Not my network - will talk to my Dad about why it's like that tonight.
Tried the DMZ on the HomeHub with no joy.
Never had a problem with the HomeHub before... but then I've never needed to forward ports to play an online game before...
Yes - 192.168.100.101-200 & 192.168.1.1-254 respectively.
Yes - I tried having the TP Link forward to the Xbox IP, and the HomeHub forward both to the Xbox IP & the TP Link ID, with no luck.
I know that a switch wont affect things, but the routers will - the first router (BT HomeHub) is working as a DHCP server (on one subnet), and has one connection, the next router (TP Link) which is working as a cable router with a working DHCP server on a another subnet.
I.E. the TP Link has the BT HomeHub as it's gateway, and the BT HomeHub has it's gateway as an internet IP.
Xbox 360 NAT Problems
Just bought a 360 & Live and looking to go online, but it doesn't seem to work and complains about my NAT type being "Strict".
I've tried the normal guides, but I've hit a bit of a stumbling block...
For reasons I don't know, we have several routers in the house...
Connected to the phoneline is a BT HomeHub 2. This is then connected to a TP Link TL-WR1043ND router, which then goes through a series of hubs, switches & wires to the Xbox.
The TP Link router is running a DHCP server and is handling all the IP's for everything on the network, and then the TP Link is simply a client of the HomeHub.
I've tried forwarding the ports, but obviously it's a bit of a headache trying to work out on which should I forward / to what.
Why it's setup like this I have no idea...
Any ideas?
I've tried the normal guides, but I've hit a bit of a stumbling block...
For reasons I don't know, we have several routers in the house...
Connected to the phoneline is a BT HomeHub 2. This is then connected to a TP Link TL-WR1043ND router, which then goes through a series of hubs, switches & wires to the Xbox.
The TP Link router is running a DHCP server and is handling all the IP's for everything on the network, and then the TP Link is simply a client of the HomeHub.
I've tried forwarding the ports, but obviously it's a bit of a headache trying to work out on which should I forward / to what.
Why it's setup like this I have no idea...
Any ideas?
I bought an Xbox just for this game.
Feel free to add me if you want an easy win, my gamer tag is "Jakg666"
Feel free to add me if you want an easy win, my gamer tag is "Jakg666"
You painted them yourself? How hard was it?
I'm a bit of a spastic with paint, but my winter wheels look like shit... would love to know if a DIY finish is going to hold up.
You have dual voice coil subs - it's got two separate +/- to get the impedance you want.
I would imagine pretty much any co-ax speaker would have a crossover built in - but I would always go for a proper component set if possible.
Yes BUT it's stupidly expensive!
You can get an 8AWG kit on eBay for ~£12, but I'd go for 4AWG - it's only a little more (~£18), but 2.5x the current capacity... trust me, you'll apreciate it when you decide to go for another or larger amp and DONT have to rip it all out.
Thats a "how long is a peice of string" question, that only you can answer.... I've used ~20m for my door speakers, but then I've run dedicated wires from all the doors into the boot. It depends what your wiring up, from where to where, the route etc. But at the end of the day - cable is cheap. You will always find a use for the spare stuff.
I notice you've also not bought any power wire / accessories...
Obviously you have different brands in the US, but looking through Crutchfield...
Alpine - ok,
Boston - older speakers were good, none of their new stuff is brilliant,
Diamond - good,
Focal - very good (although expensive),
Infinity - ok(ish),
JBL - good (...if your on a budget),
JL Audio - good (but quite expensive),
JVC - avoid,
Kenwood - ok(ish...),
Kicker - good
MTX - good,
Pioneer - nothing special,
Rockford Fosgate - good,
Sony - dont bother.
Avoid the Chinese stuff like the plague.
A ported box gives more output, but not at all volumes - it will be tuned to a specific frequency, and anything above or below that isn't going to be that loud.
I built a ported box, and it kicks like nothing else on the lows... but as you start to bring the frequency up, you start to lose alot of the output, and so you don't really get any bass.
Plus, a ported box is harder to build, has to be much closer to the right size to sound good, plus is always going to be larger etc... my next box will be sealed for sure.
At the end of the day it's personal preference - but you cant just slap a speaker in any old box and expect it to sound good.
This is probably the last place I would ask for car-audio advice tbh...
Try somewhere like here - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/
The amp is rubbish - Sony's amps havent been any good for the last 10 years, and $200 for 600w RMS is rubbish.
Your speaker wire looks pretty expensive - I can get 10m (~33 feet) of 2.5mm² (13 AWG) speaker cable on eBay for around £5 (~$8).
DO NOT BUY A PREMADE PORTED BOX! I cannot stress this enough! A ported box has to be designed specifically for the sub your using - i.e. the main chamber must be the right size, and the port must be the right size (volume / length) for the particular sub you want to use, or it will sound rubbish. I would start with a sealed box, as it's the easiest to make (so if you buy a premade one chances are it's going to be ok), and if it's not quite the right size it won't sound shit. Also, a lot of people don't like the sound of ported boxes (me included - I spent several days making the perfect box only to find out I hate the things!)
The subs look... ok, but nothing to write home about. Pioneers speakers are nothing special... for value bass, JBL GT5's get good reviews and can take a load of power.
No chance you could get some decent component speakers?
FWIW - you DONT need to match up the amp / speaker power perfectly. If your amp doesn't deliver enough power, when you drive it too hard you'll get distortion and then clipping which will kill the speakers. If you've got too much power, obviously you'll blow the speakers if you turn it up too much, but as long as your careful you'll get loads of headroom which means loads of clean power when your giving the speakers enough power. Most of my amps deliver 2x the rated power of the speakers.
On a related note, I took my bumper off the other day and found this:
It's around the top of the intercooler, and only on the passenger side... could my intercooler be shot?
Depends what sort of snow were talking about - are we talking ice (anything with 4wd and good tyres should be ok), or are we talking about drifts (ground clearance required)
So? Better noise, more power, better looks, whats not to like?
Care to share any more details?
Would love an excuse to get a new exhaust, especially for a discount price!
Would love an excuse to get a new exhaust, especially for a discount price!
Interesting... will have to keep an eye out next time I see a pressed plate.
Traffic cops aren't always 100% knowledgeable on the law... there are many things that are "technically" illegal but that nobody will ever mention.
For new car prices, don't look at the UK, look at the US!
Second hand prices the UK is quite good though...
Second hand prices the UK is quite good though...
Like I said... all of the ones *i've seen* are matt pressed plates - they do not reflect like a "proper" UK plate at night.
I'm sure that more reflective ones exist... but as I've never seen one yet, I think most pressed plated are illegal.
I'm sure that more reflective ones exist... but as I've never seen one yet, I think most pressed plated are illegal.
Depressingly, no...
My Dad often works nights (he's an engineer in a 24 hour factory) with nothing to do so doesn't mind doing little electrical things for me.
Don't have any soldering irons at home either.
I've no idea why I didnt think of this before... didn't think there'd be a seperate data / power cable.
Opened all the cables up and will get my Dad to solder it up tonight. If it works, I've found an adaptor that can go from data / charging only with a switch, so that would sort my audio worries as well.
Not something I've ever seen - all the ones round here (pressed plates maker down the road) are all MAT.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG