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Tyres - What To Buy?
(65 posts, started )
My tires cost $300 USD per set and last 6 days. They're good for about 1.5G laterally.



My Toyota Tercel (1.5L 4-cyl, 82HP, 2000 lbs dry) had some cheap ($200 USD per set), skinny (145/80/13) all-season tires that were fine even in the snow. I think paying a lot for high perf tires on a commuter car is ridiculous.
I have a VW polo and a Honda S2000. With the S2000, obviously, i drive more spirited. On neither of both cars, i fit "high performance" tyres. I have Bridgestone Potenza on the Honda, and some Michelin on the Polo. There would have been a few tyres from the same manufacturer (Bridgestone/Michelin) which would have cost double of what mine did cost. No need to waste money there (unless i plan on going to the track, but even there, i wouldn't spend double, just for a little more grip).

I still wouldn't buy *insert dirt cheap tyre brand here* tyres for either car however. And that was my point.

And now i'll shut up.
Quote from Luke.S :Premium tyres will always be better than budget eco tyres.

Thats why even though my parents both have kias they both get decent tyres. My dad has some decent hankook tyres on his and some decent kumho tyres on my mum's car

Hankooks and Kumhos are NOT a premium tyre. There absolutely terrible!
#29 - Jakg
Quote from ajp71 :On a serious side note given what Tristan has mentioned it is worth going and finding an empty strip of road and finding out just how quickly you can stop from speed even on shitty tyres, you'll be amazed at just how quickly a modern road car can stop.

Yes I have done that - and it can stop quite quick. That doesn't, however, excuse the fact that I will need new tyres soon and that the ones I have are awful in the wet.
Quote from Dajmin :How about old school folks like me who don't have wussy driving aids like ABS? Do I benefit more from a better quality tyre?

Also, my car doesn't have any ABS - however I have tested my car on emergency stops just to get a feel for actually braking harshly and think I've sort of understood the pressure needed (although saying that the pedal goes to the floor after about 3 goes...)

Quote from Forbin :I think paying a lot for high perf tires on a commuter car is ridiculous.

Snap - this thread is not about tyre porn. The cheapest I can get is £39, whereas £2 more gets me some Toyos or Kumhos. Another £3 gets me Michelins - I was looking to spend under £50 tbh. I was just wondering which was best for what.





Option number 2 (which somehow I totally overlooked the first time) is to fit the rears to the fronts and vice versa - But that way I get "Dario Furio" tyres which sound cheap as hell...
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(Dajmin) DELETED by Dajmin : Typo, misread
Quote from tristancliffe :It's a double edged sword - good tyres give you more grip in an accident/emergency (unless the accident/emergency is caused by tyre failure ), but it also means that you are more likely to be going faster when the accident/emergency occurs.

the first is not in the driver's control, it is determined by the tyres.

the second, is. the driver is responsible to keep the car under control. if they drive too fast that is not the tyres' problem. it's the driver's.

in short it is not a double edged sword.

you are buying the quality of contact with the road. get good tyres.
Quote from Jakg :Snap - this thread is not about tyre porn. The cheapest I can get is £39, whereas £2 more gets me some Toyos or Kumhos. Another £3 gets me Michelins - I was looking to spend under £50 tbh. I was just wondering which was best for what.

In the case of how cheap tires are for you guys then, get the better tires. In my case, the cheap tires were $55 and the next better tire I had available at the place of purchase was $150. That's quite a difference when for normal driving, the benefit would only be lower noise level coming from the tires.

Though the really really cheap option was the same factory Continental junk that I had, which were around $45 and the snow performance was a factor (along with they were extremely noisy.)
Quote :Apparently they do drop off quite suddenly and can catch you unawares, according to a couple of mates who've ended up in ditches using them...

I found the opposite, they go scrub-squeal-screech instead of grip-screech-tree so are quite predictable as they scream their head off to let you know you're being a knob.

Kumhos are fine btw, I have KH17s on my Aygo and they impress me more than the P6000s as they don't squeal so easy. However, I don't know how much warning you get before they lose grip.
Just don't get the el cheapo kwik fit own brand things will you, as i foolishly put a set on the back of my roadster and it drives like the back end is on ball bearings, especially in the rain.

It had p6000s on the back before, and they were epic, especially in the rain, and they were bald!
Quote from Dajmin :How about old school folks like me who don't have wussy driving aids like ABS? Do I benefit more from a better quality tyre?

Pff, I bet you have power steering and assisted brakes though. Wuss

Why are tyres so expensive in the UK? I can get odd-sized (155/60 R12) Continental GTs for €35 each, fitted and balanced over here I wouldn't go putting el-cheapo tyres on, when there's so little of a price difference between the good brands and the dodgy ones. Remoulds range from €25 to €30, I'd gladly pay the extra fiver to know there's an extra bit of rubber there to stop me in an emergency

The Yaris-mobile has cheap-ish tyres on at the moment (the name is in chinese on the tyre...), but they still have lovely grip available, and no matter how hard I push it, they never seem to wear. The only problem is driving in the rain, really. Any hint of a spirited take off and it'll wheelspin up until 4th There's also very little warning of when they're going to lose grip in the dry, one moment it's there, and the next you're quickly creeping to the left hand verge
Quote from dougie-lampkin :Pff, I bet you have power steering and assisted brakes though. Wuss

Why are tyres so expensive in the UK? I can get odd-sized (155/60 R12) Continental GTs for €35 each, fitted and balanced over here I wouldn't go putting el-cheapo tyres on, when there's so little of a price difference between the good brands and the dodgy ones. Remoulds range from €25 to €30, I'd gladly pay the extra fiver to know there's an extra bit of rubber there to stop me in an emergency

The Yaris-mobile has cheap-ish tyres on at the moment (the name is in chinese on the tyre...), but they still have lovely grip available, and no matter how hard I push it, they never seem to wear. The only problem is driving in the rain, really. Any hint of a spirited take off and it'll wheelspin up until 4th There's also very little warning of when they're going to lose grip in the dry, one moment it's there, and the next you're quickly creeping to the left hand verge

something called VAT.
Quote from Luke.S :something called VAT.

VAT in ireland is something crazy like 20% iirc.
Quote from Forbin :They're good for about 1.5G laterally.

Lateral g's on a motorcycle? What did I miss here
#40 - senn
i dunno what the Toyo Proxes CF1 is, no info on the toyo mainpage? i run 205/50/R15 Proxes 4 on my AW11 mr2 on the street, they last about 25,000 km with some skidpan days and tired suspension (soon to be rectified)
Road noise is good, its an old car, doesn't have much deadening, and i don't have a working stereo in it
i don't know if the CF1's are a step up or down?
another tip
Don't run Comp R's on the street, 1000km for a set of tyres is bad.

peace out.

Found it, on the UK Toyo page, looks like entry level proxes..
Quote from RasmusL :Lateral g's on a motorcycle? What did I miss here

Lean Angle = angle from the contact patch to center of gravity, relative to the normal
Gravity = force of gravity in G's
Lateral G = Gravity * tan(Lean Angle)

Simple. It applies to all vehicles with two tandem wheels, including bicycles.
Quote from Forbin :Lean Angle = angle from the contact patch to center of gravity, relative to the normal
Gravity = force of gravity in G's
Lateral G = Gravity * tan(Lean Angle)

Simple. It applies to all vehicles with two tandem wheels, including bicycles.

Huh, well nice to learn something I actually thought that the lean completely cancelled the lateral g-forces.
How do you think a bike turns?

Gravity wants to make the bike fall over and the lateral force at the tire wants to make the bike flip over. Per that formula, these forces cancel each other out at any particular lean angle so that lean angle remains constant.

The way you get a bike to change its lean angle is by manipulating this relationship.

/threadjack
Quote from Luke.S :something called VAT.

Our VAT is higher than yours, 21.5%

BTW, there's no such thing as "southern Ireland". It's the North, or just Ireland
Quote from dougie-lampkin :our vat is higher than yours, 21.5%

Btw, there's no such thing as "southern ireland". It's the north, or just ireland

^^
Quote from dougie-lampkin :
Why are tyres so expensive in the UK? I can get odd-sized (155/60 R12) Continental GTs for €35 each

You're looking at tiny tyres though.

Quote from Jakg :
Snap - this thread is not about tyre porn. The cheapest I can get is £39, whereas £2 more gets me some Toyos or Kumhos. Another £3 gets me Michelins - I was looking to spend under £50 tbh. I was just wondering which was best for what.

If you want cheap, safe tyres then part worns (not remoulds) may be the way to go, there's a tyre depot near me that does them for £15 a tyre fitted and normally they're branded tyres with around 8mm of tread left, taken off on the continent either when they fail their much stricter tests or when they change to winter tyres. You'll be better off on decent worn tyres than cheap rubbish, but there's nothing wrong with cheap rubbish unless you need to drive it fast in all conditions.
Quote from ajp71 :You're looking at tiny tyres though.



If you want cheap, safe tyres then part worns (not remoulds) may be the way to go, there's a tyre depot near me that does them for £15 a tyre fitted and normally they're branded tyres with around 8mm of tread left, taken off on the continent either when they fail their much stricter tests or when they change to winter tyres. You'll be better off on decent worn tyres than cheap rubbish, but there's nothing wrong with cheap rubbish unless you need to drive it fast in all conditions.

cheap tyres are grand - they do the job required but normally their only used a cheap fix for passing an mot, or a rarly used shopping cart and car dealers.

for 50 quid you can get kuhmo's ive used them quite a bit ( as i get them for half nothing ) and they are very good for the price.
how about... you spend less on smokes, booze, coffee, fast food

... and spend those additional 100euros or whatever, once a year, to buy better rubber.

how's it sound?

Tyres - What To Buy?
(65 posts, started )
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