The online racing simulator
Car damage in LFS explained
(80 posts, started )
Good peace of information about damage!
Thanks for all the information for beginners! It is doing a great job for me
Quote from MadCat360 :I can get away with it without burning the clutch too bad because I didn't start the race by duck-walking in 1st, I started from neutral. If I duck-walked the clutch and accelerator, I'd definitely be too hot to do it on a good launch, and I'd only use it when I get a really bad start.

Sorry for the newb-question, but what is 'duck-walking' the clutch, and how is starting from neutral different?

Thanks!
Quote from axle427 :Sorry for the newb-question, but what is 'duck-walking' the clutch, and how is starting from neutral different?

Thanks!

In the game at least, I have to start in neutral because I use a keyboard. So I just tap "gear up" and go into first when the lights turn green (I've been holding max revs in neutral).

"Duck walking" is just a layman term for clutch slip. I guess most people with clutch-equipped wheels start in first, build revs and then slowly back out of the clutch while adding power. This would give you an ideal start in some cars but it also heats the clutch a lot. It's not the best technique for all cars (probably the Formula BMW would be just a straight "dump" of the clutch since it doesn't have a whole lot of power).
#54 - Zay
oh ya i have to add something.you will know for sure if your suspension has shrunk if your wheels are like pushed in to your body work.lol.
Have to admit tht i first thought tht the 3 letter shorthand was a damage rating and tried to look for some window from the game tht wd show it..

but how ever, back to the point, yesterday while i was on a train i tried the engine damage at powershifting on XFR, noticed tht when the rev-meter goes past zero again engine takes a lot of damage. i just read the whole topic but ddnt find anyone mentioning the point that it theres a lot of different ammounts of engine damage, the outcome of my try-outs i found tht the engine can simply lose a bit power, or it can simply die and not start again, or it can lose almost all of its power. I drove twice from one end to another and i managed to get a top speed of 38km/h (24mph)

anyways the transmission damage got me interested, how the hell do i get that? i have consentrated a lot to test the reality of the game and abused cars a lot but never got that.
so how do i get tht? anyone?
#56 - senn
transmission damage isn't yet implemented (VERSION Z STABLE, OR PATCH TEST Z15), clutch overheating only (ie overheat the clutch, and it slips)
so you can't damage it, yet.
AFAIK, engine damage can only be achieved by downshifting too early (Exceeding redline) or on downhills/being shunted by a faster car (Exceeding redline)
Hope this answers your question
I think its very hard to know if you have slight engine damage in some of the cars, in the XFG for example, one or 2 miss-shifts and you only notice the engine damage by its symptoms on performance (lower top speed/acceleration, higher laptimes) as opposed to actualy being able to hear it in the engine tone.

I think it would be useful to see an engine damage visual display, in with the F10 info, just like we do with the clutch temp.

SD.
thanks senn. too femiliar with the cluch overheating, but atleast i dont wonder anymore why i ddnt get transmission damage
I'm sure it wouldn't be too difficult to implement a check engine light on the dash
Quote from racerboy59 :I'm sure it wouldn't be too difficult to implement a check engine light on the dash

A light to check exactly what?
lol a check engine light

I saw this guy who had half of his car chopped off in LVS today and he was still driving it... sideways

lol that is weird. I'd say that LVS should still work on the realism of car damage
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(michilion) DELETED by Bob Smith : bad start for a first post
Something missing
Greetings,
I do see a great detail to modeling the fender damage. Seeing the fender moved is a plus, but there is a minus. Yes you knew this was comming. Fender damage as such woulf cause tire some during braking or high load turns. Could there be an update to this? am sure a blown tire after three laps with out repair would be in need also.

Thank you
Thanx for the info article... i really needed to know this about suspension damage
Hi,

is the suspension prone to wear? I mean, does it matter if I run a whole endurance race, let's say 4-5 hours constantly at the limit, hitting all the curbs, to get those best lap times and will I get away with a perfectly good suspension at the end, or should I be more vary of the curbs on the long runs?

And brakes, I haven't noticed a significant change or any at all in braking over time, except when on too cold or too hot tires. Does LFS simulate brake temperatures yet?

Thank you!
not wear, but on long races on tracks w/ very high curbes, you will notice damage slowly accumulate to the suspension. On very smooth tracks, with no curbs, you won't get any damage. Tire performance changes also as you go into a race and depending on the car setup and tires/ driving style. as far as i know, there's no brake fade. on
So, keep away from Fern Bay curbs on long races.
Dayum, if those curbs would be any higher you'd need climbing gear to get over them.
But the chance to get a full suspension failure only because of "jumping" over high curbs is slim?
as for suspension. When turned on F10, if you can see orange flashes on curbs, but damage is not shown an once, be shure, it is accumulating from kick to kick, and in several laps you'll see damage bar coming up.
Brekes are constant, no changes to expect from them. Keep your mind on tires, it's really easy to blow tires when blocked wheel on braking.

Have a good racing =)
Nice article brother
sometimes in XFG i get a odd situation.... I shift just little above 7500 rpm, and sometimes when i shift from 3rd to 4th or from 4th to 5th gear my engine blows, it just shifts to 1st and when in top speed engine is lost, no power after that... what is the reason of that behaviour...
Quote from jopapuba :sometimes in XFG i get a odd situation.... I shift just little above 7500 rpm, and sometimes when i shift from 3rd to 4th or from 4th to 5th gear my engine blows, it just shifts to 1st and when in top speed engine is lost, no power after that... what is the reason of that behaviour...

bug
hint: dont use autogears, then it wont happen
so i tested the engine damage on XFG and then it sounded like a microwave or popcorn and when i turn off ignition then the car wont turn on,realism. and people needed to tow me
Quote from jopapuba :sometimes in XFG i get a odd situation.... I shift just little above 7500 rpm, and sometimes when i shift from 3rd to 4th or from 4th to 5th gear my engine blows, it just shifts to 1st and when in top speed engine is lost, no power after that... what is the reason of that behaviour...

Daniel is right, used to encounter the same problem from time to time. Stopped using autogears when I felt like changing them myself and problem went away.
Quote from DANIEL-CRO :bug
hint: dont use autogears, then it wont happen

yea, I use autogears, but sometimes I shift manually while auto gears are on....
thx for advice....
Thanks for the info, made a couple of things clear for me

Car damage in LFS explained
(80 posts, started )
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