It does on some race cars, depending on caster and camber settings, the type and size of tires, ... I've noticed this on some go-karts. ISI games exaggerate the decrease in caster effect, but I don't have a problem with exaggerated effect in order to compensate for the lack of real physical forces while sitting in my chair staring at a monitor.
It does on some race cars, depending on caster and camber settings, the type and size of tires, ... I've noticed this on some go-karts. ISI games exaggerate the decrease in caster effect, but I don't have a problem with exaggerated effect in order to compensate for the lack of real physical forces while sitting in my chair staring at a monitor.
Well, generally my PBs are about half a second off WR pace over a long lap. On shorter circuits I can generally get within 2 or 3 tenths.
Again, not strictly true. Have a look at the race results for the last two rounds of the GFC races (rounds 2 and 3). You can see all the race results here:
http://www.gentlefoot.com/LFS/forum/viewforum.php?f=30
You can see by the lap-by-lap results that the fox winners of both these races were running pretty close to WR (within half a second allowing for full fuel tanks) consistently for approximately 75 minutes. In both these races the eventual winners drove at this pace for the full 75 minutes without error.
That is the standard that is required to win races in the GFC nowadays.
I'd like to ask the same thing. G25 ffb is clipping a lot at even 50% of ingame force!
I seriously doubt that you could feel even more if you toned the ffb level down to 20-30%.
"Actually GTR2, Race and EVERY sim based on the ISI engine is wrong when it comes to understeer. Steering does not go light IRL like ISI try to make you believe 
"
so gtr2 race07 and rfactor wheel goes light when front wheels skid because they belong to isi?
well i just tested toca3 and wheel goes light with front wheels skidding
so i understand all main simulators in the market, this last 4 want to make us believe something false except lfs
wow thats exactly what happens to me the whole world is crazy but me
"so gtr2 race07 and rfactor wheel goes light when front wheels skid because they belong to isi?
well i just tested toca3 and wheel goes light with front wheels skidding
so i understand all main simulators in the market, this last 4 want to make us believe something false except lfs
wow thats exactly what happens to me the whole world is crazy but me
So what's your thinking behind 270 deg in profiler and 220 ingame with wheel turn compensation at 1 , when you have a G25 ?
Which car is this for,the mrt ?
Or do you change the wheel rotation per car ?
My G25, DFP and Momo go light when the front wheels let go completly... But then again it depends on how much they're still hanging on. For example if you pop the front tires and try to turn the wheel WILL feel extremly light. When its really hot and worn tires it does go pretty light. If you still have them with maximum grip and you turn it wont go as light.
SO, imo, it depends on the conditions of the tires.
then maybe is the formula force ex
so if i try a momo will the wheel feel lighter with oversteering?
so if i try a momo will the wheel feel lighter with oversteering?
All ISI sims try to work out what state the car is in then merge a selection of FF effects to create what they think you should be feeling through the steering wheel. It is well known that ISI sims are VERY VERY overdone in an understeer situation. Just look on RSC, there are loads of thread where people put forward their own setting on how the effects are mixed to make it feel more natural.
BTW: The Toca games physics are more arcade than real so ignore what that or any other "game" tell you with FFB.
The sims you should be looking at for correct behaviour (Or more realistic behaviour) are LFS, NK, NKP and RBR. All of these sims work out the forces that are acting on the front wheels and transmit those up the steering column. They are all driven off the physics engine directly and not through an effects calculator.
IRL most of the time the steering never goes light like in ISI and the other games you talk about. They give the light steer effect because you are missing the feeling of G (seat of the pants feel) that tells you when you are in understeer etc. It is an aid BUT it is WRONG.
I can't see you age from your profile but if you are old enough to drive take your car to an EMPTY large parking lot and try for yourself.
What happens is that as you add steering lock you feel pressure build and then as you start to understeer the pressure will stop rising BUT not drop unless you get really out of shape. This can be felt as a drop to some people because your brain expects the forces to keep rising but they just level.
Some conditions like wet tarmac etc will effect the feel and if you have a FWD car and push too much power through the wheels they will get lighter if you spin them by putting too much power through them.
What you feel through the steering IRL is very setup, situation and weather conditions dependent along with if your cars power steering etc mask the subtle feelings etc. In the end of the day, most of the feel while driving comes through your body via G force, the steering does not give as much info as some people believe. The FF in LFS is not as bad as you think, you are just getting body feel and steering feel confused
This is why the real-feel plugin was created for ISI sims, the original FF is so poor its just a joke.
I tested again in G25 and indeed if the tires are still cold or ''green'' so a bit warm it won't be light. However burn them a little and get the to red and it should be lighter when you understeer.
Wheel comp at 1 just means the amount of lock added is a bit more consistent.
Yeah - I change the rotation for different cars. But I nearly always drive the FOX. I would use these settings for any single seater but tend to increase the rotation for road/gtr cars.
On a steering note. For those of you not fortunate enough to have a G25......(This includes me) What I have found the last little while is, if you reduce the steering % down from 30 degrees to lets say 20 degrees you get way more precis steering. My wheel is a Logitech formula force GP.
This has helped my driving considerable.
) What I have found the last little while is, if you reduce the steering % down from 30 degrees to lets say 20 degrees you get way more precis steering. My wheel is a Logitech formula force GP.This has helped my driving considerable.
What effect does this have compared to simply lowering the degrees of rotation?
I don't know for sure...all I know is my wheel only turns 180 from lock to lock. By lowering the degrees, I have felt the steering be more precis, I don't know why it just is for me.
Maybe someone with more knowledge can tell me if I'm full of shit or not.
That is normal. A big GTR style car might only run with 15deg at the wheels while having 540deg steering lock. It is normally forced on them by the car geometry and what they can get away with in the wheel arch.
What it means is you are turning the wheel more to get the same effect so it feels less snappy. 360deg steering lock with 15deg on the wheels is the same as 720deg with 30deg on the wheels feel wise, you just cant get the same extreme to catch when out of shape.
That makes sense.
Thanks for confirming my sanity for another day at least
Why? Until somebody actual gets something right, everyone else is getting it wrong.
Just saying is all
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how much steering is best
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FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG