Quote from gezmoor :

Tosh. That's rubbish, sorry. It's a rule that was made up by Insurance companies to make their job easy, not because it has any genuine merit.

The "theory" being if you are driving slow enough, with enough space and being attentive you should never hit the person in front. But the reality isn't like that. Driving on the road is only possible if people behave in predictable ways. If someone emergency stops in front of you for no reason you're going to tail end them. End of story. Why? because its IMPOSSIBLE to have a large enough gap between you and the vehicle in front in the real world. Why? because someone will pull in front of you and fill it. So what are drivers expected to do? keep backing off and end up going backwards?

Sorry but in the real world, a more pragmatic approach is called for. Over simplistic "rules" that don't fit with reality only suit certain parties, and have no basis in truth with regard to finding fault.

Come and try driving in London for a day and see how far you get with your simplistic idealistic point of view.

Since I got my licence I've had enough idiots slamming on the brakes for no good reason right in front of me, thank you very much... Still, I always stopped in time... I also don't recall going backwards, at least not without the others breaking the speed limit...

Quote from speed1 :

Actually, thats by definition defensive driving, or paying attention to traffic around you. Anytime I hit the brakes, I subconsciously glance in my rear view mirror to see what traffic behind me is doing. Judging from that statement you made, I'm sure (whether of not you admit it), you just go when the light turns green. Admittedly, I often do as well, but I've avoided being hit by a light runner at least twice now by looking left and right. You've got to remember, I live in America, the home of some of the worst imaginable drivers. You've got to watch for dumbasses texting, dumbasses reaching for something on the floor, dumbasses doing makeup, dumbasses that are drunk, and so on.

I differentiate between being aware of one's surroundings and frantically checking every direction for some idiot... I guess driving standards and enforcement of red lights might be better over here...

Quote from tristancliffe :

Not always and without exception. It's perfectly possible to be at fault in the leading car, it's just rarer.

If you rear-end someone, you didn't leave enough space and/or went too fast. There is no possible way you can make an exception to that.

Quote from speed1 :

Plus, what happens if that truck behind you cant stop in time. You probably arent going to be able to get it in gear fast enough to avoid being rear ended.

Then he's an idiot who needs his licence revoked - granted that might not interest you anymore then, but still... If you rear-end someone, it is ALWAYS and WITHOUT EXCEPTION your fault! I would stop driving if I'd have to be always on the lookout for cars behind me to avoid an accident...

Quote from legoflamb :

Yeah "chap" only the cool kids say it. You know the kids that read books, go to comic-con, and play D&D in our mum's basement.

I have said that it was most common in the larger SUV type vehicles. Also most cars don't have 0% Ackerman-steering. That would be hard to test in your car unless the car had different steering rod mounting positions.

Why test? You only have to look:

Quote from SS_Kristoffer :

I wasnt asking how to set my car up. I needed to know if anyone else thought the locked diff didnt seem 'locked'

The LSD with everything on full (80%/80%, with full preload) Feels tighter then the locked diff and it shouldnt be this way.

oh well, i appreciate the comments.

Well, preload at full makes it a locked diff basically - I doubt you'll ever get that torque difference between the two wheels to overcome that preload...

Quote from speed1 :

Something else I've never understood, why put it in neutral in the first place? Clutches arent that hard to hold down and (I'm comparing it to every other manual transmissioned cars that I've driven, and what I've been told by a few people now) my CR-V has a fairly heavy clutch (thanks in part to wear; its a fairly heavy, underpowered car with around 100k miles on it that 3 or 4 people have learned on).

Two reasons: The clutch plates might not disconnect entirely, so you're wearing them out without even knowing it, and maybe more probable, you can always slip off the clutch - telling the police that the accident happened because you didn't want to put it in neutral will make it pretty hard to plead innocent...

And you might think they aren't that hard, but just try to press the pedal with your right foot for a change...

You're right, I misread that...

Quote from george_tsiros :

and in the end, if someone does not have the smarts to understand the underlying mechanics, it is better to tell him "when going down a hill, go slower than you would go on a level surface and use your brakes to keep a steady speed" instead of "when going down a hill you need to determine the optimum gear, revs and ratio of engine brake to foot brake, based on inclination, curvature, the brakes' performance, your engine's braking so as to drive safe, keep the brakes from overheating, keep the engine from overrevving..."

It might be because I happen to live in a country full of mountains, but what is so hard to understand at "when you're going downhill, keep it in gear or you're dead"?

To the original question (poll is less then useless): test have found out that full throttle to the desired speed and then holding a steady speed yields best economy (actually full throttle and coasting down saves more but you'll get into trouble with law enforcement pretty soon with that)...

Quote from CSU1 :

Throttle + brake = unhappy clutch, no?

Nope, clutch has nothing to do with it... The problems you get can vary between nothing via glazing to overheating, but the clutch isn't affected in any way by throttle + brake...

As Glenn said, FWDs are usually set up to oversteer on coast to get the car to turn, but as you said you're feeling the steering go light I'm guessing the front tyres are helplessly overpowered by all your inputs and when braking is done and they bite again you just have too much steering on...

Generally though it's all about weight shift management with FWD... Try conciously rolling on and off the brakes and keep the coasting to a minimum (to a point where you don't coast at all), that should help keep the oversteer in check...

Quote from Woz :

You are wrong...

0 gives linear but 1 also gives linear if you wheel has equal or more lock that the associated LFS car.

So if you set your steering to 720 or above and wheel comp = 1 you will always get 1:1 steering for all lfs cars. Wheel comp 1 is the only setting you should use with DFP/G25 when using 720 lock.

For the OP, play with your brake bias to see if that helps with entry oversteer. As you are under braking load and the weight bias is forwards it makes the rear light.

0 is linear and is always the lock you have set in your drivers/Profiler, 1 is linear and always the lock the cars in LfS have (ie 270° in the MRT)...

Last edited by bbman, Sat 10 Oct 2009, 20:23.

Quote from ChiliFan :

I dunno, this is kinda drizzly (is that a word?).

http://img183.imageshack.us/im ... gplongsupergtrainsmal.jpg

Best rainshot EVAR!

Quote from legoflamb :

Actually this does happen. I have had my share of supermarket jobs, getting the shopping-carts from where ever people have left them in the parking-lot, and had frequently heard >5mph tire squealing when ever certain cars park. I have noticed that it is most common in larger S.U.V. type vehicles. It happens when their wheel is cranked to full lock and they are pulling in to a parking space.

I have no recorded evidence of this. However, from my experience I know slow speed tire squeal does happen in real life.

Now I know that carparks often use a very slick surface so I wouldn't be surprised, nevertheless are you sure you've not mistaken the noise the power steering makes at full lock for squealing tyres?

Open diff seems good, I haven't found any oddities with that... As for the ABS, it's very basic but it does the job...

Overall, I find the Jetta the most fun to drive but I don't dare enter races with it, too close the times, too low the licence (not that higher ones are idiotproof either)...

Quote from Feffe85 :

that should be in a PM to the devs.. not here..

Well, if someone likes to get banned from ever uploading hotlaps again for the short fame of having a WR for maybe half a day until Victor can take it down, he sure can try...

On the topic of the dash symbols: Why is the symbol for the lights on the full beam one? Shouldn't it be low beam? Maybe add full beam with the same second brightness layer as the brake light...

Also, I don't know if it's intended or not, but other than the camera control keys and chat the keyboard isn't working in Shift+U mode...

Apart from the penalties, boring race...

And why the hell was Toyota allowed to run winglets again - not only on, but under the rear wing?!

The only thing I don't like about it is that there is nothing to adjust the look sensitivity (look with steering)... Other than that, top notch work!

Quote from somasleep :

Right now I'm enjoying games like Dirt 2, Shift or GT5 P because they're not intimidating. I can just jump in and race and learn as I go.

You can do that with LfS too... You even don't have to race right away (although it's possible if you don't mind not winning), just watch the others racing... You'll learn much quicker observing others than to figure it all out on your own - at least I do...

Quote from jakeeatworld :

No. But it is well know by running over the chicane can dramatically increase the drivers chance of picking up a puncture.
It's simple. The car runs over the curbs and can possibly damage the side wall in the tyre, this could be a split or whatever which then under the immense forces around corners such as church and noble worsens these "splits" eventually leading to a puncture. Of course this is not gaurenteed but running those curbs early on in the race may cost you in the end.

Another scenario: ramming over such curbs causes the tyre to compress so hard that the rim is essentially cutting the rubber, causing a massive sudden blowout...

Sunshine in the Porsche Supercup Race - not looking good for an exceptional race... KERS will win...

It would've fit well on a T-Shirt if you had bothered with cleaning it up a bit...

Quote from lizardfolk :

Uhh...no she isn't?

Drivers in premier open wheel series before Danica:
F1: Lella Lombardi, Desire Wilson (who won a non points F1 race), Giovanna Amati, Maria Teresa de Filippis
ChampCar: Katherine Legge
IRL: Lyn St. James, Sarah Fisher

I think I got them all, although I might be missing a few

How could you forget Group B Michelle Mouton! :chair:

She even almost won a championship, not just one race...

Yeah, the new tyre physics may improve the tyre marks as well... However, I don't find the marks too much, it's just that they're too dark at the lower levels (they should start barely visible)...

Quote from MadCat360 :

I don't really understand that. If the body is leaning less then the G forces are less. If the G forces are less then the MPH is less for the same corner or radius. If the MPH is less the average MPH goes down, so does lap time.

No, you're forgetting tyre load sensitivity: the more you load a tyre, the less (relative) traction it will have - thus it's best to load inside and outside tyres evenly...

I'd imagine most WR will stay at about the same level and if they go down, it'll be only slightly...

What will change radically are how people will set their diffs - locked diffs should be gone with the new patch...

Quote from samjh :

Awesome work by Fisichella and Force India! The bookies must be banging their heads on their desks.

Now, the BMWs... are they back in the game? They seem to come and go.

Nicky Lauda commented that due the low temperatures in Spa, the "rubbish cars that always struggled with tyre temperature suddenly have their temperatures in the operating window"... Could be an explanation - we'll see if they suck in Monza again...

Quote from Highside! :

I've been working on a goal of trying to master the XFG @ Blackwood, and so far I've gotten into the 33.5's. As I've been focusing on using every inch of track surface to shave off time, I'm having a lot of trouble with the car sliding as a result of touching dirt. I can clip a small amount of grass in a corner, run all the way down a long straight, and then slide off of the track as if I hit a patch of oil in the next corner. I've also noticed that sometimes you only have to touch a rumble strip to put the tires into "dirt mode". Is this just poor implimentation of the effects of dirt on tires, or is there something I'm not getting?

If you have the dirt indicator in the F9 display showing that your tyres are indeed dirty, then yes - otherwise you're probably experiencing the effect a cambered corner has on handling...

Quote from Highside! :

I'll do some racing tonight and try to capture an example on a replay. The final left hander before start/finish is the main area that I seem to get dirt without touching dirt. If I run a bit wide and put 2 wheels on the rumble strip, the car will then push the front end a bit in turn 1. Maybe there is some sort of setup issue involved with what is happening, but I believe I'm using the most recent Nilex set from Team Inferno, so I would think that setup is as good as any. Although I see replays of the fastest guys taking liberties in the same spots I am, but it doesn't seem to have nearly as drastic of an effect on their cars.

You're sure you haven't clipped the grass a bit by ramming over that curb and presumably be launched in the air quite a bit? The faster guys may already take that bit of dirt into account already and/or are just plain faster through the corner even with dirty tyres...