Quote from Bawbag :

That's like saying all school teachers are bad because one of them called me fat.

Tell daddy who it was, we'll take care of it.

Well, I did try. I agree that spring/arb adjustments of 0.x are quite silly, and I agree that road cars should have a bit less options available on them. But you see, Boris has a reputation/past - he's is as stuborn as a mule and has been banned (or about to be) from numerous serbian forums because he will start an argument and only keep going on and on about his point of view, and after a while, people who have tried to be sensible and show him the error of some of his ways just realise it's a waste of time and energy, but he still doesn't let it go. Ofcourse, he really has no pull over LFS devs and I doubt they will remove setup options just because someone makes an invalid argument like his was, but still - we are on the verge of something kinda new, and for the people who've gone through the trouble of learning more about sets and how to utilise them as an advantage it would be kind of silly to take it all away just so it's easier for the "rest". But hey, I really couldn't care less about XFG/LX/whaeva shitbox car, just dont touch the race cars (we could do with a bit finer steps in toe adjustments even :P).

Last edited by scipy, Wed 4 Feb 2009, 12:15.

When I saw this topic I did expect some stupidity, but this is just too much, you are even leaping over Bawbag's tard bar with such ease that it makes him look like a headless chicken. My first instinct was to tell u to go die in a fire because ur an incompetent whiney bitch, and I did that, but I deleted the post right away because I knew one of the mods would just do it for me, so here comes the sensible response.

Your basic argument is this: "I can't do it, so take the option away for everybody so they can be just as slow as me." Why don't u just go live with the amish? I bet there's no camber adjustments on wooden wheels, so there will be nothing to confuse you.

There is even a Cyber Setup Guide translated into _YOUR_ language, and if you would've just bothered to read it ONCE, you would know 95 % of the things you need to know to set up any car (in LFS). But no, maybe you glanced at it once, tried a few clicks here and there, and the result wasn't an earth-shattering change in speed and feel - so you gave up. GG there.

As far as real life cars go, because of the fact that a very high percentage of the population consists of people like you (i.e. incompetent retards) - all the production cars are set up to respond to ANY circumstance with massive understeer, they are also as soft as a clubbed baby seal. That just won't cut it in racing. LFS has a precise enough physics model to simulate a real car better than almost any sim out there, and the setup options all do what they're supposed to.

Another thing, you suck. That's not an insult, it's just a fact, because most people suck and they will take it upon themselves to judge setups. News flash, 80 % of the time the problem isn't the setup, it's the driver. There's a sickening amount of people out there who will blame a perfectly good setup for their lack of driving technique. They don't know how to turn, how to brake, how to combine the two etc.

Yet another thing, since your last race information is from May '08 we can conclude you are nowhere near active enough to judge anything related to driving nowhere near the limit. So just save us all a lot of time and effort, stick to a RACE_S setup and bind the following text to one of your F keys: "I am better than all of you cheaters who have setups, take RACE_S and I'll beat you." Then you can continue to live happily ever after in the wonderful land where you're right and everyone else is wrong.

People, I wanna avoid trying to explain everything because it's been done before. Everyone should just get VHPA (Bob's creation) because it already contains all the damping graphs (and cornering phases) that are explained here:

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/shocktune1.html

So, read that, then open VHPA and adjust dampers there.

P.S. Phases are called slightly differently in VHPA than in the article, but they are the same.

SERIOUSLY?! NO. Where am I gonna display my "<3 ducky" messages?!?! You people.. trying to take away everything that's precious to me. Stop et.

Quote from Victor :

Live for Religion

hahhahahahha

something wierd is going on.. LFS is just saying wrong versions on all possible hosts and patches.. when i try to connect i get a JOOS - COUNT MPSYS CONNS something and it just starts reconnecting.. any ideas?

Last edited by scipy, Sat 3 Jan 2009, 18:30.

Quote from Toddshooter :

That was one of the most ignorant posts ever, especially coming from you!!!!!!!!


Proper technique? What technique would that be? I think we all heard what your "Technique" is!
Enlighten us Oh Mighty One:bowdown:

Exactly what squidhead wrote. He just gave vague comments that you expect from someone who was just given a job to report on a race and was nowhere near motorsport before that. Most of the commentary is like that, even when ITV does F1 laps, I understand that you can't go into all the details on TV - but if you're calling this "insight" and it's supposed to teach drivers some things about a particular track, it was quite worthless. I will write a walk-through of all the corners on AS5 and then you tell me if it's hugely more helpful than this was. (It'll be done in a few hours, I have some stuff to do now.)

omg, I'm really sorry.. I appreciate the effort you put in and everything, but I just find you sooooooooo fricking annoying. The accent, the SHI-canes, the wrong gears.. find someone who understands & can explain the proper technique to do the audio overlays. Otherwise, good job.

Quote from dadge :

AMEN to that. i don't think you're alone using that technique gunn. i do the same (except heel/toe) thing. i engine brake alot too. brake bal is usually around the F60/R40 mark. but usually when i notice i'm locking up i try to brake earlier and if that doesn't work, i reduce the brake power.

Will all of you just stop spreading miss-conceptions about engine braking? Please. It should be avoided at all cost, especially in racing. I will not start an argument again, there was a thread about this before, tristan & me gave several good explanations - obviously you could just ignore it, but at least keep your bad driving habits to yourself.

Quote from Gunn :

Of course you can. You can toast them within one lap if they are at optimum temperature - the severity of the effect differs between cars, tracks and setups, but it certainly exists, especially for slick tyres.

The only car in LFS that I have tire temp problems with is FXO It's just an overpowered FWD and there's no way to be fast and keep the tires nice - there are much heavier FWD cars in real life which can be driven for more than 1-2 laps on a mid-sized circut without everything going into flames. As far as slicks are concerned, in my experience if you keep them in their optimum slip angles and the setup isnt something extremley understeery/oversteery - they are quite ok.

Quote from Gunn :

After testing many LFS cars, tracks, setups and configs: I agree completely with you. IMO the tyres for a specific car on a specific track can heat up too fast and become unusable easily, but choosing the next 'hardest' tyre means it will never reach peak operating temperature and therefore will never reach its potential for that track and car. While there seems to be nothing at all 'wrong' with the way LFS dishes out the punishment and rewards to tyre physics, it all seems a bit 'boom or bust' in the way that one minute your car is predictable and within perhaps another one third of a lap your car is now undrivable.

In general (and this is really a broad generalisation) the LFS tyres are changing too rapidly from one extreme to the other.

I believe that tyres should perform better, earlier and decay with less enthusiasm and over a longer period of time before they ultimately fail due to abuse or neglect, or both.

I wouldn't neccesarily agree with this. Imo, LFS tire model works quite well around the optimum temp values. It's not like you can burn them really easily (even when driving on the limit), ofcourse if u keep drifting around they will be ruined, and the more sensitive the tire (slicks) and heavier the cars (FZR) that effect will seem a bit sudden. Imo the only part of LFS tire physics that doesnt quite work is the one from ambient temp up to pre-heated values. If you leave the tires to cool down to ambient 23 or so °C and then try to drive them hard, they wont get to operating temperature even after 2-3 laps of really REALLY agressive driving (especially air temp inside the tire, well i can understand that part since air picks up temp via convection and rubber via conduction, so the bottleneck of heat transfer will be on the air side). And maybe the other thing is once you've burned your tires.. in real life they'd blister and develop hot spots and never get back to ideal again, while in LFS you can just do the next few corners carefully and have them be great again.

In some distant future, if LFS tire physics model would be responsive to tire scrub-in periods and proper caretaking of tires that would be great, but it would require saveable sets of tires and other things.. If they could at least fix the physics from ambient temps to operating temps and have road cars leave the pits with ambient temp tires.. that'd be a lot better. Also if you ruin your tires you shouldn't get to just go easy for half a lap and everything is back to normal.. there should be a more sevear punishment

Last edited by scipy, Mon 29 Dec 2008, 00:25.

Quote from Rotary :

There is no need to adjust or have a set brake force in LFS. It's simple, really, ABS only engages when it detects a wheel locking/skidding. ABS is independant of the Brake Force setting.

So, in LFS, if your brake force is low you will be less likely to lock/skid the wheels and therefore ABS won't engage that often. If you set the brake force high, it will be easier for you to lock/skid your wheels when braking and therefore ABS will kick in more often. Just like now, it's just a matter of testing the setup on the track to find the braking threshold.

I hope you understand what I'm trying to explain!

I understand what you're trying to say, but you're just wrong in this case. ABS is directly dependant on brake force setting (in LFS) and since brakes aren't pressure sensitive - that is the problem. Obviously, if the Scirocco is made to have 2000 Nm brakes a full travel of the pedal will cause all wheels to lock up at any speed, I'm not saying threshold braking will be impossible to perform - it will be doable, but only if you start using 40-60 % of the brake pedal travel - which will make it stand out from all the other cars in LFS (in a way that it needs to be driven completley different). The current setup options allow for everyone to use the brake force they are comfortable with or that is suited for a particular track, albeit, "default" values are pretty much known: STD is fine with 700-800 Nm, TBO with around 1000-1100 Nm, GTR with 1800-2000 Nm and so on. My conclusion is that the Scirocco should be set to a fixed force value around what is the norm for the rest of the TBO class, since 1100 Nm on a FXO will lock up the rear wheels under heavy braking, and ABS kicking in at that point would be the optimal way to stop a car - but this would differe from a real life Scirocco since you wouldn't be able to lock all 4 wheels in straight-line braking. But I guess some compromise has to be made between real life and simulation.

Quote from Scawen :

Our aim is to make the Scirocco our first car with very limited setup options. The plan is to make it have only the setup options that are readily available on a real road going Scirocco, for example tyre pressures and toe settings. This will mean that the racing should be closer than usual and rely on driver skill, without the need to search for the best setups. Of course this means we need to get the setup as good as possible so it is comparable with the real car.

I was just wondering, how are you going to solve the brake pressure problem? Obviously you can take the bias from the real car, but brake pressure in a real Scirocco is virtually "unlimited" depending on how hard you can step on the pedal. I consider this a problem because LFS and all the hardware out there is still travel-sensitive and if we take the maximum amount that you can press a pedal on a PC and in LFS as the "absolute maximum pressure" then the ABS will kick in right away and the car will never stop (well it will stop but 2-3 car lenghts further than it would with threshold braking).

So, is the brake force going to be set at a fixed value just around the the kick-in point of the ABS (so we can still brake at max. pedal travel like with all the other cars in LFS, depending on brake force ofcourse) or is the brake pressure going to be uberhigh and we'll have to use only 50-60 % pedal travel (like in iRacing) to avoid ABS from kicking in?

The following screenshot explains in much less words what I mean. The first line (one where the car is) is the result of brake force adjusted for threshold braking, second one is 10 Nm higher and the ABS kicks in on rear tires only and the furthers line is max brake force so ABS works all the way.

emo \o/, cut urself now?

Quote from Reini68 :

But the person that was lapped before doesn't finish the racedistance either. He is however ranked (-1 lap). But as I said it isn't much of a warry to me, but it's in contradiction to the real life.

Tell me something please, the picture in your avatar, is it you? Cause if it is you've made my day.. I can imagine your confused face trying to count laps on ur fingers.. math is so hard

Quote from Mp3 Astra :

Hey, how about you **** off. Dick. I don't give a shit... about what you thinnk.

U know what'd be great.. if for your next report, after you say your first few words the video switches to Rick Astley - Never gonna give u up.. that'd be awesome, and like at least 7x less silly and more entertaining than a rocket launching from south city

Last edited by scipy, Thu 30 Oct 2008, 22:00.

Quote from Mp3 Astra :

For all you fans...

LOL, you've really outdone urself on that one.. reports about a league that was done at the end of AUGUST and about a league in which people with around 1200 miles drive. WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE, I can hardly contain my excitment. How about you go out and get a clue, and then report about something NEW, cause it is the root of the word NEWS.

Quote from Reini68 :

O.K. I will post a setup this evening. But the point is, that I have the problem with all the normal setups.

Which brings us back to your driving. You are probably doing what every nab does at the begining, you approach a corner then brake, get off the brakes completley and start turning and the car ofcourse - won't turn.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circle_of_forces

If by some chance you didn't understand the point of this, you need to make smooth transitions from straightline braking to cornering and back, i.e. braking is 100 % steering is at 0 %, braking 95 % steering 5 %, braking 75 steering 25, braking 50 steering 50 and finally braking at 0 % and steering wheel at a maximum lock for that particular corner (doesnt mean full possible lock). Same with corner exit, when you wanna get on throttle dont slam it with the wheel turned, you start unwinding the steering wheel and applying throttle in the same "steps", how ever much u reduce steering that's how much throttle you add - so the forces on the tire are always at the maximum = the radius of the circle (max G for a particular tire).

Quote from banshee56 :

Because you have trouble finding (and turning DOWN) that "outbound" setting in Ventrilo. My ears are still ringing. True story.

Whaaaaaaaaat?! When I installed it and played around with the settings I asked everyone if it was fine and it was a bit quiet so I turned it up a bit.. and then it was "much better" :P so blame ur team mates..

I does great job in 16 h too!!! Wai I no join?

Grats burnsy

Acceleration out of a turn is a transient thing, meaning dampers have more of an effect than the antiroll bars (although these have an effect on the whole cornering phase too), also there's the % lock of the diff, the rear toe setting, relative cambers front and rear, and ofcourse, your driving. You being a "new guy", you can hardly be surprised if the rear end of a FZR/XRR/FO8 gets away from you.. so just find a decent setup (setupgrid.net) and drive that until you can get within half a sec of some respectable race-pace. Reason for this is that your skills and objectivity are not yet on a level which allows you to make distinctions between what is a car/setup fault and what is your "driver" error. Even some very fast people will rather poke around at the setup insted of adjusting their driving technique to reach a goal, a real driver should be able to do both.

Quote from The Moose :

I held a couple CTRA records.
I won a few races on CTRA.
I am doing quite well in the CTRA rankings.

I often take Moose's CTRA records.
I won a few races everywhere.
I has an erection. It's pwn.

Quote from pearcy_2k7 :

i want to know what they said

AMB: ...
Dariich: i impale him on my dick (literal translation means more like f**k you)
matija123: ...
Dariich: i'll speak yours motherf*cker
matija123: ...
AMB: ...
.
.
.
Blue_Fatal1ty: r we going?

LOL, my countrymen. Really makes me proud. They should be banned forever for that kinda behaviour.