OMG... That is one horrendous impact, if it manages to shift a - what? 8-10 ton? vehicle...
How the hell were they even allowed to be there? Sitting right on the edge of the road on the outside exit of a fast corner is asking for trouble, even if it's elevated...
The "we can only see x FPS" is a myth - after all, our eyes don't work in FPS... Of course you wouldn't see any difference, as in your case the monitor is the bottleneck. If it cycles the frames only sixty times per second, you'll never see more than 60 frames (not counting any tearing) regardless of how many FPS your graphics card churns out - at racing speeds, you might cover meters between updates... 120 Hz is double the frames, therefore half the time between updates... Would you not agree that, provided the hardware can reliably output these high frame rates, this is beneficial in every way?
Well, they still turn in from the outermost point and kiss the apex, so they are taking the widest arc possible...
It's also not done to delay the weight transfer (which is one thing you don't even want to do) - setups soft enough to even have a measureable delay are not suitable for (road) track use. What you're probably seeing is the effect trailbraking has on the turn-in point - they're still braking hard, so too much steering input would overpower the front tyres and they would understeer off. Tyre load sensitivity makes it even more important. Other than that, (lateral) weight transfer has little to do with it.
It's also not done to delay the weight transfer (which is one thing you don't even want to do) - setups soft enough to even have a measureable delay are not suitable for (road) track use. What you're probably seeing is the effect trailbraking has on the turn-in point - they're still braking hard, so too much steering input would overpower the front tyres and they would understeer off. Tyre load sensitivity makes it even more important. Other than that, (lateral) weight transfer has little to do with it.
I got this one:
Charges from (sun)light, gets the time from radio signal - it's the perfect low maintenance watch, the only thing I do is change to summertime/DST or another timezone when I'm on the road... The build quality is excellent as well, this truly might just be the last watch I ever need...
http://www.edifice-watches.eu/euro/lineup/eqw-m710db-1a1er/
Charges from (sun)light, gets the time from radio signal - it's the perfect low maintenance watch, the only thing I do is change to summertime/DST or another timezone when I'm on the road... The build quality is excellent as well, this truly might just be the last watch I ever need...
http://www.edifice-watches.eu/euro/lineup/eqw-m710db-1a1er/
I've never seen it being used, but I have to agree with nacim here... From the posts here I understand it's just shifting the brake balance dynamically? If so, how is it different from throttle under braking?
On the other hand, I think the handbrake is limited to (half?) whatever the max brake force is set to. The solution therefore should be simple - do away with the nonsensical setting in favor of a much higher fixed (per car) max force... That would seriously limit the situations where the handbrake is useful. Maybe the force curve could be adjusted slightly like a different master cylinder would do in RL, but that's probably wishful thinking...
On the other hand, I think the handbrake is limited to (half?) whatever the max brake force is set to. The solution therefore should be simple - do away with the nonsensical setting in favor of a much higher fixed (per car) max force... That would seriously limit the situations where the handbrake is useful. Maybe the force curve could be adjusted slightly like a different master cylinder would do in RL, but that's probably wishful thinking...
I recently tested iRacing again after a longer hiatus and I have to say I'm quite impressed with the NTM5... In my opinion it still suffers from a bit too much drop off with higher slip angles, but for the first time since they started I was able to pinpoint why a spin happened rather than having wtf-moments... I mainly tried the RUF and the V8SC - the Porsche felt great out of the box (though maybe slow), the Ford needed the base setup from the forums to come alive and be enjoyable...
Backer here... Haven't tried the racing yet though... I don't think I could be setting records, focused more on being able to defend myself than speed - I think that's more useful most of the time... 
Hi Cheapo, nice to see so many new faces around here recently!
ER has taught you the basics well and you've done good to listen well...
1. You're describing three principles in one: the first is to use every inch of the track to make the corner as shallow as possible to carry as much speed through it as you can. Ideally, you should turn in from the outermost point of the track, clip the inside as far inside as possible, and the speed and your acceleration should carry the car to the outside edge again. Have they told you about early/late apex and how it's sometimes better/faster to compromise the corner?
The second is not to coast - usually every moment you're completely both off the brakes and off the throttle is one you're not getting the most out of the car. Now, it wouldn't be racing if there wasn't also an exception to this rule: the corner, the car and/or the setup may dictate a degree of coasting - you'll find out when to with experience.
Lastly, smoothness... A racing idiom is "smooth is fast". It is important to note though that this doesn't necessarily describes the input, but the movement of the car. An overpowered, heavy cow on too narrow tyres (like V8 Supercars or the NASCAR-series) will need to be driven gingerly (the orange your instructors were speaking of), while a small and light car (maybe even FWD) may need to be manhandled to really be fast. To go off into a tangent (a small glimpse into the rabbit hole that are tyres), tyres have the most traction when they are just slipping a little bit (called slip angle for lateral movement and slip ratio for longitudinal) - it is a knife edge balancing act. One side means being slow, the other may mean your race is over (in real life that means damage you have to repair/pay, but also injury).
2. There are maybe a handful of drivers better than modern ABS systems, so using it if you're allowed is certainly advantageous. Keep in mind though, as the tyres are locking for instants, it can have an impact on tyre wear... Also, full on the brakes may prevent you from turning in efficiently, as all the traction is used up for decelerating the car...
3. This comes back to smoothness, but you already have the right idea... If you're going down one gear, your engine is running much lower RPMs than the driveline, so clutching in too fast sends a jolt through the driveline which upsets the car balance and maybe even causes tyre lockup. Now, any of the three pedals can prevent this: clutch in slower, but that causes slip therefore higher wear and temperature on the clutch, let off the brakes slightly, but that means you compromise your braking possibly for longer than the jolt lasts, or you could speed up the engine in the time you're shifting, which means you need to learn the art of operating three pedals with two feet, or heel toe for short.
Heel toe doesn't mean that you use exactly your heels and your toes to push the pedals, any contortion of your body that lets you push the throttle while still keeping the same amount of braking is fine.
4. Trail braking is just keeping on the brake while you're already turning into the corner. It's just a technique to keep the balance where you want it. Some cars (or better: some setups) don't like trail braking, while others almost require it. For example: if your car already pivots over the front wheels if you only think about turning you'll probably only swap ends with trail braking, whereas if it understeers heavily on turn in, trail braking will help alleviate that.
Brake balance is also an important factor: a balance too much forward will only overpower the front tyres and you'll only plough straight on, too much to the rear and you'll also just swap ends...
Phew, long text - seems I've written even more than you, hopefully you find these long-winded answers useful...
ER has taught you the basics well and you've done good to listen well...
1. You're describing three principles in one: the first is to use every inch of the track to make the corner as shallow as possible to carry as much speed through it as you can. Ideally, you should turn in from the outermost point of the track, clip the inside as far inside as possible, and the speed and your acceleration should carry the car to the outside edge again. Have they told you about early/late apex and how it's sometimes better/faster to compromise the corner?
The second is not to coast - usually every moment you're completely both off the brakes and off the throttle is one you're not getting the most out of the car. Now, it wouldn't be racing if there wasn't also an exception to this rule: the corner, the car and/or the setup may dictate a degree of coasting - you'll find out when to with experience.
Lastly, smoothness... A racing idiom is "smooth is fast". It is important to note though that this doesn't necessarily describes the input, but the movement of the car. An overpowered, heavy cow on too narrow tyres (like V8 Supercars or the NASCAR-series) will need to be driven gingerly (the orange your instructors were speaking of), while a small and light car (maybe even FWD) may need to be manhandled to really be fast. To go off into a tangent (a small glimpse into the rabbit hole that are tyres), tyres have the most traction when they are just slipping a little bit (called slip angle for lateral movement and slip ratio for longitudinal) - it is a knife edge balancing act. One side means being slow, the other may mean your race is over (in real life that means damage you have to repair/pay, but also injury).
2. There are maybe a handful of drivers better than modern ABS systems, so using it if you're allowed is certainly advantageous. Keep in mind though, as the tyres are locking for instants, it can have an impact on tyre wear... Also, full on the brakes may prevent you from turning in efficiently, as all the traction is used up for decelerating the car...
3. This comes back to smoothness, but you already have the right idea... If you're going down one gear, your engine is running much lower RPMs than the driveline, so clutching in too fast sends a jolt through the driveline which upsets the car balance and maybe even causes tyre lockup. Now, any of the three pedals can prevent this: clutch in slower, but that causes slip therefore higher wear and temperature on the clutch, let off the brakes slightly, but that means you compromise your braking possibly for longer than the jolt lasts, or you could speed up the engine in the time you're shifting, which means you need to learn the art of operating three pedals with two feet, or heel toe for short.
Heel toe doesn't mean that you use exactly your heels and your toes to push the pedals, any contortion of your body that lets you push the throttle while still keeping the same amount of braking is fine.
4. Trail braking is just keeping on the brake while you're already turning into the corner. It's just a technique to keep the balance where you want it. Some cars (or better: some setups) don't like trail braking, while others almost require it. For example: if your car already pivots over the front wheels if you only think about turning you'll probably only swap ends with trail braking, whereas if it understeers heavily on turn in, trail braking will help alleviate that.
