he is back on lfs username ghost921 online as of now....

thanks for these ruben

Quote from Scawen :

Victor is setting up a new web server, because the old one crashed very soon after being restarted.

Copying all the backups and making sure everything works before we switch back to normal on the new server.

Wouldn't like to give an estimate but maybe 1, 2, 3 hours...

Quote from Victor :

Probably age.

Currently we are bringing all services back up again. All website should now work.
The only thing not yet working is skins upload and download. I'm working on this still. But I hope that those will be working later tonight as well.

Quote from Victor :

not sure, but I think you mean stats from last night and daytime? Yeah those are lost.
Stats are recording again now though, I can see them being processed.

after all the hard work you have gone through with lfs i would like to say a massive thank you for taking some time of at least reading my thread on the forum and a big thank you to all the hard work you have put into lfs! now where did that s3 folder go to again?

i see, i got online again to find 5 maybe 6 servers i installed the update to find i now have 13 servers in the list and not the ones i want to join.

is it just me or is it the whole of lfs has gone down?

i cant connect to http://www.lfsworld.net/ (Oops! Google Chrome could not connect to www.lfsworld.net)

and lfs says (the program was unable to connect to the master server)

i did that and can see all servers now but its asking me to upgrade to 0.6b but i said no because it wants to install it all again so hassle of loosing my stuff.

EDIT

i pasted 0.6b .exe and its fine now.

Last edited by daveb948576, Thu, 27 Sep 2012 22:20.

i put the new patch on 0.6b8 but now i cant see any other old servers that i used to join, how can i see all the servers with different versions? i tried to join specific host but i got an error (different game code)

If you mean the cfg file its notepad

I to have the 7600gt 256mb gfx card, and athlon single core 3700+ stock is 2.2ghz but I'm over locked to 2.5 ghz, 1.7 gig ram and a 6 year old as rock motherboard using windows 7, I have around 100 fps but with the CPU set at stock I get 60-70 fps. Lfs uses about 23% of the gpu, the ram is a little low but useable, the CPU gets 99% load when lfs is in full use, I would if it was my PC check your CPU temp with Everest and increase the CPU frequency in the system BIOS from 200 to 225 and then give lfs a try,

ok a 20g tube of grease was bought and nearly half of this tube was fitted to the gears with no joy in resolving the noise, extreme steps are now being researched! check my other thread!

http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=1703961#post1703961

fantastic!! thanks very much for your input with the maths which i'm no good at, the 'hole' that's there is 99mm. the belt protruding from the pulley is 0.6mm so the pulley can be 98mm at a push. but 97mm would be ideal, can you work out what the ratio would be with a 97mm pulley please.

although i'm a little puzzled which doesn't take much assuming the pinion and larger wheel pulley is the same size in diameter as the standard then i can't see it making that much difference with overall gearing regards to acceleration/power/speed?

i've also wondered if it worth looking at the sprockets and chains? (EDIT no the pitch is 6mm)

Last edited by daveb948576, Fri, 13 Apr 2012 15:15.

[img=http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/1812/g25beltrouteedit.th.jpg]
[img=http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/498/img20120412152511.th.jpg]
[img=http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/6375/img20120412152545.th.jpg]
[img=http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/2797/img20120412154452.th.jpg]
[img=http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/4990/img20120412154246.th.jpg]
[img=http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/624/img20120412153218.th.jpg]

I just found something out!

The motors rotation will be backwards!

If the stock setup has a motor that turns clockwise to turn the wheel to the left then if I fit a belt then all the gears rotate in the same direction including the wheel. Ups! I'm hoping that just by changing the polarity of the motor will be enough to send it the other way or the right way so to speak!

Just a thought the optical sensor will have the opposite readings, what to do??

Last edited by daveb948576, Thu, 12 Apr 2012 22:07.

its the only thing stopping me that pulley, the amount of teeth is going to bo over 100 but haven't figured it out yet.

pics coming shortly...

pics are being uploaded, let me know if the link don't work.

http://my.imageshack.us/v_images.php

also if you can see in this picture i want to move the motors up and out of the way, allowing more surface around the pinions for the belt and to get the cogs away from each other, i can only move them up there because any further below has no space for the larger motors on the back as the rack is in the way,

the red circled area would need to be cut off and have 6 or so holes drilled and then have the new larger cog fixed for the belt to go around.

there would not be enough room on the shafts for the pinion to also hold a grub screw, two flanges and the surface area with a 10mm belt width. making a nice tight push fit and stuck with alraldite should do the job.

