Thanks. I wanted to post a couple up with doing two leagues this season - they weren't listed.

Can anyone remember what the site is please? I remember seeing it but can't remember the name. I have some additions.

Dave

You really ARE an angry angel aren't you?
I've found it to be a network (BT) issue;

Results for exchange: Whitehaven
Congestion status on this exchange is RED.

Your telephone line has been identified as being on a congested exchange. If you are receiving varying speeds between 400kbs - 2000kbs at different times of the day this is likely to be a result of the congestion issue.

A provisional date of Feb 16, 2007 has been set for upgrading this exchange.

I'm not offended, I think its sad you had to post that really.

Thanks, looks like a few people may be affected.
I really don't think it is a software issue, reinstalling won't solve it.

Like I say, other online games are fine, just LFS. That would not point to my ISP.

Guys, over the last maybe 3 days my LFS has had trouble connecting.

Symtoms are; VERY slow server update - like 1 per second. When I join a server chances are "Didn't receive track info" and other failures like that. I've just managed to join a server only for me to lag out 4 times - I gave up.

I'm not running anything in the background. I've also checked out BF2 online and it works fine and offline games are fine - it is ONLY with LFS.

Has anyone else seen his? It will be a problem for the first OLFSL race tomorrow!!!

I can't download any of the 3 files...?

That's great, thanks.

I'm sure the server does not have the S flag set but I *HAVE* seen me sitting in the game waiting for the race to start and it showed the track changing as the admin set it. Is this as you describe above and he was using the commands?

Quote from amp88 :

http://en.lfsmanual.net/wiki/Hosting#Host_commands

Thanks - I just want to confirm that this applies to ie. my teams server I connect to as a normal race? At what point to I enter the password?

I thought however that I could change the options (cars, tracks, etc) through the graphical interface like i can in single player?

D.

Guys, I'm looking for instructions on server admin. I'd hoped it might be a sticky or at least be a section in the LFS Manual - you know the kind of thing; what you can do as a server admin etc....



Dave

Hmm... very ... "economical"

You really want something like I've got;




And the Caterham is hired for track use;



Dave

The degrees of freedom you have are; X, Y, Z, Roll, Pitch, Yaw. The one the patch may not cover in all probability is ROLL....?

I use the TrackIR without the 5-DOF mod, does the 5-DOF mod not work with the LFS latest patch? If it does I'll give it a go.

I'll put money on the forces required to press the pedals & turn the weel on the ECCUI is incredibly close to those required on a racing car, with the force feedback being equally accurate.

Yes they are very expensive - but it is realistic and thats what was mentioned.

"The Universal MC2 Racing Wheel is simply the most realistic racing wheel on the market" - Double LOL!!!!!!!!

They've obviously not seen these then;
http://ecci6000.com/6000_combo_01.htm




(IMG tags aren't working sorry)

Well by putting a demo on PCZone's cover disc I'd call that advertising

PC Zone magazine has had it on the cover disc at least once, maybe twice. I have played it before but the only 'track' I found was the car park (maybe other tracks were there in the demo but the interface must have been hiding it as it wasn't obvious - and that's a big fault with a demo version!!!).

I eventually got into LFS after someone mentioned it on another forum while I was discussing GTR2. I played the demo and bought the S2 full licence within 2 days.

I don't recall any glossy adverts anywhere so if I've seen them they've certainly not stuck in my mind.

Dave

Last edited by horrgakx, Wed 13 Dec 2006, 10:17.

Not sure, I've never seen a list of changes.

Quote from mrodgers :

Heck, I hardly ever downshift while braking when driving on the road

I think I know what you mean, on the road you actually don't come down through the gears, you use foot braking while in the gear you're in until you need to change again. A direct quote from the "Roadcraft Police Drivers Handbook"; "Be in the correct gear for every road speed and traffic situation".

Quote from Jertje :

Reading all this reminds me of just how badly I want my own car. Bloody education and the amount of money it costs to study abroad...

Don't be in a rush my friend, there's plenty of time in life

Quote from Boris Lozac :

So, this technique, throttle blip/heel and toe is basically practical and good for the car in every day driving, in your basic road car?

Erm, no. It is difficult this one - officially heel & toe is NOT good practice for the road, but match-rev changes ARE. Nobody on here should tell you to heel & toe on the road it is even if they use it (and I do!), it is track only. Officially (speaking from the UK) the recommended, best and safer way is the "Roadcraft" way (this is the police drivers handbook) - this is tought by the Institute of Motorists and ROSPA etc...

Okay - the reasons. Well, "proper", controlled, safe road driving is keeping the car under control at all times and crossing your foot over the brake and accelerator pedal is not recommended road driving practice. However you can match the revs happily on down change because you don't have to cross your feet, you can 'normally' change gear with this tecnique.

Of course exactly what you do on the road is up to you. This discussion is for track driving I'd recommend getting further driver training after you pass your road test - after all, you're shown "how to pass the test", NOT how to drive a car!! Of course you'll benefit from on-track tuition too, I've given instruction both on the road and on many UK circuits - keep your road and track driving seperated.


Dave

Boris - you can practice in your own car, and at first you don't have to brake. Try this;

Along a nice straight road, perhaps 40mph in 3rd gear. You're going to leave the brake pedal alone for the moment, just practice on the principal.

1) Now, try changing to 2nd as "normal", your right leg doing nothing. You'll notice the car jerking when you release the clutch in 2nd, this is because the gearbox winds the engine up due to the higher ratio between 2nd & 3rd. Try that a few times, listen to the engine note/pitch when you change.

2) Do the same as above, nice and slowly, however this time when you press the clutch in and change to 2nd, squeeze the accelerator pedal gently and bring the engine revs up to match where they would be in 2nd gear. You'll notice now that you're brought the engine revs up to meet 2nd gear instead of the car doing it for you.

This is called a "match rev gear change" and is kinder to the transmission/driveshafts etc.

3) An advanced way of doing this is to be braking with your right foot and using your heel to blip the accelerator. This is called "Heel & Toeing". Don't try this yet, possibly get someone to show you. And never try it on a public road untill you get proficient.

4) Just for completeness, you don't need to read this, and it generally isn't done on a road car, there is also "double de-clutching". Its similar to number 2 above and is intended to change down in vehicles without syncromeshes between the gears. The reason you can actually change gear in a car the 'normal' way is due to a syncromesh. My dad learned to drive army trucks that didn't have these syncro's. So you have to blip the clutch while changing down in order to spin up the shafts in the gearbox so that the gears meshed properly. If you can't do match-rev changes yet don't even consider this one, it isn't really used these days. However I was fortunate to learn this tecnique as I learned to drive and so all the above comes very naturally to me and I use mixtures of all these on the road and track depending on the circumstances.

Dave

Well said. It is more of a problem for rear wheel drive cars where locking the rear wheels on the approach to a corner is the last thing you want to do

I think there are two issues here, maybe not so much your graphics card. I've been in the industry a long time and first and most important is your system memory. 512k will barely run WinXP, never mind a game on top.

As an example I play a lot of Battlefield 2. I had 1Gb of system RAM and the game was choppy. I doubled it to 2Gb and the problem went away, the WHOLE system is much better both on the desktop and in games. 512k is ludicrous these days.

I would whole-heartedly upgrade your memory FIRST. 1Gb is an absolute minimum, 2Gb is recommended despite what anyone says. You'll not regret it.


Dave

Well, they're pretty good. I had a bit of a "wow" moment recently when I put the BF1 sideways into a corner. It stopped 90deg to the track and I thought I saw a bit of sideways "wobble" as the tyres were stressed so I played back the replay in slow motion and had a really good camera view of the car. I was amazed to see the flex in the sidewalls as the car stopped - very much like the real thing, wobbling it sideways.

You can see the tyre flex on normal cars if you look at the wheels-only view and steer hard left/right, especially coming from grass to tarmac with some lock.

Dave

Last edited by horrgakx, Mon 4 Dec 2006, 07:54.

Thanks, I renamed it.