Brake balance is also an important factor: a balance too much forward will only overpower the front tyres and you'll only plough straight on, too much to the rear and you'll also just swap ends...
Phew, long text - seems I've written even more than you, hopefully you find these long-winded answers useful...
From what I've heard, those actually weren't marshalls but a private security firm... But it's a shame nonetheless - if they don't know anything about rally they should stick to concerts where it's accepted for security to be ****s...
Right, I had the tyre physics in mind and forgot that everything else is on another process... My bad!
No. Just no.
Here is an article about rough ... an example about racing. Granted, it's about lower frame rates than discussed here, but there is no way two frames are ever the same except you're not moving. Also, there is no single argument against higher framerates: more = better, every time. Whether you get to see them is just a matter of your hardware...
The opposite, in fact - pretty much all cars have a "dead pedal" because of the wheel arch extending into the footwell... I guess not leaving enough space for RHD cars is an oversight due to their market share combined with globally identical, therefore cheaper panels... 
That would be true hadn't the devs themselves given permission to port demo-level stuff to other games as long as they are credited properly...
And so Blackwood made an appearance in pretty much every other sim that supports add-on tracks...
Stagnation, (too) stable - good points, although I see it another way: the racing itself is too static, which allows for certain setups to be "perfect" (given the skill of the driver of course)...
It has been my opinion for a long while that even one dynamic element, be it track conditions or weather (both please!), would make this whole discussion obsolete - as there is no perfect solution if you don't know what comes next. It would also open up the possibility of vastly different but still viable strategies, further decreasing the need of having that "one" setup...
Get your wallets out, Summer Sale has begun and will run through the rest of June... Most of the games of the first day I've seen discounted before, but it's worthy to note that there is a preorder-deal: Dead Rising 3 has gotten -25 %...
Community vote has changed, you now choose between two themed packs of four games you want on sale next...
Community vote has changed, you now choose between two themed packs of four games you want on sale next...
I'm no expert but afaik the only location you really hear the combustion is out of the exhaust (and even there it is usually extremely muffled)...
Just yesterday I thought an agreement with Polestar would yield some very interesting race cars for AC...
I wouldn't read too much into it... First, the mic wasn't quite up to the task (evidenced by the regular audio clipping) and second, first hand experience taught me what you hear in a video/broadcast doesn't correlate to the real thing at all...
No shit - everything is down, even the community sites... 
Also, what's up with community voting? The brief instance I got to the store page it said voting has ended but you still could rate workshop or greenlight... Does that mean you have to buy stuff to get cards? That would be a shame, I already own the titles on offer I'm interested in, and the voting at least kept the chance of completing the badge...
Also, what's up with community voting? The brief instance I got to the store page it said voting has ended but you still could rate workshop or greenlight... Does that mean you have to buy stuff to get cards? That would be a shame, I already own the titles on offer I'm interested in, and the voting at least kept the chance of completing the badge...
Quite silly indeed, although not in the way you would expect...
I can certainly understand that boasting a grand announcement that turns out to be DLC while they are still in alpha stage is bewildering, especially given their track record... True, they seem to have a great foundation to build on, but please show me that you can stick to the product at hand before jumping onto the next project...
Please also note that I haven't said anything about pricing or money so far - I've spent far too much money on other sims with only a shitty rendition of the real thing to stop me getting this as well, if it comes to it... It's amusing the conclusions you guys come to though, I doubt even KS knows what they will/can/should charge... The cars could well turn out to be a dealbraker - you can be sure that the manufacturers will milk KS for everything they have, now that they've committed themselves to get the top-voted cars...
Last edited by bbman, .
What I can't figure out from the announcement - will it be in the base game or will you need to buy the dream pack DLC?
To be honest, the graphics aren't as good as they can be, which is mostly down to the typical game-glossiness...
As much as it pains me to say it, GT6 has it bang on... Resizing may have helped, but there was more than a few screenshots where it literally took seeing it three times to realize it wasn't a photo...
As much as it pains me to say it, GT6 has it bang on... Resizing may have helped, but there was more than a few screenshots where it literally took seeing it three times to realize it wasn't a photo...
Soo... Early access just gone live on Steam...
Will you get it or has the time passed for it?
For me, I'm on the fence... I still like the concept very much, yet I've bought quite a few games recently and it's not like I'm getting far behind seeing the alpha will be going for a while...
Will you get it or has the time passed for it?
For me, I'm on the fence... I still like the concept very much, yet I've bought quite a few games recently and it's not like I'm getting far behind seeing the alpha will be going for a while...
Oh no, I smudged the phone number of that hot pit girl!
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG