The EU prevents that because of open borders and a lack of police cooperation from migrant countries. The host country can do background checks and come up clear because the records they have access to says they have a clean record. But then it'll materialise later (when the migrant country faxes over the information) that they had a record a mile long and of course, again thanks to the EU open borders, the host nation cannot send them back because they are legally within their rights to return.
There are criminals in any country otherwise there would be no need for the Police, but crime will spike slightly after a new wave if migrants so the papers try to make it sound like it is all down to migrants. They won't pick up on the fact that a lot of that crime is the natives attacking the migrants because "they are all a bunch of thieving scum".
The EU does make it easy to get away with crimes in another country if you're from one with poor records which is why so many organised criminals will start to hit up other countries, go nuts then go home again.
Personally, I have no problem with migrants, I've worked with a fair few and they've all been a right laugh. I actually got a taste of being a Pole in the UK once because I was temping for an agency in-between years at uni.
I couldn't hear shit on the factory floor so gave up trying to speak, then one day I sliced my thumb open, so showed it to my super because I was bleeding and was in a food factory (Bakkavor, making garlic bread for the big UK supermarkets, if you're interested). He took me to the floor manager who said "I'm not ruining the health and safety record (at this point they had gone 200ish days without an accident) for a ****ing Pole, give him a glove to wear and send him back to work."
I quit doing temp work and haven't touched garlic bread since.
Could be the pads have worn out. They are a bit leggy now, the problem is I can't remember what it was like to ride when they were good. Will have to take a poke around in the day light.
Quite possible, as it isn't the most expensive bike in the world. Fancy footing me a few bob to buy a new one? Oh no wait, our gov't seized all of your UK assets. Sucks to be you.
The front brakes are cable operated discs, so utterly shit, the force you need to get them to work is murder. The rears are blocks, so naturally lock up all of the time.
Mine had quick shifting, but years of neglect has caused it to slow down quite a bit. I now have to select a gear way before I need it. May have to scrap it and buy a new one.
Your bike is quite nice. Want to trade? 
With diesel at 136.9p a litre, I cracked out my old bike. Touch of WD40 on the moving parts and away she went. Though to be fair, I'm not likely to give up compression ignition to get around as it is just too damn far and I don't fancy arriving at my destination sweating like a fatty who just walked up a stair case. But now I go for a bike ride to wind down, rather than tearing around the Moors.
Last edited by P5YcHoM4N, .
I used to live in a high crime neighbourhood (was high crime before Eastern Euros moved in, it was even higher after). So to make sure it didn't happen to me, the first car I got I wired in a simple kill switch, which in hindsight, was shit, because if the thief knocked off the steering column, it'd be obvious what I did.
But it would stop someone who broke into the house, stole the keys then tried to steal the vehicle (common crime round there because the art of stealing a vehicle without the keys was a dead art by the early 00's).
But it would stop someone who broke into the house, stole the keys then tried to steal the vehicle (common crime round there because the art of stealing a vehicle without the keys was a dead art by the early 00's).
And that is why I always install a hidden kill switch. There are many ways to do it and I have two. One cuts the power to the starter motor and one cuts the circuit from the ignition barrel (my fuel pump isn't electrically operated, so can't kill that with a switch).
When I park up I'll flick them both to off and lock up as normal. If anyone does steal my vehicle it'll have to be on a flat bed, or they really worked for it, in which case they can have it as a reward for sticking with it.
I'd love to wire in an immobiliser keypad like you get in a Pug 406. They are so cool.
When I park up I'll flick them both to off and lock up as normal. If anyone does steal my vehicle it'll have to be on a flat bed, or they really worked for it, in which case they can have it as a reward for sticking with it.
I'd love to wire in an immobiliser keypad like you get in a Pug 406. They are so cool.
Okay, it looks similar, but the new McLaren looks quite Ferrariish, doesn't mean they've copied... oh wait, hang on...
The big issue you'll have is whoever their designer is no doubt has big lawyers who make more money an hour than you do in a month. So even if you did take it to court, they will make it too expensive for you to fight them.
The big issue you'll have is whoever their designer is no doubt has big lawyers who make more money an hour than you do in a month. So even if you did take it to court, they will make it too expensive for you to fight them.
It is all about being able to drive it like I stole it to then do a cross country drive without getting out with back ache. Once you start chavving up a car (lower, bigger wheels), long distance drivers are unforgiving. I've driven maybe three cars that have had suspension mods that I could cover over 100 miles in without having a ruined arse/spine.
I've covered over 500 miles (Hartoft to Rochester to Hartoft) in one sitting, only stopping for fuel and to drop off some crap, in my little van. Other than having tired eyes and dying for a cuppa coffee, I was still quite fresh. I could only do ~40 miles in a slightly chavved Pug207 before I wanted to stop and get out. Though to be fair even stock I've only managed ~60 miles before wanted to get out of a 207. Not the nicest drive in the world.
