if the tire's grip overcomes the clutch's ability to keep friction with the flywheel, then I suppose it would start slipping...although it is a bit rough for that to happen when on hard street tires...
or at least this is my best guess (it happened to me too)
It's not this easy... if it was, you would not see a SINGLE burnout in the world at the drag races! Yes, clutches can fry, but the clutch in, let's say, the FBMW is supposed to be a high preformance "unsprung race ceramic clutch" or something simmliar, not the same one you will find in a pinto. Hell, a 1990 miata STOCK old non replaced since 1990 clutch is more durable= I've driven one, and it beggd for more abuse, the car even had LSD too.
I also spotted this when driving on the gravel parts of Blackwood RallyX. I stayed in 2nd gear (in the XRG with autoclutch) and was driving/sliding round the gravel bends at full throttle and the clutch was getting hotter until it went red after about 3 laps. On the tar sections it seemed fine (but then again I wasn't getting much wheelspin on the tar in the XRG), but the gravel parts seem to create clutch heat when the driven wheels are spinning and the clutch is not being used (i.e I didn't change gear in the middle of the corner etc)
Another potential bug: does the clutch simulation take the mass of the car into account? I noticed its as easy to overheat the clutch on the LX4 as it is to overheat it on one of the heavier road cars. I'm not sure if it should, but surely a lighter car should put less strain on the clutch given the same shifting behavior and driving style, and should therefore heat up less? I say this because I have a Lotus Seven (and I know quite a few guys who participate in the Lotus Challenge which is a race series for Lotus Sevens here in SA) and I have never heard any complaints of clutch overheating (nor had any myself in my Seven) even when flatshifting/not lifiting off much when shifting over long race distances.
Is it normal that I feel the feedback less informative, a bit softer and lighter?
Also it is great that there are now realistic redlines to the road cars… but why it got changed also on the GTR and formyla cars?
F3000 with rev limiter @ 7500 rpm?
XF GTR @ 8000rpm??? Oh come on! There are even factory road cars that have higher rev limiters for the same engine layout.
Clutch scared me a bit after some rough gear changes but then I realized that it is not that difficult to keep it cool.
But anyway I find it a bit excessive that it can be completely destroyed in less than 5se sec of slipping.
I haven't given a great deal of thought to the ignition system before. What is the difference between the starter motor and the ignition? Also, has anyone tested the new clutch with automatic trans?
Turn you key in your real road car to on, that is powering the ignition (as well as all other electrical). Turn the key further to start your car. That is giving power to your starter motor to start the car.
In race cars, they typically have a toggle switch to turn the ignition on, then a button or momentary switch to power the starter.
You can all make fun of me, I'm jumping on the single cruise server tonight to test out the clutch heating and stalling in the road cars driven in a road driving way. Oops, scratch that, hockey game tonight. I'll do it tomorrow night
After a stall the ignition is ON but the engine isn't turning. So you need to turn it with the starter motor. You have to turn the key BACK to turn the ignition OFF before you can use the starter motor.
Most normal cars have had this double start prevention for several decades. It's there to prevent you engaging the starter motor while the engine is running.
Try it with your own car. Stall the engine and try to start it without turning the key back. If your car is working properly it shouldn't start. Only after you have turned the key back a notch or two will it be able to start again. Another test is to try and start the engine while it's already running. I don't recommend doing this as it can damage your starter/starter pinion/the teeth on your flywheel.
Not a bad idea actually - I might have to do the same. Will be first time I lower myself down to the level of cruising, but it's probably the best way to test the road clutches in road driving (the temptation to floor it is too much on an empty, unregulated track).
Someone be there and get a replay of Tristan on a cruise server!
I've been on the CLC server all last weekend practicing using a clutch (well, practicing my heel-toe) in a non-racing environment. Actually, I've done a fair share of messing about on the CLC server when it first came out due to the lack of any racing (ignoring AS2 and AS3) last year.
I've had a manual for 19 years (first car in the first year of driving was automatic, and car now is automatic ). If you ever need to restart the car while moving, the last thing you want to do is to turn the key off, thus having the steering column lock on you while moving down the road. I think it is the same with automatics if you put it into neutral.
If for any reason your car stalls (they can stall from more than just poor starting out with clutch), then you just press the clutch and restart it.
I don't really understand they way of thinking with that starting/ignition thing here.
If you turn the key in your car it does run starting motor and ignition at the same time and then the key pulls itself back a little when you let your hold of it and the starting engine stops turning.
Say if Im wrong but in LFS's BF1 you just press on button and that turns on the starting motor and ignition and after the motor is running the starting motor isn't running. When your car stalls your ignition might be on but when you press the ignition button nothing happens as you have to press the button 2 times, 1st to turn something off and 2nd time to start the car. I don't really see why you have to turn something off.
You should just be able to press the ignition button once just to run the starter motor because it's already off so you don't have to manually turn it off as it does that automatically = and you're off.'
I might not understand something here but that's how my logic goes
Turning the ignition off won't activate the steering lock. That only happens if you take the key out of the lock altogether. Some (many) cars do require and off before a start.
Your key will have (at least) three positions. Off, On and Start. On is ignition. Start is starter motor. They are separate. When you start you turn the motor, and the key jumps back to On on it's own. Simple.
Poor example, as the BF1 does not have a starter motor. But for all the other cars, that is indeed correct.
Because, in road cars, most/some require a quick off then back on. It's not that rare. And LFS wants it that way.
The race cars should, realistically speaking, have a separate starter button to the ignition toggle. And a Master Switch. And an extinguisher handle/button. And a fuel pump switch. And a rain light switch. And a datalogger/video power/log/record button(s). Ooops, got carried away...
You should just be able to press the ignition button once just to run the starter motor because it's already off so you don't have to manually turn it off as it does that automatically = and you're off.'
I might not understand something here but that's how my logic goes [/quote]
A racing clutch will be far less durable than a road clutch, it has a much smaller plate and is made of a much softer material, think of it like using softer tires that don't last as long.
If you stall whilst moving, only possible if you've chosen far too high a gear or somethings wrong with your car simply select an appropriate gear for the speed your traveling and release the clutch to bump start the engine.
No its not. I dunno what kind of car you have, but when I get it going without touching the accelerator (which I regularly do), my ACCELERATOR PEDAL does NOT strat depressing by itself...
Go try to start a car by lifting off the clutch slowly, do NOT touch the accelerator, and the car will start moving (as expected) BUT the green bar starts going up, trying to prevent a stall (as it shoudlnt be)
Some FWD shopping carts actually have loonie protection and they add more throttle in case those notice idle rpm drop, so they actively try to keep idle at set rpm. Not of course older better men's cars, there you are in control, not some loonie aid
So I don't think that is really bug in physics, just a ecu feature?
Duh, maybe because the green bar doesn't show pedal position but how open the throttle at the engine is? If the ECU adds throttle to prevent stalling, of course your pedal doesn't move, but neither does the pedal in LFS. It just shows that the throttle is opening up, not that you push the pedal.
I think many people have discussed this elsewhere but, I thought I would raise a bug against the auto-clutch transmission. It's definately much better than before but...
The auto-clutch is not used enough on downshifts. This causes the transmission to lock up upsetting the car (felt more on the FOX that the FBMW which is ok).
It does not feel natural to blip the throttle when using paddle and having no clutch pedal but I appreciate that the sim is technically accurate.
I propose that for auto-clutch drivers, it operates more on the downshift to remove some of the transmission lock up.
That way "real" drivers will have a small advantage from being able to match revs, but "paddle" drivers can still get round the track at good speed.
That's true, but as far back as I can remember, they were always showing the actual applied engine throttle and not the pedal input. One example are the idle RPM which are completely "held" by the green throttle bar, another one are the speed limiters, which work by reducing the throttle input so you don't pass the limit, so even though your pedal is depressed fully, the green bar will show the limited throttle. Same goes for the TC systems.
The traction control seems to kick in when the clutch is fried, this seems unrealistic since it measures wheel spin. I haven't tried slipping the clutch on a real car, but I thought it only started to limit throttle when wheel-speed was higher than the real speed.
And the clutch seems to overheat and wear out way too fast on a lot of the cars, the street cars should be able to handle tons of abuse before you can see any sign of clutch overheating/excessive wear.
A bug discovered in the horn, I thought that was the button of my G25, but looking at the options realized that indeed is a BUG same.
I do not know exactly what the cause of the problem, but it only occurs when the car this off, squeeze the button for the horn (both forms if the keyboard or the G25), and no sound comes from, if the car is on the bug disappears completely, recorded a video showing.
I also tested the FXO with another kind of horn on another track and the same thing happened, I tested in the X10 and this did not occur.
A bug without virtually nothing of importance, but is a bug anyway.
I have to agree that road clutches wear out WAY too fast in Patch X30...after a 2 lap race in XRT at BL1 with required pit stop, half the AI cars (and me ) had fryed clutches...XRT clutch is just impossible; after taking off twice, its in the red...
). If you ever need to restart the car while moving, the last thing you want to do is to turn the key off, thus having the steering column lock on you while moving down the road. I think it is the same with automatics if you put it into neutral.