name: Eric Watson
Username: frag
Car Number: 85
Team: [AW]Asphalt Warriors

Quote from Raven88 :

Anyone else have the issue with laps over 100 it doubles it? I am running the 64bit version, so I don't know if thats why or not. Just wondering if anyone else has seen this.

yes, i have noticed >100 laps it does not read out correctly.

i had created a script in AHK in which button presses would corrispond to shortcut/hotkeys set up for a media player that worked pretty well, just had to make sure the keys didn't conflct with the game.

an overlay would be cool. i have a multi monitor setup so i didn't need any type of an overlay because i could just glance over to my right.

weighted fuel is geared more for aircraft.

i would like to see the option for percentage or quantity; gallons (US), imprial gallons(UK) and litres.

what would be a good handicap to place on the BF1 when racing on the Oval with the FO8. i searched around but didn't find anything. i was hoping there was a discussion on using just an intake restriction versus intake and weight.

Races are just shy of 20 minutes in an FO8 (30 laps), with occasional 50-100 lap races.


I am almost thinking-just let them run free and deal with the slower traffic.

I will be definitely try my best to be in this.

this is getting ridiculous. i think the dev's work for 3dRealms.

you are going to run into issues running 2 monitors with different resolutions.

have you seen this thread for correcting the FOV: http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=13848 ?

very important. a good setup can win the race or loose it.

for example: i learned AS3 with a default setup. i worked on my own setup and eventually i got a setup from setupgrid and was a couple seconds quicker than the default and about .5-1 second quicker than anything i could come up with. i had a PB of about 1:02.70 at the time, consistently hitting 1:03's.

my team mate tells me to try his setup, and after just a couple laps i hit a new PB of 1:01.79, nearly 1 second quicker than than my previous PB, and is about 1 second off the HotLap WR. after tweaking this setup a bit, i consistently run high 1:01's and get low 1:01 splits. my generous team mate is probably jealous because i'm now faster than him on most AS tracks using modified versions of his setup.

LFS is fighting in a world where a vast majority of consumers want what looks best. content or quality have nothing to do with the top sellers in todays market (with the exception of very few).

i can't even count how many games have been released in the last few years that have ZERO content; they just look good. so many games released in today's market have been played dozens of times before and the only thing developers are able to do is make them look better as more processing/gfx power becomes available. all of these state-of-the-art, good-looking games are filled with numerous bugs and game play issues.

most racing sims that have come out since around the 2003/2004 time frame only have better graphics over their predecessors or like most games in todays market are geared towards arcadism for fun. the sim crowd is small, and with piracy at an all time high its no wonder nothing good has been being released or even developed.

Quote from George Kuyumji :

Please everybody I dont meant 'mods' like in rFactor, I mean mainly real life add-on TRACKS for LFS, no Physic mods, no car mods

Made by only 1 great modding Team in high quality only with one new track (1 version) every couple of months or so - no modding madness, no physic mods, no cars mods

people need to read and pay attention. i can't believe how many posts i was skimming through suggesting/arguing mods and not tracks.

tracks would be awesome, but there would have to be some sort of submission system like mentioned previously in this thread. the thing i absolutely hate about rfactor that was mentioned in the OP is in some cases there are literally dozens of the same track! and i'm not talking about different layouts either.

i think it would be amazing to take to Nürburgring with the quality of the physics in this game. the dirty nasty things i'd do to drive the BF1 or FBM on the ring....

still disappointed with how long the rocco is taking.

one of the top reason's i bought LFS was because the rocco was comming out within days, now its been months... false advertising if you ask me.

I have compiled a list of IP’s of all LFS servers on the Master List that show up in game to be used with IP filtering software. I don't know if anyone here uses programs such as PeerGuardian 2, but I like to leave it running to keep my computer safe, but it tends to block game servers.

For anybody that uses PeerGuardian 2 (or similar IP filtering program) you may have notice that many of the LFS servers are blocked by even common block lists of just problematic IPs. i.e. Level 1, ads, known spammers, known hackers, spy ware ect...

Leaving PG2 enabled would pretty much stall out the game. I left PG2 running with the previously mentioned lists and made a sandwich while refreshing the LFS server list just to see how many were blocked. 20 minutes and a couple more sandwiches it was still trying to reach servers and only about 100 of 934 had popped up.

I will update the allow list weekly when the server list is near its peak like a weekend afternoon. I am setting the filters to display the maximum number of servers, and hopefully all of the servers listed on the master list will show. The filter includes Private, Public, Empty, Reset allowed, and Cruise servers with ALL cars.

I am working on getting the list hosted at IBlockList for those familiar with the site. Iblocklist hosts lists for PG2 and other IP filtering programs.

For now I threw it up on my dropbox: http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/175620/LFS%20Servers.txt

LFS needs a VR.


VR6.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZHuPlp1xSg

dual 24v vr6

http://s104.photobucket.com/al ... &current=MOV00951.flv

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

WTF is up with your dashboard in the XFG?! You are using pre-Z interior textures!

huh? i've only had LFS since December so its whatever's been out. must be from the high-res pack i downloaded...

edit: from here. doesn't look like its been updated recently. it was a top of the page sticky so i decided to grab it.

Last edited by erfrag, Sat, 28 Feb 2009 03:30.

i have an x1950 and game on a 19" CRT trinitron and everything was really washed out.

adjusting what was in blue seemed to even it out some on my setup.


some quick screens:
http://i52.photobucket.com/alb ... 2009-02-2709-07-39-14.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/alb ... 2009-02-2709-13-05-32.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/alb ... 2009-02-2709-13-35-25.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/alb ... 2009-02-2709-14-31-90.jpg

i tried taking the XFG and XFR and get close to a 2001 jetta 1.8t but it wasn't easy. LFS does not allow factory spring rates with ride height very easily. you have to jack the ride up all the way, but live camber seems to hold with the McPherson strut the game uses). a majority of the mkIV A4 chassis golf/jetta/NB (1999-05) came with springs between 130 lbs/in and 170 lbs/in.

Shock rates were more of a guess based on steering response in the XFR. I have Bilstein HD's which are a lot stiffer than even the factory "sport" shocks. The difference was night and day and the initial turn in was like night and day over factory. Weight of the mkIV Jetta/Golf could not be obtained so I went for a close power/weight ratio. Springs would have to be softer to accommodate less sprung weight.

This is what I came up with for a 2001 Jetta 1.8t:
Height: 110/100 m (REAR/front)
Springs f/r: 160/140 lbs/in (160lbs/in = 28 N/mm)
Damp: 6 Ns/mm
Rebound: 6 Ns/mm
Sway f/r: 20/30 N/mm
(above is XFR, to get the proper power/weight ratio)

Revised:
XFG to get proper suspension/tire combo
Ride height: .170/.180 (rear/front)
Spring: 20/29
Damping: 3.3/5
Sway: 37/48.5
Ballast: 190kg @ 100% front. gives 63.3/36.7 (could be less, 55/45-60/40 feels good also)
Camber: 1* front, 3* rear
My "spirited" and track setup use 38-42 PSI. 35-38 PSI gets fairly even tire wear with mostly spirited street driving, outsides of the front are generally warmer up front, and the insides on the rear tires.

With Bilstein aftermarket shocks:
Damping: 6/9 (rear/front)

With RSB:
Sways: 100/48.5 (rear/front)

i had some trouble with the brakes because the MKIV A4 chassis is designed so the rear locks up first with no rear passengers/cargo, kicking in ABS, and keeping the car straight for the most part, in the game the rear slides out under hard braking in corners because the suspension is so soft.

edit: factory toe/camber: front .6-.9*. rear looks around 3*. 1/8" toe in(.348 degrees, .174 per side). when the rear tires are at 35/lbs the outside edge of the tire does not contact the ground.

I have a Bildon Motorsports (VW Motorsports) Rear sway bar . This is an internal RSB. Internal being it sits in the rear axle beam and not outside. It adds about 20 lbs to unsprung weight. External adds to sprung weight. Usually 8-15 lbs. I could not obtain the exact torque rate this rear sway provides, but a similar design states 363 lbs/in of roll resistance, which is around 64 N/mm. When I try to jack up the rear left tire, the front left comes off the ground at the same time as the rear tire. Same thing when I try to jack up the front, the rear comes off at the same time the front does. When I up the rear sway on the XFR to around 80-110 it seems to handle like my car does with the additional rear sway. I say additional because every rear sway design i've seen for the MKIV A4 chassis compliments the factory sway. Front sway bars are replacements.

Factory rear sway bars:
Golf: 21mm/18mm (front/rear)
Jetta: 23mm/18mm
GTI and most factory sport suspensions: 23mm/21mm
R32/TT/4-motion: 20mm/18mm

Other rear sway specs:
Neuspeed 28mm solid bar external RSB: 428-560 in-lbs/degree or 260 lbs/ft (45.5 N/mm)
H-Sport 30mm external: 284 lbs/in (50 N/mm)

If spring rate is linear with solid bar diameter you could figure it out the factory rates using the 28mm @ 45.5 N/mm and 30mm @ 50 N/mm. If I get a chance I'll mess around with this in single player later (EDIT: i did this and in LFS it appears to be mostly correct, the car ends up with a bit over steer compared to what i remember of the factory handling, and has too much over steer with the rear sway values)

Taking in as much ballast as possible only brings the weight up to around 2200lbs on the XFR. My 2001 Jetta is 3180 lbs. Thats with over a 1/2 tank of gas, myself, my rear seats, spare tire and and some junk. IIRC it was 2900 with 1/2 tank without me and no spare, and around 2750 when I tracked the car with no rear seats, no spare, no passenger seat, no subwoofer. Weight should be round distributed around 60/30 to 70/30. At my curb weight of 3180 and 245bhp it puts my car around 155 bhp/ton. (210 hp at the wheels) The 2.0 should be around 85 bhp/ton with around 100 bhp (115 or so at the wheels).

1 N/mm = 5.710146 lbs/in (i googled "N/mm to lbs/in", there were multiple sources so i didn't have to do the conversion myself)

Last edited by erfrag, Fri, 20 Feb 2009 21:06.

Quote from th84 :

What times do you usually race? Feel free to join us on any of the S3R servers or the LOTA league servers. Some people are usually on every night (Thur. nights are race night, so it will be private). I think you'll find that the guys on those servers are as freindly and helpful as you'll find anywhere else. (myself not included, of course. Im an ass)

i work early mornings, usually get on around 12PM EST (5PM GMT) for a few hours. if i get on late i won't usually race later than 7-8PM EST(12AM-1AM GMT). I liked the endurance days with 15-20 lap races. 20-30 minute races seem to be a good balance for me. it gives me a chance to tweak anything and still get in some good races, especially since i don't have many setups and am still learning some tracks/cars.

that dual VR6 lupo is just 2 stock vr6's. rated at around 180ish whp each. maybe 400whp with his setup in the car, but its a light car. i know a few people pushing 300+ hp in a front wheel drive VWs and it sucks as much as how fun it iss. you can't use the power unless you're on the freeway. and it costs big $$'s too. i could put a $2k supercharger kit on a mustang and get >400 whp and be quicker than a $5k turbo kit on a 1.8t. if only 4-motion jetta's were sold in the US. i've looked at SAABs and Volvos but they seem even more expensive than a VW/audi in the go-fast department.

with bilstein HD shocks and a bildon RSB my MKIV jetta is very neutral. the rear end will follow wherever the front goes. the handling limits are easily recognized when the rear starts to step out. driving a small auto-x course my car was corning about the same as an M3, except the M3 was punishing my car in the straights. the factory "sport" suspension came with thicker sways, and according to the color codes on the springs i have the stiffest springs available in north america. 99% of aftermarket stiffer than stock springs lower the car too far. to the point where the mcphearson strut design gives you a camber curve that is horrible and your COG is below ground. any gain from stiffer springs you loose in bad camber and bad COG unless you have "sport" spindles which cost around $750, or the spindles from an R32 or audi TT.

sorry i'm off topic.

Last edited by erfrag, Thu, 12 Feb 2009 19:20.

where to race now? i've been on CTRA since i finally broke down and bought LFS the week the Rocco was supposed to be released. no rocco, now no CTRA.

CTRA is pretty much the only place i've found that is populated on an everyday basis with HELPFUL racers. people here are willing to share sets and even guide me through a few laps on a new track/car combo.

i'm not the fastest, comfortable cars and tracks only get me around 1-2 seconds off the track record and i don't think a league would be much fun because of that.

i've almost given up on the Race 1 server. since i moved to single seats i've had a lot more fun and have much closer races.

off topic. but if you've got a VR, you'll love this:

the sound you are describing sounds almost like how a diverter valve (recirculating blow off valve) sounds with a cold air intake.

i have a VW pushing around 18-20PSI and i love the sound the DV makes over a BOV. when i was stock with around 8psi you could barely hear it, but once you pass 15psi it really sounds nice. you get a nice PSHHHH and not a quick pshsqueek that most BOV's make.

this is kind of like what my car sounds like. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usPVnPtPuEs

Quote from Ball Bearing Turbo :

This is precisely why turbocharged vehicles benfit from larger exhaust systems since the pressure drop is greater and therefore spool times are shorter. This is also why the positive feed back effect you correctly mentioned happens - but not directly because of the increased flow as cylinder pressure rises; what rises with cylinder pressure? OH right, the EGT skyrockets - often causing the turbine housing to actually glow.

i know this thread is a couple months old but i thought i'd add my obervations since i have been daily driving, and tracking turbocharged cars since i got my driving license.

i wanted to add that the first sentence in the above post is not always true. it is true for probably 90% of all turbo applications since most people aim for larger power over stock or n/a. for many factory turbo setups where a car is equipped with a fairly small turbo, i have found that the exhaust size can be used to shift the power band around. the larger the exhaust, the higher the power band till you maximize the pressure differential.

for example i have a fairly small turbo on my car. it was designed to be a very livable-daily around town setup. the turbo spikes at 18-20 psi early and tapers to 12-14psi around optimal shift points for best acceleration.

from a 2" to 2.5" spool was much quicker, mid range was strongest of the exhaust systems i have tried. 2500-4000 was quite a bit stronger than the 2" exhaust. 235ft-lbs and 195hp to 250ft-lbs and 205hp at the wheels was obtained. boost pressure seemed to taper off quicker than the 3"

from a 2.5" to 3" spool was slightly slower than the 2.5", but i had more top end. with the 3" on the motor in my car some people have experienced over spinning and damaging their turbine. when the turbo sppols, it spools quicker, but slighty later compared to the 2.5" or 2". 2000-3500 was slightly weaker than the 2.5" as the turbo didn't spool quite as fast, but 3500-6000 was a lot stronger. 240 ft-lbs and 215hp at the wheels. it makes pretty much the same amount of torque past 4000 rpm's, but is shift up in the powerband, netting slightly higher HP figures.

i attribute this to the way the exhaust gasses flow through the turbine at faster velocities where the flow may not be as efficient as if there was some back pressure on the turbo form the 2.5" vs the 3".

i have always used engine load to explain how boost is built, and how fast from my observations. with a 24 pound flywheel my car generates more boost in neutral than a 12 pound. but the 12 pound accelerates quicker as there is less rotational mass.

EGT's reach in the low thousands of degrees C. without going into positive pressure my EGT's are around 300-400C depending on around town cruising or highway cruising. which is the efficiency range of a catalytic converter for emmissions purposes. when i really get on it over and over again they are in upwards of 1000-1200C, and my turbo starts to glow orange. this is why some people install turbo timers on street cars. the engine must run to allow the oil and/or water to cool the turbo so coking does not occur in the oil lines and houseing of the turbo where the oil flows. so if you have a turbo charged car, don't beat on it, then shut it off without idleing the engine for a few seconds (15-60 depending on how hot your EGT's are), or driving a short, low-load distance.

Last edited by erfrag, Sat, 3 Jan 2009 00:10.

how would i add my own sound? i think the new turbo sound is better, but i don't like the blow off sound. when a bypass valve flutters like that air is osculating through the charged pipes and damaging the turbine housing. although this doesn't' matter for a race car, or a video game for that matter i'd like a "cleaner" sound, like the sound my turbocharged daily driver makes (Audi/VW 1.8t). i know i try to avoid the flutter if i want my turbo to last.

here's a sample of what i am talking about: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usPVnPtPuEs (1.8t with diverter valve)

or

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZH-NYCfQ6ik (1.8t big turbo with blow off)