Quote from Ricksta :

I fixed it now, i though general HP was the cars health so i never touched it. now it goes faaast

..... you need to stop playing :wow:

:bananadea

Nice update... but im getting the same error as stated above.....

I can use the program once, but as soon as i try to go back to the program i get a windows error forcing me to close the program.



Edit:

just got error....

"Error inside 'writecarmemory', please report this in forums"

Last edited by theycallmeebryan, Wed, 16 Jan 2008 07:00.

When im not playing LFS, i usually find myself playing RBR. Its such an intense and (as close as it gets) realistic rally game. I love turning up the speakers real loud.... everything is nuts.... between the car sounds, the co-driver flapping off pace notes, and all the wind noise and gravel noise.... its just a rush.

I actually made a track setup on the dragstrip that accurately measures 60' time and 1/8th mile time. I have a trigger directly at the start line that you would roll up to and launch from (getting as close as possible without starting the timer).

Ive been using it for awhile with LFS tweak.

Use it in practice mode.

The only real way to find out is to do a bunch of testing... Its not just the car or the track, its also the driver and his (her) driving habits, suspension settings, toe settings, etc etc.

I like to find a good balance in my tires. Generally, you always want the insides of the tires to be the warmest, followed by the middle, follow by the outside. You dont want any more than a 10-15*C difference from inside to outside.

As for tire pressure, it depends on the race. Longer races i generally use high tire pressures. Shorter races i use lower tire pressures. With that being said, it may vary as per your car setup. The general rule here is that you want the inside to be warmer than the middle, and the middle warmer than the outside. Too much tire pressure and the middle of your tires will heat up faster, too little and the outsides will heat up faster.

All this being said, the best thing to do is a lot of testing to find what works for you. There is no set formula.

drive away a lot of fanbase huh..... some fans you are.... never contributing to the development of this game....

The demo has always been TOO GOOD. There has been much talk about this very fact the last couple of months... what other comparable racing sim gives you so much for FREE?

Be happy that you have what you have... it could be MUCH MUCH WORSE.

holy crap.... Patch Y certainly did one thing.... let all the little noobs out of the bag....

WELCOME TO REALISM NOOBS

Last edited by XCNuse, Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:16. Reason : censoring

Quote from RevengeR :

Still, revs itself doesnt mean boost really builds up. Like you have the car in neutral, then rev it to lets say 4000 rpm, then load that engine (to be simple, be in gear and just step on the brake). In neutral, since its not under load, less A/F needed to get the revs, which equals in less exhaust. Then in the next case, when loading the engine, it does more work to maintain the same rev, which means more A/F, more exhaust -> the turbo effectively builds up boost.
Its not just about how fast it builds up the boost (because at 4000rpm in neutral you will not have boost effectively), but how much boost it builds up if it does any.

Like I have a supercharged 3.8 in my car. Since its a 'forced-fed' engine, we can talk about boost. During daily driving, I can simply drive without making any boost. No boost either when revving it in neutral. Boost only builds up when the engine is loaded.

Im not saying you are wrong, I just say revs itself doesnt mean theres built up boost in the cylinder head. Also, cruisin at 60 km/h at 3000 revs wont make boost building up, not even slowly. Load is what you ned when you want to build up boost.

PS: ah, sorry, seems like I totally misread the facts, and wanted to prove the opposite. You have to excuse me, its 5:15 am

Are you fricken kidding me? Ofcourse i know RPM =/= boost.... :doh:

The first thing you are trying to "prove me wrong" with is completely stupid. You are comparing building boost without load and building boost with load.

Quote :

In neutral, since its not under load, less A/F needed to get the revs, which equals in less exhaust. Then in the next case, when loading the engine, it does more work to maintain the same rev, which means more A/F, more exhaust -> the turbo effectively builds up boost.

In neutral, less A/F ratio needed to get the desired RPM??... uh no. I hope you meant throttle position. If not, you need to stop posting in these forums before you turn into a complete moron. Here ill fix it for you.

"In nuetral (engine has no load), less throttle is needed to reach a desired RPM, which means less fuel needs to be burnt, and less exhaust will be produced....
...Under load, more TPS is needed to reach a desired RPM, which means more fuel needs to be burnt, and more exhaust will be produced. **** RESPECTIVELY ****"

In order for your engine to see boost, your throttle butterfly needs to open up to allow air to enter. In most turbo cars (except insanely undersized turbos for the motor, which is the case with most large diesel trucks), you can essentially go to redline (definetly in nuetral, possible under loaded conditions) without any positive manifold pressure. If this wasnt the case, then your car would never be able to see redline in N/A form, and you would have a serious problem, or that engine is completely inefficient.

Sorry to tell you, but your idea about your supercharged 3.8 is wrong. You dont see boost in a supercharged application when cruising because your TPS isnt opened very much and the air that the supercharger is flowing is being blocked by the throttle butterfly. Where does it go? Well, a tiny bit is getting by the butterfly, a tiny bit is going through the IAC, and the rest will go out the bypass/blowoff valve if your setup uses one... if not, it escape back passed the compressor fins and you most likely experience compressor surge. Building boost in a supercharged car has nothing to do with load because your supercharger's RPM is directly proportional to the engine's RPM... it has everything to do with throttle position.

Do yourself a favor and stop trying to copy off a stupid wikipedia website or some other damn website that doesnt know what they are talking about. Go out and try to learn this stuff before you try to act like you actually know the stuff. You just make a complete fool of yourself.

Can peoples become any more stupider?

I am going to introduce some more test variables into the experiment. Alot of discussion that has been going on in this thread has been bugging me and i would like to open up the experiment a bit more.

Things I am going to consider.

1. Everyday City driving conditions using SC Long Reverse as a test track. Accelerating normally (I would say accelerating no more than 0.2g's [or no more than 40%TPS] is a normal, easy acceleration in daily driving situations [i will use whichever is lower]). This will include making periodic stops (to simulate stop signs and traffic lights). I will make these stops and accelerations uniform for each car in order to eliminate any differences.

2. Spirited city driving conditions using SC Long Reverse as a test track. Accelerating with no more than .5g's or 75% tps, whichever is smaller.

3. 1 and 2 should be done shifting at pre-designated rpm points.... lets say 3000rpm as a good general normal rpm shift point.

4. 1 and 2 should also be done with realistic situations in mind. For average city driving, you'll be shifting at a lower rpm. In spirited driving, you will shift at a higher rpm. Lets set the low at 2000rpm, and the high at 4000rpm.

5. I would like to introduce weight into the cars as a variable to the experiment. I will do the highway conditions experiment over again, but this time with a full fuel tank and 1 passenger in the car. I will also to the city driving experiment also with full fuel and 1 passenger.

6. Tire pressure. Does lower tire pressures effect gas miledge in LFS? Does higher tire pressure effect fuel economy in LFS? I would just do two different tests in the highway scenario to show this. The two tests will involve (a) the lowest possible tire pressure for that car and (b) the highest possible tire pressure for that car. I could even go into testing out different types of tires. Do dirt tires allow the car to get better fuel economy? However, i think thats looking too much into it.

:doh:

Quote from Shotglass :

well yes obviously
but what about the drop in efficiency from lowering the compression which should show its ugly rear end in low boost conditions ?

I said that assuming nothing else was done to the car. I said CAUTION: this is a generalization...

Maybe i really need to lay it out on a silver platter for you people...

Of course changing the compression of the pistons will change things... it will change alot of things.

...dont "obviously" me :doh:

LOL this thread has caused a lot of stupid posts from people....

I could talk all day about the physics of gasoline motors.

Let me put it this way. Lets forget about the results from my experiment for a minute.