I think it means, you drive a van, you have no opinion.
Not off the bat, no. But 95% of people who put on big wheels and lowering springs do it for looks, no other reason. So the vehicle crashes around on anything but the smoothest of roads. And that is the problem. On a track, it'll be quite good (assuming it was done right and not a half arsed job), but you want the softest suspension you can get away with. You make up for the body roll with an ARB.
Sure, I drive a van, but I've thrown more cars around race tracks and B-Roads than you've had girlfriends. And it has ranged from chavved up motors (I've been down that road, so I've learnt from my mistakes), to luxo barges to sports cars.
There are many on here better equiped to pass judgement than I am, but seriously, if you're buying a Corsa B (for insurance reasons), do you really think top dollar was paid on the suspension to improve the handling based on the roads around you or a set of eBay special one size fits all?
I hope you don't have an open cone, otherwise enjoy your heat soak.
Your car doesn't look too bad from that angle, but I suspect you have massive alloys and lower springs and the rest of the standard inventory to ruin handling.
Your car doesn't look too bad from that angle, but I suspect you have massive alloys and lower springs and the rest of the standard inventory to ruin handling.
I was aware it was sarcasm, but as it was the 3rd time you used it I felt it prudent to comment to make sure some of the children don't take it as gospel.
The vast majority of factory wings/splitters generate more drag than they do down force, as they are aesthetic items. And barely make a difference to the lift the cars aero package is designed to generate.
And lets not forget that any down force would only kick in at high speeds, so you'll never notice the difference in the bendy bits. But enjoy a blunted top end and higher fuel usage compared to an identical but non-winged vehicle.
Haha, always the case. I had to rebuild the back end of my van because the small spot of rust was inaccessible, but unless it was fixed I'd never pass MOT.
I've noticed something similar when looking at something more comfortable than Vanessa. A 2.5TD (BMW unit, if I recall the same one Jakg's Rover rocks) Vauxhall Omega, auto full spec would cost me £1,600 to insure. BMW 5 series with the same motor, auto full spec £1,500, yet a Range Rover with the exact same engine, auto full spec list would only cost ~£800 a year. So naturally I am going to pick up a P38.
The guy who posted it is an MOT tester so he is privvy to changes before they come into force.
The airbag light is already in the MoT Test, so doesn't need to be included again, unless they are going to outlaw disabling airbags.
A lot of the new changes are head scratchers because they are hard to enforce. And I suspect the chipping thing comes from pressure from manufactures and/or insurance. But I fail to see how they can detect it without buying so stupidly expensive equipment.
I am unsure how they expect MOTers to test for it. But here is a quick list of the changes (copy pasta from another forum, so there are some comments in the list):
2011 VOSA changes to MOT
Still 13 months away until these new regulations come into force, but some interesting changes. From MOT from December 2011, the below changes will come into force, which will be very bad news for some.
* HID lights – Specifically those aftermarket kits that give the very bright headlight beams. Any cars found with these kits will be an automatic MOT failure. Testers are able to easily spot the difference between HID kits, and manufacturer fitted Xenon’s. Easy to spot as Xenon cars have suspension level sensors, in car beam adjuster, and usually headlight washers.
* Chipped ECU’s - Unsure of just how / if this one will realistically be enforced, but any cars with chipped ECU’s will in theory be an MOT failure. I can only assume VOSA have found an easy way of checking ECU software through the cars OBD port (diagnostic plug).
* Wiring harness – The general condition of he wiring harness will be checked to make sure there is no rubbing or chaffing, and that the harnesses are in generally good condition. If unsecure, or damaged again MOT failure.
* Airbag warning lights - If any warning lights are illuminated, it will again be an MOT failure.
Well you just picked up 6 plugs. Unless you keep two spare :P
Canadian blood for you. We all have flappy heads.
That is just greedy. Also, I wasn't aware that the Accord came in V6 guise.
I hope you're not basing the extra power on marketing BS. If you're getting it remapped you could easily see an extra 30 ponies, but never believe chip claims. Also, might be worth pointing out, new MoT rules coming into force at the end of the year will fail you for having a chipped/modded ECU, after market HID/Xenon lights and a range of other silly things.
This, we're nicer to XCNurse because he has a ban hammer, but if something looks rancid, he gets heat for it.
Exactly, if you turned up the screw on your car, then you'll get praise. If you put on 18" alloys and tyres with such low profile there is no sidewall flex, expect to get a ribbing.
Isn't that much, I scoffed it all before I finished my second cuppa coffee.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG