i dont understand what you want to have... This flashy burnout, which gives you extra grip, more smoke, or that tyres after burout would be more sticky? you can do burnout already, just for your personal fun
IRL there's no such thing as a grip meter with point for a good burnout. Reality uses physics much like LFS where heating the tires it what gives the grip advantage, LFS already models tire heat so all we need is a staging area.
I've always thought it was a bit odd that it's more or less impossible to do a burnout without setting an unrealistic brake bias. I spent a lot of my youth doing burnouts in various vehicles and on many surfaces. I can say from experience that most any RWD vehicle (and to some extent, FWD) can do a ripping good burnout in stock form.
In an undergeared heavy American barge on crappy tires with a big engine it's probably very easy on a poor quality road. In LFS we're always using at least sporty road tires on a grippy race track.
Yeah - it occurred to me that we are talking about a track surface with fresh radials. And yes; many of these cars were manuals. For example, I had a 1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R (It sure appears to me that the XRG and XRT are based on the Starion/Conquest.) And yes, even on brushed concrete (And any other surface you can think of - I was a hooligan, more so in that car than in some of the faster ones) you could easily perform a burnout with the factory brake bias on yokohamas. The rear brakes were in working order as I sometimes heard the inside rear-wheel lockup around fast corners.
The traction argument doesn't appear to be sound considering you can perform a burnout by adjusting the bias or stopping the car against a wall. The rear braking force is what doesn't appear to add up - Is it possible the static and kinetic brake friction coefficients aren't modeled properly?
NFS Prostreet Burnouts are absurd; the mini-game is very nearly a complete departure from reality. But yes - cars can perform burnouts and it should be possible to do as this is a simulation and tire temperature is modeled as well.
How is it unrealistic? I thought that IRL when you heat up the tires it gave you more grip? and plus I've seen drag racing vids where they have time to burnout before racing so why not in LFS. Realistic = Happens IRL!
it is realistic...and yes, before a race you always do a burnout.
Its heats up the tires, brings them up to proper tire pressure, and it makes the tires softer. *edit* (I forgot to add, it also cleans the tire of any debris from driving around the pits; rocks, trash, etc.) The rubber has oils in it bellow the surface that are dried up when cold and hard, but when you warm them up they seep out and basically acts like glue to the asphalt. Tires go bad after multiple heat cycles because the oils get used up.
I drag race in a real race car with slicks and such. I roll through the water until I'm on dry asphalt, pump the brakes and hold the line lock, start in 2nd, get to 5k rpm, shift to 3rd , let it stabilize at 5k, then drive out in 3rd until the tires stop spinning...then I put it into neutral.
Without doing that, or even if I vary from the normal routine a little bit, it shows a drastic change on starting line performance.
Yeah i agree with that too because that will be a lot more fun So yeah i wanted the burnout thing that give you more grip not the fancy girl etc. I think the burnout that produces more grip is a bigger step in improving LFS drag racing Thanks for looking at my thread
When you see drag racing IRL, there is usually a water "puddle" before the start line. I've often seen race officials wet the ground in that box, but I don't know what it's actually for. Can anyone enlighten me?
Burnouts are already possible. You can try it with e.g. RB4:
- Brake balance 95% front
- max brake Nm
- gearbox with a lot of transmission to the rear
- a short 1st gear
- let turbocharger rpm rise in 1st gear with pressed clutch and full brake and full throttle
- release clutch while still on full throttle and full brake
==> burnout, rear tyres get warmer and improve the grip
- release brake at the right moment to start
The water is used to help get the tire spinning, and it evaporates really quickly after the tires start getting hot. It puts less load on the engine, and in cars that don't have enough power to break traction, it allows them do a burnout.
My street car is an '01 camaro. I've got 295 wide z rated tires in the back off of a corvette. The posi isn't always strong enough to keep the power going to both tires if one starts to get grip. When you have an LSD with only one tire spinning it is very bad for the diff. Even with water it can be hard to keep both the tires spinning, and if there wasn't any water I don't think I could power brake it and get the tires spinning at all. The track is actually grippier where the cars do their burnouts than the starting line most of the time
