I put this on the Oculus forum, but figured it would be good to post it here too:

Dropped in the DLL and the Oculus connected as expected. Windows 7 SP1 x64, Oculus 1.3, CV1

However, the perspective warping (?) is not working correctly. As you look side to side, or up and down, the portions that reach the edge of the view are squished strangely. Lucky's Tale didn't do this, so I'm not sure what's up. It's most immediately noticeable when you're on the settings screen, it distorts in this strange way.

Also, this strange distortion only happens in the Oculus, the mirrored view looks fine, and perspective 'works' as you expect it to.

Quote from pinoykid13 :

I use an Xbox control for LFS

left thumb stick: steering
right thumb stick: only using the down motion for clutch and only the clutch
RT and LT: gas and brake
RB and LB: shift up and down
Y: horn
A: handbrake
the rest. meh....something not so important

and how do u (steer) control the car ...i drift all over the place with my controller, cant go straight more then 20 meters ...

Quote from djgizmo68 :

But it works very well.

BUT, for some reason, using the wireless controller EATS batterys, even without rumble!

you will need to set steering smooth to full so it drives nice

ho u do that mate? ...i cant find the menu ...

Quote from dadge :

no it's not. you have control of both axis. imo, problem solved.

ok ...i want to use it too the 360 controller ...and i did like this: in the Controlls menu ive setup the Throttle/break axes to combined ...then u set your throttle and break in Axes/FF: Throttle/break combined : select RY axes ...then you will have, Throttle/break combined: axes 2, i have here : invert 0 ...and i play like a normal racing game but cant seem to adjust the smooth driving ....ill search more ...hope i helped.

Haha, I'm going to revive this old thread!

I've played fisheye quake a little while back, and it popped into my head while I was racing a few nights ago.

The single most aggravating aspect of racing in a sim is the field of view. Even with a helmet on, when I'm autocrossing or at a track day, I still have decent situational awareness.

I'm all for utilizing either the fisheye or the cylinder distortion methods mentioned above. Yes, they do distort your view somewhat, but they satisfy the basic needs for racing:

1) The track ahead must be seen in high resolution to accurately judge oncoming features and obstacles. This is usually aided by a low fov, making the oncoming track appear larger, essentially allocating it a larger 'pixel budget'. If all we did was hotlap, then this would be okay.

2) Awareness of other cars in overtaking situations. It doesn't matter if they're distorted, so long as you have an idea of where they are in relation to you. Even a band of 20 - 40 pixels, that showed the area next to you in a sort of super-squished view would provide the cue so you don't turn into the fellow next to you.

3) Mirrors simply don't have the resolution they should. On a high resolution setup (1600x1200 and up) with some anisotropic filtering and anti aliasing, the forward view down the track is actually pretty good in terms of comparison to the level of detail your eyes can resolve in real life. The mirrors however, especially the 'in cockpit' ones are not that great. Why not grab the upper portion of the screen, and divide it into three zones, one for each mirror? You still have to shift your eyes up, but they become much more useful.

I still think that one of the best resolved simulations in terms of awareness was Falcon 3.0, in the track/eye view. It was criticized by some for being unrealistic, but it did a much better job of replicating the true awareness, as opposed to focusing on drawing a pretty picture.

Anyways, that's my 2 cents, love the game!

I like this discussion, so I thought I would throw some of my own experiences onto the fire.

Bedding processes and results will vary from brand to brand. Recently, I switched over to Carbotech pads for track usage, and they provide specific directions for bedding them properly. This process includes both the pads and the rotors.

In these particular pads, there was certainly a 'green fade' that caused quite a large amount of smoke to come out after getting them up to temperature. Following the requisite cool-down, they performed flawlessly on track, hauling the car down for a long sweeper and hairpin over and over.

As far as the rotor half of the equation, they do mention in the literature that there is an amount of material transferred from the pad to the surface during the bed in. To maximize your benefit, they recommend either brand new rotors, freshly turned (if you used a different brand prior) to expose a new working surface or simply use a rotor that has already had the same brand of pad bedded in to it.

Following the bedding, the rotor had picked up a grayish tinge, which is the same colour as the pad.

Does anyone else here have experience with other brands that can shed some light?