The online racing simulator
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skstibi
S3 licensed
There is a thing to have. I have slicks on my car so why can't we have slicks on road cars in LFS too? Slickmod kinda sucks because it is very limited.
skstibi
S3 licensed
Quote from George Kuyumji :Our Bodies would need to be wired with the Game so LFS can send us Electro Shocks to the parts of our bodies who got hurt in the Crash. Resulting in real life pain and injuries.

You think thats Bull?

Lets talk about it again in the year 2020

I like the electro shock treatment It would really incourage less wrecking. IF somone DID wreck you they would be worried that you would get pissed off and wreck them back.

The only problem there would be that some people like me would have to really crank up the power to stop the laughing and start the pain.
skstibi
S3 licensed
This is really odd reading this stuff. My MOMO pedals had the problems for a long time. every thime I had the problem, I would un-plug and plug the pedlas back in and it was fixed for a while.
after about 15,000 races of wear they were fixed. now about 50,000 races they are absolutly perfect. The gas pedal is a bit loose now and it lost most of its texture but that is all. Heh, and after all that time I JUST found out that the pedals have that carpet grip device (which works great). illepall
I have a brand new set of pedals that have never been out of the bag. I don't even know if they work.
skstibi
S3 licensed
Quote from Blowtus :Imho, lfs has some real funkyness with the way tyre pressure relates to forces generated, causing sharp spikes when the pressure is up, temporarily overloading certain wheels - and it affects cars like the mrt and lx's the most. Run the lx6 with 11psi in the front (max grip) and then try with 20psi in the front, if anyone wants to see what I'm trying to talk about

The lx's are a lot easier to drive and just as quick with low power side locking on the dif - try 20/50 if you're struggling with it.

Thanks I currently have the diff set at 40/80.
I played around with the tire pressure and found myself hating low tire pressures and high pressure just slid. I am currently running 22psi on the front and 20 on the rear which seems to be good for me.

I think I will make a backup of the current settings and tweak the suspension again. Kinda fun hitting the rumble strips and watch the one wheel move (just holding contace the whole time) without really feeling the FF of it.
skstibi
S3 licensed
This would be so much better if it worked for the test patches. I just went to U and it was like going back to S1
skstibi
S3 licensed
I found that the only way I can currently drive these cars is with some extra weight (a passenger). I like how these cars currently handle, they just need a good setup that is made for your driving style.
I would give up about any car in LFS for the LX8. I just went against a FO8 with the LX6 and the FO8 pulled away slightly faster on the straights and beat my arse in the corners. From what I see, 2 more Cylinders and some slicks would give the FO8 a opponent and me months of fun . I don't care what you say about the downforce of the FO8, the LX8 would be a good opponent car.
skstibi
S3 licensed
Well, My replacement is ariving wednesday. I sent it out on monday. I am guessing Replacement takes about 8 business days on average.
skstibi
S3 licensed
Quote from SparkyDave :I am interested, what strenth FF were you using? and what lock setting?

Same question to all G25 users what FF strenth in profiler or windows setting and in game?

Dont get me started about DC motors I have built many including RC motors and they will happly run both ways, its only when running only 1 way for long periods of time that you get uneven cathode brush wear or comm stepping as mentioned by someone above


SD.

I was running 100% force with 900 degree lock.
I am still amazed at the fact that these brushless FF motors go through the abuse without really being damaged. I Don't think it was a motor that fried because the other motor would have worked and I would still have power lights on.
What happened was I was doing some racing I noticed some wierd feelings and sounds coming from the wheel on return to center. A few races later when I slid around a corner the thing died, I got smoke and everything went dead.
skstibi
S3 licensed
Mine just did that when returning the last 50* to center in either direction. Then the sucker just plain smoked. Waiting for the replacement to arrive
skstibi
S3 licensed
They got mine yesterday... I am just wondering how long for processing
skstibi
S3 licensed
Lets see here..
Windows XP home edidion SP2 (Hoping to upgrade soon)
AMD Athlon 64X2 4200 Dual core processor
nvidia 7900GTX 512MB video card
1GB DDR ram
Sound blaster live sound card
120GB hard drive.
54MBPS Wireless internet
Sony Disc drive that does everything.
A just plain DVD/CD reader drive
500WATT power supply
20.1 inch widescreen LCD Digital TFT monitor I think I got that right
Logitech G25 wheel (out for replacement)
skstibi
S3 licensed
heh, Thanks. Now I know what they mean. The stitching on my wheel was really nice. Too bad it will not be exactly the same on the new G25 I get.
skstibi
S3 licensed
Quote from tristancliffe :The clamping system is pretty much identical to the Momo and DFP systems.

HAH!!! I proved that wrong the day I got it. The momo clamps open up a full 10mm more than the G25. The momo's third clamp actually fit under my desk with perfect clearance, The shifter's third clamp I have to loosen the 4 screws to get it to clear (tighten them after I have it on).
The G25 does not have that third clamp at all on the wheel so it is ATTEMPTING to hang onto a 11mm lip.
skstibi
S3 licensed
Quote from Shotglass :i figure kegetys was right after all ... its a racing wheel

The drift was not the cause. I was racing like I usually do and just had the rear end sliding around and the wheel just plain quit and smoked. The wheel is best for racing. I have not really drifted with this wheel. I did a little but that is it.

wow, amazing. Logitech works fast. They said pickup would be tomorrow but they picked it up about 5 minutes ago
Last edited by skstibi, .
skstibi
S3 licensed
Quote from dawesdust_12 :Kev, I'm in the opposite boat there, the computer is where I do most of my things, and my parents completely support me in it, by helping me fun upgrades, loaning me money for my G25, and other things of that matter.

Lucky one. My parents do not support me playing games or working from my computer. If I want anything that costs more that a sweater, I have to pay for it. My mom and dad buy me SOME stuff. My dad buys some stuff for me but he is very selective of what. My dad and I race together so we kinda split the costs of the more expensive stuff.

Here is what I have paid for and that is my life:
Shifter kart, about $6000 NZD
My 1976 Yamaha 500 Dirtbike: $300+ $800 NZD to restore it (all work done by me)
Computer: $1500 USD Monitor $450USD
Radio control cars and trucks: adds up to $2000NZD
Soon to buy another car. (Looking at a 1996 Audi A4 Quatro)

I had to work my ass off to buy this stuff.

Some kids are spoiled rotten and some are like me who don't get much if anything, and some are right in the middle.
skstibi
S3 licensed
ok, now who said that nobody has had their G25 start to smoke? Mine just fried mid-drift Funny thing is that my tires were smoking and I smelled smoke so I thought that it was just in my head but when I saw the smoke coming out of my wheel and the thing shut off..... Well anyway it is shipping out tomorrow, they are gonna replace it. Well, I guess if they did any improvements I will get the better model. I am sooooo glad I did not do anything to it. heh.
skstibi
S3 licensed
I had to take the wheel off to fix a button and when I took that plastic cover off it had a sticker on the wheel with hand written numbers on it.

They were exactly like this (actual numbers):
007 057

087 03

Just curious what they would be.
skstibi
S3 licensed
Quote from M.Mos :You know that the stick position is determined by pots? Changing R-Gear layout wount be a easy job.

Yes, I now know that it is not going to be an easy job. It is not going to be the hardest either I am also going to try to make that shift clicking almost go away if not completely, yes, I know what I am doing. I have done much harder things.
skstibi
S3 licensed
I bought the G25 knowing that it might be defective. I have had many defective things... My first MOMO having a bad part in it where it NEVER went to center, Hard Drive catch on fire and melted my case, I had a R/C Niro engine that shattered a piston on first start (head was faulty), my sister's car had a faulty intake manifold, and the list could go on. My point is that not everything is perfect but some products have more problems than others. I woult type more but I don't see why I should repeat everyone else/

The only problem I have had so far is that it does not fit on my desk. My MOMO fit at full extension with the spacers off so I thought the G25 would fit. My desk is about 6CM thick. heh

Quote from kompa :Has anyone opened their shifter to mod it? Any pics/info out there?

I will open it soon because I can't stand the Shifter configuration. I have gotten used to driving my Volkswagen Passat and my Sisters GLI where the reverse is Down, to the LEFT, and UP. (exactly oposite from current) If you want pictures of other stuff Feel free to PM me.
Last edited by skstibi, .
skstibi
S3 licensed
Oh, Nevermind. Apparently my system is missing multiple files. Wierdest thing because I just re-installed Windows XP.
skstibi
S3 licensed
Quote from ajp71 :I've only seen this on As Nat but it should apply to all As variants that use the hairpin. When two cars go straight on into the auto reset zone they are both reset at the same point and get stuck into each other. Also it should be added that the reset point is right in the middle of the track and dangerous anyway.

I have gone sliding off there and reset into a car doing about 80KPH. It launched into a few more cars and caused a huge pileup. The race had to be re-started. That Reset point should be moved infront of the wall of tires.
skstibi
S3 licensed
awww, darn. I am now Getting a run Time error every time I hit the Edit button. I have no clue why. Help
skstibi
S3 licensed
I have:
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200 Processor
GeForce 7900GTX
Creative sound Blaster Sound card
Windows XP SP2
1GB DDR. (normally have 1.5GB)

With that, I am running a steady 140FPS (with other cars) and the lowest it drops to is 85FPS (auto-X)
I have not had the Frame rate drop or gain at all from U20-U28. (got new system at U20)
skstibi
S3 licensed
I installed U28 yesterday and today when I played it, my system went Blue Screen a couple times. I Tried U20 for a while and did not do it.

EDIT: Nope. Just happened again. Hard drive kept shutting off (failing I guess) I will never buy a Maxtor again, WD went on my S*** list a while ago. Well, I'm going to have to buy a Seagate and see if it happens again.
Last edited by skstibi, .
skstibi
S3 licensed
Yeah. The finger would be nice with all these wreckers. Hand signals would be nice because some people block messages so Pressing F1 (Making pit stop this lap) does not get their attention but a Hand moving up from the car would.

lol, a get out of the car and puntch the living daylights out of the driver would be funny What I do with rammers is either BAN them if I have admin rights or go back out and play target practice with their rear bumper until they leave. (just annoy the heck out of them until they leave but not wrecking them)
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG