its a 4 lane highway, the oncoming lane is to the right, you just cant see it through the grass/shrubbery
Dat white Subi! 
Perth has an amazing car scene.
Been in there today and did not see anything that was out of the ordinary,, just a lot of dirt in that filter in the left front (driver side). I noticed that there was quite some smoke out of the exhaust (but it is pretty cold,, so ya) and that the was some vapor which was black as oil, is this normal?
Also, I turned on all the electrical stuff in the car and noticed that the car was running a little slower when I turned on my high beams. I only dropped once and climbed up right after that again.
maybe check your alternator/generator if it puts out around 14 volts with a volt meter.best if u check at the battery
with the smoke: could be a crankcase valve. lift your oil cap while running car,see if u hear sucking sound.
with the smoke: could be a crankcase valve. lift your oil cap while running car,see if u hear sucking sound.
Thats a "how long is a peice of string" question, that only you can answer.... I've used ~20m for my door speakers, but then I've run dedicated wires from all the doors into the boot. It depends what your wiring up, from where to where, the route etc. But at the end of the day - cable is cheap. You will always find a use for the spare stuff.
I notice you've also not bought any power wire / accessories...
Obviously you have different brands in the US, but looking through Crutchfield...
Alpine - ok,
Boston - older speakers were good, none of their new stuff is brilliant,
Diamond - good,
Focal - very good (although expensive),
Infinity - ok(ish),
JBL - good (...if your on a budget),
JL Audio - good (but quite expensive),
JVC - avoid,
Kenwood - ok(ish...),
Kicker - good
MTX - good,
Pioneer - nothing special,
Rockford Fosgate - good,
Sony - dont bother.
Avoid the Chinese stuff like the plague.
A ported box gives more output, but not at all volumes - it will be tuned to a specific frequency, and anything above or below that isn't going to be that loud.
I built a ported box, and it kicks like nothing else on the lows... but as you start to bring the frequency up, you start to lose alot of the output, and so you don't really get any bass.
Plus, a ported box is harder to build, has to be much closer to the right size to sound good, plus is always going to be larger etc... my next box will be sealed for sure.
At the end of the day it's personal preference - but you cant just slap a speaker in any old box and expect it to sound good.
This is probably the last place I would ask for car-audio advice tbh...
Try somewhere like here - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/
indeed, dat scooby :0
ok, i think i got this...just a recap to make sure..
for the wire, just take my own measurements, and add a few feet for comfort room?
doesn't this cover the "power-wire/accessories"? http://www.crutchfield.com/S-P ... Amplifier-Wiring-Kit.html
half of those brands i dont even think i considered on crutchfield; shouldnt have a problem there. il revise my list to make sure anyways.
dont plan on buying anything that i dont know the name.
if i can fit it, i will get ported i think. i will measure to make sure, obviously. my dad is great with measurements and he can help me with that.
when i figure out the main issues i am having, with the dsp etc, i will be sure to check out that forum.
thank you guys for your knowledge
Well here is my 1983 MK1 Golf with a 1.8 16V KR (MK2 GTi) engine. Hydrolic an cable gearbox conversion, 4 branch exhaust manifold, 2" 3/4 exhaust straight through, k-jet injection. Very nippy weighing about 850kg
If I hear a sucking sound (haven't checked yet since it is dark outside) is that good or bad news?
About the 14V: my mechanic has checked all kinds of electrical stuff by hooking up to a computer and found no irregularities he says, does a check like that include this alternator?
Yes BUT it's stupidly expensive!
You can get an 8AWG kit on eBay for ~£12, but I'd go for 4AWG - it's only a little more (~£18), but 2.5x the current capacity... trust me, you'll apreciate it when you decide to go for another or larger amp and DONT have to rip it all out.
one last hassle with you, i hope 
this is the updated, and perhaps final list of whatever.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1 ... lon-KDC-X395.html?tp=5684
http://outlet.crutchfield.com/ ... ;nvpair=FFBrand%7cKenwood
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1 ... t.html?ssi=0&tp=21571
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2 ... .html?search=speaker+wire
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2 ... mpVR-07CVR124.html?tp=111
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GT65/JBL-GT6-5.html?tp=97
what do you recommend as a change? what do you recommend i go on ebay/amazon for to find cheaper.
this is the updated, and perhaps final list of whatever.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1 ... lon-KDC-X395.html?tp=5684
http://outlet.crutchfield.com/ ... ;nvpair=FFBrand%7cKenwood
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1 ... t.html?ssi=0&tp=21571
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2 ... .html?search=speaker+wire
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2 ... mpVR-07CVR124.html?tp=111
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GT65/JBL-GT6-5.html?tp=97
what do you recommend as a change? what do you recommend i go on ebay/amazon for to find cheaper.
Apart from the fact that youre about to buy shit you've never heard in person for a car thats not even in your driveway yet, dont you think a pair of subwoofers will be absolute overkill if the rest of the audio system isnt up to it?
If u hear a sucking sound thats not bad,but not good. that means the cranccase vent valve or hoses have leak,and that causes the car run funny,or die out while driving and loose power.
Did ur mechanic put a charging system/battery machine on ,or a fault code computer? coz an ordinary computer does not check your charging system,but some of it has an option to show system voltage.
I have no idea what he has put on it. I will check for noises tomorrow and let you know about it. I will bring the car to him next Thursday because my starter is acting funny so I am getting a new one installed.
On the unit make sure its at least 4x50W but most new units are that way,and with speakers make sure if its a 2 or 3 way that it has a built in crossover,coz if not than u gotta buy em too. Oh and check speaker RMS wattige too,higher the better.
Oh and dont put 2x12 sub. a good 10 is way enough in a car
like that mate just don't bother with the wheel lock eh?
bet that goes quite well either waycouple of pics from this weekend with a buddy from ukmkivs.net
it has the 4x50W power outputs, but i cant find if it has the crossover...any idea jakg?
EDIT: and im rebuilding the whole audio system because i have to. the DSP radio it comes with wont allow it any other way without other modifying. so it isn't a question of the system being up to it, but a question of buying the right stuff.
EDIT: and im rebuilding the whole audio system because i have to. the DSP radio it comes with wont allow it any other way without other modifying. so it isn't a question of the system being up to it, but a question of buying the right stuff.
I would imagine pretty much any co-ax speaker would have a crossover built in - but I would always go for a proper component set if possible.
If you do buy two of those subs you will have to wire the two voice coils in series to bring the ohm load to 8ohm, and then wire both subs in series to bring it back down to 4ohm. So your power at 4ohms on your amplifier is 500w, meaning 250w to each sub.
Also ported box's tend to be for SPL, as in if you build a ported box its going to be mainly for car shaking.
Sealed boxes tend to be for quality, if you build a sealed box its going to not have as much rumble, but sound far far better.
So it depends on what you want exactly.
Edit:
Also, just wondering, why cant you use your current build in headunit? Why does this DSP radio mean you cant build upon that?
each description of a ported vs. sealed box i want to change what i want...il figure it out eventually
i cant just wire the sub's parallel? will that work?
also, the dsp basically just makes the amp that comes with the car incompatable with everything else; my head unit's display is not working, and i want to be able to use my ipod. for this combo, it is easiest to just replace everything.
i cant just wire the sub's parallel? will that work?
also, the dsp basically just makes the amp that comes with the car incompatable with everything else; my head unit's display is not working, and i want to be able to use my ipod. for this combo, it is easiest to just replace everything.
You have dual voice coil subs - it's got two separate +/- to get the impedance you want.
logitek you'll need to buy a new car which you can put ipod in. 
:hide:
oh yeah also say hello to my wittle fwend
:hide:oh yeah also say hello to my wittle fwend
If you wire your subs up in parallel, each sub will have a load of 2ohms, when you wire them together in parallel it will then be 1ohm. Your amplifier isn't designed to handle that resistance. You will need to wire one voice coil to the other in series, and then each sub together in parallel.
Or change amplifier to one that handles 1ohm.
Or change amplifier to one that handles 1ohm.
You painted them yourself? How hard was it?
I'm a bit of a spastic with paint, but my winter wheels look like shit... would love to know if a DIY finish is going to hold up.
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