Sounds like fairly standard issue with crossfire. As someone whom formally used Crossfire I'm going to say turn it off. I'm running a Radeon R9 390X and even running at 3440x1440 I'm still getting 500fps most of the time, rarely below 400fps.

Don't bother.

Quote from BrAinOfJ :

Alone together with someone else ???

Man if you get banned 5 times in thirty days your shouldnt be racing online....

I just wanted to say I've joined servers thinking hey some people to race with only to promptly get banned because I was intruding in their "private" but open session by joining or because i'm the wrong nationality. You don't even get a chance to quit or asked to leave. Just banned.

All cars have a different turn rate on the wheel when compared to different models. A Mazda RX7 doesn't have the same steering turn rate as a truck.

I'll give a perfect real life example. My real life car has a maximum turning lock on the wheel of 3.8 turns, That is 1368 degees! For a low speed tight left hand corner I need a full turn of steering lock to get around it. Basicly any kind of corner requires quite a bit of a turn on the wheel.

Another example. Mitsubishi Gallant VR4. Has IIRC 2.5 turns of steering lock. 900 degrees same as a G25. To turn that thing required very little steering lock, around a quarter to 3/5th's of a turn to make the same corner.

It's all reletive. The steering sensitivity when using a G25 feels very much like a sports car's steering rack and is quite fast.

To the opening poster. Something you may not have realised is that many cars have a variable ratio steering rack so they may be very slow around centre and then get more sensitive as you turn further or vice versa. If you find that steering is just too sensitive in LFS around centre you can go into the logitech profile and adjust the sensitivity.

To do this make a profile for Live for Speed. Once that is done click on Steering Wheel as one of the controls and it'll pop up a window that lets you change the sensitivity, dead zone and range of that controller axis. Decrease the sensitivity and it'll make the wheel less sensitive around centre. As you turn further you will get more steering input as you turn further and further.

Quote from Simpson :

Patience is like virginity, sooner or later everyone lost it.

That's right. Nobody dies a virgin. Because in the end life f@*s us all.

Christmas is a time for giving. Not a time for asking. Now because you have asked will be getting a LUMP OF COAL fired steam car if we are lucky.

It's all about the street cred.
BRAWP BROP BROP BROP BROP

Now to be serious. It's just another addition to the simulation. Saying that is like saying well LFS is a sim and we don't need tyre wear either.

Last edited by Crash Dummy, Mon, 22 Sep 2008 15:11.

Holiday island resort photographer

A couple of those are only on my main PC at home 1800KM away. I'll see if I can get some highish resolution desktop background style ones happening for you guys.

In the mean time
http://farm3.static.flickr.com ... 063009_0a714f247e_b_d.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com ... 859461_3a7c417c8a_o_d.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com ... 300404_f80af93492_b_d.jpg

Copyright of Gary Hope yada yada. Use'em as desktop's and I don't care so long as nobody is making money off them

They should do for wallpapers right now even at this resolution.

To make achieve the desired result you want your rev limiter to be engaged at the peak RPM lets say 7800rpm where power is cut and then allow the power to be reapplied at 7400rpm. That gives a 400rpm window in which the engine is allowed to slow down and gives the almost desirable sound some people like as the engine emits a shreek of high rpm screams and then BRAWP BOP BOP BOP BOP BOP as the engine cycles across this 400rpm window where power is cut then reapplied.

Quote from Snake2 :

I was doing an experiment to see if you could cheat using LFSTweak for patch Y. I done a hot lap ( South City Sprint 1 ) in The UF. It was easy to beat, so I saved the replay and then uploaded it in the Hot Lap's. I was expecting it to come up with an error but it didn't and whent straight on there. I deleted it straight away..

I dont really no what ells to say. But I jsut thought that I would bring it up so made someone could do something about it.

SORRY IF THIS IS IN WRONG SECTION BUT DID NOT KNOW WERE TO PUT IT.

There's a section in the end user license agreement about this buddy. This act you have just performed has resulted in people having their accounts banned. You might want to get in contact with the developers and let them know what you've done so you can redeem yourself before it's too late.

If your wheel works in the windows game controller screen and shows that you are pressing pedals and moving then wheel then your controller is fine. It's probably just a matter of mapping the controls within LFS.
When you are in game go into the controls menu, select the axis assignment tab and look at the bars on the right hand side of the screen. They are your steering, throttle, brake, clutch axis. Click on steering and then select the steering axis of your wheel and bam now you can steer

Well there is that question answered I always wondered why LFS appeared a bit umm jittery especially during pan's with the cameras. Now I know.

Now to find a way to try get it looking smoother.
Scawen... Can you up the physics engine to 120fps ? Please pretty please

Quote from JessesAE86 :

Is it just me or does the FZ5 feel like it has no power or RPM anymore..


that used to be my main drift car...... it can't do shat now its terrible

To me it feels like a well sorted chassis with a powerful engine able to put the power down. It doesn't feel powerful anymore because it's no longer out of control when you mash the gas.

Just grab a new one for piece of mind and warranty
The DFP has a fair bit of internal resistance when your trying to turn the wheel fast so it makes catching slides really hard. It's even worse if the force feedback is turned up.

When I had my DFP and still with my G25 I use only around 20% FFB which gives fairly light resistance when driving normally and then gives me good feed back as to what the car is doing rather then me fighting the resistance.

This is also a really good way to have the wheel setup if your desk is weak and wobbles

A big to the development team. If I ever get the chance to meet up with you guys i'm buying you a beer.

The latest updates in this patch in terms of realism is a step in the right direction and in the long run I know the sim racing community will thank you for at this point in time raising the bar that much further again.

I know many people are struggling with the cars and clutches now but what I have found is if take a step back and throw away some driving habits that have developed over the last couple of years then imagine i'm sitting down in my real car and driving away and racing everything works fine.

Tonight I did a 1 hour LX6 race at Fern Bay and had a grin on my face the entire time. I finished the race with my tyres nicely warm, plenty of fuel left over. My fuel usage was quite low compared to the others racing, we discovered I have an economocial driving style suited to endurance racing. And my clutch was as healthy as when i started off. The entire race I used my G25 with H pattern shifter and manual clutch.

IMO if your having troubles with killing your car and clutch in LFS your doing something very wrong. Just like in the real world you need to show a little mechanical sympathy or else you break stuff. In LFS you press shift + P to pit and fix your car. In the real world you dip into your bank account and buy new parts. When the repairs are free and take no time you tend to go a little crazy.

Something I can't quite put my finger on but I've found all the cars are much easier for me to drive now. By easier I don't mean easier but they are more true to real life then ever before. Something has defintely changed for the better.

Last edited by Crash Dummy, Sat, 22 Dec 2007 17:50.

No just can't do anything in single player mode. I can still quit LFS and control MP mode fine.

Better yet. Don't spin at all

Quote from JTbo :

Yes, clutch is not right, it is bit too strong at the moment for most of cars.

Look that RPM gauge of yours, you don't ever launch car at 3000rpm IRL, that is really rare, yet you launch it at 6000rpm in LFS, you have 1st gear that will get your speed to near 80kph in lfs, you don't have such IRL, probably more like 50 or even 40kph.

I did test clutch on XRT, I did take over 20 starts, similar to fast launch from traffic lights, accelerated to 80 kph, braked and did same again, non stop, hardly any clutch temp.

If you have problems with clutch, you are doing something wrong, or your setup is wrong, be prepared that in some day future clutch is not going to be as strong as it is now.

I believe this man holds the correct answer.
Most setups in live for speed are setup with excessively long 1st gear's. I downloaded a setup pack and most setups for most cars had 1st gear winding out to 80 - 100km/h that's insanity. Unless we are talking supercars I wouldn't expect to be able to do more then 60km/h in most cars 1st gear. Remember in the real world that gear must be short enough to allow you to accelerate from a stand still without having to slip the clutch excessively. It is when you have an extremely tall 1st gear that you burn clutches because you have to keep slipping it so much to get the car moving while remaining in the powerband.

Now this is a interesting little subject here.
Short 1st gear and a low rpm launch will not kill the clutch
If you have a tall 1st gear you can still get away without killing the clutch if your extremely violent with it and are able to make the car wheel spin, Suddenly all the force is transmitted to the wheels which become the component without enough grip to provide positive forward drive.
Worst case scenario and this happens often is if your tyres are extremely grippy and 1st gear is very tall it's possible that the power of the engine and the grip of the tyres can overcome the clamping force and grip of the clutch which means when you let the clutch out you get massive slip, heat and a ruined clutch.

Clutch heat isn't the end of the world. Set your car up accordingly to be realistic and drive accordingly to this new condition and I think you will be fine.

On a side note I have adjusted my setups and I now no longer have any clutch heat problems. I did around about 9 hours of racing yesterday and not once did I cook my clutch unless I tried to kill it. And i'm racing with a G25, full manual and H pattern shifter.

Alright definitely a bug
To produce. Use LFS version Y in demo mode. If you try to add AI cars while you have no car selected from the garage you will end up with a continuous Could not load AI 1's car message down the screen and can not remove AI 1 from the grid after this occurs either.

So right now my demo copy of LFS running on my laptop is unable to do anything in single player mode except give me errors. I can't hop in the car and drive or anything.

Okay I think my eyes deceived me. Looks like a Y on second inspection on the lappy. LOL

Sorry for the trouble.

Hello. I was using the test version X39 and used the auto updater to bring me up to version Y. Upon restarting LFS the first screen I am greated with reports version 0.5v instead of Y. Then after you go through the config process of player, controls and pick a car the correct version is reported.

I'll try repeat this bug on my laptop and see what happens.

Quote from [DUcK] :

So you're the n00b who brought drifting into LFS?

Yup. One of the offending parties :S

SORRY EVERYONE!!
If you can find the video it's called LFS Dift Volume 1.avi
Yes I'm pretty sure it has the spelling mistake. I've looked around but all mirrors of the video are dead. The video is from 2003. As far as we know the first ever LFS drift video.

You know your a long time LFS player when you remember racing online and there was not a single drifter.

Oh how I wish Elite76 and I never made that video.

Quote from wheel4hummer :

I agree, the locked differential should be removed. It doesn't really exist in RL.

Actually it does exist. You can get solid differential center's that remove the weak spider gears and provide full lock up.

Also locked diffs are sometimes used in circuit racing. In Australia the (i think) team Suzuki Swift GTI's used to run a locked diff on a front wheel drive car as there was no limited slip differential option AFAIK and it was faster then running an open diff.

Australian V8 Super cars also run a locked differential. That's Australia's biggest racing series!

As a member of Southern Cross Racing it's time for me to add my 2 cents.

I don't care :haha:
The tag's are different and has been said we are from different time zones so we'd be unlucky to bump into one another anyway.

Also the tags are different. Southern Cross Racing's team tag's use this format now.
scr.crashdummy

We have had people throw the scr tags around in the past though and chuck them on their names like the little free spirits they are but most Australian racers know who we are and who is on the team so when someone else is caught out trying to "be on the team" they get shot down real quick.

Keep in mind I am only one member of the team.

If I'm ever in a server and I see this happening I will put a stop to it.

Last edited by Crash Dummy, Fri, 21 Dec 2007 02:50.