I don't get it, you say 13.6 is poor by any standard yet you then say that the car isn't standard?

It's got 240bhp, which isn't a great deal, but it's 90bhp more than when standard, not a great deal?

You obviously don't understand what the car is, which isn't there to be zomg amazing 4 sec 1/4 mile, because what use is that when practising things that you will use on customers cars?

This car is just a limit to what can be done, sure it has a few mods but considering just how standard it is, it's crazy to see it under 14 seconds. Which is what customers want, how big do you think their customer base is with cars they use for the road and for fun? Then how many customers do you reckon they have trying to push sub 10 seconds on the 1/4 mile.....

I've been in a car doing 15.5 seconds on the 1/4 mile, then a car doing very low 14s, low 14s was a 2.5T soarer with over 300bhp, to think of a 1.8 golf beating that being "piss poor".

Lol worthy.

Quote from Nathan_French_14 :

Nothing to do with a "lifetime" of experience. It's just that from what I have seen, VAG TDi's running mild remaps do not need an uprated clutch.

Mild? I would hardly say a 35% increase in power/torque is mild...

Unless your friend actually got a 'mild' remap to preserve the life of other components.

Like I said above, if your kind to the car in the lower gears and rev range then you'll get away with a standard clutch and a harsh remap, but if you want to use the car properly then...yea.

Quote from Bawbag :

Mild? I would hardly say a 35% increase in power/torque is mild...

Unless your friend actually got a 'mild' remap to preserve the life of other components.

Like I said above, if your kind to the car in the lower gears and rev range then you'll get away with a standard clutch and a harsh remap, but if you want to use the car properly then...yea.

I would.

Well each to there own about the Clutch, but I know for a fact you can get away with using an OEM clutch on them and do many worry free miles. An OEM one is fine for most people. Nowadays, who really goes full throttle in first gear everywhere they go?

Me.

Quote from dawesdust_12 :

Me.

Every single time? I doubt it.

Quote from Nathan_French_14 :

I would.

Meh. Went from 106bhp to 149bhp and from 190lb ft to 264 or something. That's a big gain, basically 1/3rd as near as makes no difference. Timed 0-60 with ESP on was 7.89 seconds. Much better than the 10.2 or there abouts it did before.

Quote :

@ Jamie! You say the clutch started juddering? Don't take my word for it as it is obviously quite hard to diagnose a car over the interwebz, but it sounds like your pressure plate could be acting up.

It only judders when under large throttle openings in 5th around 1500-1750rpm where I guess the combination of torque and clutch wear is causing it to be silly?

Quote :

My Honda does exactly the same thing (Juddering when on the biting point, but no slipping admittedly.) and it is the pressure plate that is causing the problem on my car.

When I used to reverse into my parking space (it's on a small incline) it used to judder but doesn't so much anymore.

So a new clutch would fix it either way?

also i do.

Ah, it judders when moving? So obviously at that point, your completely off the clutch correct? Hmm, I thought you meant it judders when on the biting point.

Anyway, yes, a new clutch would fix the juddering issue. A new clutch kit includes a new pressure plate (which is obvious, as pressure plates are integral to the clutch). Also, most clutch kits come with new release bearings. Nevertheless, make sure yours does.

how about flywheel? if its dual mass like bmw,could be that

I'll soon get a new clutch and diff for the S2000. The diff is on my account (too much sideways fun on the track), the clutch... i don't know, early models are known to have issues, i guess it was just bad luck it went so early (80'000km).

I have talked to a tech guy from Honda switzerland regarding the differential. I was thinking about getting something stronger since the OEM diff was ruined after a little bit of drifting (okok, sideways for a whole trackday). The tech guy said it's a bad idea in general to replace the diff with something like a mugen diff... first of all the mugen costs a fortune, and more importantly, he said if you make the diff stronger, the next time something else will break instead of the diff. He strongly advised to replace it with an OEM one.

I dunno about the clutch, probably not such an issue like the differential, but i would suggest an OEM one aswell. There's plenty of threads on the S2ki forum from people who replaced their OEM clutch with something else and are having some kind of issues.

Quote from e2mustang :

how about flywheel? if its dual mass like bmw,could be that

Very true. Some of the VAG TDI's have Dual Mass Flywheels, where as some don't. The problem is that with Jamies car, they changed to DMFs during mid production, so you won't actually know if your car has a DMF unless you ring up a dealer or motor factor.

If Jamies car is juddering when completely OFF the clutch, then it could also be the Flywheel. As I have said though, it is hard to tell over the internet, as there are so many factors that could be causing the issue.

@ Jamie. Ring one of your local motor factors, and give them your cars registration number. They should be able to tell you if your car has a DMF. At least then, you could always leave the DMF as a potential issue if a new clutch does not solve the issue you are having.

Quote from jibber :

I have talked to a tech guy from Honda switzerland regarding the differential. I was thinking about getting something stronger since the OEM diff was ruined after a little bit of drifting (okok, sideways for a whole trackday). The tech guy said it's a bad idea in general to replace the diff with something like a mugen diff... first of all the mugen costs a fortune, and more importantly, he said if you make the diff stronger, the next time something else will break instead of the diff. He strongly advised to replace it with an OEM one.

I dunno about the clutch, probably not such an issue like the differential, but i would suggest an OEM one aswell. There's plenty of threads on the S2ki forum from people who replaced their OEM clutch with something else and are having some kind of issues.

Your Friend is right. Upgrading the differential and then leaving other drivetrain parts OEM can cause them to fail. It could range from something simple like the clutch not coping and slipping whenever power is applied, to something more drastic like the drive shafts breaking.

