A clutch has a number of plates that are forced together by springs. In normal operation the friction between then is enough that they do not slip.
When you operate the clutch pedal you pull them apart. This allows you to change the force holding them together and hence hence the level of friction between them and hence "slip" the clutch. Clutch pedal in means the plates are apart.
Now put your palms together and rub them together, they get warmer. Too much heat on the plates glazzes the surface and reduces the friction between the plates so they slip. They also give a great smell as the surface burns which is impossible to mistake once you have smelt it for the first time
Road clutches are designed to be slipped more than a race clutch, a race clutch is designed to grip/bite more but this makes them more prone to heat when they do slip.
You could always upgrade to XP and solve all your problems.
BTW. Dont apply the latest Vista MEII SP1 patches as you run the risk of losing all USB functionality. Its the nice new "feature" added to SP1 to improve the MEII experience for the user
MS were not happy that they had not managed to break all existing hardware compatibility when Vista was released so now they have tried to fix that with SP1.
Easier on shifts. Slip clutch less and if you use auto clutch map a clutch button because there will be time you NEED to put the clutch in to protect it. If you spin out etc.
As Trist has said though... Every thread that where somebody has raised a clutch has always been the same. NOBODY is EVER willing to post a replay to show the problem and ALL say "believe me, I am not the cause of the problem there is a problem but I will not show you what I believe it is. Just truct me"
If you normally wear socks while racing try with shoes on. The G25 pedals are strong enough. I have had my G25 since release and no probs or damage to the pedals yet. Feels more natural using shoes and makes heel toe easier, hurts less.
That said I am thinking about the pedal mod soon as the travel is too long which causes issues. Because of that I dont tend to heel toe as much now. Stronger brakes and shift when the revs are lower to avoid engine braking lockups
If you set to 720 in both CP and LFS and then set wheel comp to 1 in LFS then LFS only responds when you turn in the range the car has.
So if the car had 360deg then even though the wheel is 720 it will only respond to 180 in either direction and FFB will stop you going past the ends. Its not a hard limit so you can force past the limit but I never notice the difference between the hard (cp set) and soft (ffb set) end stops.
Set wheel to 720, lfs to 720 and wheel comp to 1. Wheel turn will be 1:1 in all cars then
Get DX Tweak and adjust the clutch pedal so bite is only over part of the travel otherwise 100% travel is the same as the tiny part of the travel that normally does anything on a real clutch. Stops miss-shifts and makes it feel more natural
I did some tests on a roundabout after it had rained. Road just damp, no standing water.
All I noticed as I stepped into understeer was that the build up of presure you notice as you wind in lock leveled off, no drop. This was with the car balanced on the gas to keep speed level and then me winding in lock beyond the point where understeer occured and back a few times to examine the feeling. Only finger tips used to hold the wheel to give better sense of feeling.
I wish people would just stop spouting that, it is just rubbish.
The G25 has great FF at 720degs and once Scawen gets 900deg going (Held up for animation changes and needs to be incompatible patch, think about it ) then I will use 900deg. I have never really felt like I had to fight my G25 at any lock settings. Can't understand why people say it TBH.
In the end the problem is that too many people think of and treat LFS like normal race games out on the market instead of enjoying the complexity a sim brings to the table.
They want to pretend that they are a great and fast race driver but do not actually want to deal with what that actually entails. They do not want to deal with mechanical sympathy and balance car abuse with speed they just want to pretend they can drive fast.
Why should they have to drive a 50 lap race differently from a 3 lap sprint?
Why should they have ease off and nurse cooked tyres for a lap or so to let them cool a little?
Why do they have to worry about loss of grip when they put a tyre on the the mud?
Why does the clutch cook when I slip it all the time? I have driven a car around town for 20 years and never cooked a clutch and these are race cars so what gives?
Same happened when tyre heat cam in. Before then most people pushed far to far and too hard because they could and then all of a sudden they had to deal with the reality that tyres cook up and lose grip.
In the end racing is not about who is the fastest round the track, that is qualification and hot lapping. Racing is about keeping the car in one piece for the duration of the race while pushing as hard as you can.
This sort of thread will get more common as the sim improves and drivers have to worry about many different types of damage. Even the implementation of the car body rubbing on tyres will make many setups worthless unless they restrict lock or raise the ride height a little.
The inferno setups are NOT race setups, more hotlap. Many use locked diffs etc and are there to exploit the physics to get the BEST laptime possible. Most of them are used for WR runs etc.
Let me try one more attempt. You are really saying this at the moment.
"There is a problem. I am not going to give you any information about what the problem is. Its just wrong OK, change it."
If you post a replay and setup if can be looked at to see what the problem you have found is.
Trouble is that since Patch Y there have been many say "Its wrong" but when asked for more info on the issue they believe they have found nobody will post a replay and setup to show what the problem it.
This is why the clutch is a short fuse topic. Nobody that shouts about problems is EVER willing to show what the problem is. The replay and setup allow looking at what is going on and what is the cause of the heat. It could be an issue but unless you show what the problem is it can't be fixed.