Caution: THIS IS A GENERALITY... ok keep reading

Take a stock Naturally aspirated gasoline engine, lets say a 3.0L v6 that gets about 25miles to the gallon on the highway. If you put a turbocharger on the car (including all the nessesary hardware... Intercooler with piping, and assuming you use stock exhaust manifolds, and the motor is kept stock) the car will get better highway MPG (cruising) almost indefinetly. Why? To make a very long and complicated explaination very short, you are increasing the volumetric efficiency of the engine by introducing a turbocharger or supercharger. Theres just no other simple way to explain it.

OK. Before you kiddies have an ADD attack... keep reading (and again, im being very basic here).

Q: But a turbo doesnt spin very much if you are not in boost.
A: You're dumb. A turbo CONSTANTLY spins as soon as you start your engine. What happens when a turbo spins? It increases the flow of air into your engine. And what does that mean? Better volumetric efficiency. Why do you think theres a saying "the power is in the cylinder heads"?. Because its true. Its how WELL your car flows air that influences EVERYTHING. I would have to start talking about the physics of fluids and the physics of combustion for alot of you to understand, and i just dont want to do that.

Blah blah i really dont want to get in to this too much, its a beaten dead horse conversation thats been talked about OVER and OVER and OVER again.

There are so many ways to increase the fuel efficiency of a gasoline engine. You guys want to read about some interesting techniques? Check out these following links.

http://www.somender-singh.com/
http://www.popsci.com/popsci/f ... 1000004eecbccdrcrd/3.html Popular science article.
http://www.mpgresearch.com/index.php

Oh, BTW.... dougie... dont rely on wikipedia anymore. That crap you copied and pasted from wikipedia isnt even totally accurate. The kid that made that wiki is no more knowledgeable that alot of the people on this forum.

Wheel4hummer is correct. More load=more exhaust. In a turbo application, you want to load the car in order to build boost more quickly.

However, more rpm with load= more exhaust overall. So say you are seeing 50% load at 1000rpms, then compare it to 50% load at 3000rpms.... More exhaust will be created at the 3000rpm mark. And you can test it yourself. Another way to look at it... at 3000rpms, apply 50% tps and see how fast the turbo spools. Then do the same thing but apply 100%TPS. vwahla.

Why do you think they offer higher stall torque converters for automatic cars? Not just because you can launch the car closer to or at its peak torque range. In turbo cars it helps because you are able to load the car while increasing the rpm at the same time, enabling you to build boost a lot easier. Theres also a reason why companies that sell turbos also give a specific torque converter specification for that size turbo. The larger the turbo, the larger the converter you are going to need to spool that turbo efficiently and effectively.

My fingers hurt...

Last edited by theycallmeebryan, Sun, 23 Sep 2007 21:52.

Quote from Theafro :

The figures seem pretty high, compared to real world figures. If you were to knock 10-20% off they would be about right. I guess LFS is more economical than real life. But i suppose you've got to do what you can to reduce your carbon footprint!

FZ5 getting 16mpg in highway conditions?? what a fuel hungry 6cyl!!!

Quote from Gil07 :

Well, you didn't put it it l/100km, as is standard over here

Fixed

Last edited by theycallmeebryan, Wed, 19 Sep 2007 21:29.

Ever wonder what kind of gas miledge your LFS Street car is getting? Ever care about how much pollution you are adding to LFS world? Maybe this experiment will help you select your car wisely.



Tests were done utilizing the following control groups:
1. Patch X
2. Test track= KY Oval
3. 5% starting fuel
4. 1 lap
5. No wind
6. Each car using "Easy Race" setup
7. No passengers
8. Drove in the 3rd lane on the Oval (the lane you start in).
9. All cars started in 1st gear, auto clutch enabled, no clutch dumping



The following two tests were done:
1. 40% Throttle position acceleration up to 60mph, shifting at 6000rpms in each car. When 60mph was reached, car was put in top gear and consistent throttle was applied to maintain 60mph (+/- 1mph) for 1 full lap.

2. 100% throttle position for 1 full lap, shifting when the red light told me to.



The Results:
And since i also care about the rest of the world who do not use standard forms of measurement, i made a graph for you metric lovers!

Standard


Metric



I sure hope this brings up some discussion. These numbers just dont seem right at all (realistically). I promise you all these calculations and all these numbers are PERFECTLY ACCURATE. If i need to go more in depth with the experiment to prove my point, i certainly will. (IE, more data points at different scenarios)

Last edited by theycallmeebryan, Wed, 19 Sep 2007 21:29.

+1

There is a lot of room for improvement with the current pit system.

You should also have the ability to prevent your "pit crew" from fixing your damage. Body damage currently does nothing but waste your time in the pits.

Also, currently all of your pit options are fulfilled as soon as you enter the pit box... except for fuel. So if you enter the pit box for 1 second and have a buddy bump you out from behind, you'll have everything fixed in 1 second....

Will there be support for MPH instead of KPH?

Quote from PLAYLIFE :

I always thought that "racing to the line" when there is an obvious danger on the track... was well... border-line moronic.

Well you have to realize that nascar was founded by a bunch of beer guzzling hillbillies.... it will all make sense

Quote from mixer13134 :

Dunno if this has been reported. But about the false start system.

I tried this with AI. Basically when I do a false start, I pit, then wait until the green light goes on and then unpit. Basically, not on all tracks, but you can gain first position by doing this. I tried this on fern bay gold rev, and it's possible.

I don't know if you understood me.

Yeh, but online you cant do this. There is a counter of 10 seconds that disallows you to start from the pits at the same time the race starts. This used to be a problem, people would pit before the race started, and pit out once it did. Some tracks you would be able to lead into T1 by doing this.

The false start system needs to be refined for sure. If there is lag, a driver that jumps behind you can drive all the way into the person infront of them, causing that person to also false start.

The false start system needs to be a client side thing, and not a server based. This way, lag will not effect you getting penalized for jumping the start.

I also feel that if you get a false start and are sent to pits, there should be an automatic 20 second timer on the join button. That way, you cant pit and join back in the race in order to releive your penalty.

Hope i didnt cause too much clutter, shawen

First thing i saw when i fired up W17 using pitspotter....

Quote :

InSim : first byte in packet does not match size

Im assuming this is due to the changes made in the Insim system??

My CP settings: 65/65/65/65 and 50% in LFS....

I just tried 100/0/0/0 like most of you are using, and its WAY too... loose and well, "springy into countersteer" for me...

Also, i always have my wheel set on 270*, what would be the advantage to increasing that to 540?

Well i came home today after wearing flip-flops all day, and went on to go race some lfs with bare feet, not even thinking about it. As soon as i touched the pedals with my bare feet, i looked down and went ... for some odd reason, i NEED to wear socks and only socks when i race with the wheel and pedals.

So i was just wondering, whats your preference?

LFS Tweak 1/4 mile contest
Bringing street monsters to the strip!

Its easy to throw on s1's with 4000hp etc..... thought we should try something new.

3 classes: RWD,AWD,FWD

Rules for each class:
1. Patch-V ONLY!
2. Road Tires ONLY (Normals, Supers)
3. No limitations with the S2 Patch V tweak program
4. Fuel is your preference
5. FWD class uses XFG
6. AWD class uses XRG
7. RWD class uses XRT


2 screenshots are needed:
(1) Screenshot in chase view with the F12 box displayed
(2) Screenshot in chase view with the F9 box displayed


Have fun!!!


FWD (XFG) Leaderboard
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.


AWD (XRG) Leaderboard
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.


RWD (XRT) leaderboard
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Quote from Blowtus :

Prior to positive boost, manifold pressure is still substantially higher in turbocharged cars than NA. The turbo is still pushing air around, it just hasn't reached the arbitrary line in the sand you're drawing, of positive boost.

I know that, im talking about a VERY noticeable difference, as if the engine actually is seeing a significant amount of boost even though it isnt....