As for the clutch, it all depends on how the car is driven. Even standard cars will eat clutches if you are accelerating hard everywhere and doing wheelspins, so you could argue some people only need an upgraded clutch due to there driving, and not the extra power there car is running. If someone asks me to recommend them an upgraded clutch, I always tell them to avoid paddle clutches and go for Hybrid clutches instead. While paddle clutches are great for strength and taking abuse, they have literally no biting point (Which means they are horrible to use around town.) and they are expensive to replace if they break.

Hybrid clutches are basically the same as ordinary clutches, except they have upgraded materials on the friction lining, and a much stronger pressure plate. This means they are almost the same to use as an OEM one (Smooth engagement etc.) but they are much more resistant to slipping.

It does have a DMF, as nearly all the modern VAG TDI's do and when that goes the whole gear lever shakes. The gear lever in mine stays still and it's almost like the transmission tunnel is shaking the whole car from the POWAH.

If I was to get a new flywheel I'd go the peformance way and get a solid conversion.

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

It does have a DMF, as nearly all the modern VAG TDI's do and when that goes the whole gear lever shakes. The gear lever in mine stays still and it's almost like the transmission tunnel is shaking the whole car from the POWAH.

If I was to get a new flywheel I'd go the peformance way and get a solid conversion.

Just noticed yours is a Mk5. Yes, they have DMFs. I thought yours was a Mk4. The Mk4s changed to DMFs during mid production, which makes it tricky to find out whether they have a DMF or not.

Quote from Nathan_French_14 :

Every single time? I doubt it.

More often than not I take a very aggressive start.

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

shaking the whole car from the POWAH.

I had a VW Polo 1.6, at speeds around idle the WHOLE car was shaking. The gear lever would be rattling all over the place when in neutral at a red light. Obviously caused by the massive power of a 15 year old 1.6l engine

I think I hit something on the way to work today.



Pheasants and bodywork make a lot of mess. Still picking out body parts.

How fast were you going?

I hit a Fox in my work van at 60mph once. It exploded and wedged itself between the radiator and front bumper. It was truly disgusting when I took off the front bumper and found pieces of mashed up Fox staring back at me.

:guilty:

The national speed limit *cough*plus25*cough*.

Was really surprised that all I got was a load of body parts to remove. It sounded like something broke when I hit the bugger but so far I've found nothing that looks even remotely damaged.

Quote from P5YcHoM4N :

I think I hit something on the way to work today.

Does way to work means driving through some kind of farm ? Info from your signature is appalling...

Quote from TypeRacing :

Does way to work means driving through some kind of farm ? Info from your signature is appalling...

I have to drive through a forest because of where I live and I refuse to stop (or slow down if someone is behind me) for anything smaller than a dog. So I collect a lot of small animals.

If I didn't care about my front spoiler so much, I would probably be the same.

I did go around a sharp bend today (Ok, so maybe I was going a bit fast.) and came across a Ford which had no warning signs beforehand. I hit it at around 55mph, and it scared the crap out of me as well sending water everywhere!

And for you yanks, a Ford is one of these...



and not one of these...

The biggest damage so far has been a bent wiper blade and the lower mess on the bumper was popped out. The wiper blade was caused by a group of barn owls hanging around on the road. Most managed to fly to safety, one got collected by the leading edge of the bonnet rolled up and hit the wiper, one got sucked under the van and one almost made it to freedom, but at the time I had a roof rack and it got impaled on that.

The mesh was caused by a big ass pheasant slamming into my bumper, it also exploded in a cloud of feathers and coated a couple of walkers. I laughed, they didn't.

I hit a pheasant when i had my rover, knocked a few of the little slats out of the grille, a small scratch on the bonnet and also committed the delightful act of shitting itself, literally, all over my car as it passed accross the windscreen and over the roof, and the little fecker also managed to take the rover badge off the grille as well, maybe taking the badge was a sign that the pheasant and the car had a mutual fate, death, as i blew a headgasket and then a gearbox in the following few months.

Quote from Bawbag :

I've been in a car doing 15.5 seconds on the 1/4 mile, then a car doing very low 14s, low 14s was a 2.5T soarer with over 300bhp

Tell the guy to learn to drive rofl

over 300hp and only a low 14. FAIL.

Quote from Bawbag :

I don't get it, you say 13.6 is poor by any standard yet you then say that the car isn't standard?

It's got 240bhp, which isn't a great deal, but it's 90bhp more than when standard, not a great deal?

You obviously don't understand what the car is, which isn't there to be zomg amazing 4 sec 1/4 mile, because what use is that when practising things that you will use on customers cars?

This car is just a limit to what can be done, sure it has a few mods but considering just how standard it is, it's crazy to see it under 14 seconds. Which is what customers want, how big do you think their customer base is with cars they use for the road and for fun? Then how many customers do you reckon they have trying to push sub 10 seconds on the 1/4 mile.....

I've been in a car doing 15.5 seconds on the 1/4 mile, then a car doing very low 14s, low 14s was a 2.5T soarer with over 300bhp, to think of a 1.8 golf beating that being "piss poor".

Lol worthy.

An F1 car, with or without traction control does about 10-11 seconds on the 1/4 mile. Even when setup to do so. XJR-13 Did a 14.1, I was there. On the quarter mile every car is an anomaly, but one thing is for sure 13.6 is poor, it doesn't matter what that time beats, people assume because cars are FAST, it means they are automatically QUICK (which I will tell y'all right now, fast does not = quick. They are two different registrations of speed.. but of course a diesel will be more quick when accelerating, it has a bucket full of torque so saying it is quicker than x x petrol car is really pointless. Comparing it to other diesel cars I've seen on the strip, it's very bad.

You make a 13.6 to be an outstanding time, no it isn't. A 90bhp 1.9 Tdi can do quarter in 16seconds. And a 1.9 TDi tuned to about 270bhp can do high 11. So the car you are telling me about. Yes, it's piss poor.