Shouting LAGER, LAGER, LAGER . . Shouting . . . .
ManU or Chelsea?
Tight for feeling.
Long and tall or short and solid? (Gearing.)
Long and tall or short and solid? (Gearing.)
*hic*
I'm. Ummm.
*Hic*
Drinksh?
*Hic*
No Occifer. This ish a comp . . . computerer . . . computinglyer . . . C.O.M.P.U.T.E.R. Simuslashion. Simulashion. Sumulcron. Shimmy, shim shimaroo. Sim-U-ation. It's show real it's even got real coppers.
*hic*
Hmm. What? Blow in thish. Ish that really neshashary? Talk about total imershion-ion.
*Hic*
You want me to put the wheel down and shtep away from the deshk? One too many you say? Nonshense. I can handle mush more. No I'm only on the floor becush it seemed to want to be my friend. not many people want to be my friend.
*Hic* . . . . . *Sob* . . . . *Sob. Hic*
Nobody want to be my friend . . . .Waaaaaa.
-I really need to get out more.
I'm. Ummm.
*Hic*
Drinksh?
*Hic*
No Occifer. This ish a comp . . . computerer . . . computinglyer . . . C.O.M.P.U.T.E.R. Simuslashion. Simulashion. Sumulcron. Shimmy, shim shimaroo. Sim-U-ation. It's show real it's even got real coppers.
*hic*
Hmm. What? Blow in thish. Ish that really neshashary? Talk about total imershion-ion.
*Hic*
You want me to put the wheel down and shtep away from the deshk? One too many you say? Nonshense. I can handle mush more. No I'm only on the floor becush it seemed to want to be my friend. not many people want to be my friend.
*Hic* . . . . . *Sob* . . . . *Sob. Hic*
Nobody want to be my friend . . . .Waaaaaa.
-I really need to get out more.
Why is Gaffa tape like the force?
Because there is a light side and a dark side and it holds the universe together . . . . .
Because there is a light side and a dark side and it holds the universe together . . . . .
Just remember no matter how much people help you and tell you where to look, you'll only learn by doing things yourself and making your own mistakes.
But I hope I was some help.
Go race . . . .
Edit - Reading through my advice again I thought of something else. But it's something that will come to you naturally as you get used to what happens where and when. The point is . . .
Everything to do with a cars setup can and does effect something else. You might find that you do something that will increase rear traction, this might mean you can reduce rear downforce to get some more straight line speed, but this in turn might effect fast corner performance by inducing oversteer which can be counter-acted by some damper adjustment which in turn might effect your corner entry. It's cause and effect. So long as you recognise that you will have to continously adjust both your setups and your driving style in what seems a lap by lap basis you'll do fine. Eventually you will hit your sweet spot and the PB's will just keep dropping. You are a major factor in your cars performance so if you are sympathetic to the mechanical limits and learn your tracks well you are on a winner from the start.
But I hope I was some help.
Go race . . . .
Edit - Reading through my advice again I thought of something else. But it's something that will come to you naturally as you get used to what happens where and when. The point is . . .
Everything to do with a cars setup can and does effect something else. You might find that you do something that will increase rear traction, this might mean you can reduce rear downforce to get some more straight line speed, but this in turn might effect fast corner performance by inducing oversteer which can be counter-acted by some damper adjustment which in turn might effect your corner entry. It's cause and effect. So long as you recognise that you will have to continously adjust both your setups and your driving style in what seems a lap by lap basis you'll do fine. Eventually you will hit your sweet spot and the PB's will just keep dropping. You are a major factor in your cars performance so if you are sympathetic to the mechanical limits and learn your tracks well you are on a winner from the start.
Last edited by Funnybear, .
You could just take the wheels off and place the ting on a rug so it don't scratch the floor . . .
Interactive simulation. Why change it? Your experiancing the G!!
You don't want an oversteery setup with the FZR. If anything you want something that try's to cancel out as much oversteer as possible.
