Quote from farcar :

I really hope you're right, but I think you've lost your Ten Bucks.

Bathurst was one of my definite favourites in Toca3 back in the days. Very exciting track, you really had to time your overtakings carefully.

Have the developers ever talked about including real tracks in the game? Just curious..

Sounds like you should speak with the guys at the store where you bought it.

Thanks guys! I've got it set up just nicely now. All I can say so far is -- woha! This is so awesome! So far I'm just dicking around on the carpark, getting used to manual gears and 7,29 million degrees of rotation.

I got the G25. Calibrating it right now. I'm having trouble setting it up so that the wheel rotation matches the rotation in the game 1:1. I guess I should go looking for some thread where it is explained..

This is so exciting! Can't wait to get racin'.

Hi guys!

The situation is this: I had a MOMO wheel which broke down on me, so I returned it to the store. Now it turns out that the MOMO is no longer available in Norway, so basically I have these two options:

1) Get a DFP for no extra charge
2) Get a G25 for about 150$ extra

(Yeah, I live in an expensive country..) Total price for the G25 is just over 300$.

I'm thinking stuff like

- noise. Will my neighbours be disturbed? (The walls here are thin..)
- response. I know the G25 returns to center much faster than the DFP. Does this really matter in game? How does either of them compare to the MOMO?
- feel / force feedback. Is there much of a difference in smoothness or realism?

While I can certainly afford the G25, I don't want to spend unecessarily much on something that doesn't really make much of a difference.. (I'm a student afterall. ) Since both wheels seem pretty similar on the surface (900 degrees of rotation being the most important), I want to be sure before I throw cash out the window.

Thanks guys!

Hi guys! My old MOMO broke, and it seems that it's no longer available in Norway. Therefore my local store has to get me another wheel, either a DFP or a G25. I'm pretty broke, so I think I'll have to go with the DFP, unless there's a very good reason to justify nearly doubling the price to get a G25. One of the main issues for me is sound, since the walls where I live are really thin and I don't want to disturb my neighbour.

So: does the DFP make more/less noise than the G25? Are either of them significantly more noisy than the MOMO, which I think was quite silent?

And: is the G25 overall worth the extra $$ compared to the DFP?

Thanks!

-------------------
EDIT:: I found this little video clip on youtube comparing the G25 and DFP noise. Honestly I don't know which is worse. :lol:

Last edited by Gnomie, Mon, 26 Nov 2007 13:53.

Quote from arco :

Turn off Gear Change Cut (...)

I've noticed that all the WR replays do this.. what's the advantage really? Are we talking brushing of a few hundredths off the lap time at the expense of higher engine wear in long races, or what?

I guess I just find the noise too annoying to bother..

Quote from ajp71 :

For now I'd recommend you use the easy race setups they're only a bit slower in capable hands and I promise you you will get up to pace quicker in a stable car you don't have to worry about controlling.

Does that setup pack work with the newest versions? Doesn't it give massive understeer or something?

Hang on.. a material's heat conductivity is irrespective of the direction of heat flow..

Or were you talking about something else?

In my limited LFS experience so far I prefer the medium/long ones. (two of my favourites are Aston Historic/national) It's more challenging with longer tracks because, as you said, there are more places to screw up.

Quote from Bladerunner :

To be brutally honest, I think you are going to have to get busy with a saw...

That's what I did when I got my (recently deceased) MOMO.




Looks like hell, I know, but at least it works.

I never really looked at the LEDs (in fact I have some small pieces of tape to cover them since I think they're too bright). If you feel the FFB working, I wouldn't worry.

BTW my Momo just broke down on me. After only 1 week of use! I was driving just like normal when suddenly the FFB felt incredibly uneven. I thought I'd hit some invisible bump and ruined my suspension or something, but when I restarted it was still there. The smoothness of the resistance is gone, now it is very jagged and weird. And when I turn the wheel to it's maximum rotation I get this weird, continous humming sound. This doesn't only happen in game, but also on the Windows desktop. I've tried unplugging my power leads, changing the USB contact to the PC and turning the PC off and on, with no luck. I attached a video. To hear the sound I think you need to play it in Windows Media Player -- I couldn't hear sound in Winamp or VLC.

This was quite a let down. Here's my complete wheel history:

1) Bought my first wheel back in 2004. This was a crappy one with no force feedback or anything, but it was fun nonetheless. After a while it refused to let me turn to the right. So I returned it to the store in 2006. Thanks to the Norwegian laws the shop is required to provide an equal or better product in return if it breaks and they decide not to fix it. Since this wheel was out of production I got a

2) Logitech Formula Force EX in stead.

This kept going until about a month ago, when it started shaking uncontrollably when turning to the left or right more than 45 degrees. It was as if the FFB suddenly shut down for a fraction of a second before starting again with a loud bang, several times in a row. Totally unplayable. So I returned this to the store and got my

3) Logitech Formula Force EX # 2. And guess what? The exact same problem. This was the point where I had recently discovered LFS, so I was pretty annoyed that my new wheel didn't work either. But the guy at the store said it was a known issue and were happy to take it back. Then I decided I'd had enough of these wheels, and paid the extra $$ to get a

4) MOMO instead. This is the wheel that I've been using for the past week, with great success. Now I'm completely and utterly hooked to LFS, and the prospect of handing the wheel back to the store and waiting even further for a replacement really annoys me. But I see no other options.

I'm pretty pissed right now, as you can imagine.. is this just my bad luck, or do Logitech products generallly have a lot of errors??

Quote from Gentlefoot :

I'm not a keyboard player and I can tell you that when you 'snap' the throttle on (like you must with keyboard controls) you are more likely to cause wheelspin. So keyboard won't be helping.

Having said that I'm sure there will be scope for improvement in the settings. Here are some tips I posted earlier today in the beginners forum. I bolded the ones I think will help you most on corner exit

[B]Increase front ARB - this will make the car push on more under power and make any slide easier to control.

Could you please explain what is meant by ARB? I can't find any settings which abbreviate to that..

Good to hear Venix! I have the same wheel as you do, but I'm even newer to the game than you -- I got my wheel less than a week ago. See you online!

Hi guys! Thanks for a great app! But is it possible to turn of the gear shift indicating sound? I tried to simply remove it from the folder, but then the program started complaining.. I couldn't find an obvious line in the config file either.

EDIT: never mind, I just replaced the file with an empty sound file.

Last edited by Gnomie, Sat, 27 Oct 2007 19:57.

All right, I will do that! Thank you.

Hm.. I tried installing this. I first got the connection error, but then I started a multiplayer game and configured a (random) password, then exited. Now the connection timeout is no longer a problem, but when I start pitspotter and it launches LFS, I get this weird error message repeating over and over in the top left corner of the screen once I start the game. (even in the main menu) It says: "insim: first byte in packet does not match size".

Any ideas?

Down to 3:05,84 now. So that's an improvement by 2 seconds from this morning, and 5 seconds from last night! Gotta keep this up, and I should be down to 3:00 in a few days. Then it's time to look at some new cars/tracks.

Man, I seriously love this game. I can't remember ever having such a good time gaming! And I haven't yet started doing races with other players.. the best is yet to come! I'm looking forward to the day when I'll be good enough to do 10 lap races against other (clean) drivers and keep in touch with the field throughout the race.

A little hint to others: I've been experimenting with the settings on my wheel, and found it much easier to "read the car's mind" after I installed this excellent sound pack, which installs new skid sounds. I'm starting to realise that LSF is not just about visual stuff, it's also about feeling and sound.

OK, I have another question:

Is it possible to adjust the maximal rotation of the LSF wheel? I mean, from what I gather now, it's like this:

240 degrees of MOMO rotation <--> 720 degrees of LSF wheel <--> ~ 30 degrees of tyres

What I want to know is if it's possible to adjust it so that

240 degrees of MOMO rotation <--> ~ 400 degrees of LSF wheel <--> ~ 20 degrees of tyres

I know that this would make it harder to get around hairpins, but I'd like to know if it's possible to play around with this.

The reason I ask is that I think it's good to have a pretty linear relationship between the MOMO rotation and the LSF rotation. This is governed by the degree compensation slider (from 0 to 1). However if I set this to 1 the relationship will be nearly linear for, say, the first 90 degrees to either side, and then it seems to get almost exponential from 90 to 120 degrees for the remaining hundreds of degrees of rotation of the LSF wheel (inevitably).

Any ideas?

Quote from Gnomie :

I've been on gentlefoot.com#2 mostly [Aston Historic], and I'm currently at 3:09 with default setup. Need to shave off another 10 seconds from that, but at least I'm improving.

Now I'm down to 3:07. Got a nice setup for the XRT yesterday from Troy, and I've been tweaking it slightly today. Slowly getting there.. but more important than the actual lap times is that my consistency is improving. I'm now usually doing 3:08 +- 1 second, whereas previously I'd do 3:11 +-2 seconds. Still gotta shave off another 7 seconds, though... which might sound much, but I think I have an idea about where the potential is the greatest.

Quote from dpcars :

i've been playing with my LFS setup and after thinking about it for a while realized i had to sit A LOT closer to the screen... the result is quite amazing actually (there is a slightly more detailed writeup on my site http://www.dpcars.net/etc.htm)

Wow!! That looks amazing!

Quote from Foilpact :

If im drifting in a RWD then i drop a few gears as im flicking it into the corner before i get onto the power, it helps to get the back end unstuck...

Are you saying that it helps if you want do drift with the back end? Usually my problem isn't how to get the back end out, but how to keep control of it.

All right, thanks! I'll try lowering the compensation slider. Seems like that should give me more sensitivity and accuracy for turning in the "normal" region (i.e. not hairpins, but normal curves). My problem is that I seem to loose control of the back end too easily, and I think this could help.

Hi! I originally started asking about this in a different thread, but then I figured it would be more appropriate to put it in here.

So i got my momo today, and I'm very pleased so far. I've followed the LSF manual guide to setting up the profiler, but I'm a little confused with regards to the "wheel turn degrees" and "wheel turn compensation" in LSF. Can anyone tell me what settings they're using here? Seems like some people use 0.0 for the compensation while others use 1.0.. what do you think is best? I've been using 0.9 so far, but I'd like to hear what others do.

How do you actually receive a setup from someone? It says "xyz has sent you his setup" or something but I never find it..