Quote from bbman :

Stop this false myth, they will NOT unless you do something wrong... Like, staying on the throttle while rolling backwards with autoclutch on...

If you disable the autoclutch (which will help shifting times btw), you'll have no problems whatsoever, as the car stalls before there is any noticeable heat...

My apologies.... I am using autoclutch until I get my DFP back... but of course this isn't an issue for me as I keep my cars going forward...

I'm sorry, please don't hurt me

But still the tyres will get all but destroyed after a spin on track

Quote from marzman :

Some say it's not true. But if it is true, you could inform driver when he passes start/finish. That's a few 100 meters at most on most circuits.
I doubt that. Bikers uses these for communication and i don't think the average biker is that much richer then a racer.
Why should you always know your position anyway? If you remove it from the topright it won't always be that clear. Especially in long races where you can't know in what lap all the other racers are.

What about a friend or an other racer that has his race later that day? But if the game changes the way you would like it you would have to get out of your car twice in a 3 hour race to change all the tires, fill it with gas and hammer some dents out all by yourself. I hope that day will never come

These are all fair enough points, but the point Tristan was getting at (i beleive, having raced Caterhams myself) is most club racers will go so far as even put themselves in debt purely looking after the car. I know there have been several nasty repair bills for my car. The cost to run the caterham for a standard 12 race season was about 6 thousand pounds. Now that was incident free and didn't include actually buying the car, thats just fuel, wear and tear, club membership, league fees, travel and paddock rental. I'm not sure about Tristans' experience, but I would expect it to be similar, so add on to that the cost of the car, any unexpected repair bills, it's not a cheap pass-time. The benefits of the telemetry and radio system, for example, don't come anywhere near the benefits of actually being able to replace a part on the car with a brand new part as opposed to a refurbished bit pinched from a scrapyard...

And with regards to having someone in the pits/on the pitwall waiting for you to come round, yea, you try dragging your missus 800 miles for a weekend where she sits and watches you drive around, fiddle with the car, drive around, fiddle some more, drive around, come off the track. They will only EVER do that once...

Quote from GobLox :

Forces are not influenced by gravity; masses are.

Actually, it's the mass that isn't affected by gravity, weight(force) is a result of gravity

Mass is the volume of the unit multipled by its density... for instance 1g = 1cc x 1cc/g

For instance 1g of water is 1g of water whether here, in space or on jupiter.

However lbs (weight) being the result of gravity are partial to changes in global variations. (So ladies, always weigh yourselves around midday on a new moon).

The imperial measurement for mass is called a slug, and in stadard conditions (gravity being 9.8N/kg or 9.8m/s^2) is 32lbs. Alternately you can use lbM (pound-mass) which is a 1/32 of a slug (making it a lb on earth)


EDIT: And stones are a measure of force....

Last edited by Kamrock, Sun 4 May 2008, 06:29.

Quote from _Rob_ :

GTi lookalike = 1984-92 Suzuki Swift


1.3, 101bhp. 101bhp isn't too far from 115....

And the 20v 4age engine (toyota), is 1.6 litres, and produced 158 when introduced in 1991. So 100bhp/litre was possible back then (even with 16 valves, e.g Honda B16, producing 160-170bhp back in the early 90s, from a 1.6)

Agreed, I have a 1988 (yep, 20 years old now) CR-X with a D16a9 engine in it and at last dyno run (completely stock, but with a new bottom end) it was still pushing 141bhp (originally quote 135bhp)

The ultimate setup is to have the gears (and driver) setup so that you change up when the acceleration in your current gear dips just below the acceleration in the next gear up. But this of course just assumes that you get your transmission curve right in the first place. I am working on some power/torque curves based on a cars performance as this is something I've always wanted...

@jarmenia - what sort of racing are you looking to do? I'm a fairly accomplished drag/caterham racer IRL and I have been able to help people iron out issues in their driving styles after watching a few laps.

Would you be able to send me a replay of you doing say 10 laps around the track you're having issues with?


EDIT:
Also, someone mentioned the red light being the ultimate time to change up? Personal experience has lead me to beleive this is not so, I find it far too high in most cars, including the XFG the FXO and the RB4 as three examples...

Last edited by Kamrock, Sun 4 May 2008, 04:01.

Have you got a good WR setup for this combo at all? I can knock one up for you but it'll take a day or so as I don't usually drive GTRs, it's either TT or SS for me..

Also, by Endurance what are we talking? CTRA Endurance day isn't an endurance race.

So what would the traits you'd require? High ride height (for the jumps) off-road tyres and presumably fairly close gears?

Quote from monkeejr1 :

how you do burnouts?!

sorry noob Question

I very nearly ignored this thread... I now wish I had.... lols

What, may I ask, is the burnout for? Tyre temps? Stick the big old knobbly ones on the back of an XRT, make the suspension nice and hard, and follow the above.

Alternatively the LX cars are good for wheel spinning, also the BF1 or FO8.

The UFR will spin fairly ferociously with an aggressive start too, pull the handbrake on hard and bang, lots of tyre smoke and no front tyres in 30 seconds flat....

Quote from Bob Smith :

For picking wing angles, I always use something that gives me about the same top speed at the end of the longest straight as what the WR lap manages. Let somebody else do the testing as to what the optimum settings are.

This is probably the best advice you can get, I tend to treat the wings like a mix between the gears and the dampers... you need to ensure that the amount of DF doesn't hinder your top speed doesn't allow you to overcook the back ( Single seaters can (and will) burn out clutches and tyres in just one spin) and keeps the from end tight enough to belt through the corners without getting understeer.

Understeer, your front/rear DF ratio is too low, ie raise the front/lower the back..

Oversteer, your front/rear DF ratio is too high, reverse the above

Being overtaken on a flat-out straight, both are too high

Becoming unable at high speeds, both are too low.

I'm sure you realised all of this but I will mention it again as this rather simplistic view of it all is fairly accurate, take for example, the FBM on westhill, because Westhill is a VERY fast circuit and in the FBM there are only two points where you won't be in at least 5th gear, thr DF on the front can be quite low, but you want a fairly decent rear DF figure to keep the grip up through the long fast corners...

Aston Cadet, however, is much different affair, the slower top speed of the track allows you to lower the back end DF, but the (quite tight) mid-speed corners require a bit more front end DF, and as the top speed is fairly low you can also sacrafice a bit more top end to gain grip through the corners.

Does this help?

Use a lower lock level on the Limited Slip, it might mean your corner exit speed is a little lower, but then at the same time, pit every three laps or take a 2 second a lap hit on ext speeds? Otherwise I can't really say anything that hasn't been said.

Camber angle if the heat is just on one edge of the tyre, also a lot can be said about just turning the wheel enough to take the corner, and remember it's better to take the first part of the corner more gently and power out as straight as you can....

With a fairly low locking (below 50%) LSD instead of locked diff, and gentle steering I can get the tyres to last about 40 laps on an FXO, you do sacrifice a little speed, but lets face it, on all but the tightest Autocross tracks the FXO has power and speed to spare in comparison to the other TBO cars.

Use a clutchpack LSD with 35% lock under power and 25% under coast with a preload of around 70Nm and certainly 30 laps is easily done, do this and you will experience tyre wear as opposed to just overheating... But most important is to steer gently

Try this mate, as I say, I can't be doing with all that sideways tyre burning malarky!

Enjoy

Quote from flymike91 :

o and btw don't clutch kick the rb4, it dies

MAXI LOLS

Four wheel snap FTW!!!

Just wind the centre diff to 100% rear.... RWD RB4 lol

Lol, I can reimburse you a drift setup, but it'll be designed, not tested, my throttle control is not yet good enough for drifting

Ok, when changing a setup I normally name the setup with it's major trait(fault), the last item changed and the edition number... FI: XFG_SO1_238_os_cmbr

Long file names, but it works, and yes, I do have more than 238 XFG SO1 setups that I really ought to clean up, the benefit is most are hidden from view as I only keep 10 setups for each track in the folder....

Ok, I was actually thinking of tightening the rear up to increase the oversteer myself. Intrigued over your thoughts on corner exit traction, but of course the open diff will be lower than the clutch pack. I generally found the setup quite quick, especially in the hairpin-chicane sequence of SO1. I've not noticed the suspension bottoming out myself, but I'll increase the height in the front and maybe up the spring slightly.

And yes, the arse-dragging rear camber is nice through the hairpin, isn't it...

I am going to play with the setup right now, I might try losing some ARB on the rear although that oversteer twitch is a really nice feature. Right I'm off to get my low 51s times

Keep us informed, Dude. And don't give up skinning, at least not until you've finished my OLFSL skins, hehe

Generally I don't, if I can think of something that needs changing, I normally create a new setup and change it in that.

During the second part of the chicane do you get a nice satisfying (or not) slide going through? I would agree, one of the worse things you can do is keep the car low, you're just gonna end up (because the weight will still shift, but suspension won't react) only having one side of grip.

Also, what sort of powerload does the understeer come in at? Remember your diff settings also affect the amount of grip when cornering. Ultimately, though, you want the compress slower than it decompresses to avoid grounding the car and losing grip completely down one side.

EDIT:
It's definately not a case of flipping a coin to work out what you need to do, possibly the best thing when dealing with suspension is to start with the default hard track setup (a nice place to start) on the skid pad/autocross/BL carpark and just tweak it while driving around testing different settings. Also, try and avoid using locked differentials when working out grip levels and suspension responses. A locked diff leads to understeer/oversteer in very bizarre places.

Last edited by Kamrock, Mon 21 Apr 2008, 00:06. Reason : A new idea

Quote from Zachary Zoomy :

I'm starting to get bored in LFS no matter what I do.

That's what demo is for, it's always fun having your XRG rammed off the road by some idiot in an XFG, hehe

Well, it can't be that bad, nobodies complained yet.....

lols

Open Diff FTW

Right, here they are, an open diff setup for SO1 and likewise a low-locking Clutchpack setup for SO1 (both work in reverse, too, unlike most setups going around) Have a play with them see if you can improve them, note how they comfortably do 10 laps without running the tyres above 65 degrees...

I agree almost completely with everything here said. I'm afraid, if it's not a land rover, it shouldn't be locked. Remove locked diffs completely, they're not needed with this level of physics being thrown at the cars. Also, i agree with the bizarre FWD/AWD suspension setups (that quite possibly have just survived the patches). Everywhere I go playing TBO class cars and GT2 class cars, I hear the same thing

Quote :

Ahh, My FXO won't last a lap on tyres, how do I change this

Previously I put it down to driving style, but yea, looking at their setups, they always have locked setups, and the tyres don't last more than 5 laps, even taking the thing gently around the skid pad....

Locked Diffs are fine for drag setups, you can get away with them in off-road and drift setups, but for a responsive track car that doesn't chew up tyres? It's gotta be more open. In fact, the FXO is stable enough to have open diffs IMO...

EDIT: I will be posting an FXO setup with an open diff when i get home from work.....

Quote from Ferroc :

Huh, a cheater in oval :grumpy:

In the first lap he used some tweak and was going up to 350km/h

Looks like the whole brake thing again, gotta love his last comments..

"i have no idea I had tweak"
"is that tweak?"

Classic noobish into a wall, though

Thats jpg artifact, if I'm not mistaken.... odd idea, creating noise to compress the file...