Quote from bbman :

A shame it isn't downloadable though...

You couldn't find it doesn't mean it doesn't exist Try www.bmwusa.com
Navigate to "Experience Site" there it is 260MB zipped in the download area.
There you'll find also the "M3 GTR Hans Stuck Lap" with Stuck commenting his own lap.

I thought i had lost this video, but now found it on an old HD again
Lap at LeMans with some nice POV's.

Le Mans - Tour de circuit

Quote from XRRoy :

Races from 87 till 92 like the BTCC, ATCC, DTM etc

Yes pls post em. DTM '92 Nordschleife.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEHSapAo3jA

If it's just another conversion of an conversion i won't pay. If it's a GPS accurate version of the current Ring, including older Ring versions derived from the todays gps data i would sure pay more then 20€.

Snijers M3 Manx Rally

http://212.85.110.81/_pw/Manx_Snijers_M3_1988.wmv
or
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9BmDY-5ork

Quote from skstibi :

I have gotten used to driving my Volkswagen Passat and my Sisters GLI where the reverse is Down, to the LEFT, and UP.

You know that the stick position is determined by pots? Changing R-Gear layout wount be a easy job.

Quote from sidi :

Matrixi's wheel sounds pretty bad and i can only assume something inside is not quite fitting aswell as it should (maybe a loose motor).

Yeah maybe just a lose motor, or maybe something with the spring. In the worst case the teeths are damaged, then i would be worried about mine. A lose motor is quite normal for other logitech wheels. Now we have two motors so chances have doubled.

Btw. I think the G25 is a good wheel for the money you pay. But its not close to what i consider a perfect wheel (even with "todays" ff technologie). I would spend more, if ...

lyd, 2 years warranty in germany too.

Yep mine makes a little different noise turning one way then the other. But to be onest i expected this since i saw the first pictures of the two-parted big cogwheel with preload by a spring for backlash reduction. Cause when turning one way you turn against the preloaded upper part of the big cogwheel. When turning the other way around you turning against the lower part of the big cogwheel.

Quote from deggis :

What do you mean?

Well, which effect(s) are in use by RBR?

Of course i used only Global Device Settings and no profile or vice versa.

@Matrixi

did you plan to open the wheel to look what had happend?

Quote from Shotglass :

theres a 3rd since the first one i kinda stupid which is to set lfs and the drivers to 720 so youll have a lock with most of lfses cars and no lock on those where youll probably never get anywhere near the lock anyway

This sounds more resonable then setting it to 900°. Since there is no car with 900° and 720° perfectly fits 12 of 19 LFS cars.

Doeboy,
just listen to Tristan's wise words, and your problem is solved.

It don't matter how many do agree. The link you posted is intressting. There you can read that scawen also said:
Originally Posted by Scawen

Quote :

OK... so... maybe i'm wrong to say that the spring strength should be zero. It seems strange - i can't understand what it can really mean. The thing is, i've always assumed that "Spring Strength" was related to an auto-centering spring.
But then, "enable centering spring" is switched off, so there shouldn't be a centering spring, so what "Spring Strength" means, i don't know.

Not so sure if Scawen do know. And in the next post Colcob is saying basicly the same thing i was saying, so i guess at least he agree with me :-) Scawen also described how to check your driversettings:

Originally Posted by Scawen

Quote :

Anyway here's a simple test to check for "correctness" of your wheel driver settings :

- Start LFS and sit on the track in any car
- Press the "<" key to set the force right down to zero
- Now, your wheel should be loose - no force, stays where you put it

My wheel passes his correctness test with 0% or 150% for spring/damper.

About RBR i cant comment cause it wont work with my G25 atm .
What effect does it use? Can you check this for me? (i'll give you information how to check it, if you want to)

About the difference spring effect and centering spring. Spring effect is a FF effect type (ET) but centering spring is a device/driver handeld effect with no relation to FF. You feel the centering spring when no FF application is running for instance on the windows desktop, or with any non FF Game. i.e. changing the centering spring strenght will change how fast/strong the wheel centers when your in windows or any non FF application. Set it to 0% and you will see that the wheel don't center in windows anymore. Starting a FF application will automaticly turn off centering spring. Exept you have checked the box "enable spring effect" then the centering spring is activated in FF games too. So you don't want "enable spring effect" for non FF games, you enable it if you want centering spring in your FF game.

If you want to know how the different effect work and feel, you can creat them with ImmersionStudio (demo available) or MS Force Editor(old but working) Fedit.exe its pretty much selfexplaining. Start it , click the joystick icon select your FF device, click on a effect icon. Right click on the created effect, select properties and change axes setting. Then press play and experiment with the values and sliders.

Quote from deggis :

Wrong! LFS doesn't use these settings and that's why they should be disabled (at 0%). If you keep them on the damper & spring effects are added by the drivers (afaik). These just messes up the FFB feeling.

Now this is all wrong. Don't you thing the differnence between 0% and 150% would be obviuos to feel in LFS. Well but there is no difference in LFS. Like the button in the controll panel says: it controlls ET Damper and ET Spring strenght, if none of these effect types are in use by the sim their strenght can't be controled.

Overall Effects Strength: personal preference , i prefer 115-125%

Spring Effects Strength: Setting doesn't matter for LFS

Damper Effect Strength: Setting doesn't matter for LFS

Enable Centering Spring
Centering Spring Strength:
Usaly adviced to keep disabled but try enabled and set to 15-30% it helps to reduce wheel oscillations whitout affecting the ff feeling.

Report Combined Pedals: No, keep them seperate

Degrees of Rotation: i use 540° for now.

Setting in game: depending on Overall Effects Strength. Higher values in control panel require lower settings in LFS.

I suggest 115-125% in Control panel. Why i do it, well check it out yourself with FFconst.exe, it allows you to manualy send the same FF effect as LFS does. With 100% you will notice a deadzone in the middle i.e. you can drag the slider a bit but the wheel does not move. When you set it to 115%-125% you will notice that the wheel instantly reacts to small slider movements. In LFS i have set it very low, 10-30% depending on car and set.

FlipFlop, Mcman already answered that. It's because the G25 has a much reduced gear ratio then the DFP. Now it is more noticable but you can turn the wheel faster and with less noise. As Mcman said its a compromise about price and quality. The main problem remains the commutation process of the brushes. The Motor in FFB wheels operate in stall mode or at very low rpm's most of the time, this has high requirements on the motor. A cheaper solution then using a zero-cog BDC motor could be to use a brushless motor with smart software control (sinusiodial current control), which i thought logitech is going for when i first read about the G25.

I don't thing it's a problem with the spring, but you have to open it to be sure.

What are your FF settings in LFS and in control panel?

Quote from FlipFlop :

Hi there,
i am wondering if the feeling while steering with high force feedback (like centering spring) is normal.

Yeah thats is normal. It's caused by the cheap BDC Motors which have a good amount of magnetic cogging, and torque ripple during commutation. It requires very high quality servo motors to get rid of it, but a single motor costs more then a G25 set. Of course the cogwheels have a coggy feel too, but not much when seperated from the motor.

Quote from tristancliffe :

The box is tiny isn't it! Half the size of the Momo's, yet with twice the 'stuff'! Amazing!

When i first saw the Postmen with that tiny box, i wanted to send him to hell But what realy amazed me is that my room stinks like a chemical fabric after unpacking the wheel. And the wheel still smells bad, after about a week.

Quote from axus :

who the hell names their kid Jaap by the way

yes this Jaap guy is a Fanboy at War, but jumping on names is a bit poor.
And how can someone call their Kids Racer and Rider ?!

Nkp got some potential , but far away from LFS. Specialy when it comes to MP.

Last edited by M.Mos, Wed, 1 Nov 2006 19:56.

Today i found myself having a bleeding finger. Didn't noticed when it happend, but i found out that the shifter paddels had some sharp edges. So i rub them down with sand paper. Do your wheels had that too?

Use simple Soap, use a brush and "generate" some foam. Make sure the leather don't get wet to much (just on the surface). Brush it with the foam then remove the dirty foam and repeat until its clean. If the dirt doesn't come off you have to use something more aggresive or scrub harder.

But this MARS® or shit like you call it , can be removed quite well with simple soap.

After driving with my Wheel, my m8 wanted one too. All Shops which had them on stock in Germany sold them within the same day they received it. Now he ordered from a France shop , they deliver nearly everywhere to europe, and still have them in stock. Unfortunanty it's expensive there 261€+20€ for shipping by COD.

If you can't wait try www.pixmania.com

Germany got it's batch of G25's today :-)

I used to drive a 1:8 nitro buggy about 15 years ago, i still have it. Recently i started again but now i drive a 1:6 FG MonsterTruck. After buying the FG i discoverd MCD RC cars and are thinking i should have better bought one of these

Yeah some german shops claim they have them in stock.