Actually, racing LX6 around blackwood, there is a bump at the end of the last corner (that uphill left and then smooth right). With correct gear ratios, changing from 3rd to 4th on the bump results in some noticeable oversteer, you gotta be pretty quick to catch it

Another rusted old driver here :wave2:

I actually started to play seriously soon after the CTRA started, so although I did have to struggle through some crappy racing in XFG (although I actually enjoy the XFG as a car), I quickly managed to get to more serious CTRA servers and that was where some of the best racing happened (before the removed the LX..).

However, after the breakup of CTRA the drivers you used to race with all went their way, and I figured I'd take a break.

Now, when I come back once in a while, the only place where you can have some good racing is the CR server, since the rest are either demo, cruise or highly-licensed ctra-copycats.

Anyways, good to see all the old faces show up, we still have some powder in our cannons (russian saying :nod

Please bring it back, im sure there will be quite a few folks who would take part! Despite troy/palukka winning the whole thing by default

Quote from xtm 2 :

Maybe you accidentaly stalled your engine? If so, press down the clutch and hit "I" once or twice.

Otherwise, check your Axis indicator to see if the hand-brake is really causing the problem.

And don't make multiple threads for a single problem next time.

Maybe you accidentaly stalled your engine? If so, press down the clutch and hit "I" once or twice.

Otherwise, check your Axis indicator to see if the hand-brake is really causing the problem.

Scirocco still hasn't been finished, you'll know when it comes out, the forums will be hysteric

CTRA did inded close down, the admin sort of ran out of juice - it's a hard work keeping up those servers, at their level of quality. Pity, it used to be THE server to be on..

A slightly unrelated post, but nevertheless:

Can someone, who has a G25, post the accurate distance between the 2 screws, that attach the brake pedal plate to the brake pedal lever. In metric please

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/2107/threepedalsvn8.jpg

Hoping for a quick reply, thanks

Great racing, I feel real rusty though, gotta get some practice with those TBO's.. Anyways, big kudos for getting this up and running!
BTW, what's up with everyone having a photoshopped 3-color avatar?

Last edited by xtm, Wed, 18 Feb 2009 12:34.

that could be a good challenge, somewhat like Topgear. For example, Aston national, FZR, 1% fuel, 1 lap race, first to finish wins. Should be good fun

Last edited by xtm, Tue, 30 Dec 2008 00:38.

In a real racecar on a real track, it's nearly always possible to lock up the tyres (unless its a F1 or IndyCar with full downforce going at max speed). This is because the breakforce in a car is created by the pressure on the break pedal, and not by the distance it travels. Unfortunately, 99% of sim-pedals work by measuring the distance traveled. (For that reason, braking experience in LFS is not very useful for a real car)

So the decision very much depends on: 1) controller setup 2) car/track 3) driving style.

If you have a cheap set of pedals, it can be very hard to precisely modulate the brakes at the treshold of locking. However, Progressive Brake Mod (an impressive name for a piece of rubber which you put in your pedals), makes it a lot easier.

Also, to brake efficeintly in a downforce car, you need to decrease your brakeforce as you slow down. If you set your brakes too low, you are loosing precious time in the 1st part of the deceleration.

Then, on some tracks, where there is a braking section is on uphill, or downhill-going-into-flat, you can gain quite a bit of time by setting your brakes stronger than normal.

Basically, if your setup allows you to, its a good idea to set your brakes slightly above the locking treshold at max brake force.

Last edited by xtm, Sun, 28 Dec 2008 20:47.

Quote from Electrik Kar :

Bit late - happy b'day Scawen

better late, than never

Happy birthday, Scawen!

Quote from AlienT. :

You know you've played too much LFS when you automatically know that there is another thread asking the same question.

ahahah, this made me laugh so hard

Sorry, I'm not sure whether this has been mentioned before, but how can I find out the tyre sizes of LFS cars?

Quote from zeugnimod :

<3 endurance day.

Just had a great 40 lap race on FE Club. We were 4 cars (1 XRT, 1 RB4, 2FXOs) less than 3 seconds divided for the whole first 30 laps. Then, my (RB4) tyres started to get over 100 degree hot...

Brilliant race that was!

Heal a toe 10/10

On the subject, check out this thread, should explain a lot

http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=804765#post804765

Quote from BullHorn :

You're not supposed to blip the throttle when you down shift if you're not using the clutch pedal.

I'd love to see you downshift in a FZR without a blip

On the subject, if you are using left foot to brake and no clutch, just try to blip the throttle a little when you are changing gears. When you press the flappy gear paddle, the clutch is pressed and that's when you should make the blip, to match the engine revs to gearbox revs.

Quote from Mp3 Astra :

For tilt, hold ctrl and arrow keys.
For up and down, hold ctrl and arrow keys.
For FOV, 4 for fast zoom in, 5 for slow zoom in, 4 AND 5 for medium zoom in.
6 for slow zoom out and 7 for fast zoom out, and 6 AND 7 for medium zoom out.

EDIT, you can't move forward and go up at the same time. To get around that, have your camera follow a car so it moves itself. That leaves the arrow keys free for moving up and down.

Legendary, thanks!

On the topic, is there any way to change the value of the sliders in the Shift+U mode (FoV, Height, Roll etc) without actually showing them? Say I want the camera to be moving forwards and then rise up to 10 meters.. Is that possible?

Thanks for all the good comments!

Squid, that was my goal here, no fancy graphics, no over-contrast images, just some good music and a beatiful car in action

Hi all

This is my first attempt at editing, nothing too special, would love to hear some constructive criticism

http://youtube.com/watch?v=JkmHHD22vGM

PS: watch it in high quality

Quote from Bflinty :

Hi there,

Been playing LFS fine for the last week with my G25, however today when I played the steering was VERY sensitive, despite setting the rotation to 720 degrees both in game and on the profiler. It also wobbles loads as a result. Is there a way of stopping this? Anyone else experienced this problem? Thanks for your help, Ben.

Also! Is it possible to re-calibrate the wheel as the centre point on the game is different to the position on the G25? I have seen a calibrating option in-game but it had no result when I tried it!

Had a similar problem with my G25, it would randomly reset itselft to ~100* lock, with no way to change it back, except for reinstalling the drivers. However, downloading and installing the latest drivers from Logitech website solved that.

You might also want to check the "calibration lock" option in LFS settings.

Quote from Gills4life :

maybe you wouldn't crash if you werent only concentrating on stopping the engine from stalling.

So you are saying that you never crash because you don't have to think about keeping the engine running?

Erm, I drive a g25 with full manual+H shifter.. And I somehow manage to keep my engine running through most crashes.. It takes a bit of practice, but after a while you learn to press the clutch before you crash, since most of the time you can anticipate it.

As the old saying goes, "when you spin, both feet in" (clutch+brake).

Then I assume you are suggesting that the "auto-clutch" function should not press the clutch so quickly in the event of a crash?

why would an engine stall after a big contact? If you forgot to press the clutch, then maybe yes, but how otherwise?

Brake mod for g25 from nixim is a great easy solution to this problem.

However, a -1 for me, brake force is adjustable in real cars so it should be in the simulation.

If you feel disadvantaged, why not do the same?..