Last edited by daveb948576, Thu, 12 Apr 2012 20:19.

ok i've measured and looked and looked again and taken pictures and thought and thought and thought and started to hurt my head! BUT!! this can be done!!

i need to source a pulley that's got over 100 teeth and has 2.5mm pitch and is 9mm width, the diameter of this pulley can be no greater than 96mm as there wont be enough room inside the g25 casing.

i can see they do timing bars and may need to order one just to have 9mm shaved off the end and then drill and tap securing holes and mount it to the wheel in place of the plastic gears/pre-loader. the pre-loader and gear will have to be cut off! the price for this though is like $200 but that's not going to happen, custom items can be made to order so i'll be emailing some companies.
shouldn't be that hard to make one up surely?
http://www.nuovatrasmissione.com/dataload/home/y27qqi.jpg

regarding the offset, the large geared cog would need to have a recess of around 3mm to sit in-line with the motor/pinion. so nothing really needs to be made in regards to lining up the belt, not sure if you can make a larger toothed cog with 96mm diameter, 9mm width and 2.5mm pitch teeth stan.distortion?

the motor pinion(s) need to be 2.5mm pitch and 7mm outside diameter with a 3mm inside bore diameter which can be drilled and then glued tight onto the motor shafts, the shaft diameter is 3mm. these need to be flanged and need to be able to handle a 6mm belt (10mm belts are available but space is tight!) these pinions are easily to acquire.

the belt needs to be 6mm wide and have a 2.5mm pitch, the length to this point is unknown as i need to remount the motors with the pinions on and with the gear attached to the wheel and then measure it, i could do a mock up but it wouldn't be accurate although. i will make either one or both of the motors adjustable or fixed if i can use a spring loaded tensioner one on either side would be ideal but then i am limited on to how much tension i can put up the belt if it begins to slip or jump teeth.

thoughts??

i'm going to head for more on the side of the 10mm belt width! seems do-able as the motor shaft length is over 10mm already so the pulley should fit!

Last edited by daveb948576, Thu, 12 Apr 2012 18:15.

Quote from stan.distortion :

Jumping could be a problem due to the angle the belt is driven at, cam belts cover at least 90 degrees of the pulley so the teeth are effectively pulled hard together, you have about 45 degrees of contact each side so belt tension would need to be doubled to get the same kind engagement. Doubt it would be a problem but if there is an easy way around it then its a potential problem avoided.

i was also thinking this but with moving the motors further away and having a longer belt would aid into having more surface area around the motors pinion but a longer belt would give more stretch and may give some wobble/vibration/unreliability

What way is your offset? Could a drilled aluminium or acetal plate line things up or is it the opposite direction where you would need a dish shaped mounting for alignment? Would suggest acetal or even plywood for that, both are strong enough for what your doing and a lot easier to hand work than aluminium. If you need an odd shaped mounting made I could turn one out and put it in the post, I have 80mm dia acetal and its really fast stuff to machine, would probably work out about 10-20 euro +post depending on complexity.

i haven't taken the wheel apart yet to measure to see what kind of offset would be needed, going to take it apart now, be back soon with some pictures. and thanks for the offer, the problem i still have is getting a larger geared cog with the correct toothed pitch for the belt, they do a large pulley but then the size of the pitch is increased to 5mm from 2.5mm giving larger teeth which would be no good at all for a smaller sized pinion being 5 toothed and around 7mm diameter. i will measure the diameter of the pulleys/gears inside the g25 and see what the closest is can find to match it with the correct pitch pulleys and belt.

with the correct tension the belt "shouldn't" jump?

trial and error?

other wheels have a belt and they don't jump out of sync.

the site ondrive also sells tensioners, maybe something to look into if they do slip, i don't think any teeth would strip as the current gears are metal to plastic, the belts are made out of a tougher material than that plastic gear on the wheel and they don't strip.

it looks to me that a belt can be sourced, cheap and they are readily available and the smaller motor pinion is easy to get hold of, the thing i'm having trouble with is the wheel gear as it has to be mounted 'offset' as it cant be bolted directly to the face as it would stick out past the motor and wouldn't be 'inline' the belt would just fall off when turning the wheel around.

even cars, (twin cam + quad cam), they have belts put under more strain and pressure and go for a couple of hundred thousand miles and they don't jump (with wear and tear they do but it takes years) much more heat is produced in a car engine also.

Last edited by daveb948576, Thu, 12 Apr 2012 10:13.

Quote from tristancliffe :

Ondrive is a good place to start. And there are various calculators for working out centre distances, belt lengths and pulley diameters.

excellent, thanks!

ok one of these belts
dont know which one yet as i need to take my wheel apart.
http://www.ondrives.com/pulley ... tch-6mm-wide-t-belts.html

two of these pulleys for the motors
still unsure of which exactly as need to measure the diameter of standard motor pinion
http://www.ondrives.com/pulley ... ulley-6mm-wide-belts.html

just need to find or ask for a pulley that will be the same diameter as this stock g25 larger wheel pulley, with an offset because the pulley can not be bolted directly to the wheel because it would stick out and wouldn't be in-line with the motors. still hunting. . .

something like this for a quick image

Last edited by daveb948576, Thu, 12 Apr 2012 08:41.

was a joke, now back on subject please. . .

anyone here have any knowledge of belts and pulleys, where to order?

http://www.fingertechrobotics.com/how-to_pulley_belt.php

i think, that i may of come up with a solution to the whole g25 noise problem. . . i'm not sure yet but i'll be doing some more research on this first before i go ahead and start doing things. . . i'll try to explain my idea a little.. . .

ok we all know the motor has a small metal gear and the wheel has a large plastic cog with a pre-loader which is w@nk. . this is what i'm thinking about converting it to. . . BELT driven!!

it would be possible to re-mount the motors on the same plate but further apart away from the wheel gear, put them on a slider on one of the bolt holes to make the motor more adjustable as at the moment they are fixed, then remove the standard cog and fit one of these. . . .

copy and paste this link into your web browser
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/MXL-TIMING-BELT-PULLEYS-0-08-PITCH-SIZE-15-10-PCS-/12/!BsGId5gEGk~$(KGrHqEH-CEEvQT2HuSGBL2e+0JF4!~~_35.JPG

press on this link
http://www.deepskyparts.com/wp-conte.../08/BELTS6.jpg

correct size and tooth amount hasn't been worked out yet, the tooth amount wont matter too much its the size and the pitch of the teeth that will, then find or make a larger cog for the wheel gear with the same 2mm pitch tooth, chop up the original plastic cog and fix the new larger plastic or even metal cog to the wheel, secure the large cog, mount the motors and the belt, adjust the tension using the motors on the slider and hey presto, one belt driving logitech g25?

idea copyrighted and protected

so tell me what you think?

i think, that i may of come up with a solution to the whole g25 noise problem. . . i'm not sure yet but i'll be doing some more research on this first before i go ahead and start doing things. . . i'll try to explain my idea a little.. . .

ok we all know the motor has a small metal gear and the wheel has a large plastic cog with a pre-loader which is w@nk. . this is what i'm thinking about converting it to. . . BELT driven!!

it would be possible to re-mount the motors on the same plate but further apart away from the wheel gear, put them on a slider on one of the bolt holes to make the motor more adjustable as at the moment they are fixed, then remove the standard cog and fit one of these. . . .

copy and paste this link into your web browser
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/MXL-TIMING-BELT-PULLEYS-0-08-PITCH-SIZE-15-10-PCS-/12/!BsGId5gEGk~$(KGrHqEH-CEEvQT2HuSGBL2e+0JF4!~~_35.JPG

press on this link
http://www.deepskyparts.com/wp ... ploads/2011/08/BELTS6.jpg

correct size and tooth amount hasn't been worked out yet, the tooth amount wont matter too much its the size and the pitch of the teeth that will, then find or make a larger cog for the wheel gear with the same 2mm pitch tooth, chop up the original plastic cog and fix the new larger plastic or even metal cog to the wheel, mount secure the large cog, mount he motors and the belt adjust the tension using the motors on the slider and hey presto, one belt driving logitech g25?

idea copyrighted and protected

so tell me what you think?

i understand that, at the moment it feels as if the original grease is no longer up to the job.

seems rather noisy, i dont even know of an rc car that makes this much noise with a twin motor spinning at 12000rpm~

i'd like something thick to take up some of the slack between the cogs and in the hope that the grease will stay on the cogs rather than fly off when spinning.

i ordered marine grease in the end.

i'm hoping i don't get any complications with plastic on plastic.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1108 ... .m1439.l2649#ht_500wt_922

ever heard of or used marine grease, supposed to be really sticky.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mari ... em19ceaad807#ht_500wt_922

ok so out of the grease's that i have added a link to which is the best to choose? for quality!

thinking about going for white lithium grease, what do you think?

Last edited by daveb948576, Sun, 8 Apr 2012 15:43.