If you look at where you choose the tyres it tells you there optimum temperature. You want the outside edge of the tyre doing the most work to be at that optimum temperature when you turn into a corner. You will see it increase as you corner and then decrease again on the straight. The inside edge should be about 10 degrees hotter.
If you look at where you choose the tyres it tells you there optimum temperature. You want the outside edge of the tyre doing the most work to be at that optimum temperature when you turn into a corner. You will see it increase as you corner and then decrease again on the straight. The inside edge should be about 10 degrees hotter.
maybe they confuse temperature and longevity. adjustments for temperature (less braking force, higher pressure, more turn bias to the end of the car that's not as hot) is usually necessary.
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Thankyou guys for the setup helpers
After making my first own setup for ther FXO @ Fern bay Gold, I'm happy to sy I was pretty succesful. For a 20 lap race my tyres were birhgt green most of the way heating up a little into orange on the insides and middle. It wasn't the fastest set but for me it felt good and was adapted to my driving style and lasted the whoel 20 laps so I'm happy. Especially since keeping tyres in the zone on Fern bay is difficult.
Thanks for all the advice I'll definately be making more sets for myself.
After making my first own setup for ther FXO @ Fern bay Gold, I'm happy to sy I was pretty succesful. For a 20 lap race my tyres were birhgt green most of the way heating up a little into orange on the insides and middle. It wasn't the fastest set but for me it felt good and was adapted to my driving style and lasted the whoel 20 laps so I'm happy. Especially since keeping tyres in the zone on Fern bay is difficult.
Thanks for all the advice I'll definately be making more sets for myself.
I'm stuck again.Not sure how to setup the dampers. Why is bump damping set to max on some sets in the XFR when it should be no more than about 75% of the rebound damping according to the setup guide? Is it the springs or dampers that affect how well the car travels over bumps? And is it stiffer springs or dampers that affect tyre wear? Still trying to get the hang of this but not having much luck.
That is to exploit the locked diff-model the most... The small GTRs torquesteer like no other car, so they want to keep the front as stiff and flat as possible...
Both the springs and the dampers affect how a car reacts with bumps (it's more about the dampers though, it sometimes even voids the 75%-rule in the setup guide)... You'll have to find a good mixture between both... As for tire wear: Everything from wings to steering affects tire wear... It's far more to it than the suspension bit... Again, it's about the compromise: You don't want your tires to slip too much, but at the same time keep enough cornering ability as necessary...
Both the springs and the dampers affect how a car reacts with bumps (it's more about the dampers though, it sometimes even voids the 75%-rule in the setup guide)... You'll have to find a good mixture between both... As for tire wear: Everything from wings to steering affects tire wear... It's far more to it than the suspension bit... Again, it's about the compromise: You don't want your tires to slip too much, but at the same time keep enough cornering ability as necessary...
You will find alot of sets for FWD are setup to be oversteer sensitive which is generally done by extreme settings like massively overdamped, this is sacrificing handling for ultimate speed as Bob has stated.
That doesn't mean you can't be fast and consistant in such a set though, it depends on what you get used to, and once you get to know a setups characteristics well you can be consistenly fast over longer races even if others think it is unstable
At the end of the day there is two ways to look at setups, something you do to tweak a car to how you drive or to understand why someone can be so fast with particular settings and learn to adapt your driving style to that fast setup
to make good race setups I think you need to do abit of both 
These are good questions
perhaps the setup guru's have found exploits inadverently in the sim physics world... for example it depends how it is coded in the sim, maybe tyre wear is linked just to spring stiffness and not dampers - so an exploit would be to have softer springs and harder dampeners to get longer tyre life or cooler tyres Those answers just make me ask more questions than answers That's an interesting point regarding the springs and dampers, might have to try it out.
That's an interesting point regarding the springs and dampers, might have to try it out.No no no, LFS isn't as cheap as that. Even if it was just an example, there is no direct correlation between spring stiffness and tyre wear. Tyre wear is only determined by how much the tyre rubs against the asphalt, or rather how much stress is exerted on that specific tyre patch (of 48 total per tyre). The stiffness just influences how sudden the car weight acts on the tyre in a corner and thus how smooth it can grip to the surface, in simplified terms.
That's the whole principle of LFS physics. No bullshitting shortcuts, just complete cause and effect chains.
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Setup exploits
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