spdo event database is a great place if you're looking for race replays. You will have to brows it page by page to find the combos your interested in, but it's worth it. I recommend to watch a few from Original LFS League, high quality racing there usually.
The only settings in the controller options you need to preset are the wheel turn and wheel turn compensation.
Wheel turn compensation should always be set to 1 if you wish to have as linear controller to car steering relationship as possible. = most realistic.
720 degrees is the most realistic, as that is the max setting on road cars currently. You can get away with 540 as well, as it's essentially the same thing, safe for big slides or tight hairpins. I think many use 540 with g25 and similar. I prefer 720 as I can feel the car more and thus perform better.
To read about Logitech Profiler setup go here.
Tip: it's easier to setup degrees of rotation with "right left" keys.
You can use a little more then just 0 on centering spring, some go up to around 25. It depends on what feels right for you, this applies to Overall Effects Strength setting as well.
FFB in LFS is best set up "live" as you drive with the "," "." keys( I think that's the default keys).
Wheel turn compensation should always be set to 1 if you wish to have as linear controller to car steering relationship as possible. = most realistic.
720 degrees is the most realistic, as that is the max setting on road cars currently. You can get away with 540 as well, as it's essentially the same thing, safe for big slides or tight hairpins. I think many use 540 with g25 and similar. I prefer 720 as I can feel the car more and thus perform better.
To read about Logitech Profiler setup go here.
Tip: it's easier to setup degrees of rotation with "right left" keys.
You can use a little more then just 0 on centering spring, some go up to around 25. It depends on what feels right for you, this applies to Overall Effects Strength setting as well.
FFB in LFS is best set up "live" as you drive with the "," "." keys( I think that's the default keys).
I may be just seeing things, but does he put it into reverse mid-spin, as the rear is entering the grass and then back to first gear again?
LOL
I am Magnus Advocate, The Original Hero, destined to steal Vikings.
I am Magnus Advocate, The Original Hero, destined to steal Vikings.
Definitely my BL1/XFG speed when Partyboyu and Duck dominated there. Good times. Haven't put that much effort into anything LFS related since.
Just found this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnKARl8HJjY
Walter Röhrl in a 911 at Nordschleife.. reverse?
Walter Röhrl in a 911 at Nordschleife.. reverse?
Shared a ICC/KZ2 with two friends for a summer. As I never actually participated in any races I'm not a proper karter 
. I did attend most of practices though. Great fun, don't think anything comes close to being that much fun at that price. I only drive hire karts now days.
. I did attend most of practices though. Great fun, don't think anything comes close to being that much fun at that price. I only drive hire karts now days.
Last edited by IDUI, .
A helpful post by Gabkicks:
http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/ ... php?p=2178816#post2178816
(For overall effects strength most LFS'ers use anything between 101 and 105.)
In addition set your ingame wheel rotation to the same value you set it to in the profiler.
Set Wheel turn compensation to 1.
Force to around 30 and adjust it while driving to your liking as this varies depending on car/setup.
http://www.gtplanet.net/forum/ ... php?p=2178816#post2178816
(For overall effects strength most LFS'ers use anything between 101 and 105.)
In addition set your ingame wheel rotation to the same value you set it to in the profiler.
Set Wheel turn compensation to 1.
Force to around 30 and adjust it while driving to your liking as this varies depending on car/setup.
Wow, this is great! Very happy for you Duck. As for sponsors, your seksiness alone should have the financing sorted. Looking forward to seeing you race in the big-league some day. 
This is the core of race craft imo, the will to keep it safe and incident free yet still be competitive. It will push you to become a better racer. Imagine how you would feel in a real kart race for example!
Allow yourself to enjoy it, it's a great adrenaline rush for just a 'game'.
I can understand how some are upset about the unexpected twists in the development schedule, especially if they have mastered every worthwhile combo. But to me it seems justified.
The physics engine has the highest priority. For that reason it's only natural that any opportunity to improve it overrides all other parts of the project, even promised content such as interiors. With Sirocco came a push to overhaul the physics engine, I'm sure this track has also contributed in many ways to its development. Considering the value of these additions I don't think the LFS team is in a position to be picky.
The physics engine has the highest priority. For that reason it's only natural that any opportunity to improve it overrides all other parts of the project, even promised content such as interiors. With Sirocco came a push to overhaul the physics engine, I'm sure this track has also contributed in many ways to its development. Considering the value of these additions I don't think the LFS team is in a position to be picky.
I agree, the tracks look very similar.
The Pau Circuit in France is pretty spectacular when it comes to curbs, especially one at around 1:08:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89QPw-EWL7o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89QPw-EWL7o
The effect of weight difference depends on the track and karts. I hope that those in charge of the competition you're entering have considered this. I think they would have received enough complains by now if the weight did matter greatly.
Is this correct?:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xv5i5u6PL_M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czxn2vK9EIU (starts at about 3:00)
As an example the indoor track I ran at was much narrower and twistier then the one in those clips. It also had at least two bends where you had to either slow down significantly or throw the rear around. During the competitions the layout was often changed to include very difficult triple chicanes.
The difference between a guy weighing 58kg(9 stone 2) and one of 76kg(12 stone) was about 0.200, IF(big if) they ran fairly equal karts. They're brothers and had been driving there for around two years, also consistently owned the track record no matter the layout which was altered about every 4 months.
Even if the difference in weight is there, the difference in handling and engine between the "good" karts and the rest is often greater then the difference in weight. Don't worry about it too much if you cannot do anything about it, your skill is what matters most here still (how you adapt to the kart for example).
Btw, I think your height is an advantage, at least from my experience of public karts that are suppose to suit most drivers, as the driving position usually suits those who are taller then average. Unless there's the option to slide the seat, in which case use it to change the karts balance to suit you(most probably as far forward as you find comfortable.
Last edited by IDUI, .
I agree with all your points. I was referring specifically to indoor hire kart competitions that require the drivers to add weight. In my case this meant adding 30kg(the maximum) only to the left side of the kart, as drivers had to weigh 95kg. The track being mostly rights handers, as they almost always are, this meant huge bounce issues as the grip improved. Small mistakes at certain turns would make the kart go crazy
making it tougher to be consistent.Otherwise as you say lighter guys at indoors twisty tracks definitely have an advantage. Which is why I'm surprised at OP's response, though perhaps weight is not an issue at the combo he will be driving.
It depends: if the competition you're entering has weight requirements then you may be at an advantage to the lighter guys who would have to add ballast which is static as opposed to your own body weight that you can use.
Just a note: some tyre scrub volumes are affected by the "car sound volume" slider, so you should have that at maximum for best results.
Didn't realize that those annoying good-lap points are actually stored. 
I noticed that you use 4'th gear in the turn after long straight, 3'rd gear works better in that bend. 3'rd also works better in the downhill turn before bridge in the last sector. This would also help with the understeer.
Also know that you cannot prevent yourself from getting better, everyone gets better with time.
Also know that you cannot prevent yourself from getting better, everyone gets better with time.
The balance change may explain this, if so it is minute as the lift was roughly thesame as we do to shift up in MRT/FBM. It may even have been a mental thing, where I just though that it was faster. I only used this in the turns where the revs would drop off with WOT, it seemed counter intuitive, but worked.. until the track/tyres warmed up more and the entry speed was high enough to sustain the revs. Just a little trick that sometimes works if the kart bogs down.
As for leaning to the outside, I guess it works in low grip conditions with those karts. As the grip gets better bouncing becomes an issue instead and having the kart pointing in the direction of the exit becomes more important as is being smooth.
However, I've seen two super fast indoor karters who seemed everything other then smooth. They compete regularly, with fast Sport2000 (same as Rotax?) and KZ2 drivers and are able to run faster by simply stabbing the brakes as fast as they can and then getting back on throttle. The kart rotates with a screech and away they go. This approach allows for a ridiculously tight line, thus making passing them virtually impossible. This of course puts huge stress on the belt and I've seen them snap a few.
If you will be driving "Honda(or something) lawnmower 6.5hp engines" indoor with a steel guard around the kart then following may work:
Find the shortest rout around the track, as the grip improves you may be able to drive a narrower line around the course.
Sometimes a hairpin that you can take flat out, but barely, maybe faster with an abrupt throttle lift just before(no clue why that works).
