No SSD and installed Windows in 7 minutes?

I have my doubts...

Quote from Seb66 :

Playing around with my GoPro camera still, duct taped it onto my roof inside the car haha. Was gonna post this in the "show us your drive to work" thread or whateva it was... but couldn't be bothered digging it up. Sorry the angle is a little bit shitty

www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmB7F5KfoBg

Thats surprisingly good footage considering it's just taped to the headlining!

Been meaning to try something similar for a while (a recording of the car rather than the journey).

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

remind me to never buy a car from you

I have to agree... maybe it's just the angle / microphone, but it does sound like your ragging the shit out of it for a lot of the journey.

Put my winters on today

Before...


After...


(inb4 haters gonna hate)

Quote from Bose321 :

Not sure what you mean with that as it's bigger then most other wheels and a copy from a real wheel.

I don't think the diameter of the 911 wheel is anywhere near the size you'd find on a Porsche.

Quote from Bose321 :

Care to elaborate? Seems like a useless post made by a person with no grasp at knowing what a good wheel is.

The Fanatec 911 didn't actually feel like a real wheel at all (i.e. it was just as chunky as a proper wheel... but around half the size).

I <3 lights... care to share?

How many hundred thousand miles?

I'd probably do it...

Related:

http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=864811

(the results were much the same)

I made a thread like this a few years back, but I cannot find it now

Quote from Migz :

Alt ground? You mean engine block to ground?

Many different names for the same things - some cars have a cable running from the alt's negative to the chassis, some bolt to the engine which is wired to the chassis, some bolt to engine or chassis directly etc.

Quote from Migz :

Well if I had some spare cable I'd give it a go, you don't lose anything but then you'll know wether it really does work or not.

You end up with a load of gash looking cables under your bonnet, a wasted afternoon and (probably negligible) bit of extra weight.

Quote from Migz :

I remember I read something about this a few years ago, It said it does work because with the better grounding it gives a stronger spark to ignite your fuel. But I don't know if it was b/s or not

I can understand upgrading cabling if you upgrade the load - but I can't see OEM's intentionally using cabling far too small for the standard car - plus the normally quoted "benefits" are about sensors "working better", which I can't really see either...

Quote from Migz :

Never heard/seen of anyone upgrading just the battery earths for a large sound system, normally its the Big 3, which is in 0 Gauge and not 8 Gauge.

"The big three" consists of the alt's ground, and the batteries ground (and also the alt postive)

Quote from Migz :

You can get 8 Gauge wire for about £15, so it would probably be worth doing just to see if this multiple ground thing actually works. If it works then happy days, if it doesn't then you only lose out on £15.

I've got loads of 4AWG (and even 2x5M 0AWG runs) spare... but I just can't see a point using it.

Just seen a "grounding kit" mentioned on the internet, from some Googling it appears to be people upgrading / adding grounds.... http://forums.evolutionm.net/0 ... grounding-kit-review.html

I can understand that if you put more load on the vehicles electrical system, you might want to upgrade the batteries earth (i.e. a large ICE install)... but all the "reviews" I can find are all of virtually standard cars, and all seem to claim that somehow it makes the car more "responsive" or "shift better"...

The crazy thing is, these things sell for ~£60? For a few metres of 8+ AWG wire?

I just don't get it.

From another forum...



I want this here

Good Halogen bulbs = Good.

Cheap Xenon bulbs (filament ones, not HID's) = terrible.

Xenon gas makes them burn brighter (by a bit), but means they burn out a lot lot quicker - I had a set go in less than 6 months

Ewwww... "HID" halogen-style bulbs ftl.

Quote from tristancliffe :

I think that's very rare, although I'd welcome examples. Usually a change of cam profile, cam timing or other detail is used as well. Purposefully mapping an engine badly won't do good things for the carbon taxation (whereby each manufacturer has to keep its average CO2 per mile below a certain figure across the whole range).

An example:

MG ZT / Rover 75.

Engine was designed to produce ~115 HP, with an engine which originally produced ~170 HP (with a different turbo), as that was the original performance they were aiming for (i.e. well below any BMW)

When BMW quit, MGR did some testing and found they could easily get is to produce ~135 HP, with nothing more than an ECU map. They sold the two models concurrently for a while, while offering the "XPower Upgrade" to existing owners, and then only sold the 135 model.

BMW / VAG do similar with their diesels afaik.

EDIT - It wasn't originally mapped "badly", they simply weren't after a lot of power. Tax rates were unaffected, although tbh there wasn't such a focus on this / company car bands 10 years ago. MPG was also largely unaffected, as 115 HP was a little low for such a lardy car, so having a little more power didn't make much of a difference.

The thing I hate most about the G25 is the wheel itself - so small.

I'd love to use a "proper" wheel on it... the last thing I'd want is that wheel in my car!

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

I raced a 2.8 Z4 and had it to 70mph.

LOL

I'm sorry, but he wasn't trying.

Quote from tristancliffe :

More power, more torque AND more efficiency, whilst retaining drivability? You'd wonder why they didn't do that to begin with

I'm not saying this applies here, but remember many manufacturers use the same engine on many cars, making a cold, "warm" and "hot" variant different with nothing but the map

Quote from PMD9409 :

Well unless all the UK trackday sites are wrong, you have to follow a pace car for 3 laps. So you are still being instructed, just not directly with a person next to you.

Not something I've ever heard of before (although I've not done one before I must admit).

They offer tuition, but it's not mandatory. But if you treat it as a race / drive like a knob, you probably will be black flagged.

EDIT - are you looking at a "proper" trackday, or one of the driving experiences? The latter will mandate an instructor because it's their car, not yours (and often it's not even theirs, it's rented from the owner).

Quote from Klutch :

gf bought me a suicidegirl subscription for our anniversary today.

I have to say, that's a bit weird.

(as a gift for your anniversary, I mean)

If you mean the "U" shaped one, yes.

It's terrible.

I wouldn't think so - it would depend on the gearing, powerband of the engine, cam profile, and if the resistance is static or dynamic - air resistance increases exponentially wrt speed whereas I'd guess tyres rolling resistance would increase linearly.

EDIT - 51 MPG? From a 1.3 MK2 Golf?! Doesn't sound quite right to me...

Not my hardware to mess with.

Quote from mr_x :

Check the xbox settings it should give you network information in there including MAC address

On the HomeHub *somtimes* it's by MAC, other times by the PC's name (i.e. "JakgPC") and other times its a seemingly random number.

Plugged into the HomeHub directly, works fine... will just re-route the cables I think.

Quote from theirishnoob :

you could just call you're provider to switch it to open, should that not work, just cable the console rather then using wifi, if not... a cheap linksys/netgear router will fix it for you ( almost everyone has a spare one not in use ( i know nobody with the homehub as its exclusively UK and thank god for that

How is the provider going to help?

How is not using WiFi going to help (i'm not on WiFi, but even if I was i'd still be on the same network)?

A new router isn't really an option - it's not "my" network

Quote from mr_x :

Did you do DMZ on the other router too? Or is that firewall off anyway?

Firewall off on both routers, DMZ on the TP Link to the Xbox, but the DMZ on the BT HomeHub doesn't work (it ONLY gives you an incomprehensible list of devices, you can't specify an IP - it's a mix of random names and MAC addresses and I can't find either device on the list).