I used mouse and FZR was my car.
I used the mouse buttons to acc and brake while the K/B was used for gear changes. This allows your left hand to go do keyboardy things like F12 and F11 without interferring to much with your driving.
Now. To mouse the FZR you gotta look at a few things. Start with windows. LFS takes it's mouse speed from windows so make sure you have the mouse speed as low as is comfortable and that any acceleration is taken off the mouse. Apparently screen resolution also makes a difference, hi res faster mouse speed. Lo res lower mouse speed.
Then once in LFS itself go to control settings and have a gander at the steer centre reduction. Try and set it as low as you can. This takes off the acceleration on the wheel turn rate. This should reduce any over reaction you get from oversteer and the like which sends you fishtailing into the nearest wall.
I think that about covers the settings side of things. Now to move onto the setup.
Now, don't take any of this as gospel. You have to work somethings out on your own and you need to know how to change your own settings fro different tracks, race distances and cirumstances. But this should give you a rough idea of where to look and what to adjust.
The easy ones first.
Steering. Reduce the degree of wheel turn as much as you can. I generally ran around 20degrees lock to lock, but you can up or lower that to your hearts content. By reducing the steering lock you lower the amount of wheel turn that your mouse is responsible for meaning you can be more accurate and progressive rather than hacking the car around.
Downforce. I ran quite high rear to aid in getting the traction down. But with the new patch you can reduce it quite alot. For AS. NAT I was running between 3 and 4 degrees at the front and around 11 to 14 on the rear depending on my mood. But again, play with these settings untill you find something you are happy with.
Brakes. Just back of the front bias ever so slightly and reduce the overall force untill you can perform a high speed stop with the front tyres just onthe edge of skidding. If you watch yout tyre temp graph if your front tyres are continously running red or bursting then the first thing you need to do is reduce the braking power. It does mean will have to take very careful note of your brake points and you might find pedal users outbraking you as they can brake later. But don't panic. You'll soon be up with them again. Just remember that you are different and that you havee your own way of racing. Don't try and out do them at every corner because you can't.
Speaking of which. Tyres.
Lower pressure, more grip, better braking, higher wear rate, lower top speed.
Higher pressure, less grip, less braking, lower wear rate, higher top speed.
Also if you run front pressure higher than the rear (Particularily the FZR) then you will be able to control the braking much better. If the rear pressure is higher than the front it has a tendancy to put the car on edge during heavy braking. If you are loosing the tail under straightline braking this could be a reason why. You will also notice a handling difference with your pressures. If you run them high you get a much crisper and tighter car. If you run them low then the grip might be higher but the car feels wallowy and not so connected to the tarmac. Again. Play with the settings and find whats best for you.
Whats next. Ah yes. Toe in.
For the FZR get toe in to about 3 or 4 degrees. You can run less if you prefer a looser back end and with the new patch the FZR doesn't punish half as bad as it did if you lost the back end. But with 3 degrees toe in on the rear it really helps you get the power down earlier with the mouse without the rear saying hello to the front. I would stay neutral on the front as I found with the mouse you don't have enough control to get the most from any steering traits that toe in can give you.
What about suspension I hear you say, well I'm am coming to that. Just making sure I havn't forgotten anything else.
Ah yes. Parallel steer. Again, personal preference I think. I used to run pretty high parallel steer prehaps as much as 80-90%. I felt it helped calm the steering down somewhat.
Ok. Suspension.
This is where it get serious. You really are going to have to play with the settings here because everything effects everything else here. But a couple of major pointer would be . . .
Don't run too stiff. You can't control a rigid car with a mouse, bounces you all over the place and you just don't have the control.
Make sure you are not riding the end stops, hit them and you don't have enough control over the car. Make sure your ride height can accomodate the rough patches of the circuit. With the lack of any ground effect ride hieght isn't super critical apart from upsetting your ride. And again. Learn how to adjust as you go. Some track can take lower ride heights and stiffer suspension whilst others you need to run high and soft.
Now with the different damper settings I am going to refer you to the manuals out there. You need to learn how to recognise what a car is doing whilst entering, during and exiting a corner. If you are oversteering in but understeering out. That sortta thing. You need to be able to see whats happening and adjust the dampers to solve the problems. It's all about wieght transfer and it's something you need to learn to get the best from LFS.
And last but by no means least. Anti Roll.
I don't know whether this was just me or whether it's the FZR but I often found I got best result by running the rear anti roll considerable lower than the front. As much as 50 points difference on AS NAT. I couldn't explain why I find that worked. But it did so try some experimentation.
But at the end of the day. Despite any adice you might recieve the best way you are going to learn is by playing witht he settings and finding things out for yourself.
Happy racing.
I used mouse and FZR was my car.
I used the mouse buttons to acc and brake while the K/B was used for gear changes. This allows your left hand to go do keyboardy things like F12 and F11 without interferring to much with your driving.
Now. To mouse the FZR you gotta look at a few things. Start with windows. LFS takes it's mouse speed from windows so make sure you have the mouse speed as low as is comfortable and that any acceleration is taken off the mouse. Apparently screen resolution also makes a difference, hi res faster mouse speed. Lo res lower mouse speed.
Then once in LFS itself go to control settings and have a gander at the steer centre reduction. Try and set it as low as you can. This takes off the acceleration on the wheel turn rate. This should reduce any over reaction you get from oversteer and the like which sends you fishtailing into the nearest wall.
I think that about covers the settings side of things. Now to move onto the setup.
Now, don't take any of this as gospel. You have to work somethings out on your own and you need to know how to change your own settings fro different tracks, race distances and cirumstances. But this should give you a rough idea of where to look and what to adjust.
The easy ones first.
Steering. Reduce the degree of wheel turn as much as you can. I generally ran around 20degrees lock to lock, but you can up or lower that to your hearts content. By reducing the steering lock you lower the amount of wheel turn that your mouse is responsible for meaning you can be more accurate and progressive rather than hacking the car around.
Downforce. I ran quite high rear to aid in getting the traction down. But with the new patch you can reduce it quite alot. For AS. NAT I was running between 3 and 4 degrees at the front and around 11 to 14 on the rear depending on my mood. But again, play with these settings untill you find something you are happy with.
Brakes. Just back of the front bias ever so slightly and reduce the overall force untill you can perform a high speed stop with the front tyres just onthe edge of skidding. If you watch yout tyre temp graph if your front tyres are continously running red or bursting then the first thing you need to do is reduce the braking power. It does mean will have to take very careful note of your brake points and you might find pedal users outbraking you as they can brake later. But don't panic. You'll soon be up with them again. Just remember that you are different and that you havee your own way of racing. Don't try and out do them at every corner because you can't.
Speaking of which. Tyres.
Lower pressure, more grip, better braking, higher wear rate, lower top speed.
Higher pressure, less grip, less braking, lower wear rate, higher top speed.
Also if you run front pressure higher than the rear (Particularily the FZR) then you will be able to control the braking much better. If the rear pressure is higher than the front it has a tendancy to put the car on edge during heavy braking. If you are loosing the tail under straightline braking this could be a reason why. You will also notice a handling difference with your pressures. If you run them high you get a much crisper and tighter car. If you run them low then the grip might be higher but the car feels wallowy and not so connected to the tarmac. Again. Play with the settings and find whats best for you.
Whats next. Ah yes. Toe in.
For the FZR get toe in to about 3 or 4 degrees. You can run less if you prefer a looser back end and with the new patch the FZR doesn't punish half as bad as it did if you lost the back end. But with 3 degrees toe in on the rear it really helps you get the power down earlier with the mouse without the rear saying hello to the front. I would stay neutral on the front as I found with the mouse you don't have enough control to get the most from any steering traits that toe in can give you.
What about suspension I hear you say, well I'm am coming to that. Just making sure I havn't forgotten anything else.
Ah yes. Parallel steer. Again, personal preference I think. I used to run pretty high parallel steer prehaps as much as 80-90%. I felt it helped calm the steering down somewhat.
Ok. Suspension.
This is where it get serious. You really are going to have to play with the settings here because everything effects everything else here. But a couple of major pointer would be . . .
Don't run too stiff. You can't control a rigid car with a mouse, bounces you all over the place and you just don't have the control.
Make sure you are not riding the end stops, hit them and you don't have enough control over the car. Make sure your ride height can accomodate the rough patches of the circuit. With the lack of any ground effect ride hieght isn't super critical apart from upsetting your ride. And again. Learn how to adjust as you go. Some track can take lower ride heights and stiffer suspension whilst others you need to run high and soft.
Now with the different damper settings I am going to refer you to the manuals out there. You need to learn how to recognise what a car is doing whilst entering, during and exiting a corner. If you are oversteering in but understeering out. That sortta thing. You need to be able to see whats happening and adjust the dampers to solve the problems. It's all about wieght transfer and it's something you need to learn to get the best from LFS.
And last but by no means least. Anti Roll.
I don't know whether this was just me or whether it's the FZR but I often found I got best result by running the rear anti roll considerable lower than the front. As much as 50 points difference on AS NAT. I couldn't explain why I find that worked. But it did so try some experimentation.
But at the end of the day. Despite any adice you might recieve the best way you are going to learn is by playing witht he settings and finding things out for yourself.
Happy racing.
Started a BTCC season and waiting for V8's to kick off.
This dependance on tyres is not good. I look forward to the single make but the only problem will be that any team not already on that make has a lot of testing to catch up on. And I'll just stand aside whilst the flame roars past me but we all know which team benefits from tyre testing atm.
Renault did make a particular comment at Hock when they left the Michelins out the back of the Pit for all to see. They arn't happy with Michlelins performance and I don't blame them.
The performance differential between those two tyre manufacturers is so great that it detracts from the racing. Either open it open to any manufacturer and leave it to the teams to decide or close it down to one make. Either one or the other not to the ones who dangle enough carrots in front of Big Bernie.
As for the mass dampers, they are a well known engineering concept and I'm suprised it has taken F1 this long to include them. Fair play to them if they can get them to work and level out the field slightly. Hopefully the FIA will climb down over this one.
Renault did make a particular comment at Hock when they left the Michelins out the back of the Pit for all to see. They arn't happy with Michlelins performance and I don't blame them.
The performance differential between those two tyre manufacturers is so great that it detracts from the racing. Either open it open to any manufacturer and leave it to the teams to decide or close it down to one make. Either one or the other not to the ones who dangle enough carrots in front of Big Bernie.
As for the mass dampers, they are a well known engineering concept and I'm suprised it has taken F1 this long to include them. Fair play to them if they can get them to work and level out the field slightly. Hopefully the FIA will climb down over this one.
I would recommend learning how to make up some sets yourself.
We can give you lots of advice in what to look at.
What is your control method? Mouser or wheel.
If you are a wheel user you can probable get away with using a more unstable setup that rides the edge of performance whilst if you are a mouser then you will need a more stable platform.
Give us some feedback and we will try and help you.
We can give you lots of advice in what to look at.
What is your control method? Mouser or wheel.
If you are a wheel user you can probable get away with using a more unstable setup that rides the edge of performance whilst if you are a mouser then you will need a more stable platform.
Give us some feedback and we will try and help you.
I just don't like the way it looks . . 
.
TBH if there was a mid engined rear wheeler in LFS I would be driving that all the time. As it is I think the FZR is the closest thing.
Like I said I didn't actually drive the XRR for any real length of time. That turbo lag doesn't suit a mouser. Where as the Normally aspirated engine of the FZR allows a mouser to be alot smoother.
But I have still had some seriously close races with the XRR. You know when you are up against a good XRR driver. It was always the way, espiacially on the longer tracks like the Aston GP and the Grand Touring that you could put some distance over the XRR down the straights and the faster corners and then coming up to a complex of some slower corners . . WHAM. Right up your backside. I could never figure out where they got there corner speed from. Even when trying the same lines and speeds the FZR just can't do corners in the same way.
. TBH if there was a mid engined rear wheeler in LFS I would be driving that all the time. As it is I think the FZR is the closest thing.
Like I said I didn't actually drive the XRR for any real length of time. That turbo lag doesn't suit a mouser. Where as the Normally aspirated engine of the FZR allows a mouser to be alot smoother.
But I have still had some seriously close races with the XRR. You know when you are up against a good XRR driver. It was always the way, espiacially on the longer tracks like the Aston GP and the Grand Touring that you could put some distance over the XRR down the straights and the faster corners and then coming up to a complex of some slower corners . . WHAM. Right up your backside. I could never figure out where they got there corner speed from. Even when trying the same lines and speeds the FZR just can't do corners in the same way.
It's worth getting used to a slower mouse speed. It helped me alot with the big rear wheelers. Reducing the cars steering degree really helps too. And like I said, make sure your windows mouse acceleration is OFF!!
If you still have problems with the Rear wheel drives let us know. There are many other things a mouser can do to help himself. Don't give up on the FZR and XRR. They can be very rewarding once you get them sorted. Try and work on making your own setups rather than getting other peoples you will learn so much more and you will be able to setup any car anywhere once you learn the basics.
If you still have problems with the Rear wheel drives let us know. There are many other things a mouser can do to help himself. Don't give up on the FZR and XRR. They can be very rewarding once you get them sorted. Try and work on making your own setups rather than getting other peoples you will learn so much more and you will be able to setup any car anywhere once you learn the basics.
It's not only performance of the car that you need to look at. I think the FZR rewards the driver more for the setting up and driving skills. It took me ages to get a good setup for the FZR. Whilst (Although this is a gross generalisation because I didn't really drive it) the XRR is easier to drive out the box.
If you take the FZR's performance bonus away you take away the reward for all FZR's drivers efforts in getting it to work properly.
The car is a right handful. There ain't no denying that. Let me have some fun with it now that I've managed to get it running with the front pointing the way I'm going.
If you take the FZR's performance bonus away you take away the reward for all FZR's drivers efforts in getting it to work properly.
The car is a right handful. There ain't no denying that. Let me have some fun with it now that I've managed to get it running with the front pointing the way I'm going.
Yea. Will be interesting what you can't do with the manual box when that get's introduced. At the moment the only penalty for rapid shifting is the rear locking up and giving you a free ride to the nearest accident.
As a driver in the real world I do know that going from 5th to 2nd is not a good idea. The whole idea of engine breaking is to be progressive and smooth. But a manual box is still better for that. Auto changes down too late to be any use.
As a driver in the real world I do know that going from 5th to 2nd is not a good idea. The whole idea of engine breaking is to be progressive and smooth. But a manual box is still better for that. Auto changes down too late to be any use.
What those guys said.
I managed to get really sorted by reducing the windows mouse speed, the steer centre reduction and the actual steering degrees of the car itself.
I didn't know about the hi res lo res thing so even I've learnt something today.
Oh and make sure you don't have any mouse acceleration on in windows. . . that really makes a difference.
I managed to get really sorted by reducing the windows mouse speed, the steer centre reduction and the actual steering degrees of the car itself.
I didn't know about the hi res lo res thing so even I've learnt something today.
Oh and make sure you don't have any mouse acceleration on in windows. . . that really makes a difference.
From what I can gather it will be back in the REnault next week. But did ferrari not use their Mass damping system this week? Would it have anything to do with Schumacher playing to his home crowd? Seems rather coincidental that it would be the german Grand Prix that had the removal of the Mass dampers and yet they will be reinstated next week.
I'm sure renault would have run them this weekend after the stewards overrulled the FIA but maybe Renault had already put so much work into getting the cars to run without the mass dampers it was too late to put them back. Dunno though.
I'm sure renault would have run them this weekend after the stewards overrulled the FIA but maybe Renault had already put so much work into getting the cars to run without the mass dampers it was too late to put them back. Dunno though.
What car holds the AS. NAT WR? I havn't checked but I would bet it's an XRR that holds it. The XRR is a very fast car and can deal with the FZR in the corners. The FZR is a very good ont he straights but show it a corner and it struggles in comparison with the XRR.
Do you race these cars together on many other tracks? Or are you just AS. NAT. racers? Aston suites the FZR because of the long straights and fast sweeping corners. But put it on a narrower or a twistier track then it will struggle. I think they are well matched. But even so, look at real life GT races. The Astons are always winning and the Lambo's are always spinning out. Should they be re balanced? Adjusted to compensate for any advantages or disadvantages. If you don't like the car, change to a differenent one. Or if you like the car do what I did and adjust the settings, fettle and test untill you have a car that can beat all but the best. It's a hard thing to too and takes some work but within the world of LFS it's half the game.
Do you race these cars together on many other tracks? Or are you just AS. NAT. racers? Aston suites the FZR because of the long straights and fast sweeping corners. But put it on a narrower or a twistier track then it will struggle. I think they are well matched. But even so, look at real life GT races. The Astons are always winning and the Lambo's are always spinning out. Should they be re balanced? Adjusted to compensate for any advantages or disadvantages. If you don't like the car, change to a differenent one. Or if you like the car do what I did and adjust the settings, fettle and test untill you have a car that can beat all but the best. It's a hard thing to too and takes some work but within the world of LFS it's half the game.
I don't see any reason to balance out these two cars. They are very well matched as it is. They are different cars with different characturistics.
The FZR is a very quick car that once setup correctly makes it one of the best cars in LFS atm.
The FZR is a very quick car that once setup correctly makes it one of the best cars in LFS atm.
Yes. They do only have x amount of grip. But with engine braking you can control the braking to the rear of the car much better (In RWD anyway. Don't ask me about AWD or FWD.) You can garantee that (So long as you are in the right gear) you will not lock the rear wheel under braking. And what with the fronts already taking as much punishment as you can give them, anything you get from the rear of the car to help is a bonus.
Engine braking can also make a kinda anti lock device as it inhibits locking point of the wheel because they are conected to the engine. That means you have that much more friction to overcome before the wheels lock. It might not be much but the effect is there. Thats why you should get all your gear changed over with beofre you enter the corner. Because by changing gear on corner entry, or engaging/disengaging the clutch can cause the driven wheels to react against the increased/decreased engine friction. Prehaps causing a lock up or a spin up.
If your driving front wheel cars then the difference between engine braking and/or using the auto box might not be so obvious. But with the bigger engines and cars, in particular the rwd's, you need every area of control you can get. That includes the manual box.
Engine braking really does make a huge difference.
And there will quite a few of them if you continue to race with an Auto box. Maybe on the slower cars you can get away with it but the difference in the Big GT's would be marked.
Nope. Manual. Learn how to use it. It is the best way to go.
I had a setup that allowed me to have the 'second gear stoppa'. Dunno if anyone else can or use it or managed to get a setup that allows it but If I was coming up to a hairpin or a sharp second gear corner I could wang it from sixth to forth. Allow the rear wheels to slow then slam it into second. The braking power that gave you was amazing. If you timed it right you could be off the brakes, turning in, out braking another car and onto the apex all from the second gear. Using engine braking like that was great with the FZR because it helped to keep that big 'ol arse where it belonged.
The Second gear stoppa. Used to be able to come from miles back and just slam it up the inside. People would give me room thinking i had over cooked it and would run wide. Then stare in disbelieve at my retreating exhaust pipes. Love it.
Nope. Manual. Learn how to use it. It is the best way to go.
I had a setup that allowed me to have the 'second gear stoppa'. Dunno if anyone else can or use it or managed to get a setup that allows it but If I was coming up to a hairpin or a sharp second gear corner I could wang it from sixth to forth. Allow the rear wheels to slow then slam it into second. The braking power that gave you was amazing. If you timed it right you could be off the brakes, turning in, out braking another car and onto the apex all from the second gear. Using engine braking like that was great with the FZR because it helped to keep that big 'ol arse where it belonged.
The Second gear stoppa. Used to be able to come from miles back and just slam it up the inside. People would give me room thinking i had over cooked it and would run wide. Then stare in disbelieve at my retreating exhaust pipes. Love it.
I found that decreasing the rear anti roll really helped throught the nightmare chicane. I dunno what downforce you are using but maybe you should look at upping the rear downforce slightly. Increase the rear toe-in should help the rear end stick throughout the track. I used between 3 and 4 degrees on the rear but then I was a mouser. You might be able to control 2 degrees or so if you use a wheel.
My 'system' for that corner was braking on the forth gear change light. I adjusted the forth gear length untill it came on at the point I felt the brake point was. Down to third, brake early but off the brakes to tuurn in. I found that you need to brake earlier than you thought to get the car settled and back on the power. In fact early braking was the most important issue in the entry to the chicane. I havn't played LFS for a bit now but I was running 1.42's with the new patch so I couldn't be all that bad for a mouser at least.
I think what you really need to work on is the brake point. Just try a lot earlier than your normal route through and work from there. Get that chicane right and it's amazing the seconds it gives you down the main straight.
My 'system' for that corner was braking on the forth gear change light. I adjusted the forth gear length untill it came on at the point I felt the brake point was. Down to third, brake early but off the brakes to tuurn in. I found that you need to brake earlier than you thought to get the car settled and back on the power. In fact early braking was the most important issue in the entry to the chicane. I havn't played LFS for a bit now but I was running 1.42's with the new patch so I couldn't be all that bad for a mouser at least.
I think what you really need to work on is the brake point. Just try a lot earlier than your normal route through and work from there. Get that chicane right and it's amazing the seconds it gives you down the main straight.
Unless you have uninstalled it and reinstalled over three times you should only have to uncock it the once.
If you've run out then you'll just have to wait until the new month starts.
If you've run out then you'll just have to wait until the new month starts.
Manual is definatly the way of the future. If you want to stay competative manual changing gives you a lot more control. I also think that auto changes gear earlier so with manual you can push that extra bit from the engine. Also you don't ge that annoying mid corner change when your struggling for grip. Manual lets you hold a gear through corners or quick change down. I am an FZR driver and the gears are an intergral part of getting the car slowed down. An auto box doesn't quick change to a low enough gear early enough to help you brake whilst with a manual box you can jump from sixth to forth then rapid shift to second for some really smart out braking manouvers. If you can get that right you can pull of some amazing out braking moves.
It is a nessecary skill to pick up if you ever wnat to head up the pack for any length of time. It really added to my race speed. I was a mouser so it was in the brake zone that made me competative. Without a manual box you won't be able to get it sorted. Plus whilst mousing you can't have the car unbalanced with a gear change at a critical moment. Particularly with a heavy rear engined car like the FZR.
If you want full control of your automobile and competative racing you will not give an auto box a second thought. Persevere with maual changeing and have a look at your gear set. You will soon find that you can't understand why you stayed with auto for so long . . .
It is a nessecary skill to pick up if you ever wnat to head up the pack for any length of time. It really added to my race speed. I was a mouser so it was in the brake zone that made me competative. Without a manual box you won't be able to get it sorted. Plus whilst mousing you can't have the car unbalanced with a gear change at a critical moment. Particularly with a heavy rear engined car like the FZR.
If you want full control of your automobile and competative racing you will not give an auto box a second thought. Persevere with maual changeing and have a look at your gear set. You will soon find that you can't understand why you stayed with auto for so long . . .
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG