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Clutch temp info
(106 posts, started )
No problem
Quote from tailing :Honestly if your having problems then your doing something wrong. I just spent another couple hours racing the bmw online and the clutch is coolest at the end of the race and this is pushing hard. The only time I've got it to slip was when deliberately abusing it just to test what some of you are saying.
I've used a clutch in LFS for a long time and it's finally just about right, coupled with the other engine/gear shifting improvements this patch has lifted the level in terms of realistic racing in LFS

We didn't have any problems with this car either. But some of the other cars we did. The UFR seems to be the easiest to overheat. Once your on the road to overheating you have to baby the car to get it back.
#27 - col
At first I though it was weird, but after a while I started to realize what was causing the clutch overheating (at least for me). It was not during normal clean racing, I think it was happening during pileups and spins. My traditional LFS way of dealing with a spin was to mash or feather the throttle just to keep everything moving until I was facing in the right direction. I guess that in the new patch, if you mash the gas in a forward gear while you are traveling backwards or while you are pushing against a wall or other cars, you will slip the clutch. It seems to me that this driver behaviour is unrealistic so folks dont see overheated clutches in real life racing as much, but it's common in LFS - I suppose that if we all treat these situations as though it were a real car, we would hit the clutch as soon as there was a 'moment' and release it once facing in the correct direction... ?
I guess there will be lots of special cases and details, but I reckon this new feature will just teach us more realistic ways of dealing with our clutch during 'racing incidents'.

Col
Quote from col :At first I though it was weird, but after a while I started to realize what was causing the clutch overheating (at least for me). It was not during normal clean racing, I think it was happening during pileups and spins. My traditional LFS way of dealing with a spin was to mash or feather the throttle just to keep everything moving until I was facing in the right direction. I guess that in the new patch, if you mash the gas in a forward gear while you are traveling backwards or while you are pushing against a wall or other cars, you will slip the clutch. It seems to me that this driver behaviour is unrealistic so folks dont see overheated clutches in real life racing as much, but it's common in LFS - I suppose that if we all treat these situations as though it were a real car, we would hit the clutch as soon as there was a 'moment' and release it once facing in the correct direction... ?
I guess there will be lots of special cases and details, but I reckon this new feature will just teach us more realistic ways of dealing with our clutch during 'racing incidents'.

Col

BLOODY GOOD POINT THAT MAN

I think you may have hit the nail on the head there Col
The clutch indeed stays cool in normal racing, but I still think that it gets cooked really soon.

In a test with the XFG I managed to overheat it in 3sec. when it just reaches the ¼ of the clutch temperature bar and becomes red, it slips like hell… almost unusable.
I've over-heated the clutch in a road car doing a couple of full speed starts, during my younger less responsible days

Basically you could drive normally but try to pull off quick and it just slips. Oh and the smell is not good!
Quote from col :At first I though it was weird, but after a while I started to realize what was causing the clutch overheating (at least for me). It was not during normal clean racing, I think it was happening during pileups and spins. My traditional LFS way of dealing with a spin was to mash or feather the throttle just to keep everything moving until I was facing in the right direction. I guess that in the new patch, if you mash the gas in a forward gear while you are traveling backwards or while you are pushing against a wall or other cars, you will slip the clutch. It seems to me that this driver behaviour is unrealistic so folks dont see overheated clutches in real life racing as much, but it's common in LFS - I suppose that if we all treat these situations as though it were a real car, we would hit the clutch as soon as there was a 'moment' and release it once facing in the correct direction... ?
I guess there will be lots of special cases and details, but I reckon this new feature will just teach us more realistic ways of dealing with our clutch during 'racing incidents'.

Col

But how is the clutch slipping in situations as you've addressed here? Or by doing burnouts, or stalling? Unless the clutch is very weak, how is it slipping? The clamping pressure of a clutch is VERY high. If you dump the clutch IRL, you will either stall, have a very quick launch, or wheelspin. The clutch should not slip unless you have a very weak or very worn clutch plate.

Wheelspin will not slip a clutch, the slip is between the tires and the road. With a decent clutch (not worn out), there is nothing that will allow it to slip other than you depressing your clutch pedal some and allowing the clutch to start to disengage.
after spending a few days at elvington air strip dragracing a few years back i did manage to get my imprezas clutch to slip

after 35 runs in a day (full blown 5k+ drag starts on grippy concrete)

it took about 5 mins and a easy run to sort it out and it was back to normal.
i have approx 280lbft available from 4300rpm
Quote from mrodgers :...
With a decent clutch (not worn out), there is nothing that will allow it to slip other than you depressing your clutch pedal some and allowing the clutch to start to disengage.

That is the condition for a standard car with a standard clutch.. For tuned cars with standard clutch you might reach a point where the engine is stronger than the clutch...
i've driven a manual for 19 years, and never had a problem with the clutch, but on the other hand, i've seen (or should i say smelled?) someone overheat a clutch in under 2 minutes while trying to parallel park. so i think it's quite realistic that some people think the new lfs clutch overheats too fast, while others don't see any heat build up at all. i don't really think there is a happy medium. either you are doing it right, and the clutch lasts a long time, or you are doing it wrong, and it burns out really fast.
In some cars (eg XFG) the clutch is useless after 3 sec of sliping… it just isn’t right, even though I don’t have problems in racing…
in normal racing and switching gears i do not heat up my clutch, but once you come to a stop (i.e. for a pitstop) and have to make a 2nd start from a standstill, my clutch is already red and slipping, which is surely a bit overdone.
btw, i am using manual clutch with a button in lack of a third pedal
Didn't someone report a bug that the clutch heats if the wheels are spinning? There's too many posts to find it now though.
good posts about the clutch-thingie

clutch heats up too fast IMO..

anyway, dont know if this is the right place, but..

i misshift a lot! i'm not gonna say it's the dev's fault. it's probably just that i have been driving wrong. X10 (and earlier) made it possible to be really sloppy with blipping and there was the "gear pre-select" -feature.


we just have to un-learn!

suggestion:

nasty grinding noise from transmission when the driver does something wrong and the gear won't engage.

discuss.
#39 - JTbo
So yesterday, I drove 20 laps on Blackwood with the FZR, manual clutch setting, racing against the AI, and my clutch "wear" was maybe...10%?

I will just come out and say it: do some you really know how to shift properly? Sorry to come across as a jerk, but I was on racing against the AI and I never once had a problem with slippage.
Most of us didn’t say that we have problems in normal shifting, but that in general the clutch overheats excessively fast… and you can understand that after you repeat some slow starts with mid high revs…
Quote from kaynd :Most of us didn’t say that we have problems in normal shifting, but that in general the clutch overheats excessively fast… and you can understand that after you repeat some slow starts with mid high revs…

I should have been more explicit; I meant reading all the various posts and threads relating to this.
Having tried the XRT for a bit tonight, there are no clutch temp problems when upshifting, and even during hard downshifting without blipping, the temp increase is gone by the end of the next straight anyway. I did manage to burn out the clutch by pulling away just 3 times, but then first gear was good for over 60mph, which is pretty non-standard for a road car, so hardly a fair test, although it does seem a touch quick.
Only problems I've had with the clutch have come from forgetting to get off the gas during a spin.

I was able to baby it around for 5 laps or so at ~2sec off my normal pace and bring it back.
100% Agree Ben. And VERY good point about the gearing; 60mph in 1st in a 250 ft/lb car is very tall and needs a lot of slippage.
#46 - JTbo
And you can always drive FZ5, that has clutch slip control

With that car you can flat shift all you like, it won't even warm the clutch.

Traction control acts as clutch slip control if you did not know
Quote from Not Sure :i misshift a lot! i'm not gonna say it's the dev's fault. it's probably just that i have been driving wrong. X10 (and earlier) made it possible to be really sloppy with blipping and there was the "gear pre-select" -feature.

Are you using three pedals? If so, you will probably want to change your clutch pedal so that it does not need to be completely depressed in order to disengage. This can be done using the calibration lock option.

That way, when you press your clutch pedal, say, 3/4 of the way, LFS thinks it's completely depressed. It makes mis-shifts a lot less likely.
Quote from Cue-Ball :Are you using three pedals? If so, you will probably want to change your clutch pedal so that it does not need to be completely depressed in order to disengage. This can be done using the calibration lock option.

That way, when you press your clutch pedal, say, 3/4 of the way, LFS thinks it's completely depressed. It makes mis-shifts a lot less likely.

i use three pedals (four if i count the e-brake). i also use dxtweak to adjust sensitivity. haven't tried the (mis)calibration thing, i'll give it a shot.

i wonder if this would have something to do with bad shifts:

in dxtweak the values for my clutch axis (actually the throttle axis of Microsoft SideWinder FF USB) jump up and down somewhat, and in general it looks a lot less smooth than dfp pedals. should it be this way? dirty pot or really low resolution?
Quote from JTbo :Hmpfh

looool...daaamn,carcontrol = nada

subject:I think we all agree that the clutch is wearing to fast.

as some mentioned..a few starts with mid rev makes the car nondriveable.
if they just turned it down slightly,that would improve for many drivers.i tried some cars..ss and saloons but have no problem driving them fully manual.but there are some people that cant.
ex: a friend of mine has a injury to his both feet,meaning he cant lift quick from the trottle.(no clutch)
we mapped a clutchkey to the steeringwheel so he could shift.
problem is that if u do this..the shifting still makes clutch overheat fast..he still cant lift from the trottle..
that was no problem before they took awat trottleblip etc.

if LFS is going to the "no n00bs can drive" sim..then we better try to make the cars handicap aproved (joke)

ex: alex zanardi..no legs..drives with no problems.

apologys for bad spelling..

Clutch temp info
(106 posts, started )
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