Well I finally ran a 2:04. It's easy when you don't go through the gates.

OP, no never raced outside of the states.

I like iRacing.

[runs for cover]

Maybe it's time we see the #16 and 20 of Dyson up front again!

I've been thinking about a g25 for a while now, but $289 for a quiet belt driven wheel and pedals with a load cell brake... it seems you can't go wrong provided they work and don't fall apart.

Guys, on the topic of loud wheels is the G25 a whole lot quieter than the black Momo? Quick corrections with the momo sound like you're stepping on a small dog. Not good for late nights...

I'm having trouble coming to terms with that statement, but I think it's just because we are thinking about this differently. I don't have any formal physics training or knowledge, but I do have 27 years of skiing experience, many of which I spent racing downhill and super-g in FIS and USSA events.

From this I can say that the more time you spend on the ground, with maximum surface area in contact with the snow, the faster you go. I understand that while in the air there is no drag between your ski and the ground, but even if you're really good at getting those arms down and knees up, staying tight in the air, you're going to lose speed without your skiis on the ground.

Anyway, most likely I am wrong and just don't understand why, but it seems to me that a properly waxed/tuned ski, when weighted down by the racer and gravity, actually provides acceleration enough to offset the lack of friction while in the air, thus being faster on the ground. I feel like everyone would be trying to blast off the lips/rolls/jumps IRL if it were faster in the air, rather than sucking them up and staying on the ground.

You can set the ghost to show you the best run, a 2:05 something something. The guy just takes off after that first big lip/landing/left hander and I can't even see him a few turns later... driving me crazy.

Also, I can't seem to absorb any of the jumps like you should be able to. Hitting spacebar to pre-jump doesn't seem to help, and opposite real life the more time you spend in the air the faster you seem to go...

Just saying you have S2 is not going to cut it around here, as we've heard it a million times. Log in to your S2 account without any excuses or get ready to be ousted...

I'm actually a member of that site, as I own an Integra for auto-x. TI.net is a great resource for anything Integra related, and has saved my ass many times when I needed reliable info about something I was doing to the car.

That being said, pantyhose on your tail lights is a little much... however most of the cars on there are very tastefully done.

Played a little last night, quite fun. I can't get much past 2:17 on the first course either, no matter what I do with my skis. Guys are running 2:05?! There's one big right hander that I'm always a little late for, but not 12 seconds worth. The other thing I noticed is that when you select "ice," your times get slower instead of faster. Ice usually means speed in ski racing so long as you can hang on...

Anyway I'm glad this got posted as I haven't played a good ski racing game in at least ten years, and this is leaps and bounds ahead of whatever I played so many years ago.

So is it just DH or does it have SL/GS/SG too?

Quote from StableX :

you have to jump on our vent sometime Moosey before you go iRacing. Would love to go do the skippy together sometime

At least you crashed in front of him and not IN TO him

Last week at Watkins (Radicals) I got this crazy jump on the lights from third and forced Dale Jr. wide going into T1 lap 1. He spun on the curb. Race over. Whatever! No contact, I got in there and took it. Wouldn't have dared if it was an official race, but the rest of the lap I couldn't help but smile knowing what I had just done and to whom I had done it...

Someone who joined but didn't race ended up taking a screen of it happening too..

Quote from Maelstrom :

Have you even checked when that pool was created?

Nope!

I guess I'll be the first to say... put iRacing on the list and I'll vote. It's king in the physics department right now, and to me that dictates the level of realism. Lfs has it beat in many other ways, but not the core aspects imo.

rFactor just sucks as a true sim. It looks great and that's it. The Vette from Niels and the Virtua Lemans tracks almost make up for it, but not quite. Anyone who says the tires act properly at their limit in rFactor has clearly never driven a real car. It just doesn't feel right no matter if you have Real Feel or whatever...

It's interesting how much faster your time can be with your "startle" reflex, as it seems that's what we use racing most of the time.

http://www.cognitivelabs.com/Brainpal_test_yellow.htm


.236 here, but for the first time ever tonight my first two times were exactly the same, and my last three times were exactly the same...

Holy crap! That's a bit much m4ccy

Quote from Velociround :

I mean good work FINDING these pictures lol

BTW

Weird. This picture is from a local art exhibition called "The Death of American Muscle." The two cars were pulled together so slowly that the movement was not discernible to anyone standing there less than a few minutes.

Quote from Linsen :

For me personally the cars feel much more connected than in LFS.

This basically sums it up for me as well. When I go back to LFS now I feel like the cars are floating. Not to any degree that would make me want to stop using LFS, but there's definitely a difference. You are much more connected with the road in iRacing... you can feel the weight of the car reacting to the surface.

On that note, Watkins Glen was just released and it...is...fantastic. Perhaps the best sim track I've ever driven.

I would not say the quality is crap. After a year or so of yanking it back and forth the plastic case creaks a little. That's all. FFB is decent in my experience (never tried g25/frex/etc.) Never had any calibration issues or anything like that. Pedals are plastic but hey, for <$100 you can't do much better.

Edit: My pedals are still working fine after a year or so.

Same thing here... maybe not as bad, I still feel like racing but dont have much time. I got all pumped for Lime rock, had a great first race, then last night a backmarker got the best of me. Followed him nicely for a lap or so, then he slams on the brakes at the apex of the downhill. He's doing 65 I'm doing 130. It was into the back of him for 4x or into the wall for 3x. I picked the wall, and Dale Jr. moved up into my spot.

Too tall...

Quote from Jertje :

I've stopped practicing there, but the fastest guys are doing 48.1, and I fluked some 48.5s in practice. At that pace your brain will explode after 3 laps though :|

46.1

You have to carry so much speed into T1 it's insane. I can only do 46.6 and after 48 laps of that I'm sweating like I was playing tennis or something.

Edit: Also, in the one race I did last night not many people were going side by side up the hill, if any. To be safe I usually crest the hill more towards the middle... my car always skips over to the left a little when I land.

Last edited by titanLS, Tue, 18 Nov 2008 17:02.

Quote from spanks :

I get zero feedback from the wheel...and when I do countersteer I just shoot off the other direction into the wall. I turn in and I spin out, I counter steer and I impale the wall.

I can slide the skippy and the solstice and the radical...and the late model for days. The late model was a drift car in its second life I think...it just hangs the rear out as long as you want. The mazda...it bites your head off.

For me it's the opposite. Sort of...

I'm horribly slow in the skippy, but don't have any problems countersteering it. The whole partial throttle mid corner all the time thing took a little while, but I'm getting quicker, both in lap times and in keeping the rear in check. The Mazda I don't feel like I ever have to countersteer... I just make sure I've got a good exit angle and punch it. I love the thing!

What set are you using? Defualts or baseline?

Quote from 5haz :

Obviously I can adjust the 'depth of field' just like any other good camera, buts its incredibly fiddly on the LCD viewfinder (Its not a proper SLR) to see what it is focussing on, so i end up with perhaps the grass infront of the car in focus.

Focus on the spot you know they are going to be occupying before they get there (somewhere on the racing line). Then lock your focus so it doesn't change.

Have you ever shot trap or skeet with a shotgun? You have to follow through after you pull the trigger. Same applies with a pan shot of a moving subject. Pick them up in your viewfinder before the spot you picked, move your camera at the same speed they are traveling (keeping them centered in the view finder) and continue "panning" after you have pressed the shutter button. This should help keep your subjects sharp and your backgrounds full of motion.

The picture below was taken at 1/20 second @ 2.8, 1600iso
The bike was only moving about 20mph and, obviously, it was dark out so I used a very slow shutter. During the day you might try 1/125 or even 1/200 if the subject is moving very fast.