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Too much wheel movement - slower times?
Ohaider.

I've just just inspected one of my uploaded hot laps(AS3 XRR) and I'm almost 3 seconds of the WR, and what I've saw has baffled me.
Driving line is almost the same as the WR holder, throttle and brake movement are also almost the same.
But when I inspect the speeds we take into the corners mine drop quite more than his. I.e. in the first corner of AS3 his speed drops to around 175km/h while mine drops off to 160km/h, but how? We brake almost at the same point and stay on the brakes for almost the same time and then we're back on the throttle again. Although one thing that I can't do is trail-brake, because my brake and throttle axis are combined. Are those small offsets in braking duration(and/or power) and throttle movement enough for such large gap in time at the end?
Another thing I noticed, my wheel input is just so "nervous" even on the front straight it's allways "zig-zag", and I know I'm not doing that with the well, I only input small wheel turn for the small bends on the straight. I have the wheel input compensation(or something) set to 1.0, if I set it to 0.0 it almost becomes undrivable. Can this also impact the times?
Is it really time to buy me a new wheel?
Hi!

You've already noticed some of the differences (and that's good), so you can start working on them.

First, can you set your axes to be separate? It is important, but you can still make progress as it is.

Sets can differ a lot, as probably yours and the WR holder's aren't the same, so braking force may differ too . Don't take notice on how long you both brake on that spot, try to brake a bit less than that and you'll be able to enter the corner at desirable speed. But carrying that speed through the corner is another issue and it depends a lot on the set. Sets for AS3 for most cars are very specific, since the preferable thing is to use very little downforce and rely on mechanical grip only. It is very hard to make a good AS3 set that will be competitive with all the guys who know a lot about car physics. Furthermore, even if you take the WR set doesn't mean you'll be able to drive it close to WR times. You need to practice a lot and crash dozens of cars to get the feeling which is the best and fastest way to drive through the whole track.

What wheel do you use? If it shows movements on the straights, even if you don't move your wheel, it looks like the pot in the wheel is dieing... and yes, all those small movements slow the car a bit and make you lose some time. Also, if it is so, it's not precise enough in the corners and that loses you more precious time.
So, yes... probably the time to buy a new wheel
I can't set them to be separate, although after I had some problems with the pedals and took them apart and there was this small little "thingy" between the peddals with two wires atached to it + 1 more pin without a cable attached to it(never was attached), but there was one more cable inside the pedal assembly never attached, so I was thinking if maybe I would attach this one too, I might be able to move each pedal separately? (I'll take a picture of what I mean later)

The wheel isn't moving when I'm not moving it, at least not when it's at center. But as soon as I turn the wheel slightly(i.e. for the first slight right corner after the start/finish on AS3) it moves for quite a longer way and the jumps back to where it should be and then a little more etc. When the wheel is turned it never stays in one spot, it allways moves even if I hold it very still. Sometimes the jump of the wheel is so great it even slides the car a little if the set is very oversteery, barely noticable tho. I haven't noticed this until I've inspected my hot laps.
Quote from xfirestorm :When the wheel is turned it never stays in one spot, it allways moves even if I hold it very still.

It looks as if the pot is dieing
What is your wheel and for how long have you been using it? Can you take a snapshot of your settings/controls menu?
Oh just some no-name crap, even forgot the manufacturer. And I've been abusing it for quite some years now on different games.
Hmm... so it's probably the time to go shopping for another one, as what you've described is looking as the pot has finished its life. It's skipping, loses contact when turning, that's what it appears like and that loses you a lot of time in hotlapping.
Yeah, I know I'm going to have to buy a new one, I've been planing on doing so for a month no, I guess it's time to stop planning and start acting.
Thanks for the help.
Well, you sorta have solved the time gap yourself when you say that he goes 15 km/h faster than you through the corners. That means he is exiting the corners at a higher speed too (most likely), and will carry more speed than you on the straight. Getting a good exit speed is especially important on longer straights.

If you hit escape while watching the SPR of the WR, you can do a test drive with the WR holders setup and see if the differences in speed could be related to the setup. But be prepared for a undrivable setup, as most of these WR setups are.
Yes, he is exiting at higher speeds, but only 0,5-2km/h max. Except the last chicane. I messed that one up badly on that hotlap run
But he does carry alot more speed throughout that corner than me. And after messing up the right-left uphill sweep somehow resulted in a 1 second slower first sector. Which kinda makes sense now, and at the end messing up that chicane that much makes perfect sense that I was slower almost 3 seconds in that run.

But still, I need a new wheel now. I can't drive without noticing how my wheel is flicking.
Thomas go get yourself a nice G27 .
Quote from Bmxtwins :Thomas go get yourself a nice G27 .

I've been looking at a Fanatec actually.
dont go that steep, complaints for racing are that it is too big for racing. I have the g27 and feel I got the best bang for my buck.
There could be some second-hand G25s out there that lost some value after the G27 came out, you could afford them if you don't have much money...but it's not the most reliable option though.

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