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Quote from nikopdr :FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU-hi

Yey for Pall Mall!
Currently in talks with some guys from the US about parts that may be available for my Engine. They use a F22B1 and F23A1 in there Accords. They put out less power than my 2.0 F20B6, but the blocks are the same. I'm curious whether I could retro fit US parts onto my UK engine.

Either that or I fit in a H22A7 from the Type R Accord....

:eclipseeh
Quote from Nathan_French_14 :Currently in talks with some guys from the US about parts that may be available for my Engine. They use a F22B1 and F23A1 in there Accords. They put out less power than my 2.0 F20B6, but the blocks are the same. I'm curious whether I could retro fit US parts onto my UK engine.

Either that or I fit in a H22A7 from the Type R Accord....

:eclipseeh

How about an FC20?

http://youtu.be/WS1CL-n_KRI
(RWD is always more fun)
Screw that, get an S85B50 instead.
T22 R3X1222KPB is what you guys want man what you guys talkin about!??!?!?!
Quote from nikopdr :FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU-hi

Hahahaha, time for a new car
Ford Europe can suck my balls. The speed at which a Ford rusts is unbelievable. I need to weld up more of my van, which developed in the 12 months since the last MoT where I had to weld up the back end. But this is the last time, if she fails next years MoT for rust reasons or needs more than £200 to put right, she is turning into a baked bean tin.

Although the guy I was talking to said it was the first time ever he has seen rust in this place. Being a van she is leaf sprung and where the leaf mounts in the midsection of the van on both sides, holes have developed. So yet again Vanessa is setting records because this is the 5th time someone has said "wow, I've never seen that happen before" when looking at her.
That's what you get with Italian steel..
Yay for manufacturer bashing because of a single bad car
On my Polo the control arm broke while I was going 80 km/h. Surprise of my ****ing life.
Doesn't nescessarily make VW bad tho
Quote from RasmusL :Yay for manufacturer bashing because of a single bad car
On my Polo the control arm broke while I was going 80 km/h. Surprise of my ****ing life.
Doesn't nescessarily make VW bad tho

Not really a single bad car though is it? Ford have a reputation for making rust buckets since before my parents were children, they are both in their 50's now. Rear wheel arches on Fords are the first place to go. Just because of the lip where they fold the steel round for strength, it'll only take plastic lining or a good waxoil to prevent that, but even new Fords have the same problem.

I'd rather spend the extra £500 a car, which is about what they save in materials, to get a car that lasts.
So why did you buy an old Ford then?
Because when I have a thing for the Escort Van. Which is why you should never put looks before substance.
Quote from P5YcHoM4N :Not really a single bad car though is it? Ford have a reputation for making rust buckets since before my parents were children, they are both in their 50's now. Rear wheel arches on Fords are the first place to go. Just because of the lip where they fold the steel round for strength, it'll only take plastic lining or a good waxoil to prevent that, but even new Fords have the same problem.

I'd rather spend the extra £500 a car, which is about what they save in materials, to get a car that lasts.

Just like the old Metro, and that's why you don't see any Mk1 fiestas around, cos they've all died. Apart from some expensive resoration attempts.
Quote from jibber :How about an FC20?

http://youtu.be/WS1CL-n_KRI
(RWD is always more fun)

I did look into fitting the F20C, but it's too much work unfortunately. RWD would be possible, but it's just too much work and I want to keep the chassis relatively untouched. FWD is not possible, as the gearbox would be on the wrong side.

The F20C cylinder head does fit onto my F20B6, which is awesome. Might look into fitting that at some point.
I've never seen a Ford rust. Then again, I've never seen a Ford mechanically sound long enough to worry about rust.

Toyotas rust, Nissans rust, Hondas rust because they are still running mechanically past 100,000 miles....
No rust on my car.

I HAZ A FEW CHILDREN STILL IN ZE HOUSEHOLT.
Quote from mrodgers :I've never seen a Ford rust.

Were talking Ford Europe here remember...

My girlfriends Ka is covered in rust along the sills, to my knowledge I don't think it ever got any underseal from the factory. Just had to have a load of welding to get through it's MOT...

If I take a 75 for example, i've only seen one that required any welding - and that was due to a poor body repair which let rust in.

The ZT has a few tiny patches of rust where the mudflaps used to be thanks to them holding stones / moisture... will fix it over the Summer.
Quote from mrodgers :I've never seen a Ford rust. Then again, I've never seen a Ford mechanically sound long enough to worry about rust.

Lol, too true.
Quote from mrodgers :I've never seen a Ford rust.

It may be different in america, but it was certianly the trend over here in the 80's and 90's that fords rot out quite badly.

In 1989 my parents bought one of these brand new, a mk4 escort, and when it went for its very first MOT (once it reached 3 years old) it needed welding work on the rear sills to pass, and the wheel arches had already started to bubble.

My Ford is 8 years old and not a single sign of rust anywhere on it.
And on the subject of Fords, heres what a van did to my Mum's Fiesta yesterday...







Bumpers gone, crashbars gone, mounts for crashbar have all moved quite a lot, parcel shelfs popped out (suggesting some deformation up there), boot lids gone, boot no longer opens, wouldn't be suprised if the boot floor is compressed.
If the floors creased or chassis members are kinked under the rear they'll almost certianly write it off i would imagine, once a crumple zone has crumpled they are hardly worth repairing usually
car has been mapped now, here is the power graph

Quote from mrodgers :I've never seen a Ford rust. Then again, I've never seen a Ford mechanically sound long enough to worry about rust.

Toyotas rust, Nissans rust, Hondas rust because they are still running mechanically past 100,000 miles....

Ford America is different to Ford Europe. A Ford Europe engine will out last the body by leaps and bounds. My engine has put down over 100k and so far all I've needed is a new clutch, exhaust, brake pads and clutch ratchet (it is plastic when it should be metal). The body on the other hand. New sills front to rear, the rear arches are gone, the surround to the fuel filler cap is covered in rot, this is the second major welding project I've had to carry out since owning the vehicle and after a quick check on VOSA, it is the 6th project since it rolled off the factory floor.

The first being the mount for the driver side seat belt was excessively corroded. That was only 5 years from the factory floor. The year later the passenger mount went the same way.
My Honda has two spots of rust right behind the front struts. Water runs behind the struts, a little pool is created and that eventually eats through the firewall, which it has done on mine. It's a really bad idea from Honda to not have any drainage system there.

For now, I have blocked up the holes with silicone. I will fix it eventually, but it's a big job. Engine and Gearbox has to come out, as well as the whole dash and front end of the interior....

Apart from that, there is no rust anywhere else. Not even on the arches! Woop!
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