The online racing simulator
Searching in All forums
(143 results)
madbikes
S3 licensed
Has to be B's fault. B Forcefully attempted to squeez in when A already got the line. B Should have find elsewhere to pass.
madbikes
S3 licensed
I heard about LFS a long time ago, but did start playing it until not long ago. Here's how I started:

I used to play Racer since it's free and I wanted to try something besides Gran Turismo. I stopped playing after 0.5.0 because my computer couldn't play it back then. Even I got another computer that can run it some time later, I eventually quit because the downloadable content aren't so good (missing textures in a track even it's completed, for example) and its "collision detection" is very bad (drive into a wrong place will send the car up in the air in unrealistic means). Around that time, I heard of LFS. It was still S1 back then, but my computer isn't good enough to play once again. I was really amused by the video "South City Robbery" (you guys may remember that video). South city Cab Co., which is a team that still exist, was part of the cast.

I get bored with GT4 pretty quickly as there are too many events to complete and the "driving mission" is driving me nuts (can do any of them except the last one). I soon rediscovered LFS. Spent some time on the demo and really liked it. Then I decided to get S2 and never regret it. I started at about Patch X when you can get fault start.
madbikes
S3 licensed
I also tried the normal direction and they don't know how to exit the chichane. They just ram the wall on their own. After race ends, they know how to get back to pits, but two AI don't know their way in the pits and cause two of them just exit the pit and just stayed there.
madbikes
S3 licensed
I don't think this has been reported yet.

I was racing with 5 AI in X36 on SO Classic Reverse for 6 laps (all XFG). It doesn't look like the AI takes bump into account that they lose control at the chichane. All AI cannot find a way to go back to their line and end up burning their clutch at the end of the chichane (all 5 AI lined up nicely). This is highly repeatable.
Last edited by madbikes, . Reason : missing detail
madbikes
S3 licensed
So far I can drive a XFG in BL1 with X30 patch in 1:35:36, which is about half a second slower than my PB on LFS World. I think it's possible to do high 29 seconds for first split since the first chichane is so much flatter now (no more flips there, that's a nice thing). The right hander plus the chichane after the long straight is tricky since you can't take it the way we used to, which will make you slower than you were. The last chichane now is less prone to flips. The shift point on the XFG is about slightly before 8250rpm, so minor gear ratio adjustment may be needed. Best of all, it's alot less prone to lock the wheels in the new BL1.

I wonder if there's a need to change the XFG setups now.
Last edited by madbikes, . Reason : missing detail
madbikes
S3 licensed
I'm sorry if I'm not on the topic.

I have a hard time to reduce clutch temp (except driving in KY oval) since I'm driving with keyboard. Setting the button rate to the max possible still doesn't allow me to do the footwork at a reasonable level (throttle can't go down faster than I want). Tried with autoshift, but the downshift point is earlier compare to the other X versions. So I can't blip throttle to prevent wheel lock. Don't worry though, I'll eventually get a G25 or similar wheel (I planed to get one anyway).

There's only two problems for me:

Speedometer: at some point it's true that we don't really need one. BUT, most of the cars has no pit limiter. I'm not a fan of the analog speedo in the game since it's a little difficult to read. Although FBM has digital speedo, I can't even see how fast I'm going at all (important for pits at least).

Rev limiter: we all know most cars do have a rev limiter. It's supposed to kick in a bit after redline instead of before it.

That's about it. I know I have to somehow live with it.
madbikes
S3 licensed
Quote from SoSoDeF :Try playing around with an option called "Button Control Rate" under the controls section in the options

Still not fast enough even I cranked it to max. It seems like the downshift point is raised in the new patch that I couldn't blip throttle whenever I downshift.
madbikes
S3 licensed
Quote from james12s :no a dfp or like is still ok with auto clutch

Because you have a wheel?
Reduce clutch slip with keyboard
madbikes
S3 licensed
With the new patch, it seems like getting a G25 is the only way to go (which I will save up enough for one). I'm still using keyboard with mouse steer. Is there any way to make the throttle decrease faster than it is now to modulate my shifts better?
madbikes
S3 licensed
You should go drag racing in RL man. My reaction time can't beat you.
madbikes
S3 licensed
wow... there's no way for me to get fast on this one lol. I get 41 seconds
madbikes
S3 licensed
The strangest part is why they don't warn the driver's with the oil flag.
madbikes
S3 licensed
I drove past your face so I could make friends.

This is strange...
madbikes
S3 licensed
Nice editing and good action. 10/10
madbikes
S3 licensed
Does the desert and snow mod change the traction of the road?
madbikes
S3 licensed
I'd say it's racing incident.

It's kind of hard to tell, but that chichane is tricky (gotta know the right line). It's sensible that B wants to get his position back, but both A and B didn't want to let go. So it's not uncommon that they fight for it that way (not recommend).
madbikes
S3 licensed
Quote from tristancliffe :
By endlink mount, do you mean the bit that attached the coilover to the wheel upright?

The endlink mount is the black tab that below the spring seat of the front coilover. One side of the endlink goes there and the other end goes to the front sway bar. I notice it can control body roll since I find the car lean more when making right turns and use that to correct the problem. But would like to get a better understanding of what it does.

I also heard if you lower the car too much, it'll affect the roll-center especially vehicles with double A-arm (my car sure isn't one since there's only one lower arm on each side). In my case, I can get it to be at whatever ride height without affecting it too much or it's the opposite?
madbikes
S3 licensed
I would say Gran Turismo for me. It was really a challenge to complete to I-A and Super license back then. Virtua Racing is the first game that makes me wonder about physics engine because the physics in Sega Genesis and Arcade are very very different.
madbikes
S3 licensed
I would like to set the static height through the adjustable front lower mount, but the hole was enlarged 1/8 inch too big. I didn't want to go through the trouble of setting it right, so I just turn the spring perch/seat up to my desired height.

The manufacture tech support also states that changing the preload (by moving the front spring perch/seat up) will also change front damper rebound rate. Since the motion ratio is constant, it doesn't change the rebound rate, right?

I have the front camber set at -1 degree (I think that's the most negative front camber recommended by Toyota). The rear is a torsion beam, so it's stuck at -1.5 degrees. I don't see any kind of bad camber wear (probably my tire is too hard lol. I use Michelin MXV4 Plus). The current setting is sufficient for me at the moment. Since I have cracked front bump stops (Probably the road is crappy enough that I hit the bump stop without knowing it did), I may change the front camber. If I change the front camber to -1.5 degrees, wouldn't the car start to be less responsive? Will it be not suitable for frequent freeway driving (let's say 300+miles in a day under hot weather)?

Also, what's the true function of the endlink mount? It's adjustable and I know it'll affect body roll if they aren't in about the same location for sure. What else can it affect?
Definition of preload? Need input from suspension gurus
madbikes
S3 licensed
My car needed new shocks about five months ago. Fortunately, there's group buy on a coilover system that I can get into. I love the increased performance. Probably the dampers aren't stiff enough for frequent track use, but enough for me to have fun for spirited driving. I find the coilover pretty streetable, which is nice.

Enough of my intro. I have a question regarding preload. Before that, let me show you guys a few pics (I guess it may help, but couldn't hurt)




http://lh4.google.com/image/vi ... xyNeCEw/s800/P6021372.jpg

As you can see, the fronts has a pillowball top mount (adjusts camber), adjustable endlink mount (not real sure what's the true function of it) and adjustable lower mount (ride height for the most part). The rear is only ride height adjustable. All shocks have adjustable damping (36 levels). Bump and rebound are adjusted simultaneously.

The car lose about half of its available stroke when it's on the ground. The question is if I decide to make minor ride height change (I guess within half an inch, may be a bit more) by turning the spring seat/perch, do I increase preload? If I change the rear ride height, will that increase spring preload at the same time? I talked to the manufacturer's tech support. They said if I change the ride height through the front spring seat instead of the lower mount, I'm changing preload. They also say changing the rear ride height in any means will change preload also. I don't think that's right since I still have plenty of travel left before extra pressure can be put on the springs for the front, and I can't put extra pressure for the rear spring unless I go as high as it can go. What's the true answer?

Note: The manufacture default for the front spring location is where the spring has no room to move up and down easily without putting tension to it, just like the pic for the fronts before they go on the car. The rear has no default location. The stock top cap is used for the rear coilover as part of the assembly.
Last edited by madbikes, . Reason : pressed wrong button
madbikes
S3 licensed
Looks promising. Can't wait until it's officially done.
madbikes
S3 licensed
What is the server name? It doesn't look like I can find the server.
madbikes
S3 licensed
mmm... The first Need For Speed is pretty much the first rather realistic car racing game I ever played. I played some car racing games around the 1st Pentium era as well like Screamer (this one probably not) and this one rally game that I couldn't remember the name. I stick on pretty much racing sims since Gran Turismo.

Does anyone remember the name of a single-seater car racing game around the Sega Genisis era? I forgot the name of it, but that one really made me wonder about physics engine. I tried to play it on Genesis and its physics engine is way different compare to arcade version.
madbikes
S3 licensed
Quote from FC3SCorey :1.07 Gb

I'm about the same as you.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG