

Copy & Paste: C:\WINDOWS\inf\avbw7.inf

I also have something to add. It is important that you create or get a setup that suits your drifting style. For instance, I am a rather moderate low - to - mid drifting angle type of person... Thus I set my suspension for a rather mild oversteer, rather than a lot of oversteer for a show, or a tad understeer for speed. As far I am concerned, ride height doesn't have much to do with handling, (may have a little, but won't have dramatic changes like to dampers) except having too little will make your car very unstable and seldomly unpredictable. and will eventually ruin the suspension.

I remember reading something when I used to play GT4, which was around 6 months ago. He wrote something along the lines of this

Pros / Cons of High Ride Height

+ Can utilize a soft suspension
+ Easier to drive (soft) for beginners
+ Tolerance for a bumpy road
- Aesthetically disgusting
- Not as aerodynamic

This is what I do for tuning... may differ from others.

As for tuning the dampers, which is what I tune for the handling of the car, dampers, like what my friend g25 said. "They provide the resistance; they damp the force." After getting what I want, I tune the spring stiffness to work in harmony with it. Then I use the sway bars to tune the overall handling of the car, at any given time. Here I tune it to a mild oversteer; I am drifting, and my tires give understeer. At the same time, I don't want to be jamming my e-brake 10 times to get my rear to start sliding .

I generally use locked - dif. but that depends on you, where you are, and what type of driving you are doing. I'd like to use clutch based, but I have yet to learn it. Same applies to the drivetrain, which I've still to tune for good next gear revs. All in all, it depends on your driving, and your style.

To me, there is no such thing as the best setup. I may like flooring it out at corner exit, so I might need a tad of understeer for the corner exit. However, there may be setups that just make more sense than others. More usable . I may also like flooring the brakes, because I don't have delicate braking (I really don't =D), therefore, I'd need to weaken my braking power so that they don't lock, or adjust the brake balance so that my rear don't lock, but they all grip and apply force in harmony.

Do you get where I am going at? Good Luck, and enjoy your drifting here @ LFS.

Last edited by GenesisX, Fri, 28 Aug 2009 20:10.

3.5 ghz out of a 2.66 ghz is great. In the review, they state to actually turn off the energy saving options, to get an optimal overclock. Why? Because when the motherboard found out that the user was overclocking, it raised the vCore by itself. By the time the user got 66mhz in increase for the FSB, the vCore was too high to continue. His solution was to turn off these options, but you'd end up consuming a bit more at idle.

I hope this isn't a problem with XFX. XFX all the way

EDIT: Ehhh... I'm not sure how things work with E8400. I own a PDC over here... However, I've heard that stock coolers for them Nehalems are rather small. If you have another cooler, even stock 775 coolers, they'd probably do a better job. However, I'd really suggest you get one. You can get a stock for as little as $15 (not sure in UK). Generally, I'd think on an E8400 with a such small fab. process, a good cooler will pay for itself. You'll see performance that is worth more than the 20 euro. Easily, you can probably get 4 ghz. I've seen E5200 and E7200 do that (with some hard work, and a good batch ofc.) Optimally, aim for something around 4.3 I guess. Look at other people's 8400 setting, to help your own . Good Luck!

Last edited by GenesisX, Fri, 28 Aug 2009 19:52.

Yeah.

I learn something new everyday. I should do it like that then, next time I do an installation.