Double post: There is no enjoyment to be had racing a Mazda Mx5 around the Tsukuba circuit for 4 hours. Maybe a Ford GT, Ferrari or some LMP cars around some fast flowing track like Circuit De La Sarthe or Trail Mountain.
Cool, I wonder if the Fiat 500 can be tuned up likewise
I took my Ford SVT truck to an online drift lobby - that was funny
It feels truck'ish off course, but 509hp and no weight at back will kick the back end out no worries, and it feels quite stable due to the long wheel base and weight
N3 - so around Comfort Softs I think. Assuming they haven't changed the tyre specs, but they may have since the tyres react different now, more progressive
BTW I bought an old Beetle, assuming I could tune it up well, and it won't crack 100hp
Well there is nothing wrong with the B-Spec on Daytona after all....
I put my full hot level 11 driver, with a blue upward arrow, on that Truck race on Daytona again, and he led from start to finish, and set the fastest lap of the race without any draft help. Finished with a 7+ sec lead.
The main thing was - he barely braked at all, and carried a 248-249kph speed through the slowest turn
So it's down to driver level and the corner rating I suspect when it comes to issues with Daytona people are reporting. I know my lower level driver who previously raced on Daytona, would brake at level 3-5
I put that same driver, now at level 7 in the same race, he gets into the lead but brakes back down to 215kph at the slowest... and gets caught up in traffic etc
I normally have panning mode 2 on, and sometimes 3 - press Triangle to access this option. This keeps the car sharp and in focus. Basicly the camera moves at the same speed as the car.
Set the shutter speed to a higher value if I want a blurred look to the wheels and the landscape to impart a sense of motion. The bottom 3 values are what I mostly use for this.
I set the F number depending on how in focus I want the background to look. Larger F number is more in focus and vice versa. Usually between 2.8 and 8. The thing is, if you use a really small F number, it tends to make the cars look more toy'ish. Too high a value and the pic will lack depth.
Then tweak the EV to get the right level of brightness. I usually increase it a bit. Seems to enhance realism.
Other than that, I sorta squint my eyes to make sure the composition of the photo looks balanced in the preview screen, otherwise I move the view around until it does.
There is no real science to it, I just go by feel