I've been having a go now and then with AC and have been trying to like it. But somehow it doesn't click. When running around below the limit the general feeling is quite good. But when I push the cars start displaying all sorts of behavior that don't feel natural to me.
First there is the dreaded snap-back when correcting minor slides. I am more likely to spin from the snap-back than from the original oversteer. Something you never see in real life.
Then you have the extreme mid-corner understeer that even increases when you add some throttle. Is there a more unsatisfying trait a car can have than power-on-understeer?
Then there's the fact that you can't turn in when you are still on the brakes a bit, the car just goes straight. In real life drivers brake into corners to but vertical load on the front tyres to reduce turn-in understeer.
And in general anything with less than 500 bhp feels sluggish and unresponsive.
To top it off the graphics don't look anywhere near as good as in the screenshots. I've tried all the AA/AF settings and the tracks are just blurred and low-detail.
I know that I've generalized a lot in the above comments and maybe I just haven't driven the right car/track/setup combo. So can anybody give me some advice what I should be driving? Or could it be that my old DFP is just too sluggish to give me enough feel for AC?
On a sidenote, I also tried RaceRoom Experience today and thought it wasn't too bad. So maybe I've just gone crazy?
And some optimisation of graphics wouldn't go a miss. Even at decent fps there seems an unusual stutter that annoys me and makes me feel sea sick This graphics issue is just me and it probably just needs some tweaking and reading to solve by me but meh I want it uber right out of the box and it needs to be uber right out of the box if it's to be a success. The reason most of my real life friends don't play pc sims is simply down to they are not 'plug and play'.and I sympathise with them....tweak this, teak that, tweak everything does becomes tiresome.
i think thats just the silly vibration when you lock up under braking
but yeah it does help quite a bit to make the wheel feel much much better and more like lfs if you turn all of those stupid effects off
doesnt remove the weird physics though which seem to get worse the slower you go
Not sure about graphics. I get high track detail when I set it to high with 16X AF, 4X AA, (GPU uses in-game application settings) and shadows to maximum, but the performance hit is too much. FOV has a lot to do with it too and too high a FOV ruins the details (I'm comfortable with 60-65 degrees of FOV at 1080P).
I drive the DFP like you do. Kerb effects 100%, all other effects off. No in-game damping or filter, 70% in-game strength. This is the only racing game where I feel that the wheel is not fast enough to correct the car, so I have to forcibly countersteer. Sometimes I countersteer too quickly and cause the car to snap in the wrong direction. Finding the correct wheel settings helps a lot but...
I think you are right in that the cars snap-oversteer very violently. I know it's realistic that cars snap back and forth violently due to the suspension springing back to the opposite side, but the effect feels boosted in this game. Also, if you have tire wear on, the tires heat up unrealistically quickly making the car hard to handle after a lap or two of aggressive driving.
This feeling translates to all cars. It feels more natural for race cars because those cars are typically unforgiving, but the road cars share the same ultra-violent snap-oversteer and quickly deteriorating tires.
Of course this game is in Alpha and for an Alpha it feels pretty good. I hope they address these issues soon.
Okay, well I fixed some of the snap-oversteer issue by lowering the force feedback force from 75% to 65%.
The DFP is too slow to react to quick changes and at times, I was fighting the force feedback to correct a skid, only to find that the force feedback is preventing me from correcting my overcorrections fast enough. Now that I lowered the force feedback, I can correct much quicker and the wheel feels more communicative (too much FFB made the wheel feel more like an on-off switch).
However, the weight transfer in this game still feels a tad overexaggerated. By how much I don't know, but I wish I had a faster, more modern wheel to test it out.
EDIT: It's either the weight transfer, or the suspension systems are more temperamental than a corgi that was denied a treat.
Given how much wheels have improved since 2003 when the DFP was released, it stuns me that people are still using something that is way too numb and slow compared to the driving pleasure that modern wheels offer. G25/G27 is what I'd think of being the current standard of affordable wheels, T500 and CSW being in the enthusiast tier.
There is some ffb clipping going on somewhere that I just can't figure out. Very evident in the F40. On the straights of modern Monza the wheel is alive and feels like I think it would in an old supercar. Start turning and the wheel coes into constant force mode. The bar ingame stays grey, but very even, where on the straight it's jumping and oscillating. So I think the clipping is in the code somewhere, and no amount of fiddling with the control settings will fix it.
Also the VERY simplistic engine model and turbo model is ruining the F40 a little. The chassis is one of the better I've tried in a sim so far, but the unrealistic bump in the torque curve ruin the feeling a little, since the turbo lag is such a prominent feature of the F40.
It shows ffb, and it never clips there. It goes up to about 85% on the bar unless I hit major bumps. But it still clip the ffb severely as soon as I turn the wheel a little. This is with the T500RS, which many users complain about lacking ffb, so it might be a compatability issue.
That it does.... That it does. 599 for me, gives the best feeling for a car on AC with a fair bit of downforce. The Zonda and the M3 GT2 and Z4 GT3 feel on rails to me and I don't get much feeling from them. Unfortunately.
Afaik the force feedback bar shows AC's FFB "signal strength", but doesn't include FFB strength from drivers. I don't have an FFB device so I can't know for sure (but changing the FFB strength in game affects the FFB bar even for me), but it could be clipping even if it doesn't show it on the graphic. I would take the FFB strength to zero in the drivers, and then slowly keeping increasing it to see where it starts to clip.