Response is basecly nonexistent, so mouse-driver style throttle blips works better then being smooth, also keeps fuel supply to the engine.
Leaning to the outside is said to give more grip, not sure about that, watch your ribs if you do.
Experiment with different approaches to corners, some(mostly very tight hairpins) require an abrupt kick on the brakes to swing the kart around, while others(mostly highspeed chicanes) are faster with a very early smooth braking approach, almost rolling in.
Watch for different patches of surface, rough concrete patches have better grip on unoiled tracks, while the smooth stuff is much grippier when the track is oiled(or there's oil spill). Due to this weird lines are sometimes faster. If the track is oiled on purpose, collect as much of it during practice/quali, it dissolves the tyres making them much grippier.
Add ballast as far front as possible, if you need to at all.
You can tell that a kart is good by the sound and top speed. Good ones stay in high revs easier and unless you mess up don't die out of turns. Of course you want the most oversteery kart you can get(unless the track is cold/low grip).
Find the shortest rout around the track, as the grip improves you may be able to drive a narrower line around the course.
Sometimes a hairpin that you can take flat out, but barely, maybe faster with an abrupt throttle lift just before(no clue why that works).
Response is basecly nonexistent, so mouse-driver style throttle blips works better then being smooth, also keeps fuel supply to the engine.
Leaning to the outside is said to give more grip, not sure about that, watch your ribs if you do.
Experiment with different approaches to corners, some(mostly very tight hairpins) require an abrupt kick on the brakes to swing the kart around, while others(mostly highspeed chicanes) are faster with a very early smooth braking approach, almost rolling in.
Watch for different patches of surface, rough concrete patches have better grip on unoiled tracks, while the smooth stuff is much grippier when the track is oiled(or there's oil spill). Due to this weird lines are sometimes faster. If the track is oiled on purpose, collect as much of it during practice/quali, it dissolves the tyres making them much grippier.
Add ballast as far front as possible, if you need to at all.
You can tell that a kart is good by the sound and top speed. Good ones stay in high revs easier and unless you mess up don't die out of turns. Of course you want the most oversteery kart you can get(unless the track is cold/low grip).
Last edited by IDUI, .
Do you know about Zcars Mini's? They're RWD Hayabusa conversions and seem perfect for hillclimb. I have no idea how or where to find them though. I assume there are conversions kits and of course finished projects available. Maybe something to consider.
A quick search gives this:
http://www.zcars.org.uk/index.htm (Warning: loud automatic video stream) is a start.
Also just for few images and some info:
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/ ... index.php?showtopic=82695
A quick search gives this:
http://www.zcars.org.uk/index.htm (Warning: loud automatic video stream) is a start.
Also just for few images and some info:
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/ ... index.php?showtopic=82695
Now.. lets watch them fight. :munching_http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Zv7ZaBkOxE
And to add some balance to the thread:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mich%C3%A8le_Mouton
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKKfzR7dX-c
:munching_http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Zv7ZaBkOxEAnd to add some balance to the thread:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mich%C3%A8le_Mouton
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKKfzR7dX-c
I'm guessing the spots where you lose the rear is right as you're turning in and letting off the brakes into the turn after the longest straight, entry to the chicane following that and same spot in the downhill turn just before the bridge.
If my guess is correct then the remedy is simple, but may be not so easy: right after you're done with slowing the car in a straight line you will have to release the brake, this is where most lose it, it helps to be super smooth and to focus on the rear of the car, try to feel it.
You control it with [amount of steer input vs brake input] vs [velocity]. Most XFG/BL1(all tracks?) setups are very sensitive here. So if you can't manage to be smooth enough to keep the rear in check go a little bit slower on entry, it will feel VERY slow, but it's actually much faster( then losing the rear).
If my guess is correct then the remedy is simple, but may be not so easy: right after you're done with slowing the car in a straight line you will have to release the brake, this is where most lose it, it helps to be super smooth and to focus on the rear of the car, try to feel it.
You control it with [amount of steer input vs brake input] vs [velocity]. Most XFG/BL1(all tracks?) setups are very sensitive here. So if you can't manage to be smooth enough to keep the rear in check go a little bit slower on entry, it will feel VERY slow, but it's actually much faster( then losing the